sillzez
Sunkissed Shelly
Premium
join:2002-06-21
Schwenksville, PA
1 edit | [Help] Need to take photos of bike parts for customer...
Canon EOS DIGITAL REBEL
27mm 1/60th F4 ISO400
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Will want parts to look nice on a white or a black background. Obviously maybe a straight on, a 3/4 view to view the thickness, and a closeup to view the engraved portion. Ive attached a picture of the first shipment in their packaging (im allowed to take take them out of that)
Anyone have any input on anything? What type of lighting? Where? I only have a 300D (kit lens), sigma 70-300, a walmart tripod, a remote, and some assorted filters lol nothing fancy. I can rig up some sort of white box probably for the small parts. I'm not looking to spend any $ to do this. I am a designer by day so i can pretty much correct any color problems or reflections but I'd like to be able to minimize that in the first place by using the right technique/camera settings. As you can also see from the fast picture, some of them look black, some of them look white. I need these to look shiny silver like they are--so any tips on acheiving that (like should they be placed on a slanted surface? lol i dunno)
Thanks 
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HFB1217
The Wizard
Premium,ExMod 2000-01
join:2000-06-26
Camelot
clubs:  
1 edit | I could be wrong but a diffused light source would cut the glare. Something like a layer or two of a gauze like material as a filter for the ligting would make it softer. As would multiple light sources.
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WaxPhoto
I AM SAM
Premium
join:2004-04-08
Roanoke, IN
| reply to sillzez
stev32k  Is probably the go-to guy on this one... His experience with coins should come in handy.
My advice: If you want the engravings to be legible, have the (diffused)light coming from only one side, at a low angle (30 degrees off surface the parts are on) and pointing diagonally.
You might also want to experiment with light painting... long exposure, a flashlight(paper towel over it so its diffused), and several different angles. Experiment a bit... take your time.
Black velvet would probably be best for the background. Specular highlights can always be cleaned up with cloning/healing tools.
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HFB1217
The Wizard
Premium,ExMod 2000-01
join:2000-06-26
Camelot
clubs:
1 edit | reply to sillzez
To high lite markings and lettering use a black crayon to fill the groves them wipe the excess off it will bring out a higher contrast for the labeling.
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tmpchaos
Requiescat in pace
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join:2000-04-28
Hoboken, NJ
clubs:
Host:
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Digital Imaging
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| reply to sillzez
To show a true 'mirror finish' requires a light source near the lens (as you can see from your sample pic- where the items are near the lens axis, they're 'silver', while when away, they're dark). Of course, that's for the overhead shot. For the 3/4 shot, the light would need to be 'behind' the objects, so it reflects into the lens. In both cases, you'd want a large, diffuse light source, to avoid hot spots.
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sillzez
Sunkissed Shelly
Premium
join:2002-06-21
Schwenksville, PA | reply to sillzez
thx guys! |
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AzzKicker
Premium
join:2001-02-04
Edinburg, TX
clubs: | reply to sillzez
Build a small light box. And don't use flash on the camera. |
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