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<title>Home Repair &#x26; Improvement forum - dslreports.com community</title>
<link>http://www.dslreports.com/forum/homerepair</link>
<description>Home Repair &#x26; Improvement forum current topics</description>
<language>en</language>
<copyright>Copyright 2007, dslreports.com</copyright>
<pubDate>Sun, 22 Nov 2009 20:35:03 EDT</pubDate>
<lastBuildDate>Sun, 22 Nov 2009 20:35:03 EDT</lastBuildDate>

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<item>
<title>Single stage snow blowers.</title>
<link>http://www.dslreports.com/forum/remark,23380422</link>
<description><![CDATA[I remember from the last snowblower thread there was some talk about single stage models and everyone there owned a Toro. Toro isn't in the budget so I've been looking at other single stage models and I'm trying to decide if I should just skip it this winter and try for a toro at the end of season clearance.

Husqvarna 5021e, Simplicity single stage, Snapper SS521E, and the walmart brute 21" of all things are identical(except the brute is almost 1/2 the cost); both spec wise and physically. They all share the same briggs snow series engine too. The only difference I can find is the paint job and stickers. I've even downloaded the manuals and they are word for word the same other then the cover page. I've noticed many of the cheaper blowers all are using chinese engines; I'm not sure  how I feel about that.

Has anyone used one of these models?  Anyone have a single stage and found it wasn't enough?

Edit: one more question. The rubber auger that scrapes the driveway clean. My water shutoff isn't perfectly level with the driveway and the interlocking brick on the front walk aren't perfectly level either. Are these going to destroy the auger?]]></description>
<guid isPermaLink="true">http://www.dslreports.com/forum/remark,23380422</guid>
<pubDate>2009-11-22 19:48:28</pubDate>
</item>

<item>
<title>transfer switch location/space limitation</title>
<link>http://www.dslreports.com/forum/remark,23374708</link>
<description><![CDATA[I'm having a 36K generator with an automatic (whole house/200A/service entrance) transfer switch installed outdoors at my shore home.  

electrician is trying to figure out where to place transfer switch.  the existing service has underground utility to the meter which is mounted to brick siding in a 41 inch space between two windows.  see attached pictures.  (COX cable box is being removed).  there is little room to vertically mount transfer switch which is 30 inches long by 16 1/2 wide.  If transfer is installed above existing meter, the 200A service breaker inside would be 7' from ground level.  electrician thinks that's too high  and would create a cable volume problem routing six service wires through meter housing.  his solution is to install new meter/riser moving it left next to window, relocating the four 220 breakers inside to a separate new panel to be imounted to the right and install transfer directly above that.  new panel is 26 inches high which would put transfer switch service disconnect breaker at just about same height if it was installed above existing meter.  any ideas on how to lay this out and make it look neat?  if we used a new sub panel for 220 breakers would a service disconnect be required in that panel or would the service disconnect in the transfer switch suffice?   looking for ideas, any help appreciated- Landry  ]]></description>
<guid isPermaLink="true">http://www.dslreports.com/forum/remark,23374708</guid>
<pubDate>2009-11-21 10:56:12</pubDate>
</item>

<item>
<title>Sealing air ducts</title>
<link>http://www.dslreports.com/forum/remark,23378895</link>
<description><![CDATA[Two story house built in 1970, gas forced air heat (new furnace in 1997).  I've read that a heating system loses 10-30% due to air leaks.  Obviously I can only get at the ducts in the basement which I'm guessing account for less than 50% of the total length.  

Any opinions (or actual experience) on whether it's worth the effort to seal the ducts by which I mean taping all the seams/joints?  I would do it myself so the only cost would be tape.  I wouldn't expect any measureable financial payback but perhaps slightly more efficient heat distribution and/or less heat loss into the basement.]]></description>
<guid isPermaLink="true">http://www.dslreports.com/forum/remark,23378895</guid>
<pubDate>2009-11-22 12:30:37</pubDate>
</item>

<item>
<title>LG Dishwasher reviews?</title>
<link>http://www.dslreports.com/forum/remark,23375230</link>
<description><![CDATA[We are in the market for a new dishwasher and we (read: the wife ;-)) have shortlisted to either a GE Profile or LG Dishwasher. Does anyone have any recommendations on those 2 brands?

From what I saw online, I am contemplating between the following 2 LGS models:
LDF7932ST
LDF9932ST

If anyone has any input on who to buy (or which NOT to buy), that will be most helpful.

We are looking for a 24 inch, regular (not portable), Dishwasher in Stainless Steel finish.

Thanks,
icici]]></description>
<guid isPermaLink="true">http://www.dslreports.com/forum/remark,23375230</guid>
<pubDate>2009-11-21 13:45:56</pubDate>
</item>

<item>
<title>Removing Wood Paneling on Walls.. Alot of It</title>
<link>http://www.dslreports.com/forum/remark,23369239</link>
<description><![CDATA[Well, I have FINALLY joined the ranks of homeowners.  I closed on my house on Monday, and now begins the work of getting the house in decent shape to move into.  It's a modest colonial with around 1500 sq ft.

The house belonged to an 84-year-old woman.  She is actually still there because I am letting her stay there until the end of December so she can find housing for the elderly.  She doesn't use the 2nd floor because she can't climb stairs.  There are 3 bedrooms, a bathroom, and a smaller foyer up there. The bathrooms are in rough shape.  Since she doesn't go up there, she is cool with me working upstairs until she moves. My plan is to get most of the major work done before Christmas.

I'm looking for some suggestions on removing wood paneling.  As you can see in the pics I have attached, it's EVERYWHERE!!!!  Every room, including the kitchen, has wood paneling.  I did a search here, and it was suggested a claw hammer be used to carefully remove the panels one buy one.

Any other tips or suggestions on dealing with this stuff?  Do you think the walls will need to be sheet-rocked.  The house was built in 1932., so I'm told that the walls are probably plaster.  I'm hoping to avoid having to put up new sheetrock, but I guess I will have no choice. The woman says the walls were fine, but here late husband put all the paneling up many years ago because that was the trend back then.

Anyhow, here are some pics of the work upstairs so far, and the wood panels that I have not touched yet.  I am paying a friend, who is a contractor, to do the work in the bathroom. But I would like to do the bedrooms to save some money for the kitchen.
--
"Doublethink means the power of holding two contradictory beliefs in one's mind simultaneously, and accepting both of them." -- George Orwell, Nineteen Eighty-Four.
]]></description>
<guid isPermaLink="true">http://www.dslreports.com/forum/remark,23369239</guid>
<pubDate>2009-11-20 08:45:42</pubDate>
</item>

<item>
<title>Wire/Pipe Sizing help needed</title>
<link>http://www.dslreports.com/forum/remark,23379226</link>
<description><![CDATA[Before I get started, I am working with an electrician but I need to do this first to get my cost down. I'm moving my meter to the other side of the house in the process of updating the electric. What size wire will I need for 200 amp service from the meter to the box, which is going to be say 30' apart. And what size pipe will I need? Grounding - do I need to drive a ground rod or just to my water line, I know I need to install a jumper over the meter. What size wire do I need for that? Thanks. ]]></description>
<guid isPermaLink="true">http://www.dslreports.com/forum/remark,23379226</guid>
<pubDate>2009-11-22 14:32:24</pubDate>
</item>

<item>
<title>Tankless water heaters?</title>
<link>http://www.dslreports.com/forum/remark,23340071</link>
<description><![CDATA[Howdy guys,

Done a bunch of reading on the internet and wondering if anyone here is experienced with tankless hot water heaters and cares to share their opinion.

I've read a few common problems: Minimum flow issues and being too far away from the source of use.

We would be buying a natural gas model.  If I did purchase one I will get my father down here this winter to install it - something he is completely capable of doing.

I guess my question is - do the better models (Natural Gas) really provide 'unlimited hot water'?  If I place the tankless water heater where the old tank water heater is besides having to wait for the water to arrive at the tap are there any other problems?

Thanks guys!]]></description>
<guid isPermaLink="true">http://www.dslreports.com/forum/remark,23340071</guid>
<pubDate>2009-11-14 08:21:36</pubDate>
</item>

<item>
<title>heat pump stuck in emergency heat</title>
<link>http://www.dslreports.com/forum/remark,23376318</link>
<description><![CDATA[This is a reinstall of a used unit that appeared to be working correctly until the emergency heat was activated as a test. Now, the emergency heat will not shut down. As soon as power is supplied to the unit the fan starts and the heating coils begin to warm. The compressor will not come on in heat setting on the thermostat, but when switch to cool the compressor will start and the discharge will be cold but the heat coils are still hot. "???>" help please, it is getting cold out.

Duet. 8.3]]></description>
<guid isPermaLink="true">http://www.dslreports.com/forum/remark,23376318</guid>
<pubDate>2009-11-21 18:56:42</pubDate>
</item>

<item>
<title>Cutting and seaming carpet</title>
<link>http://www.dslreports.com/forum/remark,23375993</link>
<description><![CDATA[I'm finishing the nursery for my new baby girl, due around 2/15. I want to take the mural above (which is 8x13) and continue the river out into the floor, so that it flows to the door to the room. This will require me to seam in a blue carpet into a green carpet in a flowing, curving sort of way. It would be about 13', give or take.

I've seamed strait cuts before (and had ok results), but I've never tried, or watched a freeform curve seaming. 

I've always overlapped carpet, cut with a straitedge, and then used hot melt carpet tape and a seaming iron.

Does anyone have an tips? Is this achievable?]]></description>
<guid isPermaLink="true">http://www.dslreports.com/forum/remark,23375993</guid>
<pubDate>2009-11-21 17:30:06</pubDate>
</item>

<item>
<title>help me generate code violations list to send to city</title>
<link>http://www.dslreports.com/forum/remark,23365909</link>
<description><![CDATA[are these code violations 

No Smoke detectors in bed rooms that the person is renting out. 

3 family are living there 

green pool

3 stoves 

1 stove with non functional ignition? ( electrical )

exposed electrical wiring

swear water pipes leaking

wasting water  (leaking Sprinkler for 3 months

Power meter broken not spinning (possibly tampered with??)

heater designed for propane (USING natural gas )  :o]]></description>
<guid isPermaLink="true">http://www.dslreports.com/forum/remark,23365909</guid>
<pubDate>2009-11-19 15:25:31</pubDate>
</item>

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