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2kmaro
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Re: protection against electrical surge-(lightning)
UPS - now there's something I can talk about. Each and every computer I have has its own dedicated UPS that it gets its power through. Additionally, I have another that provides power/protection to my modem/router/switch setup.
Jazzy- a UPS is connected just like a surge suppressor: you plug it into the wall, you plug the equipment in to it. All good ones have built-in surge suppression, usually as good as a 'plain' surge suppressor. The UPS part of it is actually a battery inside of the unit. So if your local power goes down, you have enough power to (how coincidental, 2 of my units just gave little beeps, letting me know I've got some transient power drops happening right now that they took care of) -- to continue, the battery power will give you time to gracefully shut down the equipment if the power goes completely out. Some units even come with a data cable that goes between the UPS unit and the computer and if you are away when the power goes out and the computer is on, after a preset time (or when battery drops to a preset level) the UPS tells the computer to turn off before all power is gone.
UPS usually has two sets of connectors: all will have surge suppressor built into them, and often only a few (3 or 4) have the battery connected. Not everything needs battery power and some things eat it up quickly - like laser printers. So generally you plug the computer/CPU and the monitor into the connectors with backup power available, and other things into the surge-protection-only sockets.
UPS have come a long way and the prices have really gone down over the years. I have a very old, but still serviceable unit, made by Black Box that I use as the one for the router/switch/modem group. It is a 250VA unit and cost me about $250 when it was new. These days you can buy them 3 or 4 times that powerful at less than half the cost. I see that NewEgg is selling an 800VA APC brand (American Power Conversion) for $110 (plus $19 shipping - and they are heavy). I have a model similar to that, mine is a 900 RS vs the 800 RS shown there. I also have a 1200 VA Belkin brand unit connected to another system. Other APC units of differing sizes connected to the other computers. I consider APC, Belkin and Trip-Lite to be 3 very good names in UPS units.
As I said, prices have come way down, and are actually competitive with just a plain surge suppressor. You can often pick up a quality 500-600VA sized unit for under $50 which makes them very competitive with a good quality surge suppressor.
Another thing to look for in a UPS is what is usually called AVR circuitry. This is basically power-smoothing to keep the actual voltage getting to your equipment close to the nominal 120V that they need to operate properly. When the line voltage goes low, they tweak it up a little. When it goes a little high, they adjust it downward.
Will these protect better or worse against lightening strikes: no, about the same. As a matter of fact, I figure in the case of a direct hit (you can run, but you can't hide - ain't nothing going to save your hide) they may make things messier if the battery actually blows up.
I consider the most important aspect of having a UPS the protection from data loss or even drive failure due to a transient mini-blackout. The kind I had earlier while typing this. I mean those little hits you take every once in a while that make the lights kind of blink or reset the clocks on your VCR, microwave, etc. Take one of those while saving a file and the file can easily be corrupted and unusable. Plus they protect the work you're doing on open files from being lost during one of those that might be enough to cause the computer to reboot. That's where they pay for themselves rather quickly as far as I'm concerned. That and letting you gracefully shut down if the power goes out and stays out long enough for you to decide it's not coming back on any time soon.
In the long run it is these mini-blackouts (APC calls them sags) that cause more data loss than surges do.
APC has some good information about power and the problems associated with it. Try these pages:
»www.apc.com/power/problems.cfm (the problem)
»www.apc.com/power/power_event.cfm (power 'events')
They even have a 'Wizard' set up to help you decide what size and which of their UPS units will meet your needs. It asks you about what you want to protect in several stages, and finally gives you some options as to what size unit you should purchase: »www.apc.com/tools/wizard/home/zoneForm.cfm
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whocares
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| HELLO MY FRIEN 2K,hope that you are well SIR THANK YOU FOR THE INFO
1st page here)
Friend L has something like that on his system,& his computer plugged into it,where if power outtage,his computer is is STILL on,then gradually shuts down & off, »protection against electrical surge-(lightning)
just got off phone with friend "L" [b]what do you mean when i go by BestBuy,(lol) everytime i go go by bestBuy,it cost you $$$,but told me his UPS cost around $100, so he'll pick me up one,
QUESTION(S) please
#1.Should i get one ONLY for computer & its accessories,(ie printer, modem,monitor,ect)
or
get 2 ======1 for computer & another for flat screen tv,dvd/vcr combo, ect?
#2,
2K should i use this WITH or along with the surge protectors or by itself?
thank you jazzy,
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signmeuptoo
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1 edit | reply to ChiTang
First of all, a bolt can strike a power line as much as a mile away and still damage or set a home on fire. I have seen this, FACT. Lightning is NOT the only thing, either, in fact, other problems are much more prevalent, even DAILY depending upon where you live. There are meters that one can rent that will monitor your house current and print out a sheet showing what things look like over the course of a 24 hour period, for instance.
Lightning rods have an EXTREMELY LOW efficacy except in certain commercial settings. And there is a lot of myth about them, such as people thinking they should be pointed. A blunt tip lightning rod is MUCH more effective than a sharp tipped one. Further: Lightning will completely by pass a rod and strike the ground next to it, lightning is outrageously unpredictable.
You also have to remember, lightning, as I have said, is only ONE of your worries as far as surges, sags, spikes, and noise goes.
Now, as far as the meter approach: You have to have the power company involved if you go that way, and, further, it isn't on a breaker, so there are disadvantages that that methodology. OTOH, Breaker Panel arresters/protectors aren't always as stout/beefy. When it comes to these devices, you get what you pay for. Anything is MUCH better than nothing, but for a really proximal strike, say one on your street, you need a beefy unit to protect you with maximum assurance.
These devices are not infallible, but the designers and manufacturers of them have benefited with, what, a century of knowledge in commercial settings such as radio stations, and home owners can benefit from this knowledge with the superior quality and better design of today's devices.
You want as good a house ground as possible, as good a whole house lower surge and higher spike arrester protection as possible, protection on your phone line too, and either high quality UPSs or surge protectors on quality home wiring with tested good grounds.
Depending upon a lightning rod is like putting an aluminum foil hat on to protect you from alien invasions. Ah, well, almost that is.
When I was a boy a bolt struck NOT our house, but right beside it, throwing a door open that had a somewhat weak latch, knocking my precious baby sister in the head and to the floor. To this day she is scared of lightning for a good reason. You simply cannot predict what lightning will do.
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whocares
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2 edits | thank you signmeuptoo,plz no argumentsi am just trying to protect my home items,I DO appreciate your information as others do also,signmeuptoo{/b]for that is the way for me to
L E A R N jazzy
P.S
signmeuptoo
First of all,[b]a bolt can strike a power line as much as a mile away and still damage or set a home on fire. I DO NOT doubt this for a minute,
i don't know about lightning,but have seen twice a DWI,hit a light pole or cut one 1/2 through & the local electricity went out, (early evening) at business's over a mile away from where i live- and a lightning bolt is sure a lot more powerful then any electric company. | |
signmeuptoo
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Jazzy, I disagree with your "friend" at the station. Here is why:
He/she is very correct about a very proximal strike having greater potential to fail to protect you, but most of the time the strike is NOT that proximal that ends up doing the damage. Don't think small here, think of a circle at least greater than 1/4 mile to a mile! Also, the protector if it is of really good quality will still work to at least some measure of efficacy, and respond long enough for breakers and what not to finish the job.
He is telling you to depend only on a UPS. Well think about it: NO ELECTRICIAN or good degreed electronics worker will tell you this alone. Why? Think, common sense here: Your house wiring in most rooms is 14 gauge wire meant for only 15 amps or less. How good do you think a UPS will be only depending upon such wiring. Furthermore, the wiring is all bundled together! Think here: a bolt traveling down the wire can travel down ALL THREE LEADS, not just the hot wire, BUT the Neutral (white) AND EVEN the ground wire!!! Electricity, when at high voltages, travels along the outside of a wire, it is a known physics effect of high voltages. Your house wiring will heat up, turn red hot, short out and start a fire. Don't tell me this can't happen because I HAVE SEEN IT as both a son of a firefighter and as an electrician in Houston Texas, and a few times at that!
It amazes me the poor advice people give out on this topic, it is somewhat scary to me. A UPS can't do you a single bit of good if the voltage is high enough and the strike proximal enough. You have to do what you can to stop this at your home service drop. I don't know who your friend is, or what his/her credentials are, but Jazzy, take this thread over to the electronics forum and let the guys there give you REAL professional advice. I will tell you right off: There are Master electricians and Bachelor and higher degreed electronics guys over there that know more than me, and they can set things straight for you.
Suffice it to say: You DO want a whole house protector, and also one on your telephone service drop at your NID.
HTH
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whocares
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| signmeuptoo
Think here: a bolt traveling down the wire can travel down ALL THREE LEADS, not just the hot wire,BUT the Neutral (white) AND EVEN the ground wire!!! Electricity, when at high voltages, travels along the outside of a wire, it is a known physics effect of high voltages
============================================
yes know this from old working days at airline & from good friends (A & P mechanics) still working when we were discussing that airline (747) that went down off NYC due to a short/frail wiring.
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antiphishing
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said by whocares  :Moderator,not sure which forum to ask in,plz move to correct forum if nechello all hope your having a good RELAXing weekend, have curiosity question plz. SITUATION4-5+ yrs ago,FRIEND "L" reccomended that I purchased "surge protectors" to guard the TV & vcr,,(NOW DVD/VCR) so i bought 2 of them,(both with multiple plug ins) ok? one has tv,dvd/vcr & directv box plugged into it the 2nd one has this computer,printer,monitor plugged into it, was told "both will protect again a lightning strike.made by RECOTON, Question(s)SO in reality,will a surge protector protect my items against lightning hit,? I connect my computer and all my electronics to a APC Smart UPS 750 which is total overkill but it does have 'sine wave' output when it's in battery backup mode
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whocares
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| said by antiphishing :said by whocares : I connect my computer and all my electronics to a APC Smart UPS 750 which is total overkill but it does have 'sine wave' output when it's in battery backup mode HELLO antiphishing.PLZ,
I connect my computer and all my electronics to a APC Smart UPS 750 which is total overkill
HOW is it OverKill
and
what is but it does have 'sine wave' output
thank you for the help, "Jazzy"
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whocares
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| for FRIENDS ,what I have found
Why a UPS and not a surge protector?
UPS units have a leg-up on surge protectors in many ways. Both handle surges, but a UPS gives you battery backup power. This allows time to save the data in your computer and shut down your system before anything is lost. Typical battery backup run times are shown in minutes and indicate the amount of time the battery backup operates. A UPS protects your computer from electrical noise and damaging power surges, including lightning. A surge protector can handle surges during a brownout, but your system will still have to work harder due to the lower voltage.
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signmeuptoo
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| reply to whocares
Re: protection against electrical surge-(lightning)
Jazzy, draw a circle and cut it in half, then take the bottom half and rotate it 180 degrees leaving the end still in contact with the top half. Now you have a "waveform", a peak and a valley. Sinusoidal waveforms are similar, they are a function of the 60 cycle rotation at the power generating plant, one rotation equals one "period". As the electromagnets move the poles approach and then diverge, making the voltage change from, say, starting at zero and curving up to +117V, back down to 0 and then curving down to -117V and then curving back to zero and repeating. (it's actually NOT 117V, but at MUCH MUCH higher voltages, but this is just for example).
A sinusoidal wave is a mapped mathematical thing. I am too rusty on my math to go into it, but surely there are guys here who haven't suffered brain trauma like me and remember their math to explain it.
Suffice it to say that A.C., which is Alternating Current, Alternates between a positive max voltage and a negative max voltage, and since it is cleanly periodic, it will show up as a constant/repeating wave pattern on an oscilloscope.
Hope that helps.
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antiphishing
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| reply to whocares
Sine wave |
said by whocares :said by antiphishing :said by whocares : I connect my computer and all my electronics to a APC Smart UPS 750 which is total overkill but it does have 'sine wave' output when it's in battery backup mode HELLO antiphishing.PLZ, I connect my computer and all my electronics to a APC Smart UPS 750 which is total overkill HOW is it OverKilland what is but it does have 'sine wave' output thank you for the help, "Jazzy" It's total overkill because the Smart Ups 750 is suppose to be used for work stations and servers. With a output of 750VA it could run my Dell laptop for I guess about three
days if the power went out.
»www.apc.com/resource/include/tec···u=SUA750
»www.apc.com/products/family/index.cfm?id=165
»www.answers.com/topic/uninterrup···r-supply
The sine-wave or square-wave refers to how the power that the UPS provides looks when on battery. Normal AC power from a wall outlet is sine wave. However, manufacturing a UPS which provides sine-wave power is more expensive, so lower end UPS units will provide square-wave or modified square-wave power. Since computers convert AC power into DC, the type of wave usually will not cause problems for computers, monitors or other non-motorized electronic devices, although they will cause electronics plugged into them to emit a buzzing noise when on battery. Square-wave power will cause damage to motorized loads such as pumps, motors, etc. and should not ever be used with them. Sine-wave units produce cleaner power which is healthier for computers and can also provide power for motorized loads. Smart-UPS units over 700 VA all have built in automatic voltage regulation as well which cleans up AC power even when the unit is not on battery.
»www.pcguide.com/ref/power/ext/up···t-c.html
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2kmaro
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1 edit | reply to whocares
I think by 'overkill' he either means the unit is bigger than he needs or that he's connected some things to it/them that you wouldn't normally connect. Say a TV - Ok, so your TV stays on, but probably the signal to it (if you're on cable) went bye-bye. A surge suppressor alone would probably do the job there.
As for the UPS being the 'be-all' and 'end-all' of protection, as others have stated, it is not. There is no such thing as 100% fail-safe protection. But it is definitely better than nothing, and for general data and computer protection in all but catastrophic cases, it is simply the cheapest 'insurance' you can buy.
That last link I posted above leads you through a process that will end up giving you a pretty good idea of what sized UPS to purchase for your computer or other system (they have several paths to follow - computer, home theater, etc). Let's say you pretty well pin down your computer and its attached devices and they tell you that you need a 500VA unit to give you 5 minutes of run time after the power goes completely out. They will also recommend a couple of others that are larger, and the obvious (and about the only difference) is the length of time that the battery will provide power to the computer before it also goes dead. The amount of time is typically measured in minutes, not hours or days, and 5 minutes is usually enough for you to get to a system and shut it down if you're nearby. 10 or 15 or more minutes is just a kind of extra margin and how much margin you get depends on how much you want to pay. So in the case where a 500VA rated unit is 'good enough', a larger one simply gives you more time to stumble through the dark from computer to computer to shut them down.
What I look for in a UPS:
•something that will give me about 10 minutes of runtime power if things go completely dark - I've got 5 systems to get to and shut down, remember.
•AVR (automatic voltage regulation) - some companies call it one thing, some call it something else. APC, Belkin and Tripp Lite all use that term. But it is that power 'smoothing' ability, that is definitely a good thing for your computer, power outage or not.
• 'smart' software/connection so that if the computer is on and I'm not around and the power goes out, the UPS unit can instruct the computer to shut down before the battery runs down.
Someone spoke about monitoring the power to/in your home - some of these units come with that ability, and the software to read the unit's log to see how things have been going. They typically report line voltage and even frequency.
It's not unusual, especially in the summer months, for line voltage to drop significantly at certain times of the day, like around 5 or 6 p.m. when everyone returns from work and turns that thermostat down a notch or two to cool the house down a bit - AND turn on the TV to listen to the 6 o'clock news AND fire up the stove to cook supper. These low voltage times can have strange effects on computers.
Tale I often tell: back in the early 80's I was going to programming school at Keesler AFB in Biloxi, Mississippi. I had taken my TRS-80 Model I computer with me and had it set up in the 3-story dormitory I lived in during that 6-month, 8-5 school. In the evenings I'd sometimes come to the room, turn the computer on, and the video was unstable (monochrome-light green on dark green). The characters on the screen would kind of float around in a figure 8 pattern. Drove me nuts! I sent the monitor in for warranty repair twice and was told both times that nothing was wrong with it. Finally, I grabbed a voltage monitor that would work on wall sockets and checked the voltage in my room. Usually it was up around the needed 110-117 volts. But at the end of the school day, it would drop as low as 103-105 volts. And that's when the monitor became unstable. Everyone turning on stereos, TVs, demanding more cooling all went to drop the available voltage in the building. That was all before UPS's were reasonably priced, I just learned to live with it at the time.
While lightening stikes are a concern, more so in some parts of the country than others, as far as I'm concerned they are not the primary reason to have a UPS in place. It's those power fluctuations that the APC site speaks about in the other two links in that post that I'm looking for protection from. If it were lightening strikes only that were my concern, I'd just stick with good surge suppressors and hope the lightening strike isn't right next door  .
As far as deciding what to connect to which UPS, I generally adhere to a 'one computer, one UPS' policy.
•Each computer has its own UPS, that makes sure that each gets maximum benefit of the battery when power does go out.
•Only things usually connected to the UPS sockets are the CPU and the monitor (got to keep the CPU running, and need the monitor to see the screen to shut down smoothly).
•Peripherals such as external disk drives also get a hookup to the UPS side of the unit.
•Peripherals like printers and powered speakers only get connected to the sockets with surge suppression only - NOT the UPS side.
In a setup with a network, to maintain communication across the network/LAN, the router or switch needs a UPS also. Since I can control all of my computers from either of two machines, I can perform shutdown of all from one keyboard as long as they can still communicate with one another. That means the router/switch needs backup power also. In my setup, as I said, I have one small UPS unit that my cable modem, my 10/100 router (connected between the modem and my gigabit switch), and my gigabit switch all share. They don't draw much power, so even though it's small, it's big enough for those three items.
Edit: SAFETY NOTE Do not 'daisy chain' UPS units hoping to get more time out of them. It doesn't work that way, and the UPS makers all warn against it. Basically you can cause one of the units to overheat and that can cause the battery to explode. Not something you want to mess with at all. One piece of equipment or group (CPU/Monitor) connected to ONE UPS at a time, please.
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nfixit2004
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A UPS IS Your best defense!
without spending an arm and a leg | |
ctceo
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| reply to whocares
As everyone has stated before, a direct lightning strike is going to wipe out your surge protector, and anything connected to it.
Your best bet (if your going all out) is to make sure that you have a few lightning arrestors outside your home if possible connected as directly to the ground as possible with a good as thick as you can get it copper wire, and ground rod. Keep all your precious equipment indoors connected to line conditioners, and purchase UPS' for your pc's and network equipment. If you have the cash don't skimp. Cheap surge Protectors will protect you up to the 75-100 joule rating (often less), and a transient lightning strike that hits a phone, cable, and/or power line nearby can start at upward of 1000 joules or more. Some line conditioners in the $350 and up price range can protect against 2000 joule strikes, often at the cost of their very own lifespan. If you consider those worth while investments.
The Wikipedia has some very cool information about lightning if your interested.
»en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Lightning | |
signmeuptoo
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A lightning arrester can be as small as a medium size pill bottle. The best way to go with them is to get the ones that have an INDEPENDENT ground lead that bonds to a solid core wire that runs straight OUT of the breaker panel RATHER THAN TO the grounding bar in the panel. You will still have connectors for the common and both hot leads.
You can connect two of them in parallel for greater assurance. What our wise mod says about NOT daisy chaining MOV based surge protectors AND UPSs is totally accurate, however, there are other types of UPS/protectors that are not MOV based, and some types CAN BE daisy chanded, IIRC, but the guys in the electronics forum of the whole skinny on that, too, IIRC.
Having a superior sinking to ground deep inside your house structure can be to your disadvantage, you don't want a lighting strike to have its best path to ground being one that goes thruought your home. Think of a surge arrester as a high voltage/high current/high speed clamp, or drawbridge that keeps out the bad guys from getting into your castle. In fact, they are based upon lighting jumping down and through them.
NOTE: I just found something from the NEC that is important, please read:
»www.codebookcity.com/codearticle···e280.htm
So you need to carefully implement the proper grounding. I, sadly, do not have access to the latest NEC book, so I cannot go into it any further. It has been, what, about 3 decades since I did electrical work and things have changed. Suffice it to say that you need a really good ground.
While the average Joe Shmoe *can* install some types of arresters, the grounding part is best left to a pro. Why? Because they will do a soil study or KNOW the soil where you live and as such, know what grounding is best. The type of soil, dryness, and other things dictate the type of grounding.
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signmeuptoo
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Ah, my men, google is indeed our friend. Our heroes at This Old House have some things to say on the topic:
»www.thisoldhouse.com/toh/knowhow···,00.html
Some of it I have said.
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2 edits | reply to whocares
Uninterruptible Power Supply ( UPS ) do you have one - Iggy Uncensored. That article has my thoughts on the subject along with a few links to other opinions. This topic is one of those that can get heated. It is also one where you will see varying degrees of opinion. Not everyone can afford to have their home rewired or invest in a whole protection system. At the very least if you can afford it you should have a high quality UPS device protecting components.
»iggyz.com/blog/_archives/2007/3/···118.html
I'll be adding a link to this thread to that article right now. The unit I recently bought is this one. CyberPower / 8 Outlet / 1500VA / 900Watt / UPS with LCD Status Panel.
Google is not your friend. Who is your friend is someone who will take the time to give you solid honest advice with no BS and spin. I could go on but my point is this. A help forum is a place where people are supposed to get help. Not told to go Google it or spend hours banging their head against a wall in an FAQ. Especially when many people won't even link to the relevant content included within that FAQ.
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Jtmo
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join:2001-05-20
Novato, CA | reply to whocares
Yes, one UPS 500VA for the computer.
A good surge protector for the TV/DVD etc. | |
Time4aNAP
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| reply to whocares
You can never have too much protection.
Even the best and most protection will not make you completely safe.
The above holds true for almost everything, not just power.
The most common component in consumer/retail surge protectors is the metal oxide varistor (MOV). The MOVs that are used have a clamping voltage of 200-300 Volts. (The peak voltage of a 120V RMS sine wave is around 170V.)
These are sacrificial devices--they lose some of their capacity to absorb energy each time they come into play. This means that all MOVs have a limited service life that depends on how much energy they dissipate. One good power hit could end the service life of a brand-new surge protector.
They're also relatively small and light. This means that they're extremely limited in how much energy they can dissipate (convert to heat) during a short period of time. If every MOV on earth was placed in the same spot, a single lightning strike could destroy all of them.
That doesn't mean that MOVs are useless. It just means that they can't provide useful protection against voltages and currents in the "mega" range. They're great for mitigating occasional transients, like when the electric company does capacitor bank switching, or when an electrically noisy vacuum cleaner is being used on the same line. Also, they don't need to be placed between the source and the load to be effective. Because electricity propagates near the speed of light, a surge protector will offer some protection to all outlets on the same circuit. By the same token, it's also susceptible to transients generated by everything on that leg.
One important thing to remember about MOV-only surge protectors is that they need to be replaced on a regular basis. Think about replacing them as often as you're supposed to replace smoke detector batteries.
The next step up is power filters. These are typically simple, reactive LRC circuits designed to attenuate high frequencies. If you have a frequent or continuous source of noise on the line, this is the kind of device that you need. You just need to be sure that the circuit is able to dissipate continuous and transient energy without overheating. LRC filters do need to be placed between the power source and the load in order to be effective. The mass of the copper wire in the inductor (the L in LRC) stands between the load and the source. More mass means more energy can be absorbed at once.
Unlike MOVs, LRC filters are not sacrificial, as long as they are used within their ratings. A lightning strike will destroy them, of course. But as long as the electrical noise on the line is within their voltage rating, they can last for years. Unless it's an antique, an LRC filter device probably contains some MOVs as well. The MOVs compliment the LRC circuit because a MOV reacts much faster, and does a better job of shunting transient voltages to ground than a capacitor (the C in LRC) does. The third letter, "R", stands for resistor. Resistors aren't necessary to build an effective protection device, but it doesn't hurt to have them either. More mass to absorb more energy.
True LRC filter surge protectors are much more rare in retail stores than the cheaper MOV devices are. The Tripp-Lite Isobar power strips (more like boxes) are the most common, and can be found in computer stores. They protect home theater components equally well. In fact, there are Isobar models made just for that purpose. Brick Wall brand devices are the best that I know of that can be plugged into the wall. Beyond that, contractor grade components are designed to be built into a building's power distribution system. A really serious homeowner can have one installed, if they have the money.
When it comes to protection against catastrophic power surges, things like lightning and high-voltage overhead lines falling onto low-voltage lines, you're now well into the domain of contractor grade (professionally designed and installed) equipment. This is NOT a do it yourself thing!
In applications where direct lightning strikes are inevitable, such as radio and TV transmission sites, protection starts with lightning "rods". For the top of an antenna mast, it's usually something more like a big steel ring that's grounded to the mast, which in turn is grounded straight to earth. Some devices consist of many small spikes in various arrangements, that are designed to "rake" the air of static charge. They can't prevent lightning strikes, but they can reduce the intensity of the eventual strike a bit. They also provide a big target, so the lightning is less likely to jump to a radiator. Nevertheless, lightning can and does reach the radiating elements of antennae. There are many methods used to protect them (for one, they weigh tons), but the device that's relevant to this topic is the gas discharge tube.
The gas discharge tube picks up where the capacitor and MOV can't go. These devices are normally an open circuit, and are placed between an earth ground and the protected line. That line might carry utility power, or RF signals, or even POTS. When a voltage capable of ionizing the gas inside the tube occurs, the ionized gas becomes an electrical conductor, shunting energy to earth. GDTs aren't exactly cheap, but they are more affordable to have installed than LRC devices if your home is fed by overhead lines, has a rooftop antenna, etc.
Unless your UPS costs in excess of $1000, it's most likely the "standby" type. The other type, "online", has its inverter running 100% of the time, and is isolated from mains power by transformers and other components. Because they must run constantly, and therefore usually must produce a pure sine wave, the inverters in these devices are much more costly than those that need only run for a few minutes. Similarly, the power supply must also be beefed up, because it has to keep the battery charged and pass full power at the same time. The far more common standby UPS connects its load directly to the line during normal operation.
The kind that you're likely to have at home has only nominal protection features for normal operation. And because surge protectors can damage the inverter, you can't plug any into the UPS. That means that your UPS needs to be protected just like everything else. Otherwise it will fail when you need it most. There are exceptions, of course. But as a rule of thumb, if it cost less than $1000, came with a standard 15A NEMA plug and didn't arrive on a pallet, it's probably not very effective power protection.
Those with automatic voltage regulation (AVR) use an inexpensive buck/boost circuit that's fine for devices like computers, which have switching power supplies. (Contrary to popular belief, computers aren't very picky about the quality or voltage of power that that they get.) If you want to have voltage regulation for your home theater system, you need something other than a UPS. I've been using Furman Sound AC voltage regulators for 15 years, and recommend them highly. However they start at $500, which can put some people off. APC offers a new line of ACVRs that aren't quite as good as the Furman products, but are quite nice for the price, starting under $200.
As a veteran of the touring sound, broadcast and information systems industries, with 30 years under my belt, I've come to employ certain methods at home that are based on what I know to work in the most extreme conditions at work. Due to the transient nature of my jobs (no pun intended), I've been a renter, so I haven't installed the permanent, high protection devices that I've mentioned above. OTOH my experience with touring systems and semi-permanent on-location TV shoots has let me stretch what I can do with portable equipment.
The first thing that I do is find out which leg each circuit in my home is on. Residential power drops come from a center-tapped transformer, delivering 110-120VAC between the tap and each end, or "leg", and 220-240VAC between legs. The third conductor is called the "neutral", which is a dangerous assumption. The 220-240V circuit is a balanced line that is the same regardless of load. However the legs connected to the center tap can "pull" the neutral line's potential away from zero ground when more load is on either leg. Because there is some resistance in all home wiring, it's possible for there to be a substantial difference between neutral and ground at the outlet. The neutral is earth grounded at the service entrance. (It's the resistance that makes a voltage differential possible.) It's this unbalance that causes phantom buzzing in audio equipment.
Whenever I can, I rearrange the circuits at the breaker panel to put large appliances and other loads in as much balance as possible. I then use one leg for my analog equipment, and the other for computer stuff. When possible, I use two dedicated circuits. I make sure that other wall outlets on these circuits are only used for small loads.
From the wall each feed starts off with matching heavy duty LRC filters. From there, power is distributed by standard Isobars and sometimes purpose-built power cables for longer runs. My stereo is fed by a Furman AR-117 (soon to be upgraded), and my video equipment (I'm old school, no home theater for me) through a new APC H15, which I'm evaluating. A Furman PM-8DM provides extra outlets, and output voltage monitoring. The AR-117 has a bar graph display for input voltage, and the H15 shows both through a small LCD display that can't be read across the room.
Voltage regulation for my computer network comes through a modified Tripp-Lite LCR-2400, which feeds an APC SmartUPS 1400R and a pair of SmartUPS 1000 UPS boxes. My DSL and VoIP/cordless phone system has a dedicated BackUPS Pro 1100 UPS for extended runtime. That's it. The LCR-2400 obviates the need for the line interactive UPS boxes to use up precious battery power during brownouts.
My TiVo® boxes have their own APC BackUPS Pro 650 to keep them ready during brief outages. The 650 plugs into a dedicated "computer" plug on the H15.
My audio equipment is interconnected using shielded, balanced line cables, and fiber to the computers to guarantee isolation. I have a single cable connection that can be quickly disconnected prior to thunderstorms. The cable isn't likely to be struck by lightning, but the 20' vertical run can theoretically generate a couple hundred volts from the magnetic component of a nearby lightning strike.
For other electronics in the house, I balance the need for protection with the cost of the components. I have a $50 Isobar for my $150 TV/VCR combo in the bedroom mostly because I have spare Isobars. If the GFCI socket doesn't protect my $60 microwave, so what?
I guess I've rambled long enough. Hope this helps. | |
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1 edit | reply to IGGY
Time4, that was beautiful, what a huge contribution! I have learned something.
So you say that the quality of the AC signal isn't so critical with computer switching power supplies? Ah, well, I know when I get sags my system keeps going thanks to the hold up time if I understand it correctly.
But wouldn't more instantaneous/sudden changes be a greater problem?
Also, so you are saying that metal oxide varistor based bars should be thrown away every year and get a new one? Dag, I thought I could get about 3 years out of one, but since you have to change batteries in a smoke detector every, oh, 12 months, well...
Now:
ziggy, if you will notice, I didn't say "google is your friend" because no one likes to be told that, so please lay off. What I said was "google is OUR friend" implying that once again I found some information useful from google, giving google the nod, showing that google helped me with a "question".
That you choose to misconstrue this as an implied insult is incorrect and unfair. Especially when you consider who you are talking to. I haven't seen much here of you of late, but I have been in here and been trying to help as much as I can in my own humble way. I am not as versed or knowledgeable as others, but I don't go around telling them to google it.
Sure, you are an MVM but that doesn't give you the right to scold me when it is for something I haven't done.
You accuse me of telling him to google but did you take the time to read all of my lengthy posts? Kindly, well...
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