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scott_urman

join:2002-07-18
San Mateo, CA

Sealing 1 1/2 inch gap at bottom of door

We just finished pulling up the carpet and refinishing the underlying oak floor (yay) in our downstairs hall, but now there is a 1 1/2 inch gap between the bottom of the door to the garage and the new floor. There is no threshold there currently (and we'd rather not put one in if possible). I've looked for door bottoms and sweeps, but none seem to cover that much of a gap. Do you know of a good product or suggestion to seal this opening? Thanks.


RevMortis
I Hear Dead Silicon
Premium
join:2005-05-10
Saint Paul, MN
I know nothing about CA building code, but building/fire Code here in MN requires that if the Garage is attached or part of the house (ie: a tuck-under), then all walls and doors that are between the 2 areas must meet a certain fire resistance. Having a gap that large would certainly reduce your fire resistance.

Therefore, just "filling" the gap may not be enough to bring you up to fire code. You may have to replace the door. Check with your local municipality.


HRM
God Bless America
Premium,MVM
join:2002-02-03
Darien, CT
kudos:1
reply to scott_urman
I bought a 1 1/2 inch industrial door sweep that I am very happy with. It was much more expensive but looks and behaves brand new after 2 years. I think it also helped with heating/cooling.

If you can't find it at one store, try another. It is grey and perhaps not the most beautiful, but I am not concerned and it looks very stout so the color isn't that big a deal.


Ken
Premium,MVM
join:2003-06-16
Markle, IN

1 edit

1 recommendation

reply to scott_urman
I have ran into that same problem a couple times. If the door is a prehung unit then I would remove the trim and pull the door out. Cut 1.5" off the bottom of the door jamb on each side and reinstall the door closer to the floor. Leave a little space though. Fill the gap over the door with a 2x4" and reinstall the trim. You will end up having to make a small patch with the drywall along the top of the door because the old trim won't quite cover the gap. Or you can throw the old trim out and buy new wider trim that will cover the gap.

Edit: When I say pull the door out I am referring to the entire door unit which is the door and jambs.


asdsfdsgf

@cox.net
reply to scott_urman
Look into something called a "door shoe"

eakes

join:2000-10-20
Richardson, TX

1 recommendation

reply to scott_urman
Determine how much filler your need (1 inch, 1-1/4 inch etc). Get a piece of wood the thickness of the door (2x4 maybe?) and rip a piece the width of the required filler. Take the door out of the frame and glue and screw the filler piece to the bottom of the door. Fill the seam between the filler and door, sand smooth and repaint. You could also add a kick-plate on each side of the door to help hide the joint.


mityfowl
Premium
join:2000-11-06
Dallas, TX
reply to scott_urman
Why don't you buy a little aluminum threshold at HD and mount it under the door. Comes in different thicknesses. Add a small sweep to make it snug.

I had to do that after installing tile in family room going to garage. You don't even notice it (anymore).


Keith
Why Ask Than?
Premium
join:2002-10-28
Fort Erie, ON
reply to scott_urman
Might cost a bit but no one said it yet a new door


PeeWee
Premium
join:2001-10-21
Madera, CA

1 edit
reply to scott_urman
At the link below see if the item #56V suits your purpose.

»www.buyweatherstriponline.com/Pe···odfhJqbQ

Is it possible to see the transition of the floor from interior to garage (picture?). If the door opens inwardly (most likely) you would need at least a small threshold for any seal to work. Otherwise the sweep you install would be in contact with the floor causing it not to work properly.
--
My grandkids ARE cuter than yours!


cdru
Go Colts
Premium,MVM
join:2003-05-14
Fort Wayne, IN
kudos:7
reply to eakes
said by eakes:

Determine how much filler your need (1 inch, 1-1/4 inch etc). Get a piece of wood the thickness of the door (2x4 maybe?) and rip a piece the width of the required filler. Take the door out of the frame and glue and screw the filler piece to the bottom of the door. Fill the seam between the filler and door, sand smooth and repaint. You could also add a kick-plate on each side of the door to help hide the joint.
This presumes the door is painted. If it's a wood door that's stained, then it's going to look funny no matter how hard you try to match up the wood and stain. However, you can probably hide a great portion of it by getting a kick plate that matches the decor. Then you only have to worry about a real narrow strip on the left and right matching up. If you get it close enough, it shouldn't be too noticeable.

My suggestion was going to be to take off the hinges and remount them 1.5 inches higher. The bottom of the door will be just right. You'll need to move the strike plate too but that should be about it.


PeeWee
Premium
join:2001-10-21
Madera, CA
??? Moving the gap to the top of the door and leaving what kind of patch over the previous hinge mortise???
--
My grandkids ARE cuter than yours!

eakes

join:2000-10-20
Richardson, TX
reply to scott_urman
True. If the door is stained and finished then the patch I suggest would be more difficult. But, this is a door between the house and garage. I have never seen a 'finished' door in that location.

Moving the gap from the bottom to the top of the door would be more objectionable to me than leaving the gap at the bottom.

The easiest solution would probably be to add a door sill/threshold piece to cover most of the gap - although this was not a solution the OP was looking for.

Another possibility would be to add a 'door extender' to the bottom of the door. This is a u-shaped piece of metal (flat, squared off u) that is slipped over the bottom of the door, adjusted to fill the space and screwed in place. These normally come with storm doors to insure the door fits the opening.


Coma
Thanks Steve
Premium
join:2001-12-30
NirvanaLand
reply to scott_urman
Would something like this work only bigger ?

--
. . . I want to be a vegetable when I grow up . . .


cdru
Go Colts
Premium,MVM
join:2003-05-14
Fort Wayne, IN
kudos:7
reply to PeeWee
said by PeeWee:

??? Moving the gap to the top of the door and leaving what kind of patch over the previous hinge mortise???
said by eakes:

Moving the gap from the bottom to the top of the door would be more objectionable to me than leaving the gap at the bottom.
Apparently my <sarcasm></sarcasm> and <humor></humor> tags were stripped off of my original post.


KoolMoe
Aw Man
Premium
join:2001-02-14
Annapolis, MD
Reviews:
·Verizon FiOS
reply to Coma
We have one at our place (the thing Coma links to), not sure where it came from or the brand. It works ok but gets caught up or snagged on occasion. Kinda lame, but probably cheap.

I'd get a wood threshold, even though the OP said he'd rather not. I cut one for a door that fit snugly at the base of the door frame - a little caulk underneath to help it stick and let the cuts hold it in place. Worked fine.
KM

scott_urman

join:2002-07-18
San Mateo, CA

1 recommendation

reply to scott_urman
After another trip to the Depot and a design discussion with my wife we've decided to go with an oak threshold that will match the floor, combined with eakes See Profile suggestion of putting some filler on the bottom of the door, and covering most if not all of the filler with a new door shoe. That way the show should work properly since it won't be touching the floor when the door is open, but still seal with the threshold. And the door is painted, so any touch up should be straightforward. Thanks for the advice!