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howie1
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join:2003-04-08
Antarctica

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howie1

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Vintage Audio - Inside a Kenwood KR-9600 Stereo Receiver

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I recently took my 1977 Kenwood KR-9600 Stereo Receiver out of retirement and today I'm gonna clean her up. I thought some might like to see the inside of one of these 1970's Japanese monsters. It weighs close to 60 pounds and measures 22-27/32" W x 6-21/32" H x 16-17/32" D. The power output is 160 Watts per channel into 8 Ohms (200 Watts per channel into 4 Ohms), minimum RMS with no more than 0.08% THD (hence the huge heatsinks) and in addition, has an excellent (and highly rated) FM tuner section. Today, I plan to blow out the dust and internally clean all the switches and pots. They don't make 'em like this anymore!
howie1

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howie1

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Topless, Bottomless, Handle-less KR-9600
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DEOXIT D5 Cleaner
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Controls and Switches to be Cleaned (Bottom of Unit)
I used some DeoxIT (highly recommended by vintage audio enthusiasts) to clean the controls and switches and all I can say is that this stuff is amazing! All you need to do is spray a short burst into the openings of the controls and switches (a second or so) and then work them fully a few dozen times each. Note that some of the rotary switches and pots are multiples so you'll need to blast each one in the "set". The included nozzle extension (like a skinny straw) makes this an easy task. After I was done and I fired her up, there was not a single "scratchy" or intermittent switch or potentiometer to be found... The dust (not too bad, really) was easily blown away with a can of compressed air. I'm done! All I need to do now is replace the top and bottom covers (40-some screws), re-attach the front handles and clean off a few fingerprints/smudges and I'll be good to go.

Caution: Always unplug your equipment before removing any covers; there are dangerous voltages inside, even if the power switch is off.
I did switch the unit on after cleaning (to check each control) but I didn't go poking around inside with the power on. In addition, never place a component with the bottom cover removed on a conductive surface (such as a metal table).
gallowsroad
join:2004-08-09
Kansas City, KS

gallowsroad

Member

Nice pics.

Once you have it fully cleaned up, you gotta take a few shots of it with the front panel lit up and the room lights off.

howie1
Premium Member
join:2003-04-08
Antarctica

howie1

Premium Member

said by gallowsroad:

Nice pics.

Once you have it fully cleaned up, you gotta take a few shots of it with the front panel lit up and the room lights off.
I will.
howie1

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howie1

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Here are a couple of post-op pictures... Once it's in its final home, I'll take a few more.

jmacd27
Premium Member
join:2001-05-13
Toronto, ON

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jmacd27

Premium Member

Very cool, glad you got it working.

howie1
Premium Member
join:2003-04-08
Antarctica

howie1

Premium Member

said by jmacd27:

Very cool, glad you got it working.
Thanks! The whole project was fun, actually and I learned a bit about the insides of these things. too...

EliteData
EliteData
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join:2003-07-06
Philippines

EliteData to howie1

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to howie1
WD40 works just as well on the contacts and variable controls.
on the plus side, it lubricates them and lasts much longerand prevents corrosion.

ArthurS
Watch Those Blinking Lights
Premium Member
join:2000-10-28
Hamilton, ON

ArthurS

Premium Member

said by EliteData:

WD40 works just as well on the contacts and variable controls.
on the plus side, it lubricates them and lasts much longerand prevents corrosion.
What about the residue left behind by WD40? Personally I prefer a chemical specifically made for the application.

EliteData
EliteData
Premium Member
join:2003-07-06
Philippines

EliteData

Premium Member

said by ArthurS:

said by EliteData:

WD40 works just as well on the contacts and variable controls.
on the plus side, it lubricates them and lasts much longerand prevents corrosion.
What about the residue left behind by WD40? Personally I prefer a chemical specifically made for the application.
applied in small amounts is good for the contacts, obviously after cleaning them if they are severely corroded.

ArthurS
Watch Those Blinking Lights
Premium Member
join:2000-10-28
Hamilton, ON

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ArthurS

Premium Member

said by EliteData:

said by ArthurS:

said by EliteData:

WD40 works just as well on the contacts and variable controls.
on the plus side, it lubricates them and lasts much longerand prevents corrosion.
What about the residue left behind by WD40? Personally I prefer a chemical specifically made for the application.
applied in small amounts is good for the contacts, obviously after cleaning them if they are severely corroded.
Based on my personal experience rebuilding countless (read thousands) faders and switches on professional audio consoles, I have seen a lot of consoles that have been cleaned using WD40 and similar by people who don't know any better. The problem is that the oily residue attracts dust like a magnet, the resulting in a sticky blob of crap that makes the situation a lot worse over the long term, often requiring complete replacement of the component. Save the WD40 for door hinges, use a professional grade silicone based cleaner/lubricant for electronic switches and potentiometers. This one has worked well for me. Do it once, do it right.

EliteData
EliteData
Premium Member
join:2003-07-06
Philippines

EliteData

Premium Member

said by ArthurS:

Based on my personal experience rebuilding countless (read thousands) faders and switches on professional audio consoles, I have seen a lot of consoles that have been cleaned using WD40 and similar by people who don't know any better. The problem is that the oily residue attracts dust like a magnet, the resulting in a sticky blob of crap that makes the situation a lot worse over the long term, often requiring complete replacement of the component. Save the WD40 for door hinges, use a professional grade silicone based cleaner/lubricant for electronic switches and potentiometers. This one has worked well for me. Do it once, do it right.
well, ive got quite a few vintage systems and i have never had any problem with any of the controls after proceeding with the method i perform described below.
but then, it could also be that i actually removed and desoldered the controls, disassembled them, cleaned them, applied wd40 to a q-tip and then to the copper contacts and steel ball bearing in switches, steel ball bearings and carbon area on variables and any other mechanical switch that typically uses grease that tends to turn into a thick dried up mash over a period of years, hence the turning of knobs and the flipping of switches being tough.
i suppose i might be one of the few to go this far in "rebuilding" a variable control or mechanical switch that a suitable replacement is pratically not available for.
sorry i did not point this out as i merely assumed that someone would get what i was talking about.
i have also removed the front metal plates and knobs and used "simple green" on q-tips and tissue paper to clean any stains from use or air pollution such a cigarette nicotine.
i have rebuilt many of these vintage systems i have seen thrown away in the garbage.
as far as the wood covers being severely damaged, sanding the area, filling it and applying film veneer seems to work for me.

ArthurS
Watch Those Blinking Lights
Premium Member
join:2000-10-28
Hamilton, ON

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ArthurS

Premium Member

I would think if WD40 used very sparingly on disassembled components as you described, could possibly work, but for all the trouble you're going through to restore vintage components, why not spend an extra $10 and get a silicone based cleaner/lubricant that is better suited for the application? Pretty much any electronics supplier sells the stuff.

The problem I often encounter is less experienced individuals who, without disassembling the components, stick the "straw" into a hole leading inside the component and give it a little "squirt" of WD40! I've restored some wonderful consoles where I've had to replace $100 faders because of someone's reckless abandon in the past with a WD40 spray can. Multiply that by 56 and that can of silicon cleaner/lubricant becomes really cheap!

howie1
Premium Member
join:2003-04-08
Antarctica

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howie1

Premium Member

If WD-40 works for you, that's great! I used DeoxIT because it's easily the hands-down winner for this type of product in almost all (if not all) the vintage audio forums and so far, it's made my 30 year old pots and switches perform like new and that's no exaggeration. There were a few controls that were "scratchy" or didn't work at all. The DeoxIT treatment worked like a miracle for me and I'm sold on the stuff... I even used it last night on the corroded battery contacts (the batteries leaked) of an old LaserDisc remote control. You wouldn't even know there was any corrosion to begin with. I also use WD-40 on a lot of stuff (car, garden equipment, locks, etc.) and it's a great, all-purpose lubricant/protectant but it does leave an oily residue (and a mess if overused).
digoldstuff
join:2008-09-16
Todd, NC

digoldstuff

Member

Howie...My name is Steve Hill, currently from Atlanta, Ga. but soon moving to Boone, N.C. (mountains) I came across this site quite by mistake, googling for a manual for my Kenwood KR-9600 receiver. I then came across your photos and description of taking your cover off and cleaning the unit thoroughly. I've done the same thing, as my younger brother gave me this KR9600 a lot of years ago, and I just love the thing and would not sell it. I've cleaned all the dust out of it, but never cleaned the contacts with a contact cleaner, and thats next on my list, because I get some crackle when running the volume up and down. One of my gauge lights is out, or maybe its the little blue FM light, but I want to restore this thing to its assembly line glory.
When I hook up my "one" JBL 4312-A control monitor speaker to my Kenwood, man, you talk about some clean but thumping sound. Of course, I'm aware you can power about 3 sets of speakers with this monster. I'm still looking for a 2nd JBL 4312-A but they are getting hard to find. If you ever get a change to buy a pair, you will never regret it. Anyway, dude, if you know where or how I might replace some of those tiny bulbs on this beaut, I'd appreciate any info, or if you know how I might find an operating manual for it.
Take care, Stephen Hill

bobrk
You kids get offa my lawn
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join:2000-02-02
San Jose, CA

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Just seeing that display took me back to college. I was too poor to buy one of those, but my dorm mates usually had one or two. Awesome. A lot shinier than my 1986 NAD.