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<title>Automotive forum - dslreports.com community</title>
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<description>Automotive forum current topics</description>
<language>en</language>
<copyright>Copyright 2007, dslreports.com</copyright>
<pubDate>Wed, 10 Feb 2010 11:09:27 EDT</pubDate>
<lastBuildDate>Wed, 10 Feb 2010 11:09:27 EDT</lastBuildDate>

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<item>
<title>2000 Chevy Blazer brakes</title>
<link>http://www.dslreports.com/forum/remark,23776257</link>
<description><![CDATA[Yesterday on my way home the brake system warning lamp lit continuously.  I verified that I was not driving with the parking brake on.  I noticed that the brake pedal was depressing to the floor before the vehicle came to a stop.  I also noted that the ABS system still appears to be functioning when I went over a patch of black ice and skidded a few feet.  Sometimes when the brake pedal is depressed it makes a noise something like flatulence.     

What I have checked:  Master cylinder reservoir is well above the "MIN" line and I see no sign of leakage.  There is a largish rubber hose at the front of what I believe is the vacuum booster.  This hose is attached at both ends.      

What I have tried:  with the engine off I depressed the brake pedal 3 times and the pedal became harder to push.  I could still depress it a bit but not too much.  I turned on the engine at that point and the pedal once again offered little resistance.  

Is there something else I can check?  There's about 20" of snow on the ground and 8" more expected today and tomorrow so crawling around underneath would pose a problem.

The good news is that I was soooo gonna buy a Highlander a couple of months ago!  Avoided that! 

edit:  Vehicle has approximately 97K miles on it.
  
--
"Thinking about tomorrow won't change how I feel today" - Matt & Kim, Lessons Learned
]]></description>
<guid isPermaLink="true">http://www.dslreports.com/forum/remark,23776257</guid>
<pubDate>2010-02-09 07:17:31</pubDate>
</item>

<item>
<title>[Help] Replaced calipers - now spraying brake fluid. What gives?</title>
<link>http://www.dslreports.com/forum/remark,23764856</link>
<description><![CDATA[I just replaced both front brake calipers in my 1990 (don't laugh) Yugo GV.  The driver's side went swimmingly - the new caliper is on, bled, and working fine.

The passenger side, however, sprays a steady stream of brake fluid from around the banjo bolt fitting when the brake pedal is pressed.

The only difference I can think of is that, for some reason, I re-used the old washers on the driver's side but used the shiny new ones that came with the caliper for the passenger side.  The old washers are ever-so-slightly wider and thicker than the new ones.

Seems likely that's the cause, but I always like second opinions.  What do you think?]]></description>
<guid isPermaLink="true">http://www.dslreports.com/forum/remark,23764856</guid>
<pubDate>2010-02-06 14:33:21</pubDate>
</item>

<item>
<title> What&#x27;s The Name For The Fuse Of My Car&#x27;s Power Socket?</title>
<link>http://www.dslreports.com/forum/remark,23780453</link>
<description><![CDATA[Okay, I need your help-- again.

My Chevy Venture's (1998) power socket, where I plug my GPS and charge my cellphone, has stopped working.  I used a tester to check if the wires have power and they don't so I assume it has to be a fuse but that's where my problem lies. In the fuse box I see the names of radio,horn,signals,engine,ABS,brakes ect,ect but don't see any fuse that has the power adapter name's on it.  Do you guys have an idea under what name it is on?   

Here's a diagram for the 2001 Chevy Venture fuse box, the fuse for the power socket is easily identified as #17..... in my 1998 fuse box there is no such luck  :(

http://www.my-chevy-venture.com/fuses.html]]></description>
<guid isPermaLink="true">http://www.dslreports.com/forum/remark,23780453</guid>
<pubDate>2010-02-09 20:47:57</pubDate>
</item>

<item>
<title>Blocks: Honda 2.2 vs Volvo Red Blocks</title>
<link>http://www.dslreports.com/forum/remark,23781247</link>
<description><![CDATA[Volvo Redblock Engines will last a very long time if oil/filters are changed...for instance, I have a 1984 that has over 1/4 million miles and cyclinder walls show little taper when I replaced head gasket last year.

Were Honda's 2.2L blocks (say 1995 vintage) known for long lifes with proper oil/filter changes?  Say, 300,000+ miles?

thanks,]]></description>
<guid isPermaLink="true">http://www.dslreports.com/forum/remark,23781247</guid>
<pubDate>2010-02-10 00:02:05</pubDate>
</item>

<item>
<title>Toyota Prius brake issue - what&#x27;s the delay time?</title>
<link>http://www.dslreports.com/forum/remark,23776665</link>
<description><![CDATA[I see the recall is officially issued, http://news.yahoo.com/s/ap/20100209/ap_on_bi_ge/toyota_recall 

I've read a fair amount about the intermittent Prius brake delay, but haven't seen anything that describes the response time between pressing the brake pedal and the braking system actually braking the vehicle. Anyone know? I've heard three seconds, but seen nothing "official". 

I figure that this is *the* place to find that - Great forum! 

EG
--
The greatest dangers to liberty lurk in insidious encroachment by men of zeal, well-meaning but without understanding. -- Justice Louis D. Brandeis]]></description>
<guid isPermaLink="true">http://www.dslreports.com/forum/remark,23776665</guid>
<pubDate>2010-02-09 09:12:01</pubDate>
</item>

<item>
<title>Unibody pull for &#x22;light&#x22; damage?</title>
<link>http://www.dslreports.com/forum/remark,23762966</link>
<description><![CDATA[So I was involved in a hit-n-run today and the driver is no where to be found. The body shop I went to estimated repair costs to be around $4000 if done correctly, which involves putting the car on a rack and straightening it out, or he could fix only the cosmetics for around $1000. Is the cost/benefit worth it? (unibody straightening)]]></description>
<guid isPermaLink="true">http://www.dslreports.com/forum/remark,23762966</guid>
<pubDate>2010-02-05 23:43:53</pubDate>
</item>

<item>
<title>If you&#x27;re thinking about a Subaru, read here...</title>
<link>http://www.dslreports.com/forum/remark,23746787</link>
<description><![CDATA[Just an experience with my car.  It's been an adventure...

I have a 2004 Subaru Legacy non-turbo that has been nothing but problems.  I just ran into some more and decided to go through my records and compile a list.  Fortunately I did purchase an extended warranty which has paid for itself already.  

Just crossed over the 60k mark.  FYI, I do not drive this car hard.  It was a daily commuter until about 35k and then with the number of issues I decided to drive it only as needed.  It still gets driven every day, but my commute to work is 3 miles each way.

20k &#150; Right Head Gasket Replaced
25k &#150; Left Head Gasket Replaced
30k &#150; Transfer Case Replacement
30k &#150; Coolant Leak
30k - Rear Passenger Window Rattle
35k &#150; Belt Tensioner Replaced
35k - Center Console Lid Cracked
50k - Center Console Lid Cracked (Again)
55k &#150; CV Joint Replaced
55k &#150; O2 Sensor and Both Catalytic Converters Replaced
55k &#150; Drivers side arm rest Cracked
60k &#150; Belt Tensioner Replaced (again)
60k &#150; Left Front Speaker Stopped Working

Other
Leaking Sun Roof
Various Internal Trim have broken or fallen off
Sun Visor Elastic Stretched out
Drivers&#146; Side Floor Mat Clip Broken
--
This Space for Rent...]]></description>
<guid isPermaLink="true">http://www.dslreports.com/forum/remark,23746787</guid>
<pubDate>2010-02-03 08:41:56</pubDate>
</item>

<item>
<title>how to trace a short 2</title>
<link>http://www.dslreports.com/forum/remark,23776977</link>
<description><![CDATA[original is too old to reply too http://www.dslreports.com/forum/r23294328-how-to-trace-a-short~start=20

right, so, got rid of the wig wag "traffic blocker" in the trunk, got rid of their falling appart splices and replaced with proper shrink wrap butt splices.. the fuse dosent blow "as fast" but it does still blow, replaced the LCM, still blows. 

got an alldatadiy sub in the hopes of being able to figure this out one circut at a time. problem is? the alldata schematic for the LCM connectors are wrong, yes its the right car, right VIN number, but the schematic is wrong. it shows a few dozen wires for the LCM white plug, there are only 6 wires all to the LH of the LCM white connector.

so, i unhooked the two connectors located under the LH cowl panel and the fuse pops right away, i used a voltmeter on both connectors and all wires test good, no shorts, this i believe tho i may be wrong rules out a short between those connectors and the running lights.

putting it all back together, tosing in a fuse, turning on the lights, and smacking the LH side of the dash results in a blown fuse. this leads me to believe the short is in the dash.

at this point im about ready to say screw it and jury rig it to bypass the LCM, ofcourse theres a problem, there are not seperate bulbs for the running lights, brake lights, and blinkers, single bulbs two filaments a "minor" and "major".

idea's? guess i could go buy a set of trailor lights and bolt um to the trunk and hood for that "retro fab" look  :huh:]]></description>
<guid isPermaLink="true">http://www.dslreports.com/forum/remark,23776977</guid>
<pubDate>2010-02-09 10:21:47</pubDate>
</item>

<item>
<title>Thoughts on a big block Chevy build</title>
<link>http://www.dslreports.com/forum/remark,23775469</link>
<description><![CDATA[Block: 454 4-bolt 14015445 standard bore, no machine work done. ( know it could be cracked and any number of "what-if's" just taking it at face value right now)
The heads are: 14092360 
I believe I also have an intake that will work. 

It is just the block and heads. I am thinking of putting a 496 stroker together. 
I seen this site linked while reading on other boards. 
http://www.ohiocrank.com/chevbb_rotate.html
I was thinking about getting it balanced and forged pistons.

I'm thinking if I can at least put together a strong bottom end, then I can get better heads / intake when I have some extra money.

Asking $550 for the block / heads 
About $1350 for the Rotating Assembly

The novice muscle car guy that I am welcomes all tips and comments.
--
Member of the US Air Force since May 7th, 2002 To March 29th, 2005
"You sneak up behind yourself and remove your pants before you realize what's going on." KOL]]></description>
<guid isPermaLink="true">http://www.dslreports.com/forum/remark,23775469</guid>
<pubDate>2010-02-08 23:05:13</pubDate>
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