This was submitted by jcrew98. Thank you very much!
Thanks also to CaptDan, who caught an oversight and brought it to my attention.
Background:
The 5260 DSL Bridge is shipped without routing code. Version 2.2.x (where x is 0 or 1) can be used to upgrade the bridge to the full 5660 Router (see the section on upgrading for more information). Once 2.2.x is on the router, it is not possible to upgrade or downgrade the firmware. The reason for this is the memory allocation schemes that are used by vxWorks and the application that ENI put on that firmware release. 2.2.x allocates MUCH more memory than 2.1.x or 2.3.0(x) when initializing, which does not allow enough space to be left for a single file to be created for the upgrade download, even if you're downgrading to 2.1.0.
To upgrade from this point, you have to use XMODEM to upgrade. Any version can be flashed with this method.
The 5660 router first reads some boot code to figure out what to do on startup. The boot code contains some routines that test the hardware, and the application image (in flash PROM). The router then loads the application once it's satisfied that the application is not corrupted.
The rest of the booting procedure is taken over by the application after it's been loaded (technically, the usrInit() command starts the application -- it can be run from Shell to reboot). Immediately after the hardware is checked, it looks for an XMODEM request. If it finds one, then it will initiate communications. At this point, the boot routine has NOT reached the point at which usrInit() is called (this eats up the memory) to start the actual software. Because almost 8MB of memory is free, even 2.3.0(2) which is "large", can easily fit.
In order to do the XMODEM upgrade procedure, you need to add an RS-232 port. There is already a raw TTL device, but the RS-232 port makes the signal usable. The real 5660 comes with this chip installed and a mini-DIN to connect to a PC port.
This is NOT for the faint at heart. It requires patience, self control, and at least some experience and ability to work with electronic circuits. A basic understanding should be sufficient.
Do not proceed if you do not think you can perform this task safely. Ask someone else to help you if you get stuck.
(If you want, you could take an introductory electronics course at your local community college, if you've never been around a soldering gun before and you really want to try it yourself. -ed)
Most importantly, do not allow yourself to get frustrated. Something almost certainly will go wrong on the first try, unless you were *very* careful. The most common point of failure is the wire to solder point interface connection. Multimeter probes help with adjusting positions. It may take well over an hour to get the wires adjusted correctly. If you're lucky, you can have it connected in less than 10 minutes.
The parts (RadioShack):
276-2520 - Monolithic Quad-Line Driver (MC1488). IC
276-2521 - Monolithic Quad-Line Receiver (MC1489). IC
The easiest way to connect all this up without soldering is to use a breadboard. I found the small one worked fine for me. Its PN is: 276-175.
A DB-9 or DB-25 serial port connector. Crimp type is easiest. I don't have the PN on hand, but it's easy to spot. Make sure it's female. Male connectors won't fit in the PC's port.
Some CAT5 cable or other solid copper wire works fine. 24-26AWG is best.
Power supply: -12VDC, 12VDC, GND (earth). An AT power supply (NOT ATX) motherboard connector (two white blocks) on an old PC worked flawlessly. Alternatively, use a bench source if you have one, or experiment with other DC sources.
Note that GND is not the same as -12VDC. While the 1488 works when connected to 2 GND (one on VEE, the other on GND), it works, but the 1489 WILL NOT. It cannot share GND with VEE.
Before proceeding, read the disclaimer! You can destroy/damage your PC hardware and/or DSL equipment if you are not careful!
Remember, this only applies to the 5260, not the 5262/3. I've never seen a 5262/3 so I don't know anything about its hardware. (The 5262/3 are based on different hardware, so they don't even have the necessary internal circuitry to support a serial port. You wouldn't need one on a 5262/3 anyways, since these models don't use flash ROM. -ed)
Notes: Pinout for DIP ICs start from 1 to the last, depending on the number of pins. Same applies for SOPs. Pin 1 is on the top left corner (top is designated by a notch or dot) moving in a counter-clockwise direction (left side to right side). Notches are the usual PIN1
identifiers. The last pin will be on the opposite side of pin 1.
Also, note that the X and Y banks are all one pin, even though they look separate. That is, Y1=Y20. The same goes for X. This applies to breadboards.
You should consider making a schematic or diagram as a reference. It should be easy to construct by reading through the directions. Post a question if you want a schematic drawn and it can be emailed or attached. The technical data sheet is very helpful in this capacity.
Unplug your 5660 and all cables before opening it.
Making the cable:
1. Gather all the parts.
2. Do the necessary unwrapping/common sense stuff. Prepare cabling conductors, jumpers, etc.
3. Insert the two ICs in arbitrary locations, as long as they are not on the same bank (across the center division).
4. Place a jumper (wire) between pins 12 and 13 of the 1488.
5. Place a jumper between Pin 7 (left side bottom) of the 1488, 1489, and X or Y, whichever is closer.
6. Prepare the DB-9 connector. A DB-25 converter can be used if you have an old DB-25 connector on your PC.
6a. Select a color code you are comfortable with.
6b. Strip three wires; save the rest for later.
6c. Attach one wire to each: Pins 2, 3, 5. They are written on the DB9 if you get lost. Pin 1 is the top-left. 5 is the top-right.
6d. Attach the lead from Pin 2 to pin 11 of the 1488.
6e. Attach the lead from Pin 3 to pin 13 of the 1489.
6f. Attach the lead from Pin 5 to GND(earth). Connect this to both the jumpers that lead to pin 7 of each IC.
7. Prepare the Vcc, VEE, GND.
7a. Read the color code on the AT PS's label (if you chose to use one).
7b. Attach +5V to VCC of the 1489 - pin 14 (top right)
7c. Attach -12V to VEE of the 1488 - pin 1. (top left)
7d. Attach GND(earth) to the node that reaches both pin 7s and the DB9's GND pin (5).
7e. Attach +12V to VCC of the 1488 - pin 14 (top right)
8. Triple-check all connections. Optionally (and preferably) use a multimeter on the impedance/ohm setting and make sure that VCC/VEE do not read 0 Ohms. Check that Pin 2/3 are not shorted. Shorting them will cause a local loopback (echo). Make sure Pin 2/3 are not shorted to GND, VCC, or VEE. Check to ensure the correct wires are connected to each pin. Make sure no connections, other than the four GNDs, are sharing X or Y.
9. "Smoke test." activate the power source and make sure there are no shorts (things would start blowing up and smoking and/or getting very hot) on the power supply. Power down the PSU. Continue if everything is OK.
10. Put the assembly to the side.
11. Open the 5660. There are two screws, one of which is inline with the visible one (one is under the sticker, near the front edge). There are also two rubber feet that pull out (the round feet stay in). The three clips on one side just slide out with a little effort. Some prying may be necessary.
12. CAREFULLY handle the PCB and set it on the bottom (thin plastic part). Always touch the PCB by the edges.
13. Orient the PCB so the lights face to the left of you.
14. Locate the TTL terminal. It is labeled U10; there is no IC in place, only solder points.
15. Prepare jumpers(3). 6-8 inches should work. Strip a short length of three jumpers.
15a. There are two options here: solder the wires to the board (hard), or connect them by force (like the wires in a telephone jack that use spring force to connect to the RJxx's terminals).
15b. Soldering is not discussed; the heat can easily damage the PCB and the sensitive equipment attached to it. Solder only at your own risk.
15b1. Get some good tape, and attach each wire to the plastic face on the rear end. The tricky part is to set up enough spring tension in the wire to make it contact the solder points. Bend the stripped ends so that they contact solder points 9, 11, 15. (Pin 1 is marked by an '*', count them out as normal. Pin 9 is the first point on bottom row (l-->r)(if the lights are oriented to your left). It may help to insert the ends of the wires under the plastic Enet port housing to hold them in place. I would not recommend taping the wires directly to the PCB, as the high-friction nature of unrolling tape creates a huge static risk. This requires the most patience and is the hardest part.
16. Once you are satisfied that the wires are touching only one pin each, and are in good contact, attach the jumpers to the breadboard.
17. Connect the wire from pin 9 into the Receiver (This is the 5660's Rx). The Receiver is the 1489. This wire connects to pin 11 of the receiver.
18. Connect the wire from pin 11 into the Driver (1488). Connect this wire to pin 12 or 13 (they should be bridged/shorted).
19. Connect the wire from pin 15 into the Earth ground (the pin 7 / DB9 pin 5 node).
20. Verify connections.
21. Plug the DB9 into your PC's RS-232 (serial port).
22. Power on the PC.
23. Start the appropriate dumb terminal software (HyperTerminal for Windows).
23a. Create a new connection; call it whatever you want.
23b. Settings: 38400-8-N-1 (38400 baud, 8 bits, no parity, 1 stop bit, no flow control).
24. Power on the PSU.
25. Power on the 5660.
26. If everything is connected properly, you should see messages such as:
Ethernet test passed
Memory test passed
and so on.
27. Type return 5 times to see the familiar Command-> prompt.
You can use this access to shut off bridge filtering.
Also, if you lost your password, you can reset to defaults by typing "default" while '.' is being displayed after "Loading Application."
If you get garbage data (random characters at startup), check the grounds.
If nothing happens at start up, first check all the connections to the solder points. It is not easy to visually decide whether the wires are properly connected or not.
Also check your work on the breadboard.
To upgrade:
Turn off the 5660.
Start XMODEM on your PC. Tell it to send the proper image file for 2.3.0(x) or whatever your choose. Remember, you'll have to do this again if you choose a 2.2.x image.
Once 2.3.0(x) is in place, you can upgrade via FTP when a new version is released (it does not allocate as much memory as 2.2.x).
Turn the 5660 on. The XMODEM on the PC may die telling you that the error rate was too high. This is normal. The terminal should display "Starting XMODEM §§§ and so on"
Resend the file via XMODEM. Wait for the upload to finish (the transfer rate is slow).
The flash will automatically clear and reprogram. When it is finished, the 5660 will reboot.
Congratulations! You have upgraded the 5660 from 2.2.x, which for most people will have been the third time. With 2.3.0(x) installed, the 2MB free space will allow normal Ethernet upgrading with an FTP server, as long as the new versions behave in a similar manner.
Disconnect all your wiring, undo the tape, put the 5660 back together.
Take a break. You deserve it.
Updated Note: You can skip a lot of the circuit creation by purchasing a premade hooded MAX 233 shell from here (it replaces all the components and just requires 3 wires to be connected to the 5260/5660 Hybrid):
»www.compsys1.com/workbench/On_to···l#a232db
 
This eliminates the 1488, 1489, Caps, and breadboard setup so you just connect three (3) wires to your unit and start the transfer after following the steps above.
This thread shows another option.
»5260 serial port
As does this thread:
»5660 upgrade notes! Opinions please!!
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by jcrews98  edited by Doctor Olds
last modified: 2004-08-24 23:19:15 |
