There is no tweakable setting for Windows TCP "Send Window" (Win95/98/98se/Me), so those looking for better upload performance are stuck, at least until some future version of Windows provides more configuration options.
As of Win2K/XP, there is an adjustment for the Send Window, though it has proven to be ineffective/useless.
If you can get up to 80-90% of your advertised speeds, this is considered quite good, as line overhead eats up the remaining 10-20%.
For example, if your advertised download speed is 1500kbps (1.5Mb), getting around 1250kbps would be very good.
Remember that Windows download window reads in KiloBytes per second, not kilobits. There are 8 bits per byte. So if your think you're slower than you should be, do the math before going nuts.
Note: Keep in mind that upload is non-adjustable, but may go up once your system is optimized.
In data communications, a kilobit is a thousand bits (1,000) bits. It's commonly used for measuring the amount of data that is transferred in a second between two points. Kilobits per second is usually shortened to Kbps (or kbps). For example, 1500kbps is 1,500,000 bits per second.
1 bit (b) (0 or 1) = one binary digit 1 kilobit ( kb) = 1,000 bits 1 Megabit (Mb) = 1,000,000 bits 1 Gigabit (Gb) = 1,000,000,000 bits
To find your theoretical download speed for your line, divide your advertised speed by 8: 1500kbps / 8 = 187.5 KB/s
Or by 10 to include overhead: 1500kbps / 10 = 150 KB/s
One should use caution when making any changes to the system registry (even DRTCP modifies this), which is a database of parameters that control the operating system. Many programs apply patches that make unknown changes to the registry, which is risky, as it may make it difficult or even impossible to remove them if they do not function as expected. Many tweaking patches add many unused, look-alike references to the registry, making it more difficult to manage overall. Some patches have also been known to insert invalid or system-wasteful parameters into the registry. If a patch makes changes, be certain you know what they are, what their intended effect will be, how valid the parameters are and how to remove all of them should it be required.
Several of these "speed patches" add superfluous RWIN settings that do nothing other than cause slowing due to packet loss. Don't believe the hype about huge RWIN settings. RWIN simply doesn't work that way.
Generally, packet loss at any hop that is being reported by a Line Quality Test "LQT" from either the East and/or West Coast(s) indicates a line issue. Sometimes, if the packet loss is upstream of your ISP's backbone, there is nothing that you can do about it. However, if the packet loss is at your hop, then there is a line issue on your end. This is often referred to as "packet loss at your address" and looks like this.
Here are a few things that you can try. If these do not resolve your issue, you may want to post your issue in the Tweaks Forum along with the answers to these 11 questions.
The loss can occur for many different reasons. Some of the most common causes and fixes include:
•Clear your Browser's Cache and Temporary Internet Files. •If you're using any proxy server, disable it here. •Power-cycle your modem/router, directions here. •Your modem, router or cables are too close to a device that emits EMI/RFI and need to be moved. •Check that your NIC (Network Interface Card) drivers are up to date from the manufacturer. •Check that your cables are plugged in tight. If you have some spare ones, try another cable or swap them around. •For DSL connections, one or more filters may have gone bad and need to be replaced. For cable connections, a splitter may have gone bad. •For DSL connections, check to be sure all phones or devices hooked to the phone lines are filtered, including external fax machines, Satellite Dish receiver, TiVo and ReplayTV DVRs, Analog MODEMs (internal or external), PPV cable boxes, cordless phones, wall mount kitchen phones, etc. You should also not exceed 6 filters in the house, and if you do, you will need a whole house splitter and a home run installed (either do-it-yourself or professional installation). [Thanks goes to Doctor Olds for this tip.] •For DSL connections, your inside phone wiring on your DSL line may be bad. Try checking your sync and speed at the NID or INI.
While the above is not an exhaustive list, it provides a good place to start.
Another option for testing your throughput is to download a large file from a fast server, such as one of these from OOL FTP 16meg or 64meg, for download speed tests. Then, upload that file to the webspace provided by your ISP or free server such as Yahoo to test your upload speed.
When it's about 40% done, take note of the KB/s and cancel the download. Multiply the KB/s you got by 8.192 to determine your speed in kbps. Example: 56.2KB/s * 8.192 = 460kbps.
To measure your download and upload speed, you may use a third-party throughput meter. Here are a couple popular free meters:
A big list of international speed tests can be found at TestMySpeed.com, but they are not like the Speakeasy java tests. They might show different results because of the distance and/or type of content being used to test.
If the upstream is saturated by uploading (e.g., sending a large PowerPoint file to the boss, or running a Napster or other public service), the downstream will drop to about the same speed. This is due to a weakness in the basic TCP Internet protocol, not Cable or DSL per se, and not the service provider.
A symmetrical connection (where the downstream and upstream are the same speed) is ideal for business use. If one person on the network on an asymmetrical connection uploads a large file, then everyone will slow down.
A 10Mbps or a 100Mbps NIC will not make a noticeable difference in your speeds, because this is the NIC's speed and not the speed of your Internet connection.
However, if your line is faster than 10Mbps (very rare), then you will need a 100Mbps NIC.
Yes, but it may not be necessary (and may not make a difference). Your "tweakable" TCP settings will not, in most cases, change unless you change them yourself with DRTCP or registry editing. Therefore, if you experience a sudden, large decrease in speed, chances are it is not a TCP issue, and thus there is no need to tweak. Run a line quality test here first to make sure the problem is not due to a distant line problem, such as a bad router at one or more hops. Then post your line quality test in the DSLR Tools forum if you want help diagnosing the problem. If your line is clean and you still have speed problems, then try tweaking.
Some people encounter a heavy speed drop after installing a new NIC, or just after updating the drivers of their NIC. The drop is probably caused by wrong duplex settings of your NIC that some lines will not work with correctly. To change it, read further.
Windows ME/9x: Right click "My computer" > "Properties" > "Device Manager" > Drop down the "Network Card" in the list, go to its properties, and then to advanced. Set it to "10mbit Half."
Windows XP/2k: "Start" > "Control Panel" > "System" > "Hardware" > "Device Manager" > Drop down the "Network Card" in the list, go to its properties, and then to advanced. Set it to "10mbit Half."
If this does not help, try "Auto" and experiment from there.
In most cases, people using Windows 98 Second Edition will get slow speeds and stalls due to a problem in the NDIS Drivers.
"This problem can occur if the NDIS intermediate driver code is preempted by the operating system when it is not safe to do so. As a result, a 'race' or 'deadlock' condition may occur, causing the operating system to hang."
Any device or system that generates an electromagnetic field in the radio frequency spectrum has the potential to disrupt the operation of electronic components, devices and systems in its vicinity. This phenomenon is known as ElectroMagnetic Interference (EMI), also known as Radio Frequency Interference (RFI). It may frequently cause packet loss because of the abnormal operation of your modem and other devices.
The internal circuits of personal computers generate RF fields. Also, cathode ray tube (CRT) displays generate EM energy over a wide band of frequencies, monitors in other words. These emissions can interfere with the performance of sensitive devices (such as your modem) nearby. If you have a sensitive device of any kind and use it at the same time as you operate your personal computer, you will probably hear RF noise in the receiver that originates in the PC system.
If you use a file sharing service such as WinMX, Morpheus, Kazaa, etc, then the rate at which you download will depend on the connection of the other person, more specifically, their upload speed.
If you were to download off of someone with a 256kbps upload, then they can send you files at 32KB/s, at most, if you are the only person downloading -- even if you are using a T1. If multiple people are downloading off of that person, the speed divides so everyone can get an equal share. Thus, it slows down more.
Actually, they're not really slowing down. After you click on the download button, the download begins while you're typing in the file name. If you take a while to do that, a considerable amount of data will be saved before the download speeds start registering. That's why it seems to be zipping along at first. But, after the buffer has caught up, it will then start showing your true download speed. Speed, too, will fluctuate as the servers that you're downloading from get busy, and your speeds will go up a little, then down a little.
Don't forget, it's important to make sure your computer's optimized for speed. Be sure to check out DSLR/BBR Tweak Tools for tools to help you tweak your speeds. Also, be sure to check out the Tweaks forum for more useful information! -- originally submitted by Santa Fe
Yup. Even if you have a newish machine, your drivers may be a year or more old. New technologies lead to better drivers, which can pep things up a bit.
Two ways to do this.
1. Go to your NICs/dial-up adapters manufacturer and get updated drivers there.
2. Right click on My Computer, and then choose Properties/Device Manager. Click on the "+" sign next to Network Adapters. Double click on the adapter you use to connect with, then choose Driver/Update Driver/Next. Choose "Search for a better driver." Then, only enter a check for "Microsoft Windows Updates." Click Next. Follow the directions from there (easy). If new drivers are found, you will be informed. If not, there's nothing lost.
You can use a program called Shinra/Nimbus described in this thread. This program only works on Windows NT, 2000 and XP Home/Pro. If run on another OS, it may simply refuse to work.
Your distance from the Remote DSLAM or CO can affect your speed or ability to even get DSL. Below is a chart that illustrates what affects various distances might have.
Distance In Feet
Comment
less than 5000
You will have little trouble getting all speeds of DSL.
5000-10600
You may have trouble getting the highest advertised speeds.
10600-15000
The danger zone for DSL from national CLECs like Covad. Advertised speeds are pinned back steadily until they reach 192k for 15,000 feet. If your line is longer than around 15000 feet, they may not accept an order.
15000-18000
In this range, Telco ADSL is normally still available, although it may be restricted to 300-500k speeds.
18000-22000
Telco ADSL is not available. Although, in at least a few areas, RADSL may be a product you can get. RADSL is speed-variable. Some smaller DSL specialist CLECs may have solutions for you.
22000-28000
By using less commonly used DSL equipment it is still possible to use lines of this length.
18000-28000
IDSL is an alternative or possibly the only alternative. IDSL is 144k/sec, about four to six times modem speed.