Glenn
I'D Rather Be Skiing
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join:2000-10-05
Wallingford, CT
| Electrical issue that has me stumped
I've attached a pic of the two breaker boxes we have. The gray box is what I'm going to assume is the "original" box to the house...it supplies power everything in the original part of the house. The tan box is for the addition....which was bumped off the backside of the house: lower level sunroom and above that, part of the kitchen was extended and a porch added.
The electrical system works fine as is...we don't throw fuses and we don't have any flickering or dimming lights.
We have a heated mattress pad we like to use when the weather gets cooler. However, this darn thing will not stay on! We thought we had a bad one...exchanged it..same thing.
I've tried different plugs, different power strips, I even swapped out the plugs in the bedroom...didn't work.
The only thing in the house that seems to be running when the pad shuts off is the fridge. But what perplexes me about this is the fridge is on another breaker. We're literally had everything in the house off...but the fridge and the pad will not stay on. If the fridge isn't running, the pad will stay on.
Here's what the pad looks like: »www.lnt.com/product/index.jsp?pr···pad&sr=1
It's got two zones, with two controllers. You can set them from 1-5.
I'm completely stumped on this one guys. I'm not sure how to remedy this one.
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pende_tim
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Andover, NJ
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Is there a breaker tripping? Or is the pad just turning off?
Some heating pads will turn off after a set time automatically like after 20 or 30 minutes. This is a safety feature.
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SparkChaser
See the Light
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join:2000-06-06
Downingtown, PA
clubs: | reply to Glenn
How long will it stay on? It says it has a 10 hr turn off. |
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Glenn
I'D Rather Be Skiing
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join:2000-10-05
Wallingford, CT
| reply to Glenn
No tripping breakers at all...it just shuts off.
The shut off time varries...sometimes it'll shut off in a matter of minutes. Other times, you'll turn it on, and 2 seconds later, it's off.
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jack b
Big House
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Up the River
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| reply to Glenn
It sounds like you could have a multi-wire branch circuit that has one leg on the wrong (same) phase, or, there might be a loose neutral connection.
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Glenn
I'D Rather Be Skiing
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join:2000-10-05
Wallingford, CT
| said by jack b  :It sounds like you could have a multi-wire branch circuit that has one leg on the wrong (same) phase, or, there might be a loose neutral connection. Is that an easy fix? Would something like that effect other stuff plugged into the same plug(s)? The pad seems to be the only thing effected at this time.
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jack b
Big House
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edit:
October 6th, @08:57AM
| reply to Glenn
First confirm if the two circuits share a common neutral or not. Next take a voltage reading across both (energized)circuit breakers, if it's zero, they share the same phase, if it's 240, then they are on opposite phases.
There could be a problem with the fridge leaking current and unbalancing the system, again assuming a poor neutral.
You could simply move a couple of single pole breakers around in the panel if the two share the same leg of a phase.
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Glenn
I'D Rather Be Skiing
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join:2000-10-05
Wallingford, CT
| quote:
There could be a problem with the fridge leaking current and unbalancing the system again assuming a poor neutral.
This sounds like it may be the issue.
What's the easiest way to test the neutral? Pop off the face of the pannel?
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shamanfk
join:2001-03-12
Fort Kent, ME | reply to Glenn
I have used one of these pads for years--no problem, they do shut done after 10 hrs.
Simply try another outlet for now to see if the same results.
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Sweet Witch
Be the flame, not the moth.
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join:2003-07-15
Gallifrey | reply to Glenn
For testing, can you bring it to work or a friends house and see what happens? |
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Glenn
I'D Rather Be Skiing
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join:2000-10-05
Wallingford, CT
| reply to Glenn
I've tried other outlets in the bedroom...same thing. I guess I could rig up an extent ion cord and see what happens.
I should probably pop the cover off the breaker box and see what I can figure out...or take a pic and post it.
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tp0d
yabbazooie
Premium
join:2001-02-13
Carnegie, PA
clubs:
·Verizon FIOS
| I agree with some of the others above with current leaking into the neutral.
Definitely try an extension cord to another outlet in a different room.. The fridge could be pushing noise or a small spike back into the hot leg, and your bedroom may be on the same 120v feeder as the fridge.
I know the electronics in the heating control are very sensitive to current draw, kind of like a GFCI. This protects you, should the element break, or someone spills water on the blanket (assuming there is damage to the element)
The other thing you can try is a EFI/EMI isolator on either the fridge or your blanket. A standard computer surge protector is not enough, I can recommend this:
»www.amazon.com/Tripp-Lite-ULTRAB···6&sr=8-9
I use these at my work when I encounter noisy electrical environments that screw up flame detector circuits in water heaters. They isolate noise quite well..
good luck
-j |
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Glenn
I'D Rather Be Skiing
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join:2000-10-05
Wallingford, CT
| tp0d,
Awesome, thanks for the that link! I wonder if they have those at the Depot or Lowe's? Swapping out the plug would certainly be the easiest most cost effective way to try to solve the issue at this point.
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tp0d
yabbazooie
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Carnegie, PA
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edit:
October 9th, @10:27PM
| Far as I`ve seen, the big box stores do not carry that device. Its a little over their heads..
This is not a plug replacement, its a 2-outlet EMI/RFI surge protector. It has a male plug on the other side which plugs into your existing plug.
They do work very well though. Will it solve your problem, possibly, but ya wont know until ya try.. Worst case, if it doesnt solve it, you can plug your computer into it, as it is the best protection going. I use a larger form of isobar on all my equipment. No substitute.
-j |
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TheMG
join:2007-09-04
Edmonton, AB
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| reply to Glenn
If your electrical system is within specs I'm going to have to say that the electronics in the control are very sensitive to power fluctuation (probably due to poor design) and the inrush from the compressor startup in the fridge is causing it to reset. The EMI/RFI filter might help, no guarantee. Only one way to find out though. |
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Glenn
I'D Rather Be Skiing
Premium
join:2000-10-05
Wallingford, CT
| reply to Glenn
Thanks guys; I appreciate it.
It was doing it again last night. What's strange is when the fridge is running, the heater will only stay on for less than a minute. Other times, it stays on fine, and other times it shuts off in seconds.
I've had the pad plugged into a surge protector power strip...I take it that plug in unit is a bit different?
Where do you think the best place to use the isolator is....at the plug by the fridge or the plug where the pad is used?
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joeblow
join:2007-07-14
Knoxville, TN | reply to Glenn
Glenn try unplugging the fridge if you can for a while. Its easier, safer for you then messing with the box I think. your food will keep. |
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tp0d
yabbazooie
Premium
join:2001-02-13
Carnegie, PA
clubs:
edit:
October 11th, @10:22AM
|
yea try unplugging the fridge for a nite, but you may have already tried that.
I would plug the affected device into the isolator. If the fridge affects more than one device, then plug the fridge into it.
-j |
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BurntCricket
Gotta Do What Ya Gotta Do
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join:2000-09-02
Here
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| reply to Glenn
Unplugging the fridge(not just turning it off) and running the heating pad for a couple hours will give you the answer, as others said; it is most likely the fridge causing a freaky spike(doesn't take much) or noise into the line, turning off the circuit in the heating pad.
I had a touch lamp in my bedroom the refused to work right while my water bed heater was on(not too bad in the summer but in the winter, well ...), once I got rid of the water bed the lamp works fine.
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whizkid3
Premium,MVM
join:2002-02-21
Queens, NY | reply to Glenn
Did you try the heater on another circuit?
Did you try unplugging the fridge and seeing if the heater is working?
What is exactly turning the heater off? Does it have a ground fault device at its plug? Is that tripping? |
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