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The router is designed to reboot in order to prevent a more serious lockup or corruption. It is a last-resort effort to keep your network online. This does not mean that the designers' intended for you to tolerate a frequently rebooting router. But it does mean that there may be multiple possible causes leading to different suggestions to fix it.
If you're not sure whether your router is rebooting, check /faq/12901 in the D-Link forum FAQ.
In determining the cause leading to router reboots, it is necessary to determine which conditions were present at the time or which changes were made prior to the beginning of the reboots.
Frequent causes of reboots for all routers, and suggestions:
•Maintaining several hundred simultaneous connections, beyond the router's capacity.
This is most frequently caused by P2P filesharing software, but it is also sometimes associated with running a public web server behind a residential router. Set the software to maintain fewer simultaneous connections. One specific frequent rebooting issue is with the DI-5xx and DI-6xx numbered routers is eMule with the KAD feature enabled. Suggestions: If the router only restarts during P2P traffic, configure your P2P client to limit the number of connections to a lower number. If you are using eMule with KAD, try turning off the KAD feature.
•Keeping the router in a warm place or an unventilated place.
The router should be in a room-temperature place, free from direct sunlight or the draft from heating vents. Suggestions: Some have found that standing the router on an end provides for improved airflow and reduced reboots.
•Poor or noisy power source.
The D-Link supplied power supply may be insufficient, either by design or defect. Or the power supply may be plugged into an under-powered or noisy circuit. Suggestions: Some have found positive results by replacing the included power supply with another that meets or somewhat exceeds the AMP rating on the label. You can eliminating line noise from florescent lights or electric fan motors by increasing the distance between the device and these appliances, and ensuring that they do not share the same surge protector or power strip.
Frequent causes of reboots for wireless routers and APs, and suggestions:
•Interference from non-wifi uses of the 2.4 GHz (802.11b and 802.11g) band, or the 5.8 GHz (802.11a) band.
Such equipment includes cordless phones, baby monitors, security systems, wireless cameras, radar, microwave oven, wireless speakers, audio/video extenders, and etcetera. Keep in mind that interference may be coming from use of these products in neighboring homes and businesses. Suggestions: Keep distance between wi-fi equipment and other radio equipment using the same frequencies.
•Interference from adjacent wi-fi users that are not properly sharing the channel.
If a neighboring wi-fi network is repeatedly interfering with your network, the high number of resulting errors and retransmissions may cause your router to reboot. If you are using a proprietary version of wi-fi (22 Mbps or 108 Mbps), turn off 4x mode or Super-G mode. Suggestions: If the problem persists, either set your channel selector to Auto or manually choose another channel. Try turning off features that enhance the network performance by using technologies not included in the 802.11a, b, or g specification.
Note -- you can expect these issues if you are in a very populated area and are using G-Only mode or SuperG with Static Turbo. For different reasons, these modes may not be recognized by other wireless networks and their transmissions are more likely to occur simultaneously with your own.
•Self-inflicted interference caused by signal leaks into the non-radio components of the router.
Unfortunately, it is not uncommon to find that a wireless AP or router is creating its own electrical noise, causing itself to reboot. A tell-tale sign of this problem is that the issue goes away when the Transmit Power setting is reduced to 50% or less. Another is sign is when the problem stops after repositioning the AP on its end -- so that the antenna signal transmits over the narrow end of the device, instead of the long end. It should be noted that, no matter what the radio equipment, its antenna should not touch or be immediately adjacent to any other metal object. However, in some of the above cases, poor installation was not a factor. Suggestions: Rotate the chassis of the router or AP, and reposition its antenna, so that the signals radiate over less of the device's surface (in other words, stand it on its side instead of its bottom). Leave 8 inches (20 cm) or more separation between the router or AP and any other metal chassis or platforms. Reduce the transmit power to the antenna to 50%, or purchase an antenna with a cord that allows you to move the antenna further away from the device.
THIS FAQ ANSWER APPLIES TO most residential routers, and include additional information about wireless routers and Access Points (APs). Not every detail will apply to every device. FAQs in other areas are invited to add this question to their FAQs, but please point and update this copy of the Answer so that it is kept up to date.
I'm experiencing same problem with my D-Link DSL-2640U Wireless Router. It's like the Self-inflicted interference problem mentioned above. I reduced transmite power to 20% and problem resolved. But Standing the router on its side did not work for me). I'm gonna see how antenna with mobile cord suggestion would help. Any other suggestion is welcome. I've also a question. Does decreasing transmit power reduce power consumption? In fact would it be caused by poor power source while using high transmit power? My Contact: siavash DOT aslani AT gmail DOT com