<?xml version="1.0" encoding="UTF-8"?>

<rss version="2.0" xmlns:blogChannel="http://backend.userland.com/blogChannelModule">

<channel>
<title>Automotive forum - dslreports.com community</title>
<link>http://www.dslreports.com/forum/auto</link>
<description>Automotive forum current topics</description>
<language>en</language>
<copyright>Copyright 2007, dslreports.com</copyright>
<pubDate>Sun, 22 Nov 2009 20:48:29 EDT</pubDate>
<lastBuildDate>Sun, 22 Nov 2009 20:48:29 EDT</lastBuildDate>

<image>
<title>dslreports.com</title>
<url>http://i.dslr.net/bbrdisc1.gif</url>
<link>http://www.dslreports.com</link>
<width>19</width>
<height>18</height>
<description>bbr disc</description>
</image>

<item>
<title>[Tech] 2006 Kia Sedona electrical gremlins or coincidences...</title>
<link>http://www.dslreports.com/forum/remark,23377450</link>
<description><![CDATA[2006 Sedona 
almost 50,000 miles.  

(This is kind of long, I apoligize.)

~4 months ago, the driver-side front blinker stopped working. I replaced the bulb and all was well.  Fast forward to a couple weeks ago, the blinker is now intermittently working.  If I give the glass or hood above the blinker a tap, the blinker works fine.  A bump in the road will make it stop working sometimes.
 
About a week ago, I started the van up - the Check Engine light & EST light stayed lit on the dash. I had to pick up my daughter so figured I would get it checked out ASAP, I pulled out of the driveway and realized the van had almost no acceleration power. Whether I put the pedal down a little bit or all the way to the floor, the van moved forward but with very little power.  

I backed into the driveway, turned the vehicle off and back on. The ESC light went away and the van drove fine (and has since). The Check Engine light went off after about 5 or 6 trips. (I am guessing it goes out after 'awhile' once the original problem code disappears.)  

I had some time today to look around google and I am seeing some references to Kia powder-coating ground connections causing the exact issue I had with the ESC light and no acceleration power.  I cannot find a direct reference or correlation to the blinker issue. Maybe a coincidence.

Tonight I realized the headlight on the driver side is also dead. (the same side the blinker intermittently works on).

I am hoping to tear into the headlight & blinker issue a little tomorrow and see if I can determine whether moving the blinker cable around makes a difference.  

Perhaps its all a coincidence, but bad grounds can cause crazy stuff.

Not really looking for help at this point, it is under warranty, so if it is some wiring issue I am letting Kia handle it.  

But - Anyone heard of or seen this? Especially about Kia not grounding things correctly, or using powdercoated connections which cause a bad ground? 

Can blinker lights be 'bad' in the sense vibration, bumps or 'tapping' could make them work and not work?  The filament on the blinker is fully intact, as I can see through the lens. 

On a sidenote, we have owned the Sedona for almost a year and have been very happy with it, overall. :)
--
Yes. the cat in my avatar is indeed mine.]]></description>
<guid isPermaLink="true">http://www.dslreports.com/forum/remark,23377450</guid>
<pubDate>2009-11-21 23:40:13</pubDate>
</item>

<item>
<title>2001 S-10 vent issue</title>
<link>http://www.dslreports.com/forum/remark,23378312</link>
<description><![CDATA[I own a 2001 Chevy S-10, 4cyl engine 5 speed. Recently (whether on A/C, floor, bi-level or defrost) all of the air is directed mostly out of the vents. It would seem to me that if it was a vacuum leak, check engine light or improper idle or running would be affected. Any ideas or known issues? Thanks.]]></description>
<guid isPermaLink="true">http://www.dslreports.com/forum/remark,23378312</guid>
<pubDate>2009-11-22 09:00:40</pubDate>
</item>

<item>
<title>[Help] Defrost not working.</title>
<link>http://www.dslreports.com/forum/remark,23353308</link>
<description><![CDATA[1994 Honda Accord. When my wife is driving and has the defrost on full blast, it doesn't work and doesn't defog the window. She had to pull over on the way home last night because she couldn't see out of the windshield. 

I heard that RainX has some stuff to put on the inside of the windshield to help this. My guess is something is wrong with the blower and it's not blowing on the window like it should. 

Any simple ways to check this? Also what else would cause the window to fog up so badly? 
--
Mafia: http://www.dslreports.com/forum/pubgames 
Remember the golden rule of the internet..it's the place where men are men, women are also men, and children are the FBI.]]></description>
<guid isPermaLink="true">http://www.dslreports.com/forum/remark,23353308</guid>
<pubDate>2009-11-17 10:41:35</pubDate>
</item>

<item>
<title>Cold starting a 2002 Ford Winstar SEL 3.8L V6</title>
<link>http://www.dslreports.com/forum/remark,23373993</link>
<description><![CDATA[I have a 2002 Ford Windstar SEL 3.8L V6 that in the morning or night if the temperature is below 54 degrees or so I have to hold the ignition key for at least 5 seconds or more before the engine runs on its own. I have just recently replaced the alternator and battery for a separate issue. If the temperature is above that or warmer it doesn't hesitate at all starting.  Is this possibly a bad fuel filter? About a year and a half ago it had the same issue but it was under a service plan. The dealer said it was the coil that caused this issue and they replaced it because at that time it hesitated warm or cold. Any hints or what I should check would be greatly appreciated. 
--
Alumni "Mental State"]]></description>
<guid isPermaLink="true">http://www.dslreports.com/forum/remark,23373993</guid>
<pubDate>2009-11-21 01:54:46</pubDate>
</item>

<item>
<title>Chevy Venture Minivan head gasket(s?)</title>
<link>http://www.dslreports.com/forum/remark,23373940</link>
<description><![CDATA[Hi,

Earlier this week the head gasket(s?) went in our minivan - because it was kept in operation when the temperature went into the red - numerous times, due to air in the cooling system after it was improperly bled. .

The oil and coolant mixed in the oilpan, which is a big problem. I need this to last another 3 months without spending a ton of cash or replacing the motor...

Jump to the end if you want to skip all the info / history stuffs.

My thoughts:
 I've replaced head gaskets before, but the materials cost alone to do this one will bring the bill over $300 in parts. I can get a  engine for 500 with less km's and slap it in there, and I will when its warm again and I can do it my self.

My problem is I can't do this now and I need this thing to run for another 3-4 months... Right now the oil and coolant mixed in the oilpan, and made a big mess. I've cleaned that up by flushing the engine, and verified compression is OK in the cylinders. So the obvious problem is coolant is going to leak back into the oil pan... I've backed the rad cap off and re-bled the system. Changed the oil and filter. 

**
Here's where I need some advice. I know the two are going to mix when it warms up. Coolant and oil don't mix and make a mess resembling white sour milk chunks and froth among other things. The oil level will rise in the motor and potentially blow a seal - thats fine, I can monitor and adjust the level, but I can't compensate for the coolant rusting the crank bearings and what ever else goes with that. I need something else to use as coolant, that at least if mixed with oil isn't detremental immediately [ over time is fine, only 3-4 months is the goal].

Some recommendations best to worse?
- *automatic transmission fluid
- alcohol only 
- power steering fluid
- diesel fuel was someone's recommendation?
- no coolant at all - air cooled

In any event they do not conduct heat and will obviously not work in the hot weather, but its cold right now, and alcohol or ATF mix into the engine oil its not going to make a mess, and I can just drain that and dump it back into the coolant resivoir, and keep on motoring... for now.

The question I really want to know the answer to is: would using atf be a potential fire hazard? That is really the only one of the above I would consider, as I know it gets very hot inside the transmission as well, and even though it doesn't have the thermal dissapation it would do a minimal job and let me drive?

Thanks for advice and thoughts.

John]]></description>
<guid isPermaLink="true">http://www.dslreports.com/forum/remark,23373940</guid>
<pubDate>2009-11-21 01:29:29</pubDate>
</item>

<item>
<title>Anyone using OBDII monitoring software?</title>
<link>http://www.dslreports.com/forum/remark,23375629</link>
<description><![CDATA[I am installing a Samsung Q1U in my truck and trying to decide which monitoring software to use. I am leaning towards Dash Command from Palmer Performance since it has some nice features and I have seen it in use.

'http://www.palmerperformance.com/products/dashcommand/windows/index.php'

Does anyone have any experience or recommendations they can pass on? 

Bill]]></description>
<guid isPermaLink="true">http://www.dslreports.com/forum/remark,23375629</guid>
<pubDate>2009-11-21 15:48:42</pubDate>
</item>

<item>
<title>slipping clutch?</title>
<link>http://www.dslreports.com/forum/remark,23362686</link>
<description><![CDATA[I'm attempting to get my aunts car home.  Its a stick and I'm having a difficult time getting the car in first gear.  I'm using a lot of muscle to get it in first.  Second is hard sometimes but 3 and 4 seem to be okay.  Years ago I had a civic that had a resovior for clutch fluid but can't find this on her car 2006 pt cruiser.

Any ideas?
--
| map your city | tweet |]]></description>
<guid isPermaLink="true">http://www.dslreports.com/forum/remark,23362686</guid>
<pubDate>2009-11-18 23:10:35</pubDate>
</item>

<item>
<title>Walmart tires vs the others</title>
<link>http://www.dslreports.com/forum/remark,23373688</link>
<description><![CDATA[Recently I bought some Walmart tired called GoodYear Eagle Authority. The sales person says they're basically Eagle GT's, but 50 bucks cheaper that have been re-named for Walmart. Now I know Walmart buys their tires in bulk, and because of that they can sell them cheaper than other places. What confuses me is why would tire companies re-name their tires Specifically for Walmart? I'm assuming the quality is on par with their name brands you find in all the auto stores, right?]]></description>
<guid isPermaLink="true">http://www.dslreports.com/forum/remark,23373688</guid>
<pubDate>2009-11-20 23:54:39</pubDate>
</item>

<item>
<title>[Help] Engine temp always on the cold side</title>
<link>http://www.dslreports.com/forum/remark,23365177</link>
<description><![CDATA[I have a 1999 Mercury Mountaineer. 141,073 miles and running great! 

I've never paid it too much attention but my engine temp is always on the cold side. The only time I've ever seen it get halfway up the scale was mid-summer (outdoor temp 106) and I was idling with the hood closed and AC running for about 20 minutes.

I replaced the thermostat for sh**s and giggles and the temp has never changed. In the picture I just finished driving 61 miles on the interstate and parked. Outside temp Is mid 60's.

No problems, knock on wood, but should I be concerned about anything?]]></description>
<guid isPermaLink="true">http://www.dslreports.com/forum/remark,23365177</guid>
<pubDate>2009-11-19 13:09:25</pubDate>
</item>

<item>
<title>Anyone user Super-Tec oil filters?</title>
<link>http://www.dslreports.com/forum/remark,23369237</link>
<description><![CDATA[I found an old post on here where someone tested a bunch of different oil filters.  

I have been trying to find some info on Super-Tec filters.  O'Reilley's carries them in a case of 12 for $1.67 each for any model.  They don't carry them for every car, but have a large selection of the most popular ones.

They are made by Wix but are not the same as a Wix.

I do frequent oil changes (3k) and am looking for something low priced but still a decent filter.]]></description>
<guid isPermaLink="true">http://www.dslreports.com/forum/remark,23369237</guid>
<pubDate>2009-11-20 08:45:21</pubDate>
</item>

</channel>
</rss>
