Where to buy silicone sealant for boiler blower assembly in Home Repair & Improvement http://www.dslreports.com/forum/r21295058 en Sat, 05 Dec 2009 23:21:36 EDT Sat, 05 Dec 2009 23:21:36 EDT Re: Where to buy silicone sealant for boiler blower assembly http://www.dslreports.com/forum/remark,21330165 jack b : Either should have them. Bring in an orifice to match the thread size. Put a little pipe dope on the threads, and gently tighten. When you fire it up, put a little soap-water solution on the threads to check for leaks.
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said by jack b See Profile :

The orifices screw out of the manifold and either a 1/8 or 1/4 inch NPT pipe plug will fit the opening.
Does Home Depot or Lowe carry these "pipe plug"? When installing the plugs, I don't need to use pipe thread compound, right? Simply unscrew the old one and screw in new plug?]]> http://www.dslreports.com/forum/remark,21330093 Sun, 26 Oct 2008 21:13:48 EDT Re: Where to buy silicone sealant for boiler blower assembly http://www.dslreports.com/forum/remark,21330058 jack b : The orifices screw out of the manifold and either a 1/8 or 1/4 inch NPT pipe plug will fit the opening.
If you're inclined to go ahead and remove burners, don't take out any from the left, that's where the ignitor and sensor are.
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I did bumped up the aquastat high limit to 190. However, the outside temperature are warmer this weekend and the boiler didn't kick on that much. So I am not sure how the cycling is affected.

I am not home right now I don't have a closeup photo of the gas valve. As one can see from the 2nd pic, my unit (HE-5) has 8 burner tubes and Weil McLain made the HE gas boilers with various BTU output and the differences are in the number of burner tubes and/or size of cast iron core. As to remove the 1 to 2 burner tubes solution, how do I close the gas openings on the gas log?
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Click for full size
]]> http://www.dslreports.com/forum/remark,21329840 Sun, 26 Oct 2008 20:18:18 EDT Re: Where to buy silicone sealant for boiler blower assembly http://www.dslreports.com/forum/remark,21326050 Tyreman : The problem with closing off orifices on fixed input and rated appliances like boilers is the possibility of condensation within the vent and appliances.
perhaps also changing the normal percentage of constituents of the flue gas for that appliance.
Poor venting can be the result.

Let alone changing the whole operating parameter of the appliance period.
The appliance has to be installed as it was approved.

Boilers with listed firing rates and NOT with instructions to reduce that or listed as approved to do that with their instructions leave the mechanic in Canada anyway open to
being strung up and tarred and feathered.

Keep in mind this boiler is likely designed within to extract the maximum amount of heat and say its around 300-400 at stack with that BTU input on the rating plate.

If its on a borderline chimney or vent(I wouldn't know I haven't seen it) additionally with poor connector rise and run,let alone height and other factors, dropping the input then checking it with the approved charts for venting might show you that its not legal with the reduced input.
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Southern Ontario,Canada]]> http://www.dslreports.com/forum/remark,21326050 Sat, 25 Oct 2008 21:29:08 EDT Re: Where to buy silicone sealant for boiler blower assembly http://www.dslreports.com/forum/remark,21325943 SandShark :
said by Tyreman See Profile :

The UL / AGA / CGA listing certifies the boiler maximum BTU input and gross output rating based on that input.

Well yes of course its certified and designed to run at the rating stamped on the plate
If a fixed input unit its approx. 10% underfired at new anyway.

Over here IF the manufacturers instructions specifically indicate what you want to do (remove orifices,buners and plug to achieve various inputs)then its okay.
Thats is to say the boiler manual for the said equipment comes with instructions to do that its fine.

And you are correct "one can do" whatever they want.
I agree. If the manufacturer has specific instructions included with the appliance that allows modification, it would be fine. I'm not a boiler technician, but I have installed hundreds of gas furnaces and the only in the field modifications I have ever seen suggested in the installation/service documentation is converting from natural gas to propane/LPG. I would highly recommend not modifying the output of your boiler by plugging burners or adjusting the gas pressure regulator.]]> http://www.dslreports.com/forum/remark,21325943 Sat, 25 Oct 2008 21:01:00 EDT Re: Where to buy silicone sealant for boiler blower assembly http://www.dslreports.com/forum/remark,21325857 jack b : I would advise against touching the gas valve gas pressure regulator. The main burner primary air is entrained by the velocity of the gas stream injecting into the burner, go too low and you get delayed ignition / flashback. Neither are desirable.
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~Help Find a Cure for Cancer~
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As for de-rating the boiler, yes it is legal in the states.

I would recommend to remove the two end burners, and plug them with the correct size plug, probably 1/8" NPT. Your pilot should be in the center, and will light the burners correctly still.

You can also turn down the regulator on the gas valve, only about 1/2 to one full turn. I recommend doing this while running, and observing the flames before and after. You want no more than 1/4 less flame height than original. Thats also a good time to remove all burners and wash them out with water.

If you take a pic of your gas valve, I can show you where the reg screw is.

edit-- as for answers to the other q's--

1- no, anything over 180 will waste gas. technically, its best to modulate this setting, when the outdoor temp is between 25 and 50, heat with 160 max, and when outdoor is less, then go to 180. This allows higher efficiency. Your lockout high limit should be at 210.

2- (covered above)

3- I could recommend purchasing a small fan, only if you have an area with low traffic, around the baseboard. The fan will assist in convection and steal more heat from the system. It could be turned on when the weather gets colder, or possibly via a relay in parallel with the boiler tstat contacts. You would want the fan as far as possible from the wall tstat to prevent erratic temps.

4- overkill. 200 in gas will suit your situation better.

5- the module probably isnt, you can watch your boiler fire, if the pilot proves, then goes out, you may have either a dirty flame rod on the pilot or a bad ground between the two.

6- bad idea. heat rises, so the upstairs stat comes on less. your downstairs would be cold.

-j
--
if it aint broke, tweak it!!
currently on FiOS (kick aZZ!)]]> http://www.dslreports.com/forum/remark,21325492 Sat, 25 Oct 2008 19:00:49 EDT Re: Where to buy silicone sealant for boiler blower assembly http://www.dslreports.com/forum/remark,21324503 Tyreman : The UL / AGA / CGA listing certifies the boiler maximum BTU input and gross output rating based on that input.

Well yes of course its certified and designed to run at the rating stamped on the plate
If a fixed input unit its approx. 10% underfired at new anyway.

Over here IF the manufacturers instructions specifically indicate what you want to do (remove orifices,buners and plug to achieve various inputs)then its okay.
Thats is to say the boiler manual for the said equipment comes with instructions to do that its fine.

And you are correct "one can do" whatever they want.]]> http://www.dslreports.com/forum/remark,21324503 Sat, 25 Oct 2008 14:22:00 EDT Re: Where to buy silicone sealant for boiler blower assembly http://www.dslreports.com/forum/remark,21324150 jack b : One can decrease the boiler rating, but not increase it.
The UL / AGA / CGA listing certifies the boiler maximum BTU input and gross output rating based on that input.
--
~Help Find a Cure for Cancer~
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You wouldn't do that here and be responsible for it(as a certified fitter), because it changes the original certified rating of the apppliance from its original approval listing

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Southern Ontario,Canada]]> http://www.dslreports.com/forum/remark,21323475 Sat, 25 Oct 2008 09:47:02 EDT Re: Where to buy silicone sealant for boiler blower assembly http://www.dslreports.com/forum/remark,21323463 jack b : You can remove a couple of outer burners and orifices if you like, and plug the manifold opening with a pipe plug.
Each burner removed will decrease the gas input by roughly 17,000BTU/hr.
Several boiler manufacturers I know of do exactly this to deliver different boiler output ratings.
--
~Help Find a Cure for Cancer~
~Proud Member of Team Discovery ~]]> http://www.dslreports.com/forum/remark,21323463 Sat, 25 Oct 2008 09:43:29 EDT Re: Where to buy silicone sealant for boiler blower assembly http://www.dslreports.com/forum/remark,21323141 Tyreman : 2. Remove a few of 8 burner tubes and plug the gas hole(s) on the manifold. Less burner=Less BTU.

Asolute NO Dangerous and illegal

3. Add more metal fins to the baseboard pipe to radiate heat faster. 1/3 of the pipe inside has not metal fin. This requires cutting the copper pipe and using the torch is something I never done and always tried to avoid. New pipes with metal fins are cheaply available

NO again

4. Install DIY a $200 device called Beckett Heat Manager. The wire schematic is not exactly same as the example provided and I don't know if it works.
»www.becketthm.com/

No I wouldn't add more complications,its basically another dressed up aqua stat. Keep it simple

What type of rads modern slant fin style copper tube?Likely
So 180-200f
or older cast iron? if it is cast iron 160F is it.

Every once and awhile this problem is about service people see it.
Its really hard to give exact setting instructions as one would have to see all facets of the installation including the piping/rad layouts.
Its fine to play armchair detective but being there and completely examining the system as a whole is THE only proper way.
I have even found valves some partially closed in systems etc.
people trying to adjust it better
Boiler maybe running on limit while either zone is becoming satisfied.
If it was my system I can't see it from here,all its piping layouts etc but I would likley have it back on one main stat in the main living area.
But you have 2 circulators,zone controllers and it may be piped to support a zone system configuaration. ]]> http://www.dslreports.com/forum/remark,21323141 Sat, 25 Oct 2008 05:57:22 EDT Re: Where to buy silicone sealant for boiler blower assembly http://www.dslreports.com/forum/remark,21322593 Langning : Since some of you are very knowledgeable with heating equipments, I am going to ask for solution(s) on another problem of this boiler: it cycles too often when the thermostat calls for heat. After I'd been monitoring the boiler everyday this week and reading enough information on hot water boiler heating, I reach the conclusion that my boiler is simply producing too much heat for the baseboard radiator in my house (about 1200 sf upstairs heated to 68 when we are home and 600 sf downstairs and its thermostat setting is at 60 but the room temperature is always higher because the boiler ans HW heater in the utility plus the gas dryer in the laundry room) can dissipate fast enough. The boiler stops because of the high limit (which is set to 180) has been reached and the aquastat (honeywell box with 2 white wires) cuts off the power to the vent motor. When the power vent is off, the pressure switch (round thing with orange & white rubber hoses) cuts off the power to the 24V transformer, the ignition control module, and the gas valve...

The 2-zone circulators are controlled by 2 other outside Honeywell relays (in-line between the thermostat and the boiler) and they are constantly on while the boiler's temperature bounces between 160/170 (turn on) to 180 (shut off). Usually take the burner like 30 seconds (add another 30-40 seconds to the purge cycle) to heat up 10 degree and wait a minute or 2 to drop to the low temperature of 160-170 and the cycle repeat continuously until the thermostat temperature is reached.

Without the expensive option of replacing the boiler with a smaller one, what are my best option(s) among:

1. Increase the aquastat high limit to 190 or 200?

2. Remove a few of 8 burner tubes and plug the gas hole(s) on the manifold. Less burner=Less BTU.

3. Add more metal fins to the baseboard pipe to radiate heat faster. 1/3 of the pipe inside has not metal fin. This requires cutting the copper pipe and using the torch is something I never done and always tried to avoid. New pipes with metal fins are cheaply available.

4. Install DIY a $200 device called Beckett Heat Manager. The wire schematic is not exactly same as the example provided and I don't know if it works.
»www.becketthm.com/

5. The current Honeywell ignition module is an universal replacement of the original module which was fried many years ago. And I don't know if the Honeywell module is a factor the frequent cycleing.

6. Remove the downstairs zone relay and have the upstairs thermostat control both circulators. Instead of hot water heating 1200 sf, it heats 1800 sf at any given time. More BTU demand = less cycling.]]> http://www.dslreports.com/forum/remark,21322593 Fri, 24 Oct 2008 23:42:14 EDT Re: Where to buy silicone sealant for boiler blower assembly http://www.dslreports.com/forum/remark,21322559 Langning :
said by tp0d See Profile :

The silicone that is shown in the first pic is more than sufficient.

A Weil-McLain gold will never generate above 350° exhaust temps, and most any silicone will handle that.
BTW, it is Weil-McLain HE-5 Series 3 Boiler 133,000BTU at 82% efficiency. I can touch the flue vent and it doesn't feel any hotter than the hot water pipe which tops out at 180 degree. Then again I already purchased the large tube of high heat silicone sealant and used only a tiny amount...

As for the pinging sound, you probably slid the squirrel cage too far out on the shaft, and it is contacting some inner surface inside the blower housing. Not a huge issue if it only makes the noise on startup/shutdown, but should be investigated.
I will dissemble the blower unit again tomorrow morning. I was waiting for the ebay motor to arrive. But the seller only shipped it this Wed. and it won't arrive until next Monday. Because I needed a full day to give enough time for the silicone to cure and yet I don't lose heat at night, I can only do this on weekend. Also I need an extra hand (from my wife) to hold the motor while I tighten the screws in confined space.

You do know this motor needs oiled once a year, usually at the beginning of the heating season...?
Yes, I know. But stupid me I had been using the 3-in-1 household lubricant because it came in a small bottle with a telescoping spout. While researching on the motor, I realized this motor requires SAE 20W motor oil; I have to go out and purchased a $10 metal can with long flexible neck and a quart of 20W motor that is going to last thousand years at the rate of 5 drops per year. The placement of the motor make it impossible to oil any other way.
Click for full size
Click for full size
]]> http://www.dslreports.com/forum/remark,21322559 Fri, 24 Oct 2008 23:31:51 EDT Re: Where to buy silicone sealant for boiler blower assembly http://www.dslreports.com/forum/remark,21322172 tp0d : The silicone that is shown in the first pic is more than sufficient.

A Weil-McLain gold will never generate above 350° exhaust temps, and most any silicone will handle that.

As for the pinging sound, you probably slid the squirrel cage too far out on the shaft, and it is contacting some inner surface inside the blower housing. Not a huge issue if it only makes the noise on startup/shutdown, but should be investigated.

You do know this motor needs oiled once a year, usually at the beginning of the heating season...?

-j]]> http://www.dslreports.com/forum/remark,21322172 Fri, 24 Oct 2008 21:46:17 EDT Re: Where to buy silicone sealant for boiler blower assembly http://www.dslreports.com/forum/remark,21305617 TheMG : Sounds like the bearing probably seized due to lack of lubrication.

said by Langning See Profile :

I still have a problem and will require me to disassemble the blower unit again when I receive my new motor/capacitor of ebay. During the blower spin up (2 seconds) and spin down (4-6 seconds) after the boiler is shut off, I hear clicking/small object bouncing sounds from the blower housing like the blower wheel is hitting something. I don't know if it is related the sliding shaft or I did not put the allen screw tight enough or I left a screw inside.

Meanwhile, we are happy to have heat back. I can't even describe the difference between 68 degree now vs 55 last night.
It is normal for the shaft to slide a little. Most of these motors actually have one or both of the bearings held tight by a spring, which will allow you to push the shaft in or out a little. That's for ball bearing motors. For motors with sleeve bearings, it's perfectly normal for the shaft to slide a little without even pushing on it.

Check the alignment of the blower wheel. Push the shaft in as far as it will go, the blower wheel should then sit very close to the motor mounting plate, but not touching obviously.

If the blower wheel is too far in it may rub against the mounting plate, if it is too far out it may rub against the internal part of the housing.

Although this is probably unlikely, check for any debris or accumulated gunk inside the blower housing on the boiler.]]> http://www.dslreports.com/forum/remark,21305617 Tue, 21 Oct 2008 22:16:07 EDT Re: Where to buy silicone sealant for boiler blower assembly http://www.dslreports.com/forum/remark,21303056 jack b : I see you have the requisite last-resort-fine-adjustment tool:
:D
]]> http://www.dslreports.com/forum/remark,21303056 Tue, 21 Oct 2008 14:13:45 EDT Re: Where to buy silicone sealant for boiler blower assembly http://www.dslreports.com/forum/remark,21300235 Langning : The hardware store didn't a plug with 3 pig-tails so I made 1 from a computer power cable... The blower wheel was really tight and wouldn't spin (freely). I unscrewed the little allen screw and I needed a little PB Blaster to break it lose; naturally I sprayed PB Blaster onto the shaft inside front motor housing... On reassembling the blower wheel, I noticed the shaft slide in/out the motor housing a little.

Put my power back on and the wheel didn't spin and no hum either. So I shut off the power again and gave the wheel a little spin. It must be my good PB Blaster lubricated some internal component; all the sudden, the wheel span freely. Put the power back on, the blower wheel was blowing literally across the whole room. It had a nice sound and everything was indicating the motor and the run capacitor are good.

So I decided not to pick up the new capacitor and put the blower unit back on and waited 4 hours for the silicone sealant to cure (supposedly 24 hrs). The boiler started and flame ignited and hot water circulated, we got heat finally...

I still have a problem and will require me to disassemble the blower unit again when I receive my new motor/capacitor of ebay. During the blower spin up (2 seconds) and spin down (4-6 seconds) after the boiler is shut off, I hear clicking/small object bouncing sounds from the blower housing like the blower wheel is hitting something. I don't know if it is related the sliding shaft or I did not put the allen screw tight enough or I left a screw inside.

Meanwhile, we are happy to have heat back. I can't even describe the difference between 68 degree now vs 55 last night.
Click for full size
Click for full size
]]> http://www.dslreports.com/forum/remark,21300235 Mon, 20 Oct 2008 23:45:55 EDT Re: Where to buy silicone sealant for boiler blower assembly http://www.dslreports.com/forum/remark,21300205 SandShark : It's also likely it's not the motor or the capacitor. The squirrel cage they use on those draft inducers (as you can see in the photo) aren't made out of the best steel. One of the byproducts of combustion is H2O (water), so the blower wheels will literally disintegrate inside the housing due to rust. Have you taken the assembly out of the boiler and looked at the squirrel cage?

As far as the high temperature silicone sealant, most auto parts stores sell it. As far as the capacitor, the specifications should be printed or etched on the capacitor.]]> http://www.dslreports.com/forum/remark,21300205 Mon, 20 Oct 2008 23:38:40 EDT Re: Where to buy silicone sealant for boiler blower assembly http://www.dslreports.com/forum/remark,21298532 Tyreman : That capacitor is held on with a bracket.
A refrigeration supply house may have the capacitor u need.
They stock hundreds of types.
As long as the electrical characteristics are the same.
--
Southern Ontario,Canada]]> http://www.dslreports.com/forum/remark,21298532 Mon, 20 Oct 2008 18:06:51 EDT Re: Where to buy silicone sealant for boiler blower assembly http://www.dslreports.com/forum/remark,21297864 Doctor Olds :
said by ImaDuffer264 See Profile :

Maybe I should be dragged to the street and stoned to death :huh:.
Only if that will make you feel better. :hmm: j/k
--
What’s the point of owning a supercar if you can’t scare yourself stupid from time to time?]]> http://www.dslreports.com/forum/remark,21297864 Mon, 20 Oct 2008 16:00:31 EDT Re: Where to buy silicone sealant for boiler blower assembly http://www.dslreports.com/forum/remark,21297804 ImaDuffer264 : Um... cdru See Profile already got me on that. Again, my mistake. Maybe I should be dragged to the street and stoned to death :huh:. I'll try to read the posts more carefully in the future :D.]]> http://www.dslreports.com/forum/remark,21297804 Mon, 20 Oct 2008 15:49:08 EDT Re: Where to buy silicone sealant for boiler blower assembly http://www.dslreports.com/forum/remark,21297746 Doctor Olds :
said by ImaDuffer264 See Profile :

Any of the high temp RTV silicone sealants I have ever seen are red in color and are good to 600 degrees F.

The GE RTV108 is just a standard everyday silicone
GE 108 RTV is the exact specification from the OP's installation sheet and it is rated for 400 F.

Regards,

Doctor Olds
--
What’s the point of owning a supercar if you can’t scare yourself stupid from time to time?]]> http://www.dslreports.com/forum/remark,21297746 Mon, 20 Oct 2008 15:38:57 EDT Re: Where to buy silicone sealant for boiler blower assembly http://www.dslreports.com/forum/remark,21297183 Langning : Boss just gave me the OK to go home and I will stop by the hardware store to pick up the high heat sealant and an electric cord with a split end so that I can hot wire the motor to the receptacle outlet to test the motor.

My current question is: can I remove the "run capacitor" and still run the test 1?]]> http://www.dslreports.com/forum/remark,21297183 Mon, 20 Oct 2008 13:46:06 EDT Re: Where to buy silicone sealant for boiler blower assembly http://www.dslreports.com/forum/remark,21297135 ImaDuffer264 : I stand corrected. That's what happens when you only skim over a post. Certainly if Weil McLain states that it's OK to use then it most certainly is.

I actually installed a Weil McLain boiler about 25 years ago in my old house and I one time had to get into the flue box by removing the cover. At that time they specifically mentioned high temp RTV. I believe it was Dow Corning 736 that they recommended? ]]> http://www.dslreports.com/forum/remark,21297135 Mon, 20 Oct 2008 13:35:13 EDT Re: Where to buy silicone sealant for boiler blower assembly http://www.dslreports.com/forum/remark,21297104 Langning : I find a Weil McLain distributor in Framingham, MA that carries motor capacitor but I don't have the boiler model or the spec on the capacitor to look up for the part#. I am leaving work early now and bring the motor unit to see if I can buy the replacement capacitor.

The motor I bought on Ebay this weekend will probably take days to arrive and my family can't endure low-50s temperature inside house 1 more night.]]> http://www.dslreports.com/forum/remark,21297104 Mon, 20 Oct 2008 13:29:47 EDT Re: Where to buy silicone sealant for boiler blower assembly http://www.dslreports.com/forum/remark,21296753 cdru :
said by ImaDuffer264 See Profile :

The GE RTV108 is just a standard everyday silicone and I would not use it in high temp applications around a boiler.
I'd guess that Weil McLain knows the limitations of GE 108 and where it might be applied and wouldn't explicitly mention it if it wasn't suited.]]> http://www.dslreports.com/forum/remark,21296753 Mon, 20 Oct 2008 12:15:59 EDT Re: Where to buy silicone sealant for boiler blower assembly http://www.dslreports.com/forum/remark,21296528 Langning : Upon looking up the net, I find this

»toad.net/~jsmeenen/motor.html
If you have an electrical failure where the motor smokes or stinks it is probably done. If the motor gets hot it will usually shut off because it has a thermostat inside to protect it. A motor that was normally working ok and suddenly gets hot may have a bad run capacitor. The run capacitor is a round or flat silver can rated at 5 to 7.5 Mfd (micro farads) for most 208-230 volt motors. To test a run capacitor use this test chart NEVER an ohm meter. If this is the case you can usually just replace the capacitor and your problems may go away. Only single phase motors have run capacitors, three phase motors do not. Some motors for belt drive applications will have a start capacitor but no run capacitor. Some larger motors will have both.
So now I do think I may very likely have a bad "run capacitor".]]> http://www.dslreports.com/forum/remark,21296528 Mon, 20 Oct 2008 11:27:13 EDT Re: Where to buy silicone sealant for boiler blower assembly http://www.dslreports.com/forum/remark,21296365 ImaDuffer264 : Any of the high temp RTV silicone sealants I have ever seen are red in color and are good to 600 degrees F. Dow Corning, GE, Sprayon, etc all make it. The GE RTV108 is just a standard everyday silicone and I would not use it in high temp applications around a boiler.

Reading further it looks like the OP has found a product that will work fine.]]> http://www.dslreports.com/forum/remark,21296365 Mon, 20 Oct 2008 10:56:43 EDT Re: Where to buy silicone sealant for boiler blower assembly http://www.dslreports.com/forum/remark,21296278 Langning :
said by TheMG See Profile :

In case you don't know, the metal can that's strapped to the side of the motor is the capacitor.

Two steps to determine if the motor is OK:

1) power up the motor, give the rotor a bit of a spin with your hand, if the motor starts running then proceed to the next step

2) use a multimeter and test for continuity of the start winding, if you have good continuity, then the motor is OK and the capacitor is bad
I thought the piggy thing is some type of thermal shut-off device when the motor body gets too hot.

I disconnected the whole assembly last night and the motor is connected to the capacitor with 2 wire clips. Can I unplug the capacitor clips and then hot wire the motor to run your test 1?

I am confused as what to do with step 2. I have 5 wires to the motor -- 1 hot, 1 neutral, 1 ground, and 2 wires clips to the capacitor. Where to put my multimeter to test for continuity of the "start winding"?]]> http://www.dslreports.com/forum/remark,21296278 Mon, 20 Oct 2008 10:39:16 EDT Re: Where to buy silicone sealant for boiler blower assembly http://www.dslreports.com/forum/remark,21296211 Langning : I called my local ACE Hardware in Hudson, MA and they have "Rutland High Heat Silicone Sealant" in stock. I will pick one up after work today.

]]> http://www.dslreports.com/forum/remark,21296211 Mon, 20 Oct 2008 10:26:29 EDT Re: Where to buy silicone sealant for boiler blower assembly http://www.dslreports.com/forum/remark,21295195 Doctor Olds : GE Silicone RTV108 Clear Silicone
»www.amazon.com/dp/B000LDHRJ8?smi···Code=asn
quote:
GE Silicone RTV108 Clear Silicone Caulks Clear Silicone Size 10.1 Ounces Premium Milspec Industrial Caulk to 400 Degrees Fahrenheit


[att=1]

Grainger (below) has both:

Are you close to this location?

WW Grainger
209 Brooks St
Worcester, MA
(508) 853-7300

+++++++++++++++++++++++

GENERAL ELECTRIC RTV Silicone Model #IS808
»www.grainger.com/Grainger/items/4UH07
quote:
Silicone, Container Size 10.1 Ounces, Style General Purpose Industrial Sealant, Color Clear, Economy, 400 Degrees Fahrenheit


[att=2]

Silicone,Clear,10.1 Oz RTV 108
»www.grainger.com/Grainger/items/4UH12
quote:
Clear Silicone, Size 10.1 Ounces, Premium Milspec Industrial Caulk to 400 Degrees Fahrenheit


[att=3]

--
What’s the point of owning a supercar if you can’t scare yourself stupid from time to time?
  
]]> http://www.dslreports.com/forum/remark,21295195 Mon, 20 Oct 2008 01:19:41 EDT Re: Where to buy silicone sealant for boiler blower assembly http://www.dslreports.com/forum/remark,21295185 TheMG : For the silicon I'd probably use high-temperature silicon. I'm assuming this goes on the flue box so it will get kind of hot.

It shouldn't be too hard to find. HVAC stores should have it I think.]]> http://www.dslreports.com/forum/remark,21295185 Mon, 20 Oct 2008 01:15:49 EDT Re: Where to buy silicone sealant for boiler blower assembly http://www.dslreports.com/forum/remark,21295173 TheMG :
said by Langning See Profile :

The blower motor on my Weil McLain boiler stopped working. It just hummed and got really hot on the housing. The boiler wouldn't start because the blower is not working.
You probably didn't need to do that. The motor is likely still fine, it sounds like the capacitor has failed. Replacement capacitors can easily be obtained at most HVAC supply stores. You might be able to get one from the manufacturer too.

In case you don't know, the metal can that's strapped to the side of the motor is the capacitor.

Two steps to determine if the motor is OK:

1) power up the motor, give the rotor a bit of a spin with your hand, if the motor starts running then proceed to the next step

2) use a multimeter and test for continuity of the start winding, if you have good continuity, then the motor is OK and the capacitor is bad]]> http://www.dslreports.com/forum/remark,21295173 Mon, 20 Oct 2008 01:08:34 EDT Where to buy silicone sealant for boiler blower assembly http://www.dslreports.com/forum/remark,21295058 Langning : The blower motor on my Weil McLain boiler stopped working. It just hummed and got really hot on the housing. The boiler wouldn't start because the blower is not working.

I disconnected the inducer motor assembly. The whole OEM unit is more than $250 (pic 1). However, I found and bought a new Fasco motor (only) for $43 shipped. And in order to put the whole unit back on the blower housing, I need "silicone sealant (GE 108 or 808; D.C. 732 or 700)" according the picture 2.

My question is where to buy this silicone sealant? Brand? Where (from a B&M store)?
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]]> http://www.dslreports.com/forum/remark,21295058 Mon, 20 Oct 2008 00:24:44 EDT