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<title>Automotive forum - dslreports.com community</title>
<link>http://www.dslreports.com/forum/auto</link>
<description>Automotive forum current topics</description>
<language>en</language>
<copyright>Copyright 2007, dslreports.com</copyright>
<pubDate>Wed, 08 Feb 2012 11:48:11 EDT</pubDate>
<lastBuildDate>Wed, 08 Feb 2012 11:48:11 EDT</lastBuildDate>

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<item>
<title>Four issues with my truck</title>
<link>http://www.dslreports.com/forum/remark,26857736</link>
<description><![CDATA[Yes.. Another thread about my truck..  :(

I drive a 99 Jeep Grand Cherokee Laredo with the I6 and Selectrac.

First issue: transmission that so far seems to only slip when the truck is cold, and the slipping is intermittent. On Saturday morning the slipping happened a few times when cold but eventually it stopped. Later on in the day I added the Lucas fluid and drove to Jersey and back. The transmission hummed along perfectly. This morning I start and drive the truck again. It slipped once but otherwise, it's shifting along as it should. From what I googled, it could be low on fluid, which explains why it slipped less today after I added the Lucas fix.

Second issue: this morning I heard a hissing noise when I released the brake pedal. The hissing was loud enough to make me worry even though the brakes worked fine. But the hissing has stopped since.

Third issue: power steering, or lack thereof. I'll turn the steering wheel without issue one moment, the next it feels as though I have no power steering assist at all. Odd thing about it is that the power steering pump doesn't have the whining that's consistent with a power steering pump that's gone south, and when the power steering assist disappears as I'm turning the wheel, I can hear a hissing sound come from inside the engine compartment.

Fourth and hopefully final.. truck failed emissions testing. I'm thinking the catalytic converter is just about clogged. I know the piece of pipe that comes from the engine exhaust to the cat has a hole that previous owner patched up, so that may have something to do with it. The CEL is not on but the gas station attendant who failed my truck for emissions couldn't tell me why. WTF

Wheeew.. I'm taking the truck to my trusty mechanic tomorrow for a diagnosis. I'm thinking the steering issue may have something to do with the brake vacuum leak that I'm having since it's intermittent and when it does happen it sounds like the truck is losing vacuum somewhere. As far as the slipping, I'm hoping that a fluid and filter change will fix that. I mean it drove perfect today after I added the Lucas fix and I let it warm up.

Your thoughts please]]></description>
<guid isPermaLink="true">http://www.dslreports.com/forum/remark,26857736</guid>
<pubDate>2012-02-05 20:15:04</pubDate>
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<item>
<title>NAPA &#x26;amp;quot;Accuracy-Plus&#x26;amp;quot; SBT-3 Battery/System Tester</title>
<link>http://www.dslreports.com/forum/remark,26864115</link>
<description><![CDATA[This is an older product, but I found one yesterday which was kept as a spare by a company that went out of business, so it has never been used before. After I replaced a dead 9V battery inside, everything seems to work perfectly. Because it is old, OTC (who made it for NAPA) claims that they no longer have any info on it, but hopefully someone here has used this tester and can answer my question.

After I test a battery, it tells me that I have a good or a bad battery, then it says "Code", followed by a number. The instruction sheet that came with the unit says nothing about these code numbers, but I assume that they would not be displayed if they didn't mean something. Does anyone have a chart indicating what these code numbers signify, or perhaps someone here knows a technical support location other than the OTC one that I called. The number I tried was 1-800-533-6127 - this got me nowhere.

This tester is interesting to me because it seems to be one of the few electronic battery testers that can test against an Amp-Hour rating- most testers can only handle CA and CCA ratings. 

Thank you for any assistance that you can provide.     ]]></description>
<guid isPermaLink="true">http://www.dslreports.com/forum/remark,26864115</guid>
<pubDate>2012-02-07 12:01:21</pubDate>
</item>

<item>
<title>[Help] New Rims/Tires on 1999 Camaro, looking for advice/info.</title>
<link>http://www.dslreports.com/forum/remark,26864746</link>
<description><![CDATA[Ok I have a 1999 Chevy Camaro v6 T-Top.

As of right now i have stock rims, Spec I have found state that it is 

Size : 16" x 8"
Backspacing : 6.875"   (60mm Offset?)
Bolt pattern : 4.75"

Tires are 215/55-16 (Previous Owner, Stock should be 215/60-16)

Looking at tire rack, I found some Sport Tuning T5 rims I'm eying

Offset: +48mm 
Backspacing: 6.18" 
Bolt Pattern: 5-475
Rec. Tire Size:245/50-16
Weight: 21.0lbs.

Should/Can I put the 2115/60-16's back on or just switch to the rim's recommended 245/50-16?

Now while I would like the Speedometer correct its not a huge deal (It been of ever since iv have had the car) I have a Ultragauge in this car so I can get a calibrated speed, Main concerns are handeling, ride/feel, fit, etc.
--
ASUS M4A79T Deluxe | AMD Phenom II x3 720 BE AM3 w/4 Cores @ 3.41Ghz(OC) | 4Gb DDR3 Memory @ 1600mhz | Sapphire ATI HD4870 1GB 800mhz/1000mhz(OC) | 2x500GB HDD's Raid 0 | Windows 7 Ultimate x64 Build 7600 (RTM) | Windstream DSL 12m (14.9m Sync)/766k]]></description>
<guid isPermaLink="true">http://www.dslreports.com/forum/remark,26864746</guid>
<pubDate>2012-02-07 14:03:27</pubDate>
</item>

<item>
<title>New Car</title>
<link>http://www.dslreports.com/forum/remark,26797941</link>
<description><![CDATA[Looking for suggestions on a new, midsize car.

So far I've narrowed it down to the following:

2011 Infiniti G25 xAWD
2012 Subaru Legacy 
2012 Taurus SEL

Basically I'm looking for a decent car that won't make me look like a tuner, is reliable, and has AWD.  Budget is ~$30k]]></description>
<guid isPermaLink="true">http://www.dslreports.com/forum/remark,26797941</guid>
<pubDate>2012-01-21 21:45:51</pubDate>
</item>

<item>
<title>Mercedes C300</title>
<link>http://www.dslreports.com/forum/remark,26866103</link>
<description><![CDATA[Does anyone own a C300 (year 2008-2010)?  Wife and I were looking to purchase a new (used) car and the local Carmax has 11 of these on the lot.  Price ranging from $22k - $29k, base models to sport models.  I've always been a VW/Audi guy but this Mercedes model has made my head turn a few times. Looking for any input; good, bad or indifferent. 

thanks,]]></description>
<guid isPermaLink="true">http://www.dslreports.com/forum/remark,26866103</guid>
<pubDate>2012-02-07 18:41:58</pubDate>
</item>

<item>
<title>Fuel guage showing inaccurate readings - 2000 Taurus</title>
<link>http://www.dslreports.com/forum/remark,26858751</link>
<description><![CDATA[I have noticed lately the tachometer has a mind of its own.  If you fill the tank completely sometimes it will only show that it has a little over 3/4 a tank, and sometimes its fine.   Not a huge deal for me but when I'm running low on fuel it will drop from 1/4 tank all the way to empty, which triggers the gas light...so I never know how much fuel I really have left!

My solution to this has just been to keep the tank full.  Is this a expensive fix?

EDIT:  It has the Duratec engine ]]></description>
<guid isPermaLink="true">http://www.dslreports.com/forum/remark,26858751</guid>
<pubDate>2012-02-06 08:02:19</pubDate>
</item>

<item>
<title>Dealer can&#x27;t fix anything on the first try!</title>
<link>http://www.dslreports.com/forum/remark,26859003</link>
<description><![CDATA[Just need to rant a little.  I bought a new Toyota Tundra in 2010 and have taken it in to the dealer 8 times to have the front parking sensors  fixed.  They still don't work correctly.

I had to make four trips (wasting about 6 hours)to have the tire pressure sensors repaired.  

I took it in for a routine oil change and tire rotation on Friday.  On Sunday I got ready to go out and there is a large puddle of oil under the truck.  I check the oil and it is dry - not a drop - all the oil is on my garage floor.  I manage to get under the truck, but can't see anything obvious like a drain plug missing so it's back to the dealer again.]]></description>
<guid isPermaLink="true">http://www.dslreports.com/forum/remark,26859003</guid>
<pubDate>2012-02-06 09:43:43</pubDate>
</item>

<item>
<title>04 Corolla A/C went out - Fixed with new relay</title>
<link>http://www.dslreports.com/forum/remark,26857245</link>
<description><![CDATA[So my a/c started going in and out and after a month it went dead.
I thought maybe it leaked and the pressure was so low the low pressure switch kept the compressor from activiating.

I checked all the lines to the compressor and found that a relay for the clutch was not activating.
A quick swap with the horn relay fixed the problem.
I ended up buying a autozone relay for $15 for replacement.

It turns out they had an service bulletin about the relays - EL011-05 n 2005 so it looks like the relay failure was some kind of manufacture defect.
Probably bad mix of solder or bad application somewhere in the relay.
--
...brought to you by Carl's Jr.]]></description>
<guid isPermaLink="true">http://www.dslreports.com/forum/remark,26857245</guid>
<pubDate>2012-02-05 17:23:05</pubDate>
</item>

<item>
<title>2001 Altima GXE making &#x26;amp;quot;clicking&#x26;amp;quot; sound when I brake</title>
<link>http://www.dslreports.com/forum/remark,26837399</link>
<description><![CDATA[I recently had the rear brakes replaced (drums, etc and bled) because they were making a scraping noise every time I would brake. After having them replaced, I didn't hear any sound. About 2 weeks later, I started hearing a clicking sound when I would brake.

I took it back to the technician today and he said he adjusted the brakes but the sound I hear is coming from the struts and bearings. ?He said when I brake, the force of the car is causing pressure on the struts (original struts and the car is over 150K) and bearings producing the clicking sound I hear when I brake.

I asked him why would this happen after I have the rear brakes worked on as I only had a grinding sound before I had the rear brakes worked on. He said that it was due to the force of the car and its impact on the struts and bearings. He said the struts should be replaced every 60K. The car was bought pre-owned at 90K and now at 150K+.

Any thoughts on this? I am taking it back to the master technician tomorrow and it is a major automotive chain. I am already in $500 and now they are telling me the next repair I need is $700 to take care of this issue. Not sure if I want to drop this amount into an 11 year old car.
--
 A citizen of The United States of Amnesia. How quickly we forget. ]]></description>
<guid isPermaLink="true">http://www.dslreports.com/forum/remark,26837399</guid>
<pubDate>2012-01-31 22:12:17</pubDate>
</item>

<item>
<title>[Tech] Driveshafts</title>
<link>http://www.dslreports.com/forum/remark,26857968</link>
<description><![CDATA[1996 Jeep Grand Cherokee...

Front driveshaft is a double cardan, with a center slip joint..

  

The slip splines and double cardan joint are wore out in this shaft. (DC doesn't hold itself up, and there is play in the slip). Is it possible to replace the slip joint, or do I have to replace the entire shaft? For reference, I had a friend who had his double cardan shaft shortened, balanced, and rebuilt (with new DC and U-joints). With labor and such, it was $190. I can buy a replacement shaft from Tom Wood's Custom Driveshafts for $300. (That shaft is considered an upgrade to the factory shaft. www.4xshaft.com)

I have called a couple of driveline shops, and they all tell me that I have to buy a new shaft, which they quote anywhere from $400 up...
--
"F is for Fire that burns down the whole town...
U is for Uranium...... Bombs...
N is for NO SURVIVORS!!!!!"  Sheldon Plankton
]]></description>
<guid isPermaLink="true">http://www.dslreports.com/forum/remark,26857968</guid>
<pubDate>2012-02-05 21:29:57</pubDate>
</item>

<item>
<title>Can&#x27;t tell what this noise is</title>
<link>http://www.dslreports.com/forum/remark,26842158</link>
<description><![CDATA[Just picked up a 1999 Jeep Grand Cherokee Laredo with I6 and NV242 transfer case; aka Selectrac or part-time 4x4.

Truck runs great. Only issue I'm finding is with a noticeable noise that appears to come from the drivetrain up front.

I can't tell whether this noise is due to bad or noisy tires or if maybe a wheel bearing is going out or something. It sounds like a faint rubbing noise, almost like the noise one should hear when a rotor is rubbing against the brake backplate.

With age, mileage and unknown maintenance history of this truck, I'm afraid it could be the front wheel bearings. How can I check for that? Do I jack up the truck in the front and spin the wheels around looking for any wheel play?

Anyone has ever had similar noise on their Grand Cherokee and figure out what it was?

TIA]]></description>
<guid isPermaLink="true">http://www.dslreports.com/forum/remark,26842158</guid>
<pubDate>2012-02-01 21:31:35</pubDate>
</item>

<item>
<title>[Help] Steering wheel cover worn out</title>
<link>http://www.dslreports.com/forum/remark,26842744</link>
<description><![CDATA[The steering wheel leather has worn through on my 2004 Corolla at the 12 o'clock position.

Is it possible to buy the stock leather to recover the streering wheel from Toyota or from the original mfg of the wheel??

I have seen things like "wheelskins" but I would rather have the original.
If the leather will wear through, to me it seems like someone would sell the stock oem replacement covering.
--
...brought to you by Carl's Jr.]]></description>
<guid isPermaLink="true">http://www.dslreports.com/forum/remark,26842744</guid>
<pubDate>2012-02-02 00:15:04</pubDate>
</item>

<item>
<title>Help me choose a model and year used car</title>
<link>http://www.dslreports.com/forum/remark,26853717</link>
<description><![CDATA[I've begun a non urgent search for a used car, and I am trying to decide what model best suits my needs and wants.

Due to my personal circumstances and priorities, cars are not a special interest in my life. Because of that, I am ignorant of what models have what features, and what years particular features were introduced on particular models.

So I could use the suggestions of any knowledgeable people here. Any helpful suggestions are welcome. 

I'm looking a specific model suggestion, and a specific year or range of years. I know I am not likely to get everything I want, so I am looking for best match.

Here's my criteria. 

Due to my budget, I would prefer a model at least 5 years old, and as much as 10 years old. If that isn't possible, I can wait a few years for a newer car to depreciate into my budget.

My MUST HAVE list:

Be a domestic USA brand.

Have side curtain air bags, at least on the driver side.

Very good to excellent safety rating.

My WANT list, in order of preference:

Very good to excellent reliability rating.

Rear disk brakes.

Lately I prefer Ford over GM or Chrysler.

Prefer a mid sized car, for example a Taurus. Second choice would be a larger car, for example a Crown Vic.

V6 or larger engine.

My MUST NOT list:

No foreign cars, and no foreign brand assembled in the USA.

No compact cars, for example Ford Focus.

No SUV or pick up trucks. Might consider a van.

My DON'T CARE list:

Gas mileage, because I only drive about 5,000 miles annually.]]></description>
<guid isPermaLink="true">http://www.dslreports.com/forum/remark,26853717</guid>
<pubDate>2012-02-04 13:53:36</pubDate>
</item>

<item>
<title>Security Light</title>
<link>http://www.dslreports.com/forum/remark,26844430</link>
<description><![CDATA[I have a 2003 Buick Century which has 170,000+ miles on it. It has started a new problem recently in that the red security light comes on when starting the car, or while driving down the road. Is this a sign of impending issues? It seems to be happening about 25% of the time I am in my car now and seems to have started happening suddenly. ]]></description>
<guid isPermaLink="true">http://www.dslreports.com/forum/remark,26844430</guid>
<pubDate>2012-02-02 11:41:38</pubDate>
</item>

<item>
<title>[Help] 1992 Oldsmobile 88 Royale</title>
<link>http://www.dslreports.com/forum/remark,26847578</link>
<description><![CDATA[About a month ago the tail lights and instrument lights stop working in my car. I replaced the alternator, fuses, bulbs and switch and this still has not fixed the problem. Any Ideas?]]></description>
<guid isPermaLink="true">http://www.dslreports.com/forum/remark,26847578</guid>
<pubDate>2012-02-02 22:21:10</pubDate>
</item>

<item>
<title>Ford Escapes Are Pieces Of Crap</title>
<link>http://www.dslreports.com/forum/remark,26769251</link>
<description><![CDATA[The second person tells me this month to stay AWAY from this car.  An acquaintance of mine has a Ford Escape and says he has spent over $3,000 since he bought it 8 months ago. One thing after another breaks down and he says that he cannot buy the parts in any store, it has to be from the dealer, just like Mazda cars or Honda motorcycles.

Is there any online site that will give you a list of the top worse lemon cars?  I know that the Land Rover Freelander is #1 atop the list but I want info on the other 9 models/makes on the list.]]></description>
<guid isPermaLink="true">http://www.dslreports.com/forum/remark,26769251</guid>
<pubDate>2012-01-14 13:52:44</pubDate>
</item>

<item>
<title>My Day in Court</title>
<link>http://www.dslreports.com/forum/remark,26844805</link>
<description><![CDATA[I posted this a few months back. 
http://www.dslreports.com/forum/r26192693-Insurance-Advice-Hit-Rock-in-Road

The original is too old to reply to, but I thought an update would be interesting.

I had a hearing on my insurance increase as a single car accident is deemed 51%+ the driver's fault. I went and sat with the attorney who would hear my case, not a judge. My report to the insurance company was read aloud, and I agreed, even to doing 25 in a 20 zone. 
I offered the police report in which he carefully detailed the line was too far to my side. I also showed pictures of the road and a Google earth shot where cars a few hundred feet down that road are all over the line a bit. 
I attributed it to a combination of events, but didn't show any attitude or anger, either at the oncoming driver or the town. 

I just received the notice that I won this appeal. No insurance hit. 

Yes, I now drive much slower when I'm going down that road, and I'm less likely to swerve right, but I'm more observant of the areas where a right-swerver is in for trouble. ]]></description>
<guid isPermaLink="true">http://www.dslreports.com/forum/remark,26844805</guid>
<pubDate>2012-02-02 12:37:31</pubDate>
</item>

<item>
<title>New tires</title>
<link>http://www.dslreports.com/forum/remark,26810502</link>
<description><![CDATA[I need some tires for my Toyota 4x4 pickup. A friend of a friend works at a small tire shop that has a set of 4 31x10.5x15 that are 6 to 8 years that have been on the rack  and never installed. Inside and not exposed to UV. Good brand and profile. $300 mounted and balanced. Does anyone these tires are a good buy. I cant find good used tires for that much. The truck hardly gets used.]]></description>
<guid isPermaLink="true">http://www.dslreports.com/forum/remark,26810502</guid>
<pubDate>2012-01-25 07:48:05</pubDate>
</item>

<item>
<title>Motor Oil</title>
<link>http://www.dslreports.com/forum/remark,26829053</link>
<description><![CDATA[What is the best motor oil out there?

Its for my spare 2002 Jeep Grand Cherokee Limited V8]]></description>
<guid isPermaLink="true">http://www.dslreports.com/forum/remark,26829053</guid>
<pubDate>2012-01-29 22:29:07</pubDate>
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