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<title>A reality check for do-it-yourselfers... in Comcast Cable TV</title>
<link>http://www.dslreports.com/forum/r12516900</link>
<description></description>
<language>en</language>
<pubDate>Wed, 08 Oct 2008 04:32:30 EDT</pubDate>
<lastBuildDate>Wed, 08 Oct 2008 04:32:30 EDT</lastBuildDate>

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<title>Re: A reality check for do-it-yourselfers...</title>
<link>http://www.dslreports.com/forum/remark,13069912</link>
<description><![CDATA[<A HREF="/useremail/u/879977"><b>egnlsn</b></A> : <div class="bquote"><SMALL>said by Frank Bello:</SMALL><BR><BR>I just had a tech come out to check a signal problem. He changed a couple of splitters and put new connectors on.  My question is whats the deal with the new connectors? They seem to be color coded and not the old hex crimp.  What do the different colors signify and what is the differance between the old and the new connectors?  <br> </DIV>The color just identifies the type of cable (59 vs 6; standard vs quad-shield).<br><br>A few differences between hex-crimp and compression connectors.  Hex-crimp creates 6 points of impedance mismatch, which, are 6 points of signal reflection.  Reflections can cause standing wave (analog) and/or packet collisions (digital).  Return loss is also much better with compression connectors (>30dB vs upper teens for hex-crimp).]]></description>
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<pubDate>Sat, 02 Apr 2005 10:16:04 EDT</pubDate>
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<title>Re: A reality check for do-it-yourselfers...</title>
<link>http://www.dslreports.com/forum/remark,13067108</link>
<description><![CDATA[<A HREF="/useremail/u/0"><b>anon</b></A> : I just had a tech come out to check a signal problem. He changed a couple of splitters and put new connectors on.  My question is whats the deal with the new connectors? They seem to be color coded and not the old hex crimp.  What do the different colors signify and what is the differance between the old and the new connectors?  ]]></description>
<guid isPermaLink="true">http://www.dslreports.com/forum/remark,13067108</guid>
<pubDate>Fri, 01 Apr 2005 22:04:20 EDT</pubDate>
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<title>Re: A reality check for do-it-yourselfers...</title>
<link>http://www.dslreports.com/forum/remark,13045062</link>
<description><![CDATA[<A HREF="/useremail/u/700991"><b>SuperNet33</b></A> : I have my own tools and i am glad i bought them.<br>i used it many more then one time.<br>i got 1000ft of cable and the digicom tool and 100 fittings  for $30.00 RG6.<br>from the comcast tech that came out:)<br><SMALL>--<br>Comcast HSI 4.0-384 / ATT CV - VOIP / &raquo;<A HREF="http://www.TalkABoutVoIP.com" >www.TalkABoutVoIP.com</A> my  VoIP page!</SMALL>]]></description>
<guid isPermaLink="true">http://www.dslreports.com/forum/remark,13045062</guid>
<pubDate>Wed, 30 Mar 2005 15:29:46 EDT</pubDate>
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<title>Re: A reality check for do-it-yourselfers...</title>
<link>http://www.dslreports.com/forum/remark,13035501</link>
<description><![CDATA[<A HREF="/useremail/u/0"><b>anon</b></A> : Well when Comcast come out in the Bay area they only know how to troubleshoot Analog issues they have no idea how to even check SNR for the digital channels. They just check the analog signal level and if it is within the -15 to +15dbm range it is "ok" <br><br>They have never tested for Ingress and believe me we have some serious ingress on our plant. INHD and INHD2 do not work at my location due to ingress. <br><br>Plus you can't beat the fun of running the cables your self. ]]></description>
<guid isPermaLink="true">http://www.dslreports.com/forum/remark,13035501</guid>
<pubDate>Tue, 29 Mar 2005 16:19:07 EDT</pubDate>
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<title>Re: A reality check for do-it-yourselfers...</title>
<link>http://www.dslreports.com/forum/remark,13035173</link>
<description><![CDATA[<A HREF="/useremail/u/700156"><b>Bink63</b></A> : Cool,<br><br>Did you do it yourself or have someone do it for you?<br><br>What type of F connectors did you use, twist-on, side crimped or compression?<br><br>How much was the tool you used to crimp the connectors, did you buy it or borrow it?<br><br>What are your signal strengths on channels 2, 76 and 701.1 mhz at the tap, ground block and at each outlet?<br><br>And the biggest question, how long did it take you and what do you consider the value of your time per hour?  ;)<br><br>Regards,<br><br>Randy<br><SMALL>--<br>Just my .02alt0162 worth!<BR><A HREF="http://www.legacypcs.com">Legacy Consulting</A></SMALL>]]></description>
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<pubDate>Tue, 29 Mar 2005 15:41:22 EDT</pubDate>
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<title>Re: A reality check for do-it-yourselfers...</title>
<link>http://www.dslreports.com/forum/remark,13034872</link>
<description><![CDATA[<A HREF="/useremail/u/745621"><b>BudBob</b></A> : Just installed 2 new lines $30.]]></description>
<guid isPermaLink="true">http://www.dslreports.com/forum/remark,13034872</guid>
<pubDate>Tue, 29 Mar 2005 15:05:40 EDT</pubDate>
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<title>Re: A reality check for do-it-yourselfers...</title>
<link>http://www.dslreports.com/forum/remark,13033717</link>
<description><![CDATA[<A HREF="/useremail/u/969071"><b>HockeyPuck86</b></A> : Ok.. I'll be sure to have Comcast come out and install the next outlet I Need ;)<br><br>Or I guess I could save myself the money and have my brother (who use to work for a cable contractor) come over and do it for me. (last I checked that was free). I'm not about to have Comcast come out and install something I can have done for free at the same quality and yes, he does have that $1000 meter.]]></description>
<guid isPermaLink="true">http://www.dslreports.com/forum/remark,13033717</guid>
<pubDate>Tue, 29 Mar 2005 12:48:02 EDT</pubDate>
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<title>Re: A reality check for do-it-yourselfers...</title>
<link>http://www.dslreports.com/forum/remark,13029072</link>
<description><![CDATA[<A HREF="/useremail/u/151404"><b>wee96</b></A> : One of the main problems with "do-it-yourself" work is poorly designed fittings/cable/etc. Most customers have no idea about signal leakage, or ingress issues for that matter. Even 1 improper fitting can cause a major leak that will either a) be padded down at the tap so the signal hitting your home will be very low, causing you to need a service call so they can properly find and fix the problem. Or b) cause your connection to be disconnected completely. While im happy to see people save money and do things themselves, I just want to warn people that it might end up costing you more money than you thought. Ive had to fix more than enough customer installed cable to know that its definately not a good idea usually. ]]></description>
<guid isPermaLink="true">http://www.dslreports.com/forum/remark,13029072</guid>
<pubDate>Mon, 28 Mar 2005 21:26:52 EDT</pubDate>
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<title>Re: A reality check for do-it-yourselfers...</title>
<link>http://www.dslreports.com/forum/remark,13026307</link>
<description><![CDATA[<A HREF="/useremail/u/1075479"><b>bullyvision</b></A> :   Dear DIY,<br>  Is it really that bad for us to wire your house? First we start by realizing what is possible and what is normally done in a house (like wallplate placement; a good tech will tell you why it is a good spot and why it isn't). The technician should go up the pole or open the underground ped and take an ingress reading of the drop (similar to interference, if you don't have a $1000 meter this is close to impossible...). Then the technician takes a signal reading ($1000 meter again) outside the house where the feed is about to begin (ground block) prefered 10/10dBmv (Ch 76/ Ch 2). If everything is up to code (including safty bond per NEC), the tech will then check where all the wires assemble together like in the basement by the fuze panal (hopefully...), if there is too much splitter attenuation then he will inform you of different options in order to meat the 0dBmv FCC requirement like a house amp, additional drop (*will do no good in a properly designed system because when they design a system it is one service drop per house so the tech would just end up cutting the signal closer to the noise floor right at the tap, unless he orders a system order to install another tap, but system designers hate that because it nocks every tap down the line a half of a dB; and no tap level subsitutions for lower Tap attenuation*), or even terminating an outlet that is out of use. Now this concludes that a house can only capacitate 4 video outlets, and one High Speed Internet connection without taking other means to get more signal, and that is not to mention the configuring of the return for digital devices (example 23 value 4 way doesn't have very much to work with when it comes to return value, normally in the system I work with a 4 way 23 value tap you can only attenuate the return by 7.5dB before it is a non responder...).<br>  So basically we are losing money installing your outlets so please do not hesitate to put your cable installation up to the difficulty of a cable tech, we wouldn't install outlets if we didn't have to, but it is about you not us, stop giving yourself headaches. A lot more is going through a cable tech's head now with all the digital devices and extensive training that Comcast puts their employees through. And if a tech does a poor job or they are not doing the services requested properly do not hesitate to just say so.]]></description>
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<pubDate>Mon, 28 Mar 2005 15:52:54 EDT</pubDate>
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<title>Re: Forum FAQ Suggestions</title>
<link>http://www.dslreports.com/forum/remark,12526905</link>
<description><![CDATA[<A HREF="/useremail/u/573391"><b>JTRockville</b></A> : I got the term "single wall-fish" from a letter Ellen Bogage (Comcast of Montgomery Director of Government and Community Affairs) wrote to Jane Lawton (Montgomery County MD's Cable Administrator) explaining Comcast's policies regarding custom installation work.<br><br>You can read the letter in Montgomery County's <U><A HREF="http://montgomerycountymd.gov/apps/council/compackets/041206/20041206mfp01.pdf">quarterly review of Comcast</A></U> 04-Q3 on page 27 of the pdf.<br><br>In Ms. Bogage's words...<br><br>"Put simply, Comcast does not perform custom work."<br><br>"Additionally, our contractors are not authorized to perform custom work on behalf of Comcast."]]></description>
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<pubDate>Sat, 29 Jan 2005 21:53:28 EDT</pubDate>
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<title>Re: Forum FAQ Suggestions</title>
<link>http://www.dslreports.com/forum/remark,12526687</link>
<description><![CDATA[<A HREF="/useremail/u/687068"><b>briankelly9</b></A> :  <div class="bquote"><SMALL>said by  JTRockville <A HREF="/useremail/u/573391"><IMG SRC="http://i.dslr.net/bb/profile.gif" ALT="See Profile" BORDER=0 WIDTH=16 HEIGHT=11></A>:</SMALL><BR><BR> <BLOCKQUOTE><SMALL>said by  sonofjay <A HREF="/useremail/u/390247"><IMG SRC="http://i.dslr.net/bb/profile.gif" ALT="See Profile" BORDER=0 WIDTH=16 HEIGHT=11></A>:</SMALL><HR>Plus, $32.95/hour to do any cable fishing through walls, customization you would do yourself, etc in order to make the job 'clean' and 'neat'.<HR></BLOCKQUOTE><br><br>Remember: Comcast pricing and policies vary by region.<br><br>Here, Comcast will <I>only</I> install outlets if they require no more than a single wall fish, and they <I>will not</I> cut, patch, or paint drywall.<br><br>So depending on your needs, you can probably rule out Comcast as a choice, regardless of price.<br><br>Custom work can generally be contracted for at $60/hour, which makes DIY a bit more attractive if you're into that sort of thing. Personally, I prefer to have it done by someone who knows what they're doing - that way I can be sure it's done right.<br> <IMG SRC="http://clicksmilies.com/s0105/spezial/jasons_smilie/blush.gif"> <br> </DIV>as a contractor for them i do 5-6 custom jobs a day all wallfishing . its 42.05 per tech per hour. i always have a helper so its 84.10 per hour for 2 of us. most of our jobs anymore are fishing a wire from the basement to the attic and then down an interior or exterior wall on the second floor. i dont know what you meant by "single wall" but we do 2 up and one down (3 total) on almost every job. we can usually do those jobs in under an hour so its 84.10. an electrician to do the same job is triple. even when your house is being built the electricians want 100 bucks to run a cable outlet before the house even has drywall. for 30 bucks you can have them drill thru your siding, drill thru your window , through your brand new floor, staple black wire around your baseboard, flex clip black wire all around the outside of your house etc. and i dont know what they do for modems on the second floor when the main splitter is in the basement. most people i deal with are nicer houses and have already heard the 30 dollar guys BS and they would rather pay to have it done right. we usually dont need to cut any more drywall then the wallplate will cover up. in my truck i carry right angle drills, hammer drills, sawzalls, circular saw, 3 kinds of fishtsticks, chains, magnets, about 50 different drill bits ranging from 6 inchs to 6 foot. we do carry stuff to patch holes except rarely need it.we get all the best wire and splitters and any other cable material supplied by comcast.    ]]></description>
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<pubDate>Sat, 29 Jan 2005 21:26:52 EDT</pubDate>
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<title>Re: A reality check for do-it-yourselfers...</title>
<link>http://www.dslreports.com/forum/remark,12526088</link>
<description><![CDATA[<A HREF="/useremail/u/969071"><b>HockeyPuck86</b></A> : Coax Stripper.. I have that<br>Compression Fittings.. Yep those too<br>Compression Crimper.. Yep<br>Wall Plate F Connector.. A Bunch<br>Quality RG-6 Coax.. 2 big ol' boxes of it<br>10-15 Comcast APPROVED splitters (2/3)<br><br>Why pay for an additional outlet? lol]]></description>
<guid isPermaLink="true">http://www.dslreports.com/forum/remark,12526088</guid>
<pubDate>Sat, 29 Jan 2005 20:09:23 EDT</pubDate>
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<title>Re: Forum FAQ Suggestions</title>
<link>http://www.dslreports.com/forum/remark,12524977</link>
<description><![CDATA[<A HREF="/useremail/u/573391"><b>JTRockville</b></A> :  <BLOCKQUOTE><SMALL>said by  sonofjay <A HREF="/useremail/u/390247"><IMG SRC="http://i.dslr.net/bb/profile.gif" ALT="See Profile" BORDER=0 WIDTH=16 HEIGHT=11></A>:</SMALL><HR>Plus, $32.95/hour to do any cable fishing through walls, customization you would do yourself, etc in order to make the job 'clean' and 'neat'.<HR></BLOCKQUOTE><br><br>Remember: Comcast pricing and policies vary by region.<br><br>Here, Comcast will <I>only</I> install outlets if they require no more than a single wall fish, and they <I>will not</I> cut, patch, or paint drywall.<br><br>So depending on your needs, you can probably rule out Comcast as a choice, regardless of price.<br><br>Custom work can generally be contracted for at $60/hour, which makes DIY a bit more attractive if you're into that sort of thing. Personally, I prefer to have it done by someone who knows what they're doing - that way I can be sure it's done right.<br> <IMG SRC="http://clicksmilies.com/s0105/spezial/jasons_smilie/blush.gif"> ]]></description>
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<pubDate>Sat, 29 Jan 2005 17:58:59 EDT</pubDate>
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<title>Re: Forum FAQ Suggestions</title>
<link>http://www.dslreports.com/forum/remark,12520039</link>
<description><![CDATA[<A HREF="/useremail/u/390247"><b>sonofjay</b></A> :  <div class="bquote"><SMALL>said by  Bink63 <A HREF="/useremail/u/700156"><IMG SRC="http://i.dslr.net/bb/profile.gif" ALT="See Profile" BORDER=0 WIDTH=16 HEIGHT=11></A>:</SMALL><br><br>A reality check for do-it-yourselfers...<br><SMALL>These are ballpark figures, not exact!</SMALL><br><br>Let's examine a hypothetical do-it-yourself cable outlet installation...<br>[snip....]<br>To add ONE outlet to a room 25 wire feet from your existing splitter is going to cost...<br><br><STRONG>$119.50!!!!</STRONG><br><br>And there is no guarantee that you did it right.<br><br> </DIV>Well, let's hope this was meant to be a joke. Can you really load the cost of all the tools, plus 50 connections into the price of the 1st outlet you wire? Com'on? <br><br>Let's try this again with some numbers that are some where closer to reality:<br><br>$25.00   25 ft of cable<br>$ 7.50   Wall Plate & Connector<br>$ 7.00   Splitter<br>$ 1.50   3 compression fittings<br>---------<br>$41.00   Total.<br><br>And because you did it yourself you can be <I>assured</I> it was done right.<br><br>Now instead of trying to load the price of the tools into the first install, you either have:<br><br>-a compression tool, stripper and fittings you can use to wire other outlets and reuse and keep for later on. or<br><br>-tools that have only 1 use that you can turn around and sell (or even give away as gifts ;)).<br><br>To have an installer do it (using Comcast's price-list) is $23.95 and a 2 hour window usually during business hours out of your work day to meet him/her. Plus, $32.95/hour to do any cable fishing through walls, customization you would do yourself, etc in order to make the job 'clean' and 'neat'.<br><br>Its pretty much a wash cost wise and really depends on level of comfort doing a job like this.<br><SMALL>--<br>Ask yourself;  'Am I better off today than I was four years ago?'  <A HREF="http://www.aflcio.org/yourjobeconomy/todayseconomy/jobgrowth.cfm">The Record</A></SMALL>]]></description>
<guid isPermaLink="true">http://www.dslreports.com/forum/remark,12520039</guid>
<pubDate>Sat, 29 Jan 2005 01:05:17 EDT</pubDate>
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<item>
<title>A reality check for do-it-yourselfers...</title>
<link>http://www.dslreports.com/forum/remark,12516900</link>
<description><![CDATA[<A HREF="/useremail/u/700156"><b>Bink63</b></A> : A reality check for do-it-yourselfers...<br><br><SMALL>These are ballpark figures, not exact!</SMALL><br><br>Let's examine a hypothetical do-it-yourself cable outlet installation...<br><br>Items you'll need:<br><br>Coax Stripper: $15.00<br><br>Compression Fittings: $25.00 for 50<br><br>Compression Crimper: $40.00, or more!<br><br>Quality RG-6 Coax: $1.00/foot<br><br>Snap-in Wallplate F Connector: $2.50<br><br>Wallplate for Snap-in F Connector: $5.00<br><br>Non-Comcast approved 3-way Splitter: $7.00<br><br>Let's say you already have the other tools, such as a drill, proper bits and screwdrivers etc.<br><br>To add ONE outlet to a room 25 wire feet from your existing splitter is going to cost...<br><br><STRONG>$119.50!!!!</STRONG><br><br>And there is no guarantee that you did it right.<br><br>Something to think about.<br><br>Regards,<br><br>Randy]]></description>
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<pubDate>Fri, 28 Jan 2005 18:47:04 EDT</pubDate>
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