chmod
Premium
join:2000-12-12
Joliet, IL
clubs: 
edit:
October 4th, @08:58PM
| Help troubleshoot snowblower carb problems.
I bought a used Dynamark model 5360-6200 snowblower last year, unsure of age. Toward the end of last winter I came out to the garage for something and it smelled like I tipped a gas can over or something. After some investigating I found the source of the leaking gas was coming from the carb of the snowblower. I took the bowl off along with the float and jet quickly examined them, didn't find anything, and put it back together. No more leaks until a few weeks ago same thing. I took it apart this time and inspected the float to make sure it wasn't taking on gas and it is infact air tight. I don't really know what problems to look for on the jet it appeared ok to me. I them reassembled it all again this time it lasted about 3days before emptying the remainder of the gas in the tank onto the garage floor. Attached is a picture of where its leaking the butterfly valve I think its called it spews from there. Any ideas?
edit:
I believe the motor is a 5hp tecumseh.
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PoloDude
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join:2006-03-29
East Northport, NY | One thing i would do is install an in-line shut off valve. That will stop the leaking if you can't fix the carb. Does it still run ok? |
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GadgetsRme
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join:2002-01-30
Canon City, CO
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edit:
October 4th, @09:26PM
| reply to chmod
I'm not sure about that particular model, but most snow blowers are gravity feed on the fuel. There should be a fuel shut off at the bottom of the fuel tank that should be turned off every time you shut the blower off. The fuel, if it is coming out of the butterfly of the carb, which is the choke, is flowing internally from gravity pressure.
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chmod
Premium
join:2000-12-12
Joliet, IL
clubs:
| reply to PoloDude
said by PoloDude  :One thing i would do is install an in-line shut off valve. That will stop the leaking if you can't fix the carb. Does it still run ok? That was going to be my plan of attack if I couldn't get it to quit. The last time I put it back together a few days ago I played with the jets until it ran smooth. So yea it does run really good. Last winter it would only stay running if I left it fully choked hence running really rich and not making much power. I knew when I was about to run out of gas because it kicked into over-drive because it leaned out and really threw the snow. Now I've got it to where it will run really well with the choke all the way off.
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chmod
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join:2000-12-12
Joliet, IL
clubs:
| reply to GadgetsRme
said by GadgetsRme :I'm not sure about that particular model, but most snow blowers are gravity feed on the fuel. There should be a fuel shut off at the bottom of the fuel tank that should be turned off every time you shut the blower off. The fuel, if it is coming out of the butterfly of the carb, which is the choke, is flowing internally from gravity pressure. You would think so, not on this one.
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TheMG
join:2007-09-04
Edmonton, AB
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| reply to chmod
I had a gas trimmer (weed eater) with that problem. It would spill a bunch of gas on the ground overnight and flood the engine. Ran fine once it got started, but if you stopped it and let it sit for about an hour the engine would be flooded with gas again.
Not sure exactly what was wrong with it though, it was under warranty so I didn't mess with it. |
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PoloDude
Premium,VIP
join:2006-03-29
East Northport, NY | reply to chmod
I think a shut off valve is your easy course of action. I have one on my snowblower and generator. |
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chmod
Premium
join:2000-12-12
Joliet, IL
clubs:
| said by PoloDude :I think a shut off valve is your easy course of action. I have one on my snowblower and generator. Yea, I think thats the route I'll go. Shut the gas off let the remaining fuel burn out park it. Was just trying to find an explanation for it randomly doing this.
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3SGTE
ST215W
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join:2000-11-23
there
clubs: | reply to chmod
There is a problem with either the float, its needle or seat.
I agree that a shutoff is a great idea, but the current problem still needs to be fixed.
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Tursiops_G
Technoid
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Norwalk, CT
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edit:
October 4th, @10:15PM
| reply to chmod
said by chmod :Yea, I think thats the route I'll go. Shut the gas off let the remaining fuel burn out park it. Was just trying to find an explanation for it randomly doing this. Explanation: Dirty/Worn Needle Valve/Seat, or Sticking Float in the Fuel Bowl...
Go with the Shutoff Valve (Simple, Cheap), or else have the Carb rebuilt (Higher Cost)... 
(Edit: 3SGTE beat me to it). 
-Tursiops_G.
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chmod
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join:2000-12-12
Joliet, IL
clubs:
| reply to 3SGTE
said by 3SGTE :There is a problem with either the float, its needle or seat. I agree that a shutoff is a great idea, but the current problem still needs to be fixed. The float appears fine, it has no leaks, nor varnish. What do I look for on the needle? Theres a spring I guess you would call it and I assume is the seat on the bottom side.
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Stevert
join:2001-10-23
Algonquin, IL
·AT&T Midwest
| said by chmod :The float appears fine, it has no leaks, nor varnish. What do I look for on the needle? Theres a spring I guess you would call it and I assume is the seat on the bottom side. The float could be fine, but if the needle isn't sealing it won't shut off the flow of gas into the carb.
And no, the seat is actually above the pointed top of the needle. When the bowl fills with fuel and causes the float to push the needle up, that's where it seats. Look for damage/contaminants there and on the needle point itself.
Here's a link to a picture of a carb assembly that shows the seat - It's a downdraft carb, and yours is a side draft, but the float/needle/seat work the same in both:
»racingarticles.com/images/carb_basics.gif |
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3SGTE
ST215W
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join:2000-11-23
there
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| reply to chmod
There is sometimes a specification for the weight of the float.
Aside from that, make sure that nothing is sticking and that the sealing surfaces of the needle and seat are good.
Clearly something isn't good!
Sometimes you can buy rebuild kits, these may include a float/needle/seat.
If it is dirty, then make sure to address the source of the dirt as well, or the problem will recur.
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Tursiops_G
Technoid
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join:2002-02-06
Norwalk, CT
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| reply to chmod
Just adding to 3SGTE 's post, Is there any Rust in the Fuel tank? If So, then you should either replace the tank, or else add an In-line Fuel Filter to prevent the rust from re-contaminating the carb...
-Tursiops_G.
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chmod
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join:2000-12-12
Joliet, IL
clubs:
| reply to chmod
What numbers do I reference to buy a rebuild kit? I'm pretty sure I can get a rebuild. I thought I googled some numbers on it to confirm it was a tecumseh last winter. Nothing I input now reflects that.
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Some people are like Slinkies. Not really good for anything, but they still bring a smile to your face when you push them down a flight of stairs. |
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chmod
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join:2000-12-12
Joliet, IL
clubs:
| reply to Tursiops_G
said by Tursiops_G :Just adding to 3SGTE 's post, Is there any Rust in the Fuel tank? If So, then you should either replace the tank, or else add an In-line Fuel Filter to prevent the rust from re-contaminating the carb... -Tursiops_G. The tank is very clean.
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Some people are like Slinkies. Not really good for anything, but they still bring a smile to your face when you push them down a flight of stairs. |
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3SGTE
ST215W
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join:2000-11-23
there
clubs: | reply to chmod
For parts, I would go via the manufacturer of the snowblower, or a decent sized small engine repair shop.
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gawron
join:2005-12-09
Farmington, MI | reply to chmod
Rebuild kits are cheap and fairly easy to install. Sounds like a sticking float valve and a rebuild kit will cure that problem. Rebuild it, you'll be happy you did! |
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DaHen
Premium
join:2002-11-08
Brockton, MA | reply to chmod
I vote for a rebuilt kit as well. The new gaskets and needle would help.
Plus a fuel filter and valve. |
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HRM
God Bless America
Premium,MVM
join:2002-02-03
Darien, CT
clubs: | reply to chmod
Fast and priced well.
»www.jackssmallengines.com/index.html
Call if you need help. |
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