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clevere1
Premium
join:2002-01-06
Vancouver, WA
·Qwest.net

Should a Trane clean air effects unit make some noise?

So, I've noticed my house is nice and dusty lately, still trying to figure it out. I am listening to the Trane Clean Air effects unit, and I can hear it click on, but I don't hear any noise from it otherwise. Should it be making noise?

Also, when it comes on, it smells funky. I'm not sure how to say it, except it smells kind of sweet. Not like Ozone. But just an odd sweet smell ... any ideas?
--
Where's th' DAFFY DUCK EXHIBIT??


SandShark
So it goes
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join:2000-05-23
Santa Fe, TX
clubs:
·Verizon Online DSL


edit:
August 29th, @07:11PM

No, it doesn't make noise like an electronic air cleaner does. You won't hear that "bug zapper" noise. Plus, your unit is located in the garage, so you should not hear much of anything, not even blower noise. As for ozone, the unit produces less than 5 PPB (parts per billion).

If I were you, I'd call back the company that installed the system to find out where all that dust is coming from. You've either got air infiltrating the duct work or your home is under negative pressure, which is pulling in dust through leaky doors, windows, light fixtures, wall sockets/switches, etc.

Edit - Before they come out, tell them you'd like an external static pressure (ESP) reading taken.


clevere1
Premium
join:2002-01-06
Vancouver, WA
·Qwest.net

said by SandShark See Profile :

No, it doesn't make noise like an electronic air cleaner does. You won't hear that "bug zapper" noise. Plus, your unit is located in the garage, so you should not hear much of anything, not even blower noise. As for ozone, the unit produces less than 5 PPB (parts per billion).

If I were you, I'd call back the company that installed the system to find out where all that dust is coming from. You've either got air infiltrating the duct work or your home is under negative pressure, which is pulling in dust through leaky doors, windows, light fixtures, wall sockets/switches, etc.

Edit - Before they come out, tell them you'd like an external static pressure (ESP) reading taken.
Is that gonna cost me money?


clevere1
Premium
join:2002-01-06
Vancouver, WA
reply to SandShark
SandShark-

If I posted a picture of the filters, would that be helpful at all? The filters are catching something... But according to my thermostat there is only 20 runtime days on the filters themselves...


SandShark
So it goes
Premium,MVM
join:2000-05-23
Santa Fe, TX
clubs:
·Verizon Online DSL

reply to clevere1
said by clevere1 See Profile :

said by SandShark See Profile :

No, it doesn't make noise like an electronic air cleaner does. You won't hear that "bug zapper" noise. Plus, your unit is located in the garage, so you should not hear much of anything, not even blower noise. As for ozone, the unit produces less than 5 PPB (parts per billion).

If I were you, I'd call back the company that installed the system to find out where all that dust is coming from. You've either got air infiltrating the duct work or your home is under negative pressure, which is pulling in dust through leaky doors, windows, light fixtures, wall sockets/switches, etc.

Edit - Before they come out, tell them you'd like an external static pressure (ESP) reading taken.
Is that gonna cost me money?
I guess that depends. I get the impression the dust issue is something that started since the installation of your new heat pump and air cleaner. If that is the case, you need to let them know that. I'm still not convinced you're not pulling in garage air from around your air cleaner.


clevere1
Premium
join:2002-01-06
Vancouver, WA
·Qwest.net

said by SandShark See Profile :

I guess that depends. I get the impression the dust issue is something that started since the installation of your new heat pump and air cleaner. If that is the case, you need to let them know that. I'm still not convinced you're not pulling in garage air from around your air cleaner.
hell, I don't know either honestly. I've sealed the thing up as best I can, and I can no longer hear/feel air drafts out of the unit. The only other place I could seal up is on the inside of the air cleaner housing, but I'm not sure if that's safe, or a good idea.


SandShark
So it goes
Premium,MVM
join:2000-05-23
Santa Fe, TX
clubs:
The question is - Are you experiencing more dust since your heat pump and air cleaner were installed?


clevere1
Premium
join:2002-01-06
Vancouver, WA
·Qwest.net

reply to clevere1
Click for full size
Very Dirty Pre-filter with about 20 running days on it
Click for full size
Somewhat dusty zapper
Click for full size
Dirty Micro filter?
Click for full size
Original from the place being built, this is the inside of the Inlet for Air.
Click for full size
Hmmm Spray foam ... Should I seal up the metal seams from the inside?
The original inlet (air from the house?) Is the only additional place I can think of to seal up, but I would have to seal the seams from the inside. The funny part is, that the Intake in the house itself, is a really large metal box with a grate on it ... I didn't realize it was feed by that black plastic tube.

The reason I consider sealing it up from the inside, is because the rest of the duct work that isn't sealed, is against the wall.

We've already had dust (everyone does), it just seems like it's more of an issue than it was prior to the installation. I'm trying to gather as much information as I can because I want to go into this informed before I call the install crappy. Plus, if I can fix it Right myself, then I know it's done right, AND I don't have to take another day off work.
--
Where's th' DAFFY DUCK EXHIBIT??


clevere1
Premium
join:2002-01-06
Vancouver, WA
·Qwest.net


edit:
August 29th, @07:44PM

reply to SandShark
said by SandShark See Profile :

The question is - Are you experiencing more dust since your heat pump and air cleaner were installed?
You know, I think so. I really do. But I'm not 100% certain. But it seems like we have to dust WAY more often. And even after a good dusting, and a vaccuming, the next day we have to dust again.

Question for ya, since you mentioned pressure. Let's say the AC/Heat is on and running. If my bedroom door is shut, and I try to open it, it takes a little force to open it (like a pressure difference in the room), is that normal? (It's been like that since we bought the place)

The whole system in the garage is more sealed than it was originally. I've spent some time sealing up the air leaks myself (from the original installation, not the new installation). And I no longer see the cob webs around the unit moving around....


SandShark
So it goes
Premium,MVM
join:2000-05-23
Santa Fe, TX
clubs:
·Verizon Online DSL

That is one dirty pre-filter, especially considering how little, relatively speaking, the system has been in operation. I would have to say either you're a slob or you're pulling in air from somewhere inside your return air duct/chase. Another thing, too, is the fact that you're now running A/C, where before you were only using heat. So, you're running the blower twice as much, if not more, than you were before the heat pump was installed.

You need to look inside the return air from where the air is drawn in inside the house and look for any places that aren't sealed. I say that because I can see some dust that has collected on the inside of the flex (black) duct. My guess is somewhere, including where the duct is terminated in that contraption of a plywood box, you're pulling in unconditioned and unfiltered air.


clevere1
Premium
join:2002-01-06
Vancouver, WA
·Qwest.net

said by SandShark See Profile :

That is one dirty pre-filter, especially considering how little, relatively speaking, the system has been in operation. I would have to say either you're a slob or you're pulling in air from somewhere inside your return air duct/chase. Another thing, too, is the fact that you're now running A/C, where before you were only using heat. So, you're running the blower twice as much, if not more, than you were before the heat pump was installed.

You need to look inside the return air from where the air is drawn in inside the house and look for any places that aren't sealed. I say that because I can see some dust that has collected on the inside of the flex (black) duct. My guess is somewhere, including where the duct is terminated in that contraption of a plywood box, you're pulling in unconditioned and unfiltered air.
Haha! ok, I don't dust, or clean as much as I probably should, but I don't think I'm a slob. Yeah, I guess the fan comes on ALOT more than it did when the heat was going, but during the 3 winter months we were here, the old 5" filter wasn't that dirty.

That's not a plywood box, that's a joisted box You lost me on this one. I do see the cobweb, and some dust on the end of that hose. But that part of the system wasn't touched during the installation. How would you seal off the end of the hose where it meets the wood? The metal duct tape won't work for that.... I'm confused.


clevere1
Premium
join:2002-01-06
Vancouver, WA
reply to SandShark
Oh one more question. The metal housing for the filter, can I seal the seams on the inside with the metal duct tape without ill affects? Is it safe/a good idea?


SandShark
So it goes
Premium,MVM
join:2000-05-23
Santa Fe, TX
clubs:
·Verizon Online DSL

reply to clevere1
said by clevere1 See Profile :

said by SandShark See Profile :

That is one dirty pre-filter, especially considering how little, relatively speaking, the system has been in operation. I would have to say either you're a slob or you're pulling in air from somewhere inside your return air duct/chase. Another thing, too, is the fact that you're now running A/C, where before you were only using heat. So, you're running the blower twice as much, if not more, than you were before the heat pump was installed.

You need to look inside the return air from where the air is drawn in inside the house and look for any places that aren't sealed. I say that because I can see some dust that has collected on the inside of the flex (black) duct. My guess is somewhere, including where the duct is terminated in that contraption of a plywood box, you're pulling in unconditioned and unfiltered air.
That's not a plywood box, that's a joisted box You lost me on this one. I do see the cobweb, and some dust on the end of that hose. But that part of the system wasn't touched during the installation. How would you seal off the end of the hose where it meets the wood? The metal duct tape won't work for that.... I'm confused.
I didn't say it was touched. It is evidence that you're possibly pulling in air from around those joists, which you do not want. The only air you should be pulling in is the air from the living space. Excuse the sorry drawing, but do you see what I mean?

Also, where does the other end of that black duct start from? There has to be a grill or grills somewhere inside your home where the return air enters. If there is a grill, you need to pull it so you can look inside and see if there are places that aren't sealed.


clevere1
Premium
join:2002-01-06
Vancouver, WA
·Qwest.net


edit:
August 29th, @09:02PM

Also, where does the other end of that black duct start from? There has to be a grill or grills somewhere inside your home where the return air enters. If there is a grill, you need to pull it so you can look inside and see if there are places that aren't sealed.
Ah, ok, now I understand. Yeah, there's a grate about 12 feet off the ground in the stairwell .. Seeing in it should be a good challenge for the weekend. I'm not sure where it starts from, but before the end of the weekend I will find out.

Ok, about the seams and funky holes there. Any recommendations for sealing those? The two metal seems you circled are against the garage walls, with absolutely no room to run metal duct tape on the outside. I suppose spray foam for the cracks in the wood, but would you recommend something different? The black duct to wood .. I have no idea. I know it's "best" to seal things from the outside when you can.

What would you recommend for sealing these up?


SandShark
So it goes
Premium,MVM
join:2000-05-23
Santa Fe, TX
clubs:
·Verizon Online DSL

That's a good weekend project! At least you'll be indoors.

You could use silicone caulk, canned foam insulation for the bigger gaps, or aluminum tape for the metal to metal connections. Take a good look inside the "box" area for any other gaps, too. The photo doesn't show all the possible places that might need sealed.


clevere1
Premium
join:2002-01-06
Vancouver, WA
·Qwest.net


edit:
August 29th, @09:11PM

said by SandShark See Profile :

That's a good weekend project! At least you'll be indoors.

You could use silicone caulk, canned foam insulation for the bigger gaps, or aluminum tape for the metal to metal connections. Take a good look inside the "box" area for any other gaps, too. The photo doesn't show all the possible places that might need sealed.
Yup, the camera and lens, flash, and battery pack are a little to big to fit completely inside the box. Before I noticed your post, I saw this, and answered my own question about sealing from the inside:

»www.southface.org/web/resources&···lark.htm

I've cleaned the pre-filter, and the collection filter and will do some looking tonight at what is now termed "The box". Looking inside the air return (the one that sucks the air from the house into the furnace) will have to wait a few days.


SandShark
So it goes
Premium,MVM
join:2000-05-23
Santa Fe, TX
clubs:
·Verizon Online DSL

said by clevere1 See Profile :

said by SandShark See Profile :

That's a good weekend project! At least you'll be indoors.

You could use silicone caulk, canned foam insulation for the bigger gaps, or aluminum tape for the metal to metal connections. Take a good look inside the "box" area for any other gaps, too. The photo doesn't show all the possible places that might need sealed.
Yup, the camera and lens, flash, and battery pack are a little to big to fit completely inside the box. Before I noticed your post, I saw this, and answered my own question about sealing from the inside:

»www.southface.org/web/resources&···lark.htm
Yup! I've seen it a lot. In fact, we just looked at a $1,000,000 home today that had the exact same problem.

Here's the other photo:




clevere1
Premium
join:2002-01-06
Vancouver, WA
·Qwest.net

Ahhh! Hey, I'm curious. Is there a metal hood I could put into there without much trouble to get rid of "the box"?

So if I just break out my metal tape, and seal up those metal joints, that's ok, safe, and standard practice? (I worry about putting something into the air that is bad for my kids.) Again, thanks for all your help! If you ever in the Vancouver, WA area, I'll buy you a big ass dinner.


SandShark
So it goes
Premium,MVM
join:2000-05-23
Santa Fe, TX
clubs:
·Verizon Online DSL


edit:
August 29th, @11:09PM

said by clevere1 See Profile :

Ahhh! Hey, I'm curious. Is there a metal hood I could put into there without much trouble to get rid of "the box"?

So if I just break out my metal tape, and seal up those metal joints, that's ok, safe, and standard practice? (I worry about putting something into the air that is bad for my kids.) Again, thanks for all your help! If you ever in the Vancouver, WA area, I'll buy you a big ass dinner.
I don't know how you'd do that without a lot of hassle. Your best bet is to foam the gaps as best you can. I know that stuff isn't fun to work with. I think they make a caulking type gun that is used to dispense the foam, which might be a lot less messy than trying to hold those cans upside down and trying to get the foam where it needs to go. Just remember, a little goes a long way!

Yes, it's standard practice to use foam and metal tape. You got me, though, as far as the safety aspect of adhesives and foam. I have no idea what, if any, type of effect that stuff has as far as health issues. If you're concerned, you might want to check into it further.

Edit - I'd love to visit the Washington/Oregon area some day. That's a part of the country I'd like to photograph. I'd go for a good steak off the barbecue and a few Heinikens.

robbin
Premium,MVM
join:2000-09-21
Leander, TX

reply to clevere1
said by clevere1 See Profile :

Question for ya, since you mentioned pressure. Let's say the AC/Heat is on and running. If my bedroom door is shut, and I try to open it, it takes a little force to open it (like a pressure difference in the room), is that normal? (It's been like that since we bought the place)
You either need to cut off the bottom of the door or install some sort of through the wall vent. When the door is closed it is sealing off the return air from the room.
-
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