skeechanAi Otsukaholic Premium Member join:2012-01-26 AA169|170 |
skeechan
Premium Member
2012-Jun-6 2:17 pm
For me, homeplug has been pretty slowIf the two HP devices (mine are Netgear XAV5001s) are close together it works okay, about 40Mb but with one on one side of the house and one on the other I'm lucky to sync at 20Mb (which means 10Mb up 10Mb down). While good enough to copy files and such, it struggles to stream higher bitrate HD video to my HTPCs.
Wireless with wireless extenders does much better than 10Mb in my sitch. | |
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Re: For me, homeplug has been pretty slowAre you using the newest AV version? Also, how well does this work for multi unit buildings? Is there a security setup so that others can't access? | |
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| | skeechanAi Otsukaholic Premium Member join:2012-01-26 AA169|170 |
skeechan
Premium Member
2012-Jun-6 3:02 pm
Re: For me, homeplug has been pretty slowThe XAV5001 is Netgear's "500Mbps" solution, IEEE 802.3. It was the latest and greatest when I bought them a few months ago. | |
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en103
Member
2012-Jun-6 7:47 pm
Re: For me, homeplug has been pretty slowI have the 'older school' Netgear HDX111 / HDX101 200Mbps (with 100Mbps ports).
I bought these things a few years ago, and they are more reliable than WiFi routers (go up in smoke every 2 or so).
Typically - ~70Mbps throughput (port is only 100Mbps!), and I have old 'aluminum' wiring (ugh) vs copper here. | |
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Re: For me, homeplug has been pretty slowSame here. I run 4 nodes of HomePlug AV around my house. Speeds have been around 50 to 80 mbps, very stable.
The newer '500mbps' HomePlug adapters are very suspectiable to interferences and speed drop off quickly when distance increases. So, don't waste your money on these.
Also, you need plug these adapters directly to wall socket, not on to any power strips where surge protection on those strips can wreak havoc on the transmissions. | |
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en103
Member
2012-Jun-13 11:19 pm
Re: For me, homeplug has been pretty slowYup - this reminds me a bit of how cellular/WiFi works. Under 'ideal' situations, its great, and the newer tech is OK. They're running some high QAM schemes. » en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Qu ··· dulationHigher QAM requires cleaner signal. quote: Communication systems designed to achieve very high levels of spectral efficiency usually employ very dense QAM constellations. For example current Homeplug AV2 500-Mbit powerline ethernet devices use 1024-QAM and 4096-QAM modulation, as well as future devices using ITU-T G.hn standard for networking over existing home wiring (coaxial cable, phone lines and power lines); 4096-QAM provides 12 bits/symbol. Another example is VDSL2 technology for copper twisted pairs, whose constellation size goes up to 32768 points.
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| FFH5 Premium Member join:2002-03-03 Tavistock NJ |
to skeechan
said by skeechan:If the two HP devices (mine are Netgear XAV5001s) are close together it works okay, about 40Mb but with one on one side of the house and one on the other I'm lucky to sync at 20Mb (which means 10Mb up 10Mb down). While good enough to copy files and such, it struggles to stream higher bitrate HD video to my HTPCs.
Wireless with wireless extenders does much better than 10Mb in my sitch. Reviews I have read say that real throughput on these "over house wiring" setups have been pretty poor and far below advertised specs. Sure they are easy to setup, but a good wireless setup with extender APs do much better. | |
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to skeechan
I'm using the Netgear Powerline AV XAVB2001 in my double wide mobile I'm here to tell you that according to the software all 4 of those Netgear Powerline AV adapters are connecting to each other at 200Mbps.
I have Comcast high speed cable 25Mbps/4Mbps + speed boost and I am getting out of my Powerline AV network 35Mbps.
Powerline AV is way better, faster and more reliable that wireless Wi-Fi network will ever be.
I'll never stop using Powerline AV as long as I live. | |
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tobyTroy Mcclure join:2001-11-13 Seattle, WA |
toby
Member
2012-Jun-6 2:21 pm
Powerline upto 500 Mbps theoretical"ZyXEL PLA4205KIT Powerline Kit Gigabit Ethernet Adapter Up to 500Mbps"
Using these on the same circuit in the house, achieved around 200 Mbps throughput. Way better than any wireless connection. | |
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| GuspazGuspaz MVM join:2001-11-05 Montreal, QC |
Re: Powerline upto 500 Mbps theoreticalI'm not so sure. 802.11ac wireless can go much faster than that, and the first products are now on the market. | |
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Re: Powerline upto 500 Mbps theoreticalWireless, however, would be in the same bucket as these adapters as far as throughput. Most of the time wireless only provides about half of the connected/advertised rate. | |
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to toby
I get 270-300Mbps with my Netgear WNDR3300's bridging on 802.11n throughout the whole house. | |
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Re: Powerline upto 500 Mbps theoreticalWireless, regardless what you have are prone to packet loss due to interferences. In some applications, like watch live TVs from WMC where UDP is used, such packet loss is not acceptable because there is no re-transmission. Hence, wi-fi is almost never an acceptable solution for ppl who using WMC as their TV box/DVR box. | |
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Re: Powerline upto 500 Mbps theoreticalI don't use WMC. Just straight DLNA from NAS's or shared volumes. So I have no problems. Just happen to run some tests last night and have no packet losses. | |
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| IsaacGoldingGet over it. Premium Member join:2003-08-29 Jersey Shore, PA
1 recommendation |
to toby
These devices are great, except they tend to have an issue with home circuit breakers and motorized devices in a circuit.
If I plug one of these into my network at the network origin near my router and plug a receiver into the same circuit it works great inside my house. A diff circuit in the house and the connection wont be made.
I ran another test from my back porch outlet to my garage (on same circuit) and the units worked great over the long distance run. But if I plugged the receiver in to the garage circuit past the garage door opener then the unit failed to receive the signal. So EoP has some great usage. But careful planning to include looking for such issues as cross circuit or motorized devices should be taken into consideration. | |
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en103
Member
2012-Jun-6 7:53 pm
Re: Powerline upto 500 Mbps theoreticalThey run great except for....
1. Hair dryers 2. Vacuum cleaners 3. Leaf Blowers 4. Any other device that runs on a high inductive load | |
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Re: Powerline upto 500 Mbps theoreticalHair driers are a high inductive load? They have a small fan motor but most of the load comes from the resistive heating elements. | |
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| | syslock Premium Member join:2007-02-03 La La Land |
to IsaacGolding
said by IsaacGolding:These devices are great, except they tend to have an issue with home circuit breakers and motorized devices in a circuit.
If I plug one of these into my network at the network origin near my router and plug a receiver into the same circuit it works great inside my house. A diff circuit in the house and the connection wont be made. I was going to ask this same question as well. Tried using another vendors device that worked across the AC lines. Same issue. The device can't see the other end because they were on diff circuit breakers. Have never given any of these another try because of that. If I can't go wireless, then I'm running cable, fiber somehow to link the equipment up. | |
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chlenEthically Challenged Premium Member join:2001-01-16 Saratoga, NY |
chlen
Premium Member
2012-Jun-6 2:24 pm
Power-line interference issues.These devices work very well.
I have tried few brands and found the netgear stuff to be the most reliable for me.
I have an issue that most may not care about.
I play guitar and use a tube amplifier (Mesa Mark IV). When the network is plugged in (any brand) it causes a pitch to come out of the amp. Thus I reverted to wireless.
However when used in normal homes it works a lot better then wireless.
I will want you that if your home is older or very large you will see latency go up. Fortunately my home is about 20 years old and wired very well. | |
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| timcuthBraves Fan Premium Member join:2000-09-18 Pelham, AL Technicolor ET2251
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timcuth
Premium Member
2012-Jun-6 3:24 pm
Re: Power-line interference issues.said by chlen:These devices work very well.
I have tried few brands and found the netgear stuff to be the most reliable for me.
I have an issue that most may not care about.
I play guitar and use a tube amplifier (Mesa Mark IV). When the network is plugged in (any brand) it causes a pitch to come out of the amp. Thus I reverted to wireless.
However when used in normal homes it works a lot better then wireless.
I will want you that if your home is older or very large you will see latency go up. Fortunately my home is about 20 years old and wired very well. OT but I also have a Mesa Boogie amp. Mine is a Mk II. Back on topic, I use and love the Powerline adapters. My biggest problem with them is that they seem to fail after a year or two of use. I have used both Adaptec and Actiontec brands, and both fail about equally. Other than the physical failure of the units, they perform steadily and are a hell of a lot better than running ethernet cables all over the house. Tim | |
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en103
Member
2012-Jun-6 7:59 pm
Re: Power-line interference issues.Out of the 6 that I have, and 2 that I sold, only 1 has failed.
2 x Netgear XE-104 - 85x4 port - sold to neighbors +3 years ago still in use 3 x Netgear HDX-101 - 2 purchased as original, 1 as a refurb. The refurb lasted 1 year. The other 2 are still in use. Purchased 3 years ago. 2 x Netgear HDX-111 - purchased 2 years ago (when refurb died). | |
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| | | timcuthBraves Fan Premium Member join:2000-09-18 Pelham, AL Technicolor ET2251
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timcuth
Premium Member
2012-Jun-6 8:49 pm
Re: Power-line interference issues.said by en103:Out of the 6 that I have, and 2 that I sold, only 1 has failed.
2 x Netgear XE-104 - 85x4 port - sold to neighbors +3 years ago still in use 3 x Netgear HDX-101 - 2 purchased as original, 1 as a refurb. The refurb lasted 1 year. The other 2 are still in use. Purchased 3 years ago. 2 x Netgear HDX-111 - purchased 2 years ago (when refurb died). I'm glad to hear it. My troubles are most likely the result of living in a frequent lightning area. You are not supposed to plug them into surge protectors, so they have to take the surges. Tim | |
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to timcuth
OT: You've had good luck with Netgear? Insomuch as I can control it I will never buy or have a Netgear device be purchased. Same with HP inkjet. Both have lousy tech support and rotten drivers. | |
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foo join:2007-06-28 Chicago, IL |
foo
Member
2012-Jun-6 2:25 pm
what aboutCan you not run a line from your router to the 1st homeplug, or does it have to be straight from your modem to the 1st homeplug, which pushes it through to your electrical wiring..? | |
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Re: what aboutsaid by foo:Can you not run a line from your router to the 1st homeplug, or does it have to be straight from your modem to the 1st homeplug, which pushes it through to your electrical wiring..? Both options, as you are merely using the house wiring as substitute. Cablemodem->Powerline->housewire->Powerline->router. or Cablemodem->Router->Powerline->housewire->Repeater..(or PC, etc). I've repeated Airport Expresses (Apple) in older homes that are stone walled. Having same house wiring helped. Speed was in the 10-20Mbs which was much better than no signal and no wiring. (I used Linksys/Cisco Powerline products...iffy to setup sometimes but ... works when no way to drill/pull/run Cat5e) | |
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| foo join:2007-06-28 Chicago, IL |
foo
Member
2012-Jun-6 3:05 pm
Ya that's what I thought. Just checking..thx | |
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Ubee E31U2V1 (Software) pfSense Netgear WNR3500L
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Pros and consEach setup(wifi, wired cat6, MoCA, HomePlug, HomePNA) has its benefits and drawbacks, but the major drawback I see of all of them is that they are very limited support, and they are all much more expensive than just simply running a long cat6 cable in the basement, or under the baseboard. As I have experience with homeplug and MoCA tech, I can tell you, one of the major drawbacks there is the quality of the copper.
Unless your house is already wired with RG6, anything smaller than that will rapidly slow down your MoCA network(tried on RG59, and it was horribly slow, speeds improved once I got it on RG6, but only marginally so).
With homeplug, if your house is large, or complexly wired, dont expect it to work to well, and expect the latency to go way up, and the speeds to plummet. If they are not on the same circuit, they will sometimes not work(since in some newer homes, some circuits are insulated from the others except at the main), and if you dont have a full 3 wire system(hot, cold, ground, since some older houses(older as defined by houses that are about 30 years old now) just have 2 wire systems), you will not get good results.
I have used and set up both, as well as troubleshooting both, and I can say, without a doubt, by far, the easiest thing you can do is go pick up a spool of cat6 cable, and run it in the house as such. Its much less of a headache, and much cheaper than any other solution. If wireless is out, then pick up a 500foot cat5e or cat6 cable making kit for $75, and make what you need. I cant see any situation where it wouldnt just be more effective to get a cabling kit. Heck, I know that houses that are built today already have cat5e, and RG6 put in the walls when they are framed. | |
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| djrobx Premium Member join:2000-05-31 Reno, NV |
djrobx
Premium Member
2012-Jun-6 4:37 pm
Re: Pros and consRunning a spool of CAT5 is very difficult in some homes. It would cost me thousands to repair all the drywall I'd need to cut up to get from my second story office to the downstairs media niche.
If you want "cheap" MoCA, look into DirecTV's DECA adapters sold on ebay. For less than $40 you can usually get a couple adapters that will light up a dark run of RG6. It's the same tech as MoCA, just with altered frequencies to be compatible with DirecTV. If you have DirecTV that's internet connected already, you very likely already have one of the bridges.
As for MoCA speeds - the key is using the right splitters, and adjusting the LENGTHS of the runs of cable. Just adding or removing 3 feet can make a huge difference in PHY rate. It does take a little experimentation but I've had DECA adapters running a very large amount of stuff and it's rock solid, and always 100mbps of effective throughput.
As for wifi, I'm very disappointed in how poorly it's improved over the years. Wireless N's effective throughput is still hopelessly slow and unreliable compared to even 100mbps ethernet. | |
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| | Ubee E31U2V1 (Software) pfSense Netgear WNR3500L
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Re: Pros and conssaid by djrobx:Running a spool of CAT5 is very difficult in some homes. It would cost me thousands to repair all the drywall I'd need to cut up to get from my second story office to the downstairs media niche. You dont need to damage drywall, only cut out a small hole for the wall plug(which will later sit there), and fish the wires thru. Essentially, you stay in the basement, or worst case, you use slightly longer cables and make no cuts in the walls and feed it thru behind the baseboard trim, and behind and thru door trim(pull your baseboard back a little, and you will see that its usually hiding a large gap, in which you can easily and painlessly run long cables, around rooms, thru doorways, and even down stairs and up stairs. Its how I wired my apartment without ever damaging the walls. Sure, the runs are a bit longer in some cases, but if your really dont want to or cant fish them thru the walls, its the way to go. | |
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Re: Pros and consi wish it where that simple for me. concrete slab, 1.5" thick plaster. the baseboard? glued on rubber (like they use in hospitals) smooth as can be on the back (was a few "spare" pieces when we moved in). my option would be to wall fish in to the attic. or, just laying the cable on the floor and using those "cable covers" to get thru door ways. and cross my fingers a door never pinched the cables. | |
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| | | | rradina join:2000-08-08 Chesterfield, MO
1 recommendation |
Re: Pros and consWell, you are screwed if you have a slab.
To those that have basements with forced air heating/cooling, remove the grille from a cold air return duct. Snake from the basement to the grille. Now get in the attic and drill a hole in the top of header board in the same cavity as the grille. Push the cables up into the attic. Drag them through and reverse the procedure for every room as you drop them down into wall cavities. I have a two story and once I had cable from the basement to the attic, the rest was a piece of cake.
NOTE: Most two-story ducts aren't straight through because the walls don't match up with first-floor walls. Get a tape measure and try to find one that's straight through. If none are, try to find one that makes the jog in a closet. That way you can remove a bit of dry wall in the closet to make the turns with the fish tape. Since it's a closet, nobody cares how bad your drywall skills are. As a last resort, you could try using some kind of lightweight twine to see if the HVAC system will suck it through to the basement. Turn on the furnace blower and put plastic food wrap on all the other ducts to concentrate the suction on the one duct. If it works, use the small twine to drag through bigger twine and then use that to drag the cable.
Regarding what kind of twine, yarn would be the perfect weight and flexibility but cold air return ducts aren't usually lined. When they cut through the wall's sill plate, there are lots of splinters and if the yarn frays and gets caught, you're done. It might be interesting to experiment with fishing line fastened to a Styrofoam ball.
If you are desperate and have a gas furnace and/or water heater, you could also try fishing the cable through the flue cavity. However, this probably isn't a good idea and probably isn't code. It could also be a fire hazard if the cable contacts the pipe and starts to melt. | |
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| | | | maartenaElmo Premium Member join:2002-05-10 Orange, CA |
to thedragonmas
said by thedragonmas:i wish it where that simple for me. concrete slab, 1.5" thick plaster. the baseboard? glued on rubber (like they use in hospitals) smooth as can be on the back (was a few "spare" pieces when we moved in). my option would be to wall fish in to the attic. or, just laying the cable on the floor and using those "cable covers" to get thru door ways. and cross my fingers a door never pinched the cables. The attic would be the way to go, and is fairly easy to do. Cut 2 holes the size of a blue box, the ones you use for electricity outlets as well. Get a fish line, the ones made out of fiberglass. You can get them for about $25 at home depot or another hardware store. Drywall saw is about $7, at least the one I used, you'll end up spending about $20 in total for wall mounts, face plates, connector pieces etc, and probably another $30 or so for the cable. I bought a 500ft. box of outside grade cable for $75 because I was running 3 wires under the house, but you can get a 100ft. cable if you just want to do a point-to-point connection and use the attic space. You would probably end up spending less then $100 in total (assuming you already have a switch somewhere, or you plug the one end directly into a computer) and voila, CAT5 cabling through the house. I ended up wiring up 2 bedrooms and the den where the TV is. A fourth cable will go to the garage at some point as I am going to install an ethernet sprinkler timer. | |
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TooMuchCoffe
Anon
2012-Jun-6 3:04 pm
HomePlugsThey do work well, however, I found out that the ones I had also put out a lot of radio frequency interference that affected radio reception in my home, as well as caused my wife's iPad to keep losing it's wifi connectivity. Had to take them out. | |
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Frankie
Anon
2012-Jun-6 3:33 pm
WiPNET?Anybody tried out WiPNET (its a MoCA product) I'm curious... | |
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westdc join:2009-01-25 Amissville, VA |
westdc
Member
2012-Jun-6 3:36 pm
Improve speed on Home wiringWhen possible Make sure the outlets you are using are on the same side of the electrical panel -That will improve your speed.
Electrical panels have a right and left (breakers on both sides). | |
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| aaronwt Premium Member join:2004-11-07 Woodbridge, VA Asus RT-AX89
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aaronwt
Premium Member
2012-Jun-6 3:39 pm
Re: Improve speed on Home wiringThe problem with power line adapters is that you can't run them through a UPS. So if there is a power outage your network will go down. I use UPSs so I can continue using all my electronic and network devices during power outages, brown outs, and power surges.
I recently started using more devices with MoCA with my two TiVo Elite boxes. I hooked them up to the cable along with my two Dlink MoCA adapters. Speeds have been the same as when the Elites were connected to my gigabit network. And i'm able to watch my TiVos during a power outage as well. And still have internet access and access to other devices on my LAN. | |
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| Sammer join:2005-12-22 Canonsburg, PA |
to westdc
said by westdc:When possible Make sure the outlets you are using are on the same side of the electrical panel -That will improve your speed.
Electrical panels have a right and left (breakers on both sides). North American homes have 120 volts wired on two legs. Unless you have half height breakers the 120 volt breaker below another 120 volt breaker will be on the opposite leg. The HomePlug path can be long when the outlets they are pugged into are on opposite legs. | |
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Multiple MOCA's?I have DirecTV which uses a MOCA-like protocol for their boxes to talk to each other. Can I run another, separate MOCA network on the came Coax cables? For example, I have an xbox I would rather wire than do wireless at the same location as my DirecTV box. | |
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Moca vs homeplugOK. I went through this. Homeplug -> Is doesn't like the new GFCI/AFCI breakers or Arc fault breakers (newer homes), and depending upon which side of the bus you are on your speeds will decrease. Depending upon your area and how they wire neutral and ground (mine they join) you may have issues there. Anyhow my house circa 2002 failed due to the fact of the newer breakers where I was trying to plug in. Also I hear motors (esp AC) will cause havoc, so you should plug in a power strip/isolator on these to filter. You can't plug a homeplug into a filtering port (a power strip) as it will attenuate the signal. Ironic... Unfortunately it is very difficult to match homeplug (I tried monoprice, netgear) and they don't inter-operate. Non starter...Power lines were not meant for this.. Coax though -- Ideal if you do it right: MoCA -> Since I have FIOS I had the actiontec lying around after converting to ethernet. I have Cat5e in the house, except the locations (kitchen, morning room) which was built w/ RG6 or power, so I bought a pair of Netgear MCAB0001 brand new for $70 ($35 each) from ebay. People are selling them all the time. In any case a few things to remember since in most houses coax is a branch setup: 1. 100% put terminator caps on every end run AND on the unused port on the moca adapter (if you are not passing TV signal) -- otherwise you will have high frequency time domain reflections going on and it will slow you down. DO NOT FORGET THIS STEP. 2. Put a band pass filter on your top branch point so that the signal doesn't leach out/attenuate of the house and cause disruption upstream. » www.soontai.com/MoCA-LPF-M3.htmlSince I am using the prem coax to pass the cable QAM signal only, I band passed on that (POE Filter), excluding the MoCa frequencies and separated them on separate branches -- fully isolated Moca. This may not be feasible on most people's networks so get a band pass filter only. 3. Moca 1.1 and 2.0 are not compatible. if you try to run them simultaneously then both will degrade rapidly... So be very careful here. 4. As another poster mentioned forget it w/ RG59 because it performs poorly w/ high freq applications Moca. 5. Watch your splitters. If they are not digital get rid of them. Any more than 2 branches (6dB) or more between the master and slaves and you are going to have speed issues. 6. Watch any band pass amps. These are not good. 7. Moca will not work w/ U-verse. They use different technologies. Separate the branch for that. 8. Moca will not work with Sat. You need DECA for that. With that said I have one on an xbox360 (for W7MC/Netflix) and another on a Roku and I can stream both simultaneously hidef without an issue. Eventually I am going to upgrade to Cat6 but in the meantime it cost me $75 to add 2 POPs and 20 min of my time. To spool and terminate the Cat 6 that is a weekend job to do it correctly-- and then I need to test it. Regular guys don't have network testers, so this is not plug and play for the masses. As for Moca deployments, well there are millions since FIOS people have them and there is active development. It works if you do the above. | |
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the niTz Premium Member join:2004-07-05 Sahuarita, AZ |
the niTz
Premium Member
2012-Jun-6 5:37 pm
10gige +wish 10gige (or faster) would become the new standard 117 MB/s (with overhead) is too slow...... | |
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fasterMoca can go well over gigabit when they revamp the standard for 3.0.. the modulation is a variation based on docsis which sends packet data over coax. | |
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ctggzg Premium Member join:2005-02-11 USA |
ctggzg
Premium Member
2012-Jun-7 1:24 am
Prices are overstatedPowerline adapters run $40 - $70 for a pair, not $100 - $150. | |
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Re: Prices are overstatedIf you catch them on sale. Also phoneline seems to be getting short shift since most homes don't use the second pair. | |
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Cobra11M join:2010-12-23 Mineral Wells, TX |
hmmmI would try out the internet over the power line in the house, but knowin the house is from 1920's or younger, and not knowin when the power was put in (60's maybe) dont think it would be ideal for me, prob would feel like dail-up haha
on a second note, my e3000 and my e1000 are bridge together to cover this pretty big house... and backyard pretty much no probs..a few dead spots, but if I ever get to extendin it a little more ill prob go with the newest router standard, and use these other 2 as long as they work... (e3000 smells so bad its not funny, be the last linskys I buy, you can smell the metal burning.....) and the e1000 isnt much better | |
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HomePlug AV experienceMy wife was getting on me a year or so ago about having a Cat5 cable running down the hallway downstairs, so I picked up 3 Zyxel HomePlug AV adapters (the 200mbit ones, in a 2-pack plus one additional adapter). I wanted to buy the cheaper Monoprice ones, but they said that I may not be able to run them 3-way. Setup was pretty painless (although upgrading the firmware and running status utilities is not, since you have to upgrade each adapter from its local side and not over powerline bridge). I had some problems early on with streaming video (in DVD ISO format) across it via a Samba connection, but it cleared up (possibly after a firmware upgrade and/or removal of a dodgy ethernet switch from the LAN). I only get around 30mbps over Samba, but I get over 40 over SFTP. I get the impression that the HomePlug AV bridge may be half-duplex even though it presents a full-duplex ethernet interface, as others have reported that TCP throughput is worse than UDP. This is disappointing since they advertise a max of 200mbit, but it's been adequate for my needs; I can even stream HD video over Samba fairly well at this point. I'm about to move from my 1978-ish house (remodeled a bit in the '90s) to a 1995 house, so it will be interesting to see if I get different performance there. The TV area and the office are on opposite ends of the house downstairs, so I will be using the HomePlug AV adapters to bridge them, and the internet will probably come in on the TV side. I may use the 3rd adapter upstairs, if only to add a 3rd wireless hotspot | |
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Another alternative is 802.11acIf you are willing to wait a bit . Also if you are going to run cable run CAT6 not 5e. The price difference is minimal and it's ready for 10Gb Ethernet. | |
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·Sprint ·DM Wireless ·AT&T Wireless Br..
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No one mentioned this...I have the Netgear XET1000's and they work fine. Not sure what the throughput is, because the software utility that comes with them shows 68Mbps for the one near me and 11.5Mbps for the one at the other end of the stream, but they work fine for connecting my two WiFi access points.
BUT, check this out: if you are using a router with DHCP, as many of us are, these power line devices will seek an IP address from the DHCP server and unless you deny that, I think you have just punched a bit of a hole in your net security. Neighbors who are on the same power line transformer as you, sometimes 5-6 adjoining houses, might be able to access your net unless you ramp up security a bit. I'm not 100% positive of this but I think it bears looking into, and I'd welcome a more expert opinion.
We also have a power meter outside from the local utility company that seeks an IP address and I've blocked all of these devices. I think the utility company can 'read' the meter remotely because it has a MAC address. If they can access the meter and I let it have a local IP address to my net I think I'd be vulnerable. Any other knowledge here about this? | |
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