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Florida Amateur Radio Month »
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KA3SGM
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West Chester, PA
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reply to Gbcue
Re: Mobile Powered by Cigarette Adapter

It all depends on the vehicle.

My truck has 6 Cigarette lighter sockets, all wired together to a single 20 Amp fuse(yes it's ludicrous, but I didn't design it that way).

2 in the dashboard, 1 in the center glovebox/armrest, 2 in the second row seating area, and 1 more at the back tailgate.

Actually, they are all cigarette lighter sockets, but there are actually no cigarette lighters anywhere, or ashtrays either.

I don't smoke, neither does my wife, and if I caught any of my 3 kids smoking, well, ........

LET'S GET THIS STRAIGHT, NOBODY SMOKES IN MY TRUCK !!

Needles to say, my truck is a SMOKE FREE environment.

MY laptop Computer draws a maximum of 130 watts, and using the recommended voltage converter, it still works fine, connected to one of the front cigarette lighter adapters.

Needless to say, you will notice some degree of voltage drop, but the closest lighter socket to the fuse panel, and the shortest/heaviest gauge wire you can use, and your installation will probably work out OK.

Now don't get me into what effects that a high strength RF field will have with your Airbag controller, Anti-Lock Brakes, or Traction-Control System......

There are a lot's of RF sensitive systems on modern automobiles, always beware of what else your RF could affect.
--
ROCK TIL' SUNSET


joshb
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said by KA3SGM See Profile :

Now don't get me into what effects that a high strength RF field will have with your Airbag controller, Anti-Lock Brakes, or Traction-Control System......

There are a lot's of RF sensitive systems on modern automobiles, always beware of what else your RF could affect.
This is exactly why as a radio pro and also now a ham.. The only place I can and do recommend sticking radio's is in the trunk of a car. Or on trucks I sometimes get creative depending on the back seat arrangement..

As for the OP question... Please do NOT use the cigarette lighter adapter to power your radio... And as far as glass mounts they are not worth the trouble. I would use a mag mount before a glass mount.

Trust me when I say doing this right is well worth it. If you do not know how to wire it or just un-sure of what it takes go to your local radio shop.

A couple notes there before you let them touch your vehicle. Make sure you speak to the actual install tech. Not the sales person. Also ask if you can see the shop... It should be really clean. Sterile is next to god'ness in this type of work. If the sales person refuses to let you talk to the tech run for your life. The only thing worse than a know it all sales person is going out to your vehicle after words and finding nothing was put where you asked. and than 6 months later needing a tow truck due to the Tech messing up... I have had more than a couple walk In's in places where I have worked because the local ham decided to go to best buy or where ever he could get the best price. I have seen some really simple wiring jobs turn into really big disaster really quick.

The shop I am at right now when you bring your vehicle for the appointment I spend the first 15 minutes with every customer in there vehicle discussing where to put stuff. and normally another 15 minutes at end answering questions and doing a basic once over of how to use and any issues that might need to be dealt with.

As much as I hate doing customer service at the end of day it makes everyone's life a lot easier and the customer walk away smiling and happy.

If done right this is one time expense that will provide you with many years of use of your HAM radio.

Sorry for the long rant....

Regards

Joshb
--
R.I.P Mom.


Splitpair
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join:2000-07-29
Cow Towne
·T-Mobile US

said by joshb See Profile :

Now don't get me into what effects that a high strength RF field will have with your Airbag controller, Anti-Lock Brakes, or Traction-Control System......

There are a lot's of RF sensitive systems on modern automobiles, always beware of what else your RF could affect.
I fully understand where you are coming from however keep in mind there are literally, on a daily basis dozens if not hundreds of mid-power 35 or so watt rigs are seatbelt installed in rentals without any problems and yes the cigar lighter is the most common power source.

Wayne
--
If you cannot fix it with a buttset and some beanies you ain't a technician


joshb
Don't sweat the small stuff.
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said by Splitpair See Profile :

said by joshb See Profile :

Now don't get me into what effects that a high strength RF field will have with your Airbag controller, Anti-Lock Brakes, or Traction-Control System......

There are a lot's of RF sensitive systems on modern automobiles, always beware of what else your RF could affect.
I fully understand where you are coming from however keep in mind there are literally, on a daily basis dozens if not hundreds of mid-power 35 or so watt rigs are seatbelt installed in rentals without any problems and yes the cigar lighter is the most common power source.

Wayne
Hey Wayne,

I am more than aware of than of that fact... A short term rental is one thing... A long term install is completely different... My understanding of the OP's post was a long term deal.

Your going to have to cut me some slack here... I might have ham call sign... But I know squat about ham culture... I am a radio pro and I know nothing about how hams choose to do things... Feel more than free to put me in my place... cause I know I am going to deserve it.
--
R.I.P Mom.


drjim
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join:2000-06-13
Long Beach, CA
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1 edit
A lot of hams tend to be incredibly cheap...not frugal, not cost-conscious , but downright CHEAP!
Others go the other way, and spend more than required to do whatever the job at hand requires.
I tend to do things the "right" way, and my last car had the power leads run directly to the battery, with fuses in both leads, and an NMO mount in the middle of the roof for the antenna.
BUT....I'm not against using a mag-mount and a cigar-lighter for power when I have to. I *do* strap the radio in so it won't go flying in a panic stop, but then I don't use it that way in the car every day because it would interfere with use of the passenger seat.
My current car has a decent 20 Amp accessory receptacle that I use to power the radio, and I've installed a Diamond hatchback mount for the antenna. I prefer to only take a radio with me at certain times, as opposed to having one permanently mounted in the car.
--
One man's Magic is another man's Engineering.


Gbcue
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1 edit
If I had an older car, go ahead, drill holes.

But my car is *brand new*. It's less than 2 months old. I DO NOT want to void any warranty by drilling holes, or attaching anything that might damage the weather stripping, etc.
--
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KA3SGM
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West Chester, PA
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I have the main unit of an Icom 2710H(2M/70CM) Dual Band 50w/35w rig) mounted under the drivers seat, less than 1/2 of an inch from the Airbag Controller.

The antenna is a roughly 19" 2m quarter wave and 440 3/4 wave, attached to an NMO mount, on the center of the roof of the truck.

Maintaining the Times Microwave LMR-240 coax(100%foil, 95% braid), and a negative battery connection to one of the drivers side seat belt bolts, I haven't had any serious issues with any of the on board computer systems.

The antenna however is mounted on the center roof, keeping the main RF radiator(antenna) with a solid sheet of steel between the antenna and any on board computer systems.

The actual RF source(antenna) mounted behind a second solid sheet of steel, between it and the actual powertrain control module (PCM).

The radio seems to have been the culprit in setting an unexplained "Check Engine" light only one time, being an Oxygen Sensor fault, and I has never seen the problem repeated again, in more than 10 years.

The radio in this instance is powered off of one of the Trailer wiring terminals on the under hood fuse center, and grounded at the closest seat belt anchor bolt.

I believe initial power grounding/ and significant shielding between the radio and antenna, makes a really big difference.
--
ROCK TIL' SUNSET
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