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<title>Automotive forum - dslreports.com community</title>
<link>http://www.dslreports.com/forum/auto</link>
<description>Automotive forum current topics</description>
<language>en</language>
<copyright>Copyright 2007, dslreports.com</copyright>
<pubDate>Wed, 19 Jun 2013 16:43:59 EDT</pubDate>
<lastBuildDate>Wed, 19 Jun 2013 16:43:59 EDT</lastBuildDate>

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<item>
<title>need help</title>
<link>http://www.dslreports.com/forum/remark,28390072</link>
<description><![CDATA[i have a 99 silverado stepside iv checked the blower motor its good but im not getin any power when i turn on ac]]></description>
<guid isPermaLink="true">http://www.dslreports.com/forum/remark,28390072</guid>
<pubDate>2013-06-18 00:58:50</pubDate>
</item>

<item>
<title>car problems</title>
<link>http://www.dslreports.com/forum/remark,28343947</link>
<description><![CDATA[my car is a 2000 buick lesabre and i was driving the car and all of a sudden it just shut off and now i can get it to start for like a second and seems to run correctly then it just quits and i have no idea whats wrong with it...any ideas]]></description>
<guid isPermaLink="true">http://www.dslreports.com/forum/remark,28343947</guid>
<pubDate>2013-06-02 21:10:47</pubDate>
</item>

<item>
<title>What&#x27;s your MPG?</title>
<link>http://www.dslreports.com/forum/remark,28367511</link>
<description><![CDATA[I filled up my '98 Civic last week. Just yesterday the needle finally hit E, so I filled it up again.

The pump at the gas station said it served me 9.7 gallons and this car has a 11.3-gallon tank.

The trip odometer just ticked 250 miles when I pulled up to get gas.

So that would be an impressive 25.8 MPG considering most of that tank of gas was spent in stop and go traffic in New York City.

Prior to this I was driving a '99 Grand Cherokee Laredo with the straight six. It pissed me off how quickly the gas needle on that piece of shit would go back to E. And filling it up was a $70 affair.]]></description>
<guid isPermaLink="true">http://www.dslreports.com/forum/remark,28367511</guid>
<pubDate>2013-06-10 16:15:35</pubDate>
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<item>
<title>BAR&#x27;S HEAD GASKET IN A BOTTLE 24 OZ A SCAM IN A BOTTLE</title>
<link>http://www.dslreports.com/forum/remark,28319964</link>
<description><![CDATA[My 2005 Nissan, was always a very good car, but some leaks is noticeable on every oil change, because coolant have to be added at the time when I made an oil change (no much coolant added to the tank)
I took it to the mechanic repair shop, and told him about the leaking coolant
(each 3,000 miles oil change they fill out the reservoir). 
Mechanic putted my car in the rack and told me that he did find a coolant leaking in it
 I did not have the money to fix the car. The mechanic saw the coolant leaking from (the left side of the engine and behind the alternator)
I went to the internet website and I found Bar&#8217;s &#8220;glorious reviews&#8221; on Bar&#8217;s head gasket repair. Then I bought a bottle of the product at Auto Zone
Before to put the product in the coolant, I flashed everything to make sure everything will be clean
The situation after I added the product turned really ugly and Bar&#8217;s head gasket repair clogged everything to the extreme, also steam was coming out from the water tank, followed by high pressure, and the temperature going nuts
I turned the engine off, and let the car rest for 1 hour. Then I tried again and still having they some problem
I went back to my home very furious, because my engine smell terrible due to the high temperature
Next day I went to see my mechanic. The mechanic checked everything and found all the 
Cooling parts damaged and clogged and also my engine in need to be replaced by a new one. Total cost to do the whole job $ 5,978 including a new engine
I wrote letters to the maker of Bar&#8217;s Head Gasket demanding to pay for everything, but no reply
 :(]]></description>
<guid isPermaLink="true">http://www.dslreports.com/forum/remark,28319964</guid>
<pubDate>2013-05-24 16:07:06</pubDate>
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<item>
<title>2000 Pontiac Montana</title>
<link>http://www.dslreports.com/forum/remark,28384513</link>
<description><![CDATA[Okay, heres the deal. New water pump, clean radiator, new intake manifold gaskets, and I have water leaking AFTER the car warms up. It is leaking down the rear passenger side up near the head. Any real mechanics experienced this AND with a solution besides dumping the car?]]></description>
<guid isPermaLink="true">http://www.dslreports.com/forum/remark,28384513</guid>
<pubDate>2013-06-15 23:26:44</pubDate>
</item>

<item>
<title>You get what you pay for...</title>
<link>http://www.dslreports.com/forum/remark,28376136</link>
<description><![CDATA[A coworker has a 2003 Impala.  He is not in any way mechanically inclined.

Apparently, a few years ago, his battery died, the battery case split, and the battery dumped acid into the battery tray.  He took it to a local garage to be repaired. 

The garage replaced the battery.  

Fast-forward to six months ago.  The two-or-three year old battery was dead.  This time, he took it to Autozone, and they replaced the battery.

Fast forward to two weeks ago.  Dead battery again.  This past Saturday, he took it back to Autozone and they again replaced the battery (this time under warranty).

Fast forward to yesterday morning.  Another dead battery.  

He was explaining the symptoms to me... I asked the typical questions...

Any lights left on? No
Any idiot lights? No
When the vehicle is dead, does it take long to build enough charge to jump-start the vehicle?  No - it will instantly start when the jumper cables are hooked up.
Does the clock reset when this happens?  Yes.

I told him it sounds a bad connection, and offered to look at it for him

He jump started the vehicle again last night, and it started fine today, so he brought it to work today.

We went out at lunch time today to look at it.

What I found was inexcusable.  The battery tray was apparently never cleaned at any time after the first incident.  The positive terminal (side post battery) was crusted green, inside and out, with that familiar patina of corroded copper.

I pulled the terminals, and took the bolt and sheath off of the positive terminal, and cleaned it as best as I could  with the blade of the screwdriver that I had available. I did have a spare post bolt in my little tool case, from when I fixed a terminal on my son's car from a few years back, so I put the new bolt in, too.

I just find it incredulous that anyone would replace a battery without at least making sure the terminal lug was in good shape, let alone not cleaning up the damage from the acid spill.

I advised him to pull the battery, thoroughly clean the tray, and take a wire brush to the positive terminal lug to get back to shiny copper.

I hope it starts for him tomorrow morning. :p
--
Shine on you crazy diamond...]]></description>
<guid isPermaLink="true">http://www.dslreports.com/forum/remark,28376136</guid>
<pubDate>2013-06-12 22:19:18</pubDate>
</item>

<item>
<title>Crown Vic Work in Progress!!!</title>
<link>http://www.dslreports.com/forum/remark,28384496</link>
<description><![CDATA[Well, battery light was on, battery tested good, so I replaced the alternator(and serpentine belt while I am at it) and the car starts better and the light is off, while only taking 45 min for everything. 2 weeks comes a front end rebuild(sway bar links, struts, ball joints, bushings and brakes) by our friend's mechanic who works mainly on Crown Victoria's. Finally, in August new paint to come. I attached a video of the engine after the alternator and belt were changed. Feel free to chime in on the video of the engine if anything sounds bad. Thanks to all for your advice since I've been a member.
 
--
No Victim=No Crime]]></description>
<guid isPermaLink="true">http://www.dslreports.com/forum/remark,28384496</guid>
<pubDate>2013-06-15 23:18:58</pubDate>
</item>

<item>
<title>2002 F-150 Trans question</title>
<link>http://www.dslreports.com/forum/remark,28367762</link>
<description><![CDATA[Howdy all.  Wanted to run this one past y'all.

2002 F-150 5.4L V8, 4x4 w/ 93.5k miles on it.

About a month ago, I noticed the transmission acting wonky.  Nothing serious.  But enough to grab my attention.  If I was coasting along say, in 2nd gear and I slowed down enough and then pressed the gas (coming up to a red light that turns green before I can get stopped), and the trans decided it wanted to go into 1st gear, it would shift very roughly.  It's never done this before.

So, I check the trans fluid levels.  Checked the truck cold, at first.  Fluid was all the way to the top of the plastic on the dip stick.  Drive to work, come home, check it with the engine still running.  Next to bone dry.  The tip may have had a little drop on it.

Pick up a couple quarts of fluid and a filler funnel.  Being -very- warry about the risks of over filling, I took my time and put a pint in it to start.

That brought the fluid level, when hot, just over the bubble at the bottom of the stick.  Maaaaaybe to the A in add.

The stick looks like this (starting with the end going deepest into the fill tube):

Add|||||Cold||||Hot|||||Do Not Add

Checked the level again this afternoon after putting about 100 miles on it.

Damn near bone dry again.  So, I use the rest of the quart and now the level is around the "C" in Cold.

Should I keep adding until it gets to the hot section when hot?  Why would it be over flowing when cold?  But all-but-bone-dry when hot and up to operating temps?

Should the trans be consuming fluid?  Currently, it is shifting just fine, very smooth and nothing is leaking on the drive way and its rough shift 2nd->1st is gone.

I'm the second owner.  Got the truck when it was 18 months old and had 24k on it.  I've never had the trans cracked/flushed/pumped/dumped or nothing.]]></description>
<guid isPermaLink="true">http://www.dslreports.com/forum/remark,28367762</guid>
<pubDate>2013-06-10 17:15:38</pubDate>
</item>

<item>
<title>[Help] 2005 Nissan Altima 2.5 SL electrical problems</title>
<link>http://www.dslreports.com/forum/remark,28383268</link>
<description><![CDATA[Hi,
I have a Nissan Altima 2005 2.5 SL, and it has been having electrical issues (problems with the lights). Yesterday, it shutted down in the middle of the US1. I tried to start it again, but it did not work (it was raining hardly). I realized that the fuel pump fuse was totally burned. What could have happened?
Thanks in advance. ]]></description>
<guid isPermaLink="true">http://www.dslreports.com/forum/remark,28383268</guid>
<pubDate>2013-06-15 12:10:07</pubDate>
</item>

<item>
<title>1994 F-150 ducking to the right</title>
<link>http://www.dslreports.com/forum/remark,28379948</link>
<description><![CDATA[So I have a 1994 F-150 that when I apply the brakes, ducks to the right. By that I mean that the steering wheel does not really pull out of your hand but the right side kind of dips down and the truck goes to the right. 

Additionally, when hitting the brakes hard, the right front will lock up every time before the left. 

No anti lock brake on the front and have already replaced both calipers, brake fluid runs clear and free on both side so no blockages and the short rubber lines were replaced about 2 years ago. 

Possibly something with the brake pads? Those have not been replaced yet.

Any thoughts?]]></description>
<guid isPermaLink="true">http://www.dslreports.com/forum/remark,28379948</guid>
<pubDate>2013-06-14 07:14:46</pubDate>
</item>

<item>
<title>Topic for the Detailers here</title>
<link>http://www.dslreports.com/forum/remark,28360977</link>
<description><![CDATA[So I was going to give the wifes new car a polish. After getting dizzy with the amounts of diff wax and Syn-wax, it appears that one of the cheapest thing on the market that does the best job and lasts the longest time is, "Nu Finish Liquid Polish", Nu Finish NFP-80 $8.19 per consumer reports.

Wax, while providing more depth in clarity, lasts only 4-8 weeks. And increases in price a lot depending on brand, type of wax, concentration of wax and so forth.

Nu Finish doesn't provide the colour depth of carnauba wax, but provides the shine and gloss. And being synthetic it lasts almost a year instead of an average 6-weeks. I don't want to wax every 6 weeks.

What I have read with Nu Finish is that it will stain plastic, rubber and I think chrome. So you have to be extra careful with it. Takes mineral spirits to "unstain it", which doesn't always work. Though I have read people stating that Autoglym Bumper & Trim Gel tends to get rid of it.

So having said the above, who uses Nu Finish liquid? Problems you encountered? Or what other syn-wax has a very high rating (Turtle wax Ice was rated very low) and long durability? Any Consumer report to link to?

Just curious what the detailers (if any) here think before I go out and buy it, then kick myself if I end up with white staining on a bumper, grill, plastic panel, or plastic review mirror casing.]]></description>
<guid isPermaLink="true">http://www.dslreports.com/forum/remark,28360977</guid>
<pubDate>2013-06-08 01:13:20</pubDate>
</item>

<item>
<title>VIN history search</title>
<link>http://www.dslreports.com/forum/remark,28377557</link>
<description><![CDATA[Seems to work ok.  Did a few VIN's pulled from ads, got results... and its free (like beer!)

http://www.geniusvin.com/]]></description>
<guid isPermaLink="true">http://www.dslreports.com/forum/remark,28377557</guid>
<pubDate>2013-06-13 12:48:34</pubDate>
</item>

<item>
<title>P0420 - &#x27;98 Honda Civic EX</title>
<link>http://www.dslreports.com/forum/remark,28351694</link>
<description><![CDATA[Greetings,

I put my Civic back on the road this Monday after spending a year and a half parked and unused.

In a previous thread here I talked about the alternator pulley seizing and drive belt melting and snapping as a result of the car sitting unused for that long. Thankfully this only required a replacement alternator and drive belt. The engine also developed a small oil leak; turns out distributor seal and oil pan gasket needed to get replaced. It needed new brakes too. Damn rust.

All in all; $560 in labor and parts out the door. Not bad.

I changed the oil right away and poured 8 ounces of Seafoam in the crankcase so it can get started cleaning up the engine. That stuff is indeed a $9 can of automotive wonders.

I drove the car to work yesterday. On the way back, the CEL turns on. Car drives fine and all, nothing mechanical seems to be wrong. So I have a feeling it's the same thing as before; O2 sensor.

I took it to Autozone to have the code read; P0420.

Last time I "fixed" this by unplugging the battery for a couple seconds and putting it back. I did this again last night and so far the CEL continues to stay off.

But I do want to get this fixed for good, however.

Two years ago I had the exhaust system completely replaced on this car; catalytic converter, resonator and muffler. When the guy replaced the cat, he mentioned the sensor in it looked a little ugly and might give me grief later on. I told him to weld it back on and that I'd worry about it when the time came.

I think the time has indeed come. LOL

What would cause ECU to kick back P0420? I know there's a sensor right on the cat, and there's another one right on the piece of metal in the front of the engine that faces the radiator, I presume that would be the header.

Sorry for the short novel. TIA]]></description>
<guid isPermaLink="true">http://www.dslreports.com/forum/remark,28351694</guid>
<pubDate>2013-06-05 11:12:26</pubDate>
</item>

<item>
<title>05 Focus ST Wheel Hop</title>
<link>http://www.dslreports.com/forum/remark,28373398</link>
<description><![CDATA[I have very sticky z rated tires on the car. I get a heavy foot once in a while---usually trying to turn onto the busy roads here. TC keeps wheelspin in check but with it off I get  wheel hopping. The struts seem ok and handles fine but wondering if new struts are in order?]]></description>
<guid isPermaLink="true">http://www.dslreports.com/forum/remark,28373398</guid>
<pubDate>2013-06-12 09:23:57</pubDate>
</item>

<item>
<title>95 Suburban LS Brake oddness.</title>
<link>http://www.dslreports.com/forum/remark,28375300</link>
<description><![CDATA[Neighbor had be come look at a brake problem. Pedal goes to the floor.

She said she has had the calipers and rotors replaced. Would have told her it was not the problem.

She picked up a booster and master cylinder of pullapart as she was convinced that was the problem.

Sounded like air in the system or bad master cyl to me. I vacuum bled about 3 oz out of the rear and 2 from the left front. I did not want to snap off the bleeder on the RF so left it. Did not have any fluid with me to do more.

Odd was when I cracked the rear bleed screw I could hear it sucking a lot of air. The vaccum bleeder pulled it out and then  a bunch of fluid. Front seemed the same.

Swapped master cylinder and not much difference. When you run it, pedal goes near to the floor then you hear/feel the ABS pulsing. After turning off the car, it was gushing fluid back into the reservoir. 2nd pump the brakes will work.

THe only thing that would make sense to me is a huge bubble in the ABS unit. 

I may try bleeding a lot of fluid through it tomorrow.

I was wondering if there was any special procedure for bleeding the ABS unit itself. It seems like the ABS box is storing up the fluid rather than letting the brakes work. My feeling is air or the ABS box is bad.

Any ideas?

Edit: found forum post that copied the bleed procedure Had the line:
"This procedure may use more than a pint of fluid per wheel"

Then mentions a scan tool automated bleed precedure.
--
Scott Henion
Embedded Systems Consultant,
SHDesigns home - DIY Welder]]></description>
<guid isPermaLink="true">http://www.dslreports.com/forum/remark,28375300</guid>
<pubDate>2013-06-12 17:41:01</pubDate>
</item>

<item>
<title>Having a issue with the  Power steering</title>
<link>http://www.dslreports.com/forum/remark,28373051</link>
<description><![CDATA[Having a issue with the  Power steering

is it normal to lose power steering when shifting   i.e from reverse to drive
 

it does shift at normal speed from R to D but I do like  to turn the wheel while it's doing it's thing.

feels like trying to move a 60 pound sand bag

 Power steering was replaced 6k miles ago or 6mo ago
it has been whining more then it did when I had it installed.

I feel like just driving this to a junk yard and having it crushed in to a cube]]></description>
<guid isPermaLink="true">http://www.dslreports.com/forum/remark,28373051</guid>
<pubDate>2013-06-12 04:39:56</pubDate>
</item>

<item>
<title>Get a Free Vehicle History Report Before You Buy a Car</title>
<link>http://www.dslreports.com/forum/remark,28374174</link>
<description><![CDATA[Article from LifeHacker via Reddit:

http://lifehacker.com/get-a-free-vehicle-history-report-before-you-buy-a-car-512856477]]></description>
<guid isPermaLink="true">http://www.dslreports.com/forum/remark,28374174</guid>
<pubDate>2013-06-12 12:47:20</pubDate>
</item>

<item>
<title>Fogged headlight lenses</title>
<link>http://www.dslreports.com/forum/remark,28364085</link>
<description><![CDATA[Mind was wandering as I waxed the truck this morning

I see tons of vehicles with fogged headlight lenses and did some googling as to cause/prevention/remedies  
Didn't help much because mostly said due to light degrading surface

Down here in southern Az we have no shortage of harsh sun and none of my vehicles have ever developed fogged lenses
I wonder why

I have never gone to car washes and always use laundry detergent (cause that is all I got that is cheap)
Never waxed or put anything ever on the lenses, just wash all the baked on bugs off from time to time

I have a 99 Safari mini van that I bought when 5 years old and it is in the sun constantly and it has clear lenses

Ideas?]]></description>
<guid isPermaLink="true">http://www.dslreports.com/forum/remark,28364085</guid>
<pubDate>2013-06-09 13:04:04</pubDate>
</item>

<item>
<title>What is the value.</title>
<link>http://www.dslreports.com/forum/remark,28372080</link>
<description><![CDATA[Need to get rid of My old Chevy Pickup.

I have an old girl that needs to go to a "better place"

Bought new:
1975 (yes 1975) Chevy C10 1/2 ton Short Box
42,437 actual miles.
350 4bl/ 4 speed (creeper & three more)
3.73 rear end.
The body is SHOT (so much for Zeibart)

Please, without the jokes and sarcasm (shoot it), what is the thing worth ?]]></description>
<guid isPermaLink="true">http://www.dslreports.com/forum/remark,28372080</guid>
<pubDate>2013-06-11 20:21:10</pubDate>
</item>

<item>
<title>2008 Chevy Malibu - P0449</title>
<link>http://www.dslreports.com/forum/remark,28367773</link>
<description><![CDATA[Currently in possession of said Mailbu that is throwing a P0449.  I've done some research and it looks like it is either a loose gas cap or Malibu Vapor Canister Purge Valve.

Best I can tell the purge valve lives under the car, near the back trunk area and it appears to be an easy fix.

Should I be looking elsewhere for a fix or would it be wise to start with replacing the purge valve?  Looks like this is an issue on a lot of GM products.]]></description>
<guid isPermaLink="true">http://www.dslreports.com/forum/remark,28367773</guid>
<pubDate>2013-06-10 17:18:28</pubDate>
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