Home Improvement → Can you tap a light switch or light fixture for power?

Ok, so I put my networking stuff in a closet. Bad planning on my part, I realized after the fact, that the closet has no power for my switch and modem.

The closet has

1. Light switch
1. Light fixture.

Could I tap one of these for power, and it still be safe? For example, using one of those plug in devices that screws into the fixture and allows you to tap a light fixture for power? Something like this, only with a place to screw in a bulb:

»www.apartmenttherapy.com ··· pter.jpg

Or could I tap into the light switch for power some how?

i would think you would want a real outlet for the simple fact that if you use the screw in adapter the switch must be on. someone cuts it off and everything dies.

where you tap for power depends on where the power comes from. you will either have the feed from teh panel at the switch or at the light. see where it comes to decide what to do from there. if it comes to the switch first, then you simply put either an outlet beside the switch.

if it goes to the light, then down to teh switch and back, then at the switch you will have only romex cable or a couple wires if it is in conduit.if this is the case you will need to drop a short run to where you want teh outlet.

also, if the light is fed by 14g wire you will only have a 15A circuit. you cannot raise this to 20A without replacing all the wire.

Thanks, yeah, I know that 15a is all you can do if it's only 15amps. Can you actually run an outlet off power going to the switch (I'm not 100% certain, and I may hire an electrican, but if I can do it myself safely, then I will). I'm mainly concerned about not doing the job right.

If you're going to use that screw-in-plug thing, that means no light in the closet. If you're going to do that, put an outlet in the place of the light itself ! You could eliminate the switch while you're at it (or turn it "on" and put a switch cover over it. The type of cover I'm referring to is in the "baby" section of most stores, in the same area you get outlet covers that stop little kids from sticking things in outlets. We had to put one on our furnace 'cause our son, when he was little, kept turning it off (it was 2 to 2-1/2' off the ground where he could reach).

Hopefully whizkid3 can chime in, but I think there's some funky NEC rules regarding a outlet in a closet.

You can purchase a combo single outlet/light switch at Lowes/Home Depot, etc. that fits in a duplex box.

The outlet would be powered all the time and the switch will still control what it was designed to control.

In your situation it should work fine but I usually prefer to avoid powering devices on circuits that feed my lights.

EDIT: yeah, that thing Tschmidt posted a picture of.

If you were located in Quebec the following would apply:To be fully in accordance with this rule (the way I see it) you would have to install a simplex receptacle to which you would connect a power bar installed inside your equipment rack. The equipment rack would then make up the "appliance".

All that to say that you should check your local code before installing a "permanent" receptacle in the closet.

Run a power bar with a heavy duty long power cord from another outlet to your closet.

In some places, outlets are not permitted on a lighting circuit, which may be wired with 14 gauge wire on a 15 amp circuit instead of 12 gauge/20 amp circuit.

Ideally you should have a dedicated circuit for the computer & networking equipment so it will be isolated from voltage fluctuations caused when other things on the same circuit are powered on and off.

You better put some kind of ventilation in the closet too. Even a little bit of equipment will get such a closed space really, really warm.

The screw in thing will only be 2 prongs so the answer is no unless you want to take a chance with voltage spikes. Even if you find 1 with 3 the ground lug will not be connected to anything.

You didn't give enough information is this a single story or a 2 story? does it have vaulted ceilings? Where is the panel box in relation to the closet.

If it was me and had access to the attic area above the closet I would get a new 15amp breaker most boxes have some extra slots, Fish tape a line to the breaker box and hook up the breaker. Then I would find a stud and mount a plug box to the outside of the sheetrock, plaster whatever you have then drill a hole in the ceiling to run the wire outside of the wall and cover it with wall molding conduit. ( it's a plastic type conduit, found at most home depots). I would use interior romex. If you plan adding more equipment bump the breaker to 20amp and run 3 wire 12 romex. If you have flex duct for your heat/air you can splice into the closest duct and step it down to 4" or"6
depending on the size of the closet. Then get the correct vent and install in the ceiling. The best place to get heat/air parts would be the supply house,most places will help you size it right and will have the parts in stock, they can be a little more expensive but that beats chasing some idiot at home depot and get the wrong parts.

It's really easier than it sounds if you have access to the ceiling. As a novice I would plan two weekends for the job. one to measure every thing out and do prep work (drilling holes running wire). most heat/air supply houses are closed on the weekends ( some stay open till noon on sat) so I would do the vent after I was done with electrical.

The only info I could find in the NFPA 70 for 2008 is:

210.12 Arc-Fault Circuit-Interrupter Protection.

(B) Dwelling Units. All 120-volt, single phase, 15- and
20-ampere branch circuits supplying outlets installed in
dwelling unit family rooms, dining rooms, living rooms,
parlors, libraries, dens, bedrooms, sunrooms, recreation
rooms, closets, hallways, or similar rooms or areas shall be
protected by a listed arc-fault circuit interrupter,
combination-type, installed to provide protection of the
branch circuit.

A Branch Circuit is defined as:

Branch Circuit, General-Purpose. A branch circuit that
supplies two or more receptacles or outlets for lighting and
appliances.

So, to meet 2008 Code, you would need either an AFCI outlet or breaker.

Like someone else said, whizkid is the guy with the best answers concerning this.

It's 15 amp all around the house.
The closet is 7 feet tall, 10 feet deep.

I wish I had access to the ceiling. this is a two story house, the closet is under the stairs. So fishing the wire from the top is out of the question.

Funny you should mention that. Almost all of my breakers are like that.

I have been considering that, but the wife .. well the wife trumps me.

Good point.

Yeah, I emailed the permit/code enforcement people .. so far ... no response. The dirty rotten bastards (sorry, I have some issues with them right now.

Thanks Tom! I have two devices to plug in there ... but from what people are saying, it might not be safe running the two devices in a closed area.

Forget all this crap!!! Just get one of these babies, leave the light switch on and use the pull chain to switch the light off and on.

No code questions, no nagging wife, case closed.

EDIT: If you want pigtail wiring instead of screw terminal then get the 9726-C2 instead.

Except for the last 20-30 years naked bulbs are prohibited in closets. Interesting with the prevalence of CFL that is no longer an issue. But does not really count since any Edison based device can be screwed in. Concern is high bulb temperature is a fire hazard due to likelihood of contact with flammable material.

/tom

Sorry, I don't have that rule here to my knowledge.

Does this mean all closets or is it specific to clothes closets? What I mean to say is, if there is no rod to hang clothes on, then it's really just a small room.

Either way, one can just use a clip-on lampshade, no?

NEC 410.8(D)(1) require 12" of clearance from the nearest point of storage horizontally to the nearest edge of the fixture.

I'd be surprised if there was not a similar rule in Canada.

There is not a prohibition per se, but given the size of typical closet distance between light and shelf location requires use of a flush mounted fixture.

/tom

Ok, I'm confused, what does that mean?

Clearance, yes, prohibited bare bulbs, not that I recall.

His closet (mentioned above): "The closet is 7 feet tall, 10 feet deep"

Probably 4 feet wide since it's under the stairs. Looks like (I'm assuming) you should have 12" of clearance quite easily.

Do you have the type of light that I linked to (without the receptacle) in your closet? If yes, you're free to get the fixture I suggested.

If you have no shelves or clothes hanging rods within 12 inches of your light fixture it is permissible that the lamp be a bare bulb and you can replace the fixture with the one I suggested.

This is a good thread... please keep it up.

I'm in a similar situation (sort of) ... our kitchen closet stores our vacuum, brooms, etc. I'd like to install an outlet in there, such that I can charge the Dust Buster.

There are shelves in the back of the closet, but not the front. The outlet would be at least two feet from any shelf.

Access is not an issue; it's directly above the basement so I was going to run a whole new circuit just for this.

Is there a prohibition in the NEC against outlets in closets?

It simply means code requires at least a 12" radius between surface of bulb and storage shelf. The idea is to reduce the change items sitting on a shelf come in contact with hot bulb. Take a ruler, place the 12" mark on the surface of the bulb closest to any shelving. If you have at least 12" rule does not apply.

As Kringle1 posted since this is not a "real" closet but large under stairs space meeting the distance requirement may not be a problem.

Having said that NEC is advisory. The Authority Having Jurisdiction (AHJ) has the ultimate say in what you can and cannot do. Just wait for them to reply to your query.

/tom

At least you have stated the correct truth about the NEC. There are some over at one select DIY forum, that seems to think that the NEC is the Almighty bible, and that you cannot change how things are done.

The biggest argument is the use of GFCI for circuits that have motors on them (ie Washing Machines, Garage Door Openers), due to there is nothing called a Nuisance trip.

As for the original question, the only thing that would stop you from having the outlet placed in a closet, would be local code. As for the 2008 guidelines, the use of ACFI seems to be overrated. With 2011, who knows what the changes will show, and how worst the rules will get.