<?xml version="1.0" encoding="UTF-8"?>

<rss version="2.0" xmlns:blogChannel="http://backend.userland.com/blogChannelModule">

<channel>
<title>Electronics forum - dslreports.com community</title>
<link>http://www.dslreports.com/forum/electronics</link>
<description>Electronics forum current topics</description>
<language>en</language>
<copyright>Copyright 2007, dslreports.com</copyright>
<pubDate>Sun, 22 Nov 2009 20:40:20 EDT</pubDate>
<lastBuildDate>Sun, 22 Nov 2009 20:40:20 EDT</lastBuildDate>

<image>
<title>dslreports.com</title>
<url>http://i.dslr.net/bbrdisc1.gif</url>
<link>http://www.dslreports.com</link>
<width>19</width>
<height>18</height>
<description>bbr disc</description>
</image>

<item>
<title>Reversing a non-reversible AC motor?</title>
<link>http://www.dslreports.com/forum/remark,23375703</link>
<description><![CDATA[Ok so I purchased a motor (which I got for a very good price) but in haste I didn't check to make sure the motor had the correct rotation. This motor goes CW (shaft end) and I need it to go CCW (shaft end) since the fan blades I wish to attach to it are meant for CCW rotation.

Anyways, this motor is not electrically reversible, in other words one end of the start winding is permanently connected, so reversing the connections of the start winding is not possible.

I tried the old trick of swapping the end plates and rotor, but if you look at the picture above it will become obvious why this will not work (rotor and stator are off-center).

Is there any other trick I failed to think of here? I'm aware I could redo the internal connections, but I'd rather not.]]></description>
<guid isPermaLink="true">http://www.dslreports.com/forum/remark,23375703</guid>
<pubDate>2009-11-21 16:13:31</pubDate>
</item>

<item>
<title>not too shabby for my first build.........</title>
<link>http://www.dslreports.com/forum/remark,23356283</link>
<description><![CDATA[well, the board was my first build. it is the 3rd cube i have built :)

i needed to isolate the Arduino from the  LED cube for power draw concerns, so i did a load of searching online and found some decent power sourcing chips to supply the columns---74ACT541 to be exact. the sinking of the layers is done via 7407 hex buffers. i pretty much slapped it together with no schematic or anything---just the idea in my head. i'm absolutely stunned that this thing works flawlessly!!! the wires are solid phone wire that i had a roll of in my garage. the case is 3/8" lexan i borrowed from the scrap pile at work. the LED's are Osram 4mm amber (i still have about 1500 for the next cube LOL). i used two floppy cables, one IDE cable, and a 50-pin cable from our phone system at work to connect everything together. the 2 row headers were some el-cheapo ebay parts i cut to size.  resistors were also bought on ebay for like $3/100. power is supplied to everything by an old motorola 5VDC phone charger wall wart.

all in all, it was quite a learning experience and it looks pretty damn cool on my desk. i will post video when i get around to signing up on youtube and when i remove the obscene message i have scrolling on the cube right now LOL. 

here's some pics of the build. i do still have to get a pic of it all together, probably by tomorrow.

  

  

  ]]></description>
<guid isPermaLink="true">http://www.dslreports.com/forum/remark,23356283</guid>
<pubDate>2009-11-17 20:07:18</pubDate>
</item>

<item>
<title>Which TV Should I get?</title>
<link>http://www.dslreports.com/forum/remark,23378030</link>
<description><![CDATA[So basically my family said I could get one of three tvs:

Panasonic TCP42S1
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16889187115&Tpk=tcp42s1

Toshiba 40XV645U
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16889253199&Tpk=40XV645U

Hitachi L42S503
http://www.hdtvreview.com/pdf/hitachi-l42s503-specs.pdf

Now I'm basically a hardcore gamers and computer geek, So I'd like to be able to have a few systems, vcr dvd player etc, + my computer hooked up to the TV at the same time.  I, like most people, appreciate good contrast ratios and solid picture.  With my gaming background I also have a keen appreciation for high refresh rates that minimize frame delay.  Finally, I like longevity.  Power consumption is a non-issue for me.  Sound not really a problem as long as it is surround sound capable

Forgive me but I know very little/nothing about TV's, so this is basically my thought process so far:

At the moment I'm leaning towards the plasma (panasonic).  As far as I know, plasmas are having a significantly lower issue with burn-ins etc. So their longevity is basically equivocal to LCDs for the most part.  The refresh rate (seems?) lower on it than the other two.  The regza is 120hz and the panasonic is 600hz (I'm assuming this is refresh rate???).  The plasma also has by far the best contrast ratio (2,000,000 dynamic or 40,000 native to 50,000 dynamic for teh toshiba).  Both the toshiba and panasonic (seem?) to have an adequate number of inputs for my needs.

The panasonic has a game mode but it doesn't cut out the video processing like some other TV game modes, So I'm not sure if it will actually (despite its high Hz) outperform the toshiba in this way (assuming its even possible to notice a difference).

The hitachi I haven't looked at to much, I did a few fruitless searches on google and some affiliated sites trying to find its actual contrast ratio and refresh rate to no avail.  Not really considering this unless someone give me a reason otherwise.

So what TV should I get?  Are there other factors at play here that I haven't looked at?]]></description>
<guid isPermaLink="true">http://www.dslreports.com/forum/remark,23378030</guid>
<pubDate>2009-11-22 04:31:29</pubDate>
</item>

<item>
<title>accurate atomic/radio USA clock</title>
<link>http://www.dslreports.com/forum/remark,23273344</link>
<description><![CDATA[I daytrade - so i need to know to the SECOND what time is it.
windows sycroniztion clocks and clock web sight scrips are off,
TV station clocks are off, even my celphone date clock is off.

this is the 21st century people;
where can i consistently get the correct time to the SECOND.
and why do so few major time sources agree with each other.

googling around i found a few USB antenna and PCI cards,
and hundreds of "atomic" clocks that claim to get the right
time, but most reviewers say they do not work consistently.

any cheap solution YOU HAVE FIRST HAND EXPERIENCE WITH
GETTING PERFECT TIMEKEEPING would be greatly appreciated.

any solution suggestion MUST be able to display HH:MM:SS
and please don't be a wise ass and post; my Dad's wrist watch.]]></description>
<guid isPermaLink="true">http://www.dslreports.com/forum/remark,23273344</guid>
<pubDate>2009-11-01 01:13:27</pubDate>
</item>

<item>
<title>Source for colophony? (rosin flux)</title>
<link>http://www.dslreports.com/forum/remark,23325789</link>
<description><![CDATA[I've looked pretty much everywhere and couldn't find it in solid form. You can buy it in big chunks in other parts of the world for very very cheap, yet I could only find it in liquid form in USA... and very expensive too (some $20/4oz liquid). 
Any suggestions?]]></description>
<guid isPermaLink="true">http://www.dslreports.com/forum/remark,23325789</guid>
<pubDate>2009-11-11 13:05:38</pubDate>
</item>

<item>
<title>Wonder how a laser printer works?</title>
<link>http://www.dslreports.com/forum/remark,23344006</link>
<description><![CDATA[Here's the inside of the imaging unit of a HP2200 series laser printer.  The bearings for the rotating mirror died.

You can clearly see how the light is emitted from the center left board, is focused and reflected off of a rotating mirror, travels through some lenses, and then is reflected downwards onto a drum inside the toner cartridge.

The small mirror at the top center right reflects the light onto a sensor at the top center left.  That signals the end of the line and keeps everything in sync.

[att=1]

[att=2]

[att=3]]]></description>
<guid isPermaLink="true">http://www.dslreports.com/forum/remark,23344006</guid>
<pubDate>2009-11-15 11:17:57</pubDate>
</item>

<item>
<title>Help! Identifying this part? 750J@  220KR69 (resistor bank?)</title>
<link>http://www.dslreports.com/forum/remark,23336862</link>
<description><![CDATA[Hi

I have a components I'd like to repair, but I cannot find a replacement part - I believe it is just a resistor bank, but cannot be sure that it is not a rc bank. Any help / suggestion would be welcome. I have similar parts on other boards but they are labelled 220KR57 instead of 220KR69.

Also have some pictures here - basically the part was bent over and the pins ripped out of it :(

http://home.cogeco.ca/~jcarron2/sgi/220kR69.jpg
http://home.cogeco.ca/~jcarron2/sgi/220kR60.jpg

Thanks for any help / info

Jonathan]]></description>
<guid isPermaLink="true">http://www.dslreports.com/forum/remark,23336862</guid>
<pubDate>2009-11-13 13:41:13</pubDate>
</item>

<item>
<title>Portable recording devices - for interviews</title>
<link>http://www.dslreports.com/forum/remark,23364551</link>
<description><![CDATA[A friend has an old recorder, that I Think still uses tape, that he uses for celebrity interviews.

I was thinkig of getting him something reliable that was digital, and came up with this link on amazon..

http://www.amazon.com/Zoom-H2-Portable-Stereo-Recorder/dp/B000VBH2IG/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&s=electronics&qid=1258646146&sr=8-1

Anyone have this thing, or can recommend something in the $100 range that's worthwhile?

Thanks!]]></description>
<guid isPermaLink="true">http://www.dslreports.com/forum/remark,23364551</guid>
<pubDate>2009-11-19 11:23:25</pubDate>
</item>

<item>
<title>12v 3.3amp fan - How can I run it at 7v?</title>
<link>http://www.dslreports.com/forum/remark,23349945</link>
<description><![CDATA[I have a few Nidec Beta fans that run at 12v 3.3a and I would like to either use a pot on them or just use a resistor to get them down to 7v. If I use the resistor I don't mind to keep it at 7v, but if I use a pot I would like to have the ability to either shut them off completely, or turn them down to next to nothing since these fans output about 65db ...

Any pointers? I was looking at resistor calculators but I don't really know what it all means.
--
C&aelig;dite eos. Novit enim Dominus qui sunt eius.]]></description>
<guid isPermaLink="true">http://www.dslreports.com/forum/remark,23349945</guid>
<pubDate>2009-11-16 16:37:22</pubDate>
</item>

<item>
<title>Repairing solar lights after battery replacement failed</title>
<link>http://www.dslreports.com/forum/remark,23175161</link>
<description><![CDATA[I replaced the batteries in 6 solar landscape lights this year, but 3 out of 6 lights failed to work.  The 3 working ones are going strong.  I have disassembled one of the failing lights to see if there was a loss wire, but all wires appear soldered or glued securely in place.  What else do I check at this time?  I don't have a multimeter...do I need to get one to check each wire?]]></description>
<guid isPermaLink="true">http://www.dslreports.com/forum/remark,23175161</guid>
<pubDate>2009-10-13 08:43:05</pubDate>
</item>

</channel>
</rss>
