Automotive → [Tech] 1992 Olds 88 Royale Problems

I have a '92 Olds 88 Royale (3.8L V6) that I use as a work vehicle (~40 miles round trip highway). It runs great, gets around 21 MPG, and has given me no serious problems.

Lately, though, it's exhibited some minor, annoying issues that I can live with, but I thought if the fixes were simple enough without tearing into anything or replacing expensive components, they might be worth addressing. So, here goes.

The first issue is the intermittent wipers, which I no longer have. It's either continuous low or continuous high. When I set them on intermittent, they do nothing.

The second issue is the cruise control. When cruise control is engaged, it'll do fine sometimes with no problems at all. Other times, which are getting more frequent, it will cruise and then suddenly lose cruise altogether or it will do a kind of on-and-off, on-and-off action and quit working. Once it starts acting up, no matter what I do, it will not fix itself. The next morning, it'll be fine again, then on the way home, it'll act up or vice versa.

Of course, the common denominator is both controls are in the turn signal handle. I appreciate any help you can offer. Thanks!

As far as the wipers go what happens if you use the "mist" option, or the windshield washers" The mist option is when you rotate the pulse, on off switch in the opposite direction. The mist and washers use the same circuit as the pulse ( intermittent) wiper circuit. Have you tried adjusting the pulse delay switch?

The problem with the wipers could be the switch, wiring, or the wiper motor module.

Does your vehicle have a cruise indicator on the dash? If so does it go out when it quits?
There are only a few things related to the cruise control.
The switch, cruise control servo, brake switch, and the P.C.M. (powertrain control module).

Are you going to do the testing and possible repairs yourself? If so I can send you some information that may help you out.
The next time the cruise control starts to cut out try (if safe to do so) use your foot to pull up on the brake pedal. The brake switch has multiple switches with in it to control the brake lights, torque converter lock up, shift interlock and cruise control. The cruise control switch may be just making enough contact to disengage the cruise control but not affect anything else. Generally it will disengage it completely until you re-set it so that may be a long shot. The other possible cause would be the cruise control servo. There is a vacuum switch that is pulse width modulated to control the amount of vacuum to maintain the set speed. If the valve does not close off when pulsed vacuum will drop and cruise will quit. There are a couple test that can be done to test it but needs a vacuum gauge and a vacuum pump.

I am leaning towards the cruise control servo or the P.C.M. as other problems like intermittent bad connections with the switch would generally cause the cruise to quite until you manual re-set it and not come back on its own.

Thanks for responding. I'll do my best to answer the questions you've asked.

In the mist mode, it works fine. I'm not sure I understand what is meant by adjusting the pulse switch delay. When I put it in the delay mode, the wiper does not function at all.

No, there is no cruise control indicator on the dash. I'll definitely try pulling up on the brake pedal. I didn't think of that. Even if it is a long shot, that's a great suggestion. Thanks.

The vacuum issue sounds very plausible because it does "sputter" somewhat when it acts up. I have a vacuum pump that I use in my job (HVAC/R), but I don't have a vacuum gauge, other than my gauges.

I'll give the brake test a try tomorrow. Again, thanks for the information.

What I meant by adjusting the pulse switch delay is, You can adjust the delay of the wipers anywhere from 2-25 seconds. The delay time is adjusted between the off mode and low mode with the wiper switch. I just answered the question for you. In order to turn the wipers to low you need to adjust the delay time through its entire range. The switch has a rheostat built into it to tell the module how long the delay is between wipes.try turning the switch one click to the on position and slowly rotate it towards the low position but not all the way to low. See if the wipers come on at all anywhere within that spot. I would also try turning it back and forth between off and low somewhat quickly and see what happens. It's possible the rheostat is dirty and turning it back and forth could clean it up a bit.
Other tests will need a volt meter and some wiring diagrams. I can help with the diagrams if you want to get into the more detailed diag. portion of it.You would need a hand pump and a gauge that is somewhat accurate at about 10-15" and be able to see about a 3-5" drop. An electric vacuum pump may work if it will hold vacuum when it is shut off and you can find a way to adapt it (air tight) to a small rubber hose. I am sure your gauges will measure vacuum but you would need a way to attach both (vacuum pump and gauge) to a single small vacuum line at the same time so you can pull a vacuum and read it at the same time.Let me know.

FYI, the common denominator is only the control surfaces. The cruise control switches are within the wiper/turn signal handle The wiper/washer switches are within the steering column and the cruise/wiper/turn signal lever presses into the wiper switch.

Again, thanks for sticking with me. I appreciate it.

I did try adjusting the delay of the wipers by rotating the wiper delay many times and waiting between adjustments. I turned it back and forth between mist and high many times to see if the rheostat would make up and no go.

I can do the wiring diagrams and I can check relays and switches, so that shouldn't be a problem for me. I do have volt meters.

By your last statements, I take it to mean the problems are not necessarily located in the turn signal/cruise control/wiper lever? In other words, replacing the lever wouldn't solve the issues? Is so, I didn't think it was going to be that easy.

By what you describe, I am leaning heavily toward the windshield wiper control board as being the trouble there. Quite common in that era. It is sold as a unit with the washer pump if memory serves me correctly.

As TheHarvester noted, the cruise system tests really depend on a vacuum gauge and voltmeter to pinpoint the problem. I can tell you the common failure there is the servo unit itself which also houses the cruise electronic control module.

To replace the wiper switch the steering wheel needs to come off as well as a few other items. one which requires a special tool. Well it could be done without the tool but it is a royal pain in the ass, not to mention you need another special tool for pulling the steering wheel.

To replace the cruise control switch it may be possible to replace it without removing the steering wheel with a little finesse and some string. Its been so long since I replaced one I can not be sure though. I doubt it is the problem though. I think the vacuum switch in the module is going to be the problem. If you want to look into testing it I can send some info for you via E-mail. I can also send the info for the wipers. Send me a P.M. with e-mail address and I will send what I can.

The likely culprit for the wipers would be the delay module. Common area of failure.

I'm trying to remember what the cruise control issue usually was...

Matt's on to it. Cruise servo. If it would never work, I'd say it was the cruise switch, but cutting in and out fingers the servo, absent of wiring issues.

I doubt it needs a switch, but yes you are right it can be done without special tools.

The switch lever pulls out of the column, and connected to it will be a thin sheathed cable that has the cruise switch wires in it. Just cut off the wires at the switch lever, tie the end hanging out of the column to the end of the new switch cable right at the connector with some tape-- (securely!) and after unhooking the old cable from the connector at the base of the steering column, you can just feed the new cable down while pulling it gently with the old cable.

The connector at the base of the column is near the edge of the trim panel. It's a skinny white plug with a notch on one side that plugs into a black connector. Easy to spot.