Dest
Bolo
Premium
join:2000-03-21
Naperville, IL
clubs: |  Birds pix question
For those of you taking pix of birds, especially small one, do you guys use monopod or tripod with a grip head? I just can't seem to get the pix as sharp as you guys even with Image stabilization and fast shutter speed(@ or faster than 1/EFL) |
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SandShark
So it goes
Premium,MVM
join:2000-05-23
Santa Fe, TX
clubs:
 ·Verizon Online DSL
| Do you have an example you could post? Do you shoot JPEG or RAW? If JPEG, what settings are you using as far as in-camera processing? Are you using any in-camera noise reduction? If RAW, what RAW conversion software are you using. What is your workflow? Have you checked with any Olympus specific forums for hints and tips?
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Dest
Bolo
Premium
join:2000-03-21
Naperville, IL
clubs:
edit:
May 11th, @01:42AM
| reply to Dest
OLYMPUS E-510
300mm 1/125th F8 ISO1600
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OLYMPUS E-510
239mm 1/640th F8 ISO800
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Photoshop CS3 + Neatimage, automatch profile with auto finetune, default to about 55% noise removal
unsharpmask 5-10pixel @ about 25%.
just recently experimenting with opening up image after above steps with ACR to punch up the photo.
comparison, another poster pix of a robin
»/showpic/dimag···5109&p=2
vs mine, these 2 are the best out of a bunch too blurry that I tossed out
taken handheld with the E510 inbody Image stabilization using the Olympus Zuiko 70-300 F4-5.6 lens, since it is a budget lens I don't expect it to be super sharp, but you can see so much more details in the other posters pix.
and mine are resized version, the 100% crop 1 would be way too blurry for posting |
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Dest
Bolo
Premium
join:2000-03-21
Naperville, IL
clubs:
| reply to Dest
OLYMPUS E-510
239mm 1/640th F8 ISO800
|
and this is the sharpest of the bunch, most of the other are somewhat blurry in this actual size view |
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Pistolpete
Why is every day a C.R.A.F.T .day
Premium
join:2006-03-06
40,000 Holes
·Fast.co.uk
| reply to Dest
I know how you feel,I have canon lenses with image stabilization and I too get oof images.Most of my "good ones" I am either lying down supporting camera with both arms flat on the ground,or if standing, leaning against a tree,fence etc or have lens resting on something.I am afraid we all can't be like rdavs,rock steady without any support. |
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Willy
Premium
join:2000-09-24
 ·Optimum Online
edit:
May 11th, @10:31AM
| reply to Dest
Obviously the best is a sharp image but if you need to sharpen it in PS the first sharpening tool you should be using is "Smart Sharpen|Remove: Motion Blur".
Zoom in on some fine in focus detail of the original uncompressed or unaltered JPG image. A feather, leaf edge, the tip of the birds beak, whatever.
You should be a be to detect where that fine edge should be, the number of pixels it's out of focus, and the direction of the blur although it's tough on a shot like this.
Probably a good idea to convert the layer to a Smart Object before you can apply the layer so you can go back and fine tune it if needed. |
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SandShark
So it goes
Premium,MVM
join:2000-05-23
Santa Fe, TX
clubs:
·Verizon Online DSL
| reply to Dest
The first image isn't bad. Even at that resolution, I could bring out some sharpness and detail in PS using a couple of different sharpening techniques. Even with image stabilization, hand-holding at 300mm with a 1/125th shutter speed is asking a bit much if you ask me, but I know some others might disagree. Using a tripod certainly can't hurt. Remember, most will recommend sharpening as the last step of your image processing workflow, with most of your other adjustments done in ACR first, before doing adjustments in Photoshop. One sharpening method I've used with success is by converting the image to LAB mode, selecting the luminosity channel, sharpening and converting back to RGB mode. There are a number of other sharpening methods, too.
If you don't mind, could you post an unprocessed high resolution JPEG or TIFF of one of those images? I would like to process one of them and, perhaps, a few others can do their processing and see if we can improve the results.
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Dest
Bolo
Premium
join:2000-03-21
Naperville, IL
clubs:
| 
OLYMPUS E-510
202mm 1/800th F5 ISO800
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OLYMPUS E-510
300mm 1/2500th F5.6 ISO800
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ie the rabbit's fur or the head of the robin(where I was focusing) |
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SueS
Premium
join:2007-05-16
Macon, MO
·Chariton Valley
| I shoot handheld, with as fast a shutter I can get. I also use image stabilized lens. The shutter should be sufficient in your last two photos you posted.
Do you run them through noise removal software before you do any post processing? This helps me when shooting high ISO. |
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grobinette
Premium,MVM
join:2001-01-27
Springfield, VA
clubs:
 ·Verizon FIOS
| reply to Dest
I use a method like that of shooting a rifle. Aim, focus, take a breath, exhale and then shoot. Practice it enough so that it becomes second nature and it will help you out. You will hit that split second when your body is still and minimize any camera shake on your part.
The other is to get some strength in your arms, especially your forearm. Don't take that wrong if you are a body builder but it has helped me to hold a long lens steady.
Any movement you make will be exaggerated tremendously with a telephoto lens and when you are holding almost 10lbs of camera and lens some upper body/arm strength is a plus. It may not seem like much weight but it doesn't take much shake to show up.
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Dest
Bolo
Premium
join:2000-03-21
Naperville, IL
clubs: | hmm i ususally inhale hold breath and shoot, the exhale thing always make me seem out of breath especially if i have to wait a little before shooting(maybe due to the bird moving) |
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grobinette
Premium,MVM
join:2001-01-27
Springfield, VA
clubs: | Which ever method works best. I like a slow exhale because I think you have more tension when you inhale and are holding your breath.
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rusdi
American V
Premium,MVM
join:2001-04-28
Flippin, AR
clubs:
| reply to Dest
Something I've recently found, that might be helpful. Try an F-STOP or two higher, (smaller aperture to increase DOF), and perhaps a step higher sensitivity ISO.
Compensate, as necessary to get the exposure right. If the subject is motionless, no need for fast shutter speed, right? 
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Come fold for a cure with us. |
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Dest
Bolo
Premium
join:2000-03-21
Naperville, IL
clubs:
| except for my shaky hand... but I'll try to see if that help the incrase DOF will help with getter sharper image
was testing just now and it seem that at 300mm 600EFL, my shaky hand seems to be more than the inbody IS can compensate. Cs in live view with IS, i can see the image jumping vs moving slowly/smoothly. Seems 250/500EFL is about the most the IS can compensate for me. |
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rusdi
American V
Premium,MVM
join:2001-04-28
Flippin, AR
clubs:
| You're right..of course! The "shaky hand" @ loooong zoom is always a challenge!
I quit relying on IS, as I'm convinced it can only correct for very minor "shake".
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Jodokast96
R.I.P Bassman442
Premium
join:2005-11-23
Erial, NJ | reply to Dest
I second stopping down a bit more. Until you can post some similar shots from a tripod, I wonder if the lens just really isn't that sharp wide open. |
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Rufus T Firefly
There's No Such Thing As A Sanity Clause
join:2001-04-25
Marshfield, MA
| reply to Dest
said by Dest  :Snip... Cs in live view with IS, i can see the image jumping vs moving slowly/smoothly. Seems 250/500EFL is about the most the IS can compensate for me. If you're seeing that in live view that means you're holding the camera away from your face adding to the instability. Use the viewfinder. With the camera against your face you will gain more stability.
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"A man is only as old as the woman he feels."
-Groucho Marx |
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Dest
Bolo
Premium
join:2000-03-21
Naperville, IL
clubs:
edit:
May 11th, @03:39PM
| reply to Jodokast96
I will try to get some tripod shot, but most of these are sort of me deciding to take a pix on the spot/moment vs me sitting and lurking for a shot with a tripod.
with the 4/3rd system of olympus, most agree that F5.6/F8 is the sharpest aperture though. any larger than that and diffraction limit would supposedly set in |
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Dest
Bolo
Premium
join:2000-03-21
Naperville, IL
clubs:
| reply to Rufus T Firefly
actually that was with me holding it to my face as much as possible like through the view finder, only with me peeking down at the LCD to check for jumpiness. draw back of inbody IS is that you can't see the effect of IS through the viewfinder like the in lens IS  |
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rusdi
American V
Premium,MVM
join:2001-04-28
Flippin, AR
clubs:
| reply to Dest
said by Dest :....with the 4/3rd system of olympus, most agree that F5.6/F8 is the sharpest aperture though. any larger than that and diffraction limit would supposedly set in I respectfully disagree!
I don't care which camera make/model, when the subject is shot @ a higher aperture,(smaller lens opening), the sharper,and more DOF. Excluding subject motion.
Exception for moving objects, this is pretty much a academic conclusion.
If you CAN select a higher F-STOP, and can somehow stabilize your end, I would expect much sharper results.
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