clevere1
Premium
join:2002-01-06
Vancouver, WA
 ·Qwest.net
| Fixing holes in the wall and reusing them?
Hi guys! When we moved into our new place, the previous owner had "hidden" a towel rack issue. The screws that hold the rack into the wall had come out. They used those screw type anchors, the largest available (about a 1/2" hole). I would LOVE to reuse the same spot on the wall to reattach the towel rack, but so far I've had no luck in filling the holes in the wall and allowing me to reuse them, hell, I can't even get the area strong enough to not push into the wall by using gentle force. I don't have to reuse that area, I can relocate the towel rack no problem, but what would be a good method to fill the holes? Use that metal hole filler stuff? (I'd rather not, looks like lots of work) I've just been using hole filler ... and so far, nothing works... help?
If it was a large hole, I could handle that repair job, cut out and repair. But I'm trying to avoid cutting it out if at all possible.
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Where's th' DAFFY DUCK EXHIBIT?? |
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cdru
Go Colts
Premium,MVM
join:2003-05-14
Fort Wayne, IN
| said by clevere1  :If it was a large hole, I could handle that repair job, cut out and repair. But I'm trying to avoid cutting it out if at all possible. That's probably going to be your best bet unfortunately. If it's large enough that simply mudding over it doesn't fix it, but too small for a real patch, I think it's never going to have strength. I'd cut a several inch section out, put a backer piece of wood across the hole with a few drywall screws. Tape/mud as appropriate. |
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zen1
@optonline.net
| reply to clevere1
i'd say the best way is to cut out a section from stud to stud, 3/4" past the start of the wood, then put a 2x4 in that area, screw it into the studs, then you have something very secure to mount anything you want there, then put a patch, made from new sheetrock, over the opening, and screw it into the studs on each end, then just patch the cracks with joint compound.. i think you have a damaged piece of sheetrock in there, that's why a patch won't hold.. |
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Vinch
join:2007-10-24
Pointe-Claire, QC | reply to clevere1
You might have luck with winged plastic anchors or even large enough toggle bolts. If these fail, then I guess you'll have to go with plan B...
Good luck! |
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mattmag
Premium,ExMod 2000-03
join:2000-04-09
NW Illinois
clubs:
 ·Mediacom
1 edit | reply to clevere1
Like this one... |
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tp0d
yabbazooie
Premium
join:2001-02-13
Carnegie, PA
clubs: | reply to clevere1
I`ll have to agree with that zen guy... do it once and do it right!
-j
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if it aint broke, tweak it!!
currently on FiOS (kick aZZ!) |
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clevere1
Premium
join:2002-01-06
Vancouver, WA
·Qwest.net
| reply to clevere1
Ok Thanks guys. I'm all about making sure I do it right, BUT. If I replace the drywall I will want to use greenboard (the more mold resistant stuff), does anyone know if you have to buy a full sheet of the stuff (either drywall or greenboard) I don't need a FULL sheet....
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Where's th' DAFFY DUCK EXHIBIT?? |
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robbin
Premium,MVM
join:2000-09-21
Leander, TX | Normally you have to buy a full sheet -- Lowes has regular sheetrock cut into 2 x 2 foot pieces. Not cheap compared to a full sheet but it you only need a little it's not bad. |
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Candoo3
join:2005-01-24
·TekSavvy Solutions..
| reply to clevere1
Just an FYI for fixing *some* holes easily. In the apt's I look after I get many holes caused by tenants. What has worked slick for me with little effort, say in the case of a door knob hole. Cut the loose pieces off, then chamfer cut the hole to take the edges off. Stuff the hole in the wall cavity with fibreglass insulation, keeping it maybe an inch below the hole, and to the sides of the hole. Using expanding foam, put in the nozzle til it touches the opposite wall in the cavity, and spray pulling the nozzle forward as you go. Judge yourself how much you need for it to expand to the surface of the hole you're fixing. Let it expand and dry overnight, then cut out the excess. You now have a good solid backing, and you can plaster patch with say Sheetrock20. |
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Candoo3
join:2005-01-24 | reply to Vinch
I use toggles all the time in the exact same situation with towel bars. Works slick. |
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zen1
@optonline.net
| said by Candoo3 :I use toggles all the time in the exact same situation with towel bars. Works slick. it seems this guy has damaged sheetrock, possibly from water damage, so that may not work... |
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sempergoofy
Premium
join:2001-07-06
Smyrna, GA
·AT&T Southeast
1 edit | reply to clevere1
hanger with hidden flanges |
said by clevere1 :Ok Thanks guys. I'm all about making sure I do it right, BUT. If I replace the drywall I will want to use greenboard (the more mold resistant stuff), does anyone know if you have to buy a full sheet of the stuff (either drywall or greenboard) I don't need a FULL sheet.... My local Home Depot sells small square sheets pre-cut for patch jobs (maybe 24"x24"). If you end up buying a full sheet, just remember that even though they come from the factory bundled two sheets together for strength during transport, the store sells them by the sheet. So you do not have to buy two sheets bundled. You can also cut the sheet you buy to some more reasonable size in the parking lot before transport to your home if necessary.
Take a look at this illustration which illustrates in part what zen1 was describing minus the excellent suggestion of adding the 2x4 between the studs to provide a sturdy surface for mounting the towel rack. The suggestion of going all the way to the next stud over instead of adhering the piece as in the illustration is what allows for adding a 2x4 for additional screw surface.
Because the patch hole will be relatively small, I also suggest that instead of trying to toenail the 2x4 into place between the studs that you use decking hangers with hidden flanges to hold that 2x4. I am providing a picture of one that is similar, but I could not find a pic of the exact one that is 2x4 sized. You can put one screw in each to hold them and pivot them out to allow insertion of the 2x4. Then rotate the hangers and board in so that it is flush with the studs and add a second screw to the flange that extends above the top of the 2x4. (You find these in the decking lumber section of the Home Depot.)
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nohup rm -fr /& |
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clevere1
Premium
join:2002-01-06
Vancouver, WA
·Qwest.net
| reply to zen1
said by zen1 :said by Candoo3 :I use toggles all the time in the exact same situation with towel bars. Works slick. it seems this guy has damaged sheetrock, possibly from water damage, so that may not work... Uhh .. No water damage. It's just a hole in the drywall from someone pulling out a screw-in type hanger. |
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mattmag
Premium,ExMod 2000-03
join:2000-04-09
NW Illinois
clubs: |
Your easiest repair by far is going to be the toggle bolts. Stick 'em in and you're in biz! |
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clevere1
Premium
join:2002-01-06
Vancouver, WA
·Qwest.net
| said by mattmag :Your easiest repair by far is going to be the toggle bolts. Stick 'em in and you're in biz! Yeah, I worry about them rusting in the bathroom... |
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horsemouth
Please Clarify My CSP
Premium
join:2002-03-13
canada
·Eastlink Cable
| said by clevere1 :said by mattmag :Your easiest repair by far is going to be the toggle bolts. Stick 'em in and you're in biz! Yeah, I worry about them rusting in the bathroom... If they rust you have bigger problems.
They will last until the the next bath renovation. |
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Candoo3
join:2005-01-24
·TekSavvy Solutions..
1 edit | reply to clevere1
If you're worried, and it is going to show, then don't use the bolt that is supplied. Buy separate stainless bolts and use those. The supplied bolts are common sizes: 1/8, 3/16, 1/4. If the toggle is just going to secure the mounting plate that the bar brackets attach to, don't worry at all. If you have that much moisture in the bath, the bar finish is going to deteriorate long before the bolt head rusts. The part of the toggle in the wall won't rust as it's in the wall.
Edit: (The toggle end will fit snug thru the 1/2" hole. It sounds like screw in Zip-its were previously used, leaving a 1/2" hole.) |
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whizkid3
Premium,MVM
join:2002-02-21
Queens, NY
·Earthlink Cable Mo..
1 edit | reply to sempergoofy
said by sempergoofy :Because the patch hole will be relatively small, I also suggest that instead of trying to toenail the 2x4 into place between the studs that you use decking hangers with hidden flanges to hold that 2x4. Of course, you could always use a drill bit and screws instead of toe-nailing, or instead of decking hangars, which IMHO, seems like a really elegant solution, where only a simple one is needed.
The toggle bolt idea, is not really wise. Holding up a towel rack, as many homeowners know here; it will be ripped out of the wall within a month, especially considering they would be used through 1/2 holes that already exist.
Do it right, and you won't end up doing it twice. Cut a section out the drywall from the middle of one stud to the next. Put a 2/4 backer board between the two studs, tape, spackle and paint. Then you have a really strong surface to mount your towel racks on with ordinary wood screws. |
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Candoo3
join:2005-01-24
·TekSavvy Solutions..
| said by whizkid3 :The toggle bolt idea, is not really wise. Holding up a towel rack, as many homeowners know here; it will be ripped out of the wall within a month, especially considering they would be used through 1/2 holes that already exist. I've used 3/16 toggles in the apt buildings I maintain, for the past 15 years. I've never had any of them pull out or damage the walls, and some have been in for 15 years. These apts take a lot of abuse by tenants. When expanded, they grip the inner drywall by approx 2". They are strong enough and won't pull out unless a person stood on the bracket or maybe used the bar to do chin-ups, and the bar would give before the brackets.  |
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capecoddah
join:2005-03-18
Yarmouth Port, MA | reply to clevere1
I replaced 2 useless 24" towel bars with 1 48" stainless steel safety bar. Screwed into studs, the thing is great. They come in 16" increments. |
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