http://www.dslreports.com/forum/r22649842 en Fri, 04 Dec 2009 11:39:47 EDT Fri, 04 Dec 2009 11:39:47 EDT http://www.dslreports.com/forum/remark,22650136 tp0d : Cut a hole in the drywall if you dont have enough room to spin the valve. (whats a giant knot? the handle?)

Dirt legs (t-trap) are pretty much useless anymore, due to cleaner gas, and more filtering at regulator points. Not needed. I do still install them on higher draw devices, like furnaces and instant water heaters, but again, its not really necessary.

-j
--
if it aint broke, tweak it!!
currently on FiOS (kick aZZ!)]]> http://www.dslreports.com/forum/remark,22650136 Fri, 03 Jul 2009 14:46:01 EDT http://www.dslreports.com/forum/remark,22650124 Langning : I found this picture on the net and it is probably the setup I want to go with. However, the pipe from the floor is very close to the wall and I may not have any clearance to join the shutoff (I need one that doesn't have giant knot).

What is the requirement to have t-trap/capped extension at the bottom of any vertical rise?

]]> http://www.dslreports.com/forum/remark,22650124 Fri, 03 Jul 2009 14:42:27 EDT http://www.dslreports.com/forum/remark,22649968 tp0d : Wow ya dont see too many hardpipe installs anymore. Someone wanted to save money..

CCat is correct in his advice. Do not overtighten or loosen a fitting, not good.

I would recommend installing a new style ball valve in there, as you're shutting down the main gas anyways. Install the valve right off the floor, and run the flex line from that. (prolly a 2-3 footer) you dont need any elbows or unions, as the flex's connectors are the union in the line. Run the flex line behind the range, not into the broiler area.

hope ya got a lot of room in that broiler area, or you're part orangutan hehh

-j
--
if it aint broke, tweak it!!
currently on FiOS (kick aZZ!)]]> http://www.dslreports.com/forum/remark,22649968 Fri, 03 Jul 2009 14:01:47 EDT http://www.dslreports.com/forum/remark,22649891 CCat : The fittings are reusable.
You might be able to tighten it another 1/2 turn depending how tight it is now (but that you have to do by feel and I would advise against it). You can never loosen a fitting, you're asking for leaks. Your best bet is to take the fittings completely off, clean them up and reinstall them.
Be sure to turn off the main gas as the shutoff in the pic is downstream of what you want to work on.
FYI...The coupling you refer to is called a union.
--
Sometimes My Mind Wanders.....Other Times It Leaves Completely!]]> http://www.dslreports.com/forum/remark,22649891 Fri, 03 Jul 2009 13:42:57 EDT http://www.dslreports.com/forum/remark,22649842 Langning : A few wall tiles behind our stove are peeling off the wall and the gas range is in the way to reattach them. I am planning to replace the hard pipe with flexible gas line so that I can easily pull out/push back the gas range during the tile/grout work.

The space between the shut off and the gas valve is too short to run the flex line. So I am thinking remove the 2 90-degree elbows and make the arrowed elbow to point to right. Or remove all 3 elbows and place the shut off point up.

If I am to keep the arrowed elbow, can it be tighten 180 degree or loosen 180 degree without completely removing it? Are the elbows, shut off, and coupling joint reusable?

How do you want to tackle this with less trips to the hardware store? I do own 2 small pipe wrenches & a bottle of gas pipe dope.

]]> http://www.dslreports.com/forum/remark,22649842 Fri, 03 Jul 2009 13:31:19 EDT