TheMG
join:2007-09-04
Edmonton, AB
 ·TELUS
| reply to Anonymous_
Re: Daisy chaining power strips
Large 30"CRT Trinitron ~240W
5.1 system ~30W
Playstation 3 ~200W
playstation 2 USA ~45W
playstation 2 Japan ~45W
External HDD ~15W
Cable Box ~15W
Computer (assuming a high-end gaming PC under worst load condition) ~500W
Fridge (full size) (let's assume and old power hog of) ~500W
another 5.1 system for my computer ~30W
and one LCD Monitor ~60W
------------------------------
Estimated max power consumption: 1680W
Current draw: 14.6A at 115V
Now this is not taking into account power factor, but assuming that it's not too bad, then if he is using 20A power strips and 20A plugs (the ones with the right angle prongs), he'd be ok under worst load conditions, everything turned on drawing max power, or if the loads are split up between more than one 15A outlets then he's ok too. |
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Anonymous_
Anonymous
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4 edits | said by TheMG  :Large 30"CRT Trinitron ~240W 5.1 system ~30W Playstation 3 ~200W playstation 2 USA ~45W playstation 2 Japan ~45W External HDD ~15W Cable Box ~15W Computer (assuming a high-end gaming PC under worst load condition) ~500W Fridge (full size) (let's assume and old power hog of) ~500W another 5.1 system for my computer ~30W and one LCD Monitor ~60W ------------------------------ Estimated max power consumption: 1680W Current draw: 14.6A at 115V Now this is not taking into account power factor, but assuming that it's not too bad, then if he is using 20A power strips and 20A plugs (the ones with the right angle prongs), he'd be ok under worst load conditions, everything turned on drawing max power, or if the loads are split up between more than one 15A outlets then he's ok too. US ps2 system is 95watts max japan is 45 watts max
one of the 5.1systems use upto 250Watts(that is what it shows on the label)
GFCI 20amp
Fridge is pulged into the outlite
the rest is on a belkin power strip
also add 15watts for the Ethernet over powerline yes it works pulged into the surge protector |
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Gbcue
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| reply to TheMG
said by TheMG :Large 30"CRT Trinitron ~240W 5.1 system ~30W Playstation 3 ~200W playstation 2 USA ~45W playstation 2 Japan ~45W External HDD ~15W Cable Box ~15W Computer (assuming a high-end gaming PC under worst load condition) ~500W Fridge (full size) (let's assume and old power hog of) ~500W another 5.1 system for my computer ~30W and one LCD Monitor ~60W ------------------------------ Estimated max power consumption: 1680W Current draw: 14.6A at 115V Now this is not taking into account power factor, but assuming that it's not too bad, then if he is using 20A power strips and 20A plugs (the ones with the right angle prongs), he'd be ok under worst load conditions, everything turned on drawing max power, or if the loads are split up between more than one 15A outlets then he's ok too. Let's try this again.
Large 30"CRT Trinitron - 240W
5.1 system - 500W
Playstation 3 - 200W
playstation 2 USA - 95W
playstation 2 Japan - 45W
External HDD - 15W
Cable Box - 15W
Computer - 600W
Fridge (full size) - 500W
another 5.1 system for my computer - 500W
and one LCD Monitor - 100W
------------------------------------
Total: 2810W @ 120V AC = 23A
@ 110V AC = 25.5A
Over if all are used at the same time.
I don't know about you guys, but my 5.1 systems are a minimum of 500W RMS.
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Anonymous_
Anonymous
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3 edits | said by Gbcue :said by TheMG :Large 30"CRT Trinitron ~240W 5.1 system ~30W Playstation 3 ~200W playstation 2 USA ~45W playstation 2 Japan ~45W External HDD ~15W Cable Box ~15W Computer (assuming a high-end gaming PC under worst load condition) ~500W Fridge (full size) (let's assume and old power hog of) ~500W another 5.1 system for my computer ~30W and one LCD Monitor ~60W ------------------------------ Estimated max power consumption: 1680W Current draw: 14.6A at 115V Now this is not taking into account power factor, but assuming that it's not too bad, then if he is using 20A power strips and 20A plugs (the ones with the right angle prongs), he'd be ok under worst load conditions, everything turned on drawing max power, or if the loads are split up between more than one 15A outlets then he's ok too. Let's try this again. Large 30"CRT Trinitron - 240W 5.1 system - 500W Playstation 3 - 200W playstation 2 USA - 95W playstation 2 Japan - 45W External HDD - 15W Cable Box - 15W Computer - 600W Fridge (full size) - 500W another 5.1 system for my computer - 500W and one LCD Monitor - 100W ------------------------------------ Total: 2810W @ 120V AC = 23A @ 110V AC = 25.5A Over if all are used at the same time. I don't know about you guys, but my 5.1 systems are a minimum of 500W RMS. you do not need 500watts to drive speakers
my wal-mart amp drives a 10in subwoofer (4ohms)and two large 2" Air horn Tweeter /8in Woffers-speakers (6ohms)
it's max watt is 55
i tryed Frying the amp by connecting a lot of speakers but was unsuccessful  |
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pnjunction
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join:2008-01-24
Toronto, ON
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| said by Anonymous_ :you do not need 500watts to drive speakers my wal-mart amp You might if it's not from wal-mart. :P Sorry couldn't resist.
My Logitech z-5300 set is rated for peak 560W and the z-5500 is over 1000w. That said, there's no way you could sanely crank out all of that power. With a decent source (sources that are weak I have to turn them up) I can't even get close to halfway before it's uncomfortably loud. Full power it would be painful and the cops would probably show up. |
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Anonymous_
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3 edits | said by pnjunction :said by Anonymous_ :you do not need 500watts to drive speakers my wal-mart amp You might if it's not from wal-mart. :P Sorry couldn't resist. My Logitech z-5300 set is rated for peak 560W and the z-5500 is over 1000w. That said, there's no way you could sanely crank out all of that power. With a decent source (sources that are weak I have to turn them up) I can't even get close to halfway before it's uncomfortably loud. Full power it would be painful and the cops would probably show up. let's not for get my SubWoofer is a true sub as it rated to 18hz your is only rated to 35hz
yours is a Woofer and not a sub-woofer
sub is rated for 300WATT RMS (1,000MAX PMPO) other two are 150watt RMS each (300MAX PMPO) |
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TheMG
join:2007-09-04
Edmonton, AB
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| reply to TimOnTheRoad
About speaker systems:
1) how often do you actually "crank it right up"?
2) unless specifically stated as RMS, it is safe to assume output power rating is peak power
3) even if you have an amplifier rated for 200Wrms, you will NEVER achieve this level of output power with normal audio, only with a pure sine wave will you normally achieve this, how many people here listen to a 1kHz tone cranked to the max?
4) a lot of consumer audio products are overrated
Under normal listening conditions it is safe to assume a home theater receiver uses between 30W-50W on average. Maybe a little more if you're listening to an action packed movie with the subwoofer cranked.
To put things into perspective, sitting just a few feet from the front of a speaker:
1W is about normal
10W is loud
100W - your ears start bleeding (figure of speech of course)
1000W - plenty of power for a small dance hall, cracks start forming in the walls of your house and the neighbors a block down the road call the cops on you
10000W - enough power for a rock concert, structural integrity of your house is at risk |
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Subaru
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Greenwich, CT
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| reply to pnjunction
said by pnjunction :said by Anonymous_ :you do not need 500watts to drive speakers my wal-mart amp You might if it's not from wal-mart. :P Sorry couldn't resist. My Logitech z-5300 set is rated for peak 560W and the z-5500 is over 1000w. That said, there's no way you could sanely crank out all of that power. With a decent source (sources that are weak I have to turn them up) I can't even get close to halfway before it's uncomfortably loud. Full power it would be painful and the cops would probably show up. Cool I have the Z-580's
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Ender3rd
join:2001-07-15
East Granby, CT | reply to TimOnTheRoad
All of my power strips come from China. They would NEVER sell anything that could be used unsafely!
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daveinpoway
Premium
join:2006-07-03
Poway, CA | Not sure if this is still a problem, but, a few years back, there was a situation where some of this imported stuff had counterfeit UL-approval markings on it- the equipment had never been submitted to UL. |
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Anonymous_
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| reply to Subaru
said by Subaru :said by pnjunction :said by Anonymous_ :you do not need 500watts to drive speakers my wal-mart amp You might if it's not from wal-mart. :P Sorry couldn't resist. My Logitech z-5300 set is rated for peak 560W and the z-5500 is over 1000w. That said, there's no way you could sanely crank out all of that power. With a decent source (sources that are weak I have to turn them up) I can't even get close to halfway before it's uncomfortably loud. Full power it would be painful and the cops would probably show up. Cool I have the Z-580's just do not play woofer cooker song on the logitech LOL as you will blow that 6.5" mid-woofer |
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Ender3rd
join:2001-07-15
East Granby, CT
·Cox HSI
| reply to daveinpoway
That would not surprise me. There have also been instances where products have been submitted for FCC Part 15 compliance, and approved, but then the actual marketed devices have been imported and distributed without the compliant RFI filtering installed. It certainly saves the manufacturer money, but it rips up the RF spectrum in the typical suburban neighborhood with all sorts of buzzy noises.
Having disassembled a few very flimsy surge suppressor power strips I am amazed that they carried the UL approval marking. The contact surfaces where the plug slides in were made of very thin metal that easily breaks off with very little sideways pressure. Kind of scary when you could be pulling up to 15 amps through that connection.
I have made a few heavy duty portable power receptacles using standard AC outlets installed into enclosed metal receptacle boxes. They hold up very well, and I have a lot more faith in the Leviton outlets that are installed in there!
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Subaru
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| reply to Anonymous_
I've ran mine free air once because I thought I killed the system.. so I found the louded bass song and cranked it to the max.. never blew and I still have the system today.
I'd never do that again but it took a pounding.. and the heat sink got nice and toasty |
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Anonymous_
Anonymous
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| said by Subaru :the heat sink got nice and toasty that means you over heated it
my sub stays cold even with max power and highest setting on the EQ |
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Gbcue
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| said by Anonymous_ :said by Subaru :the heat sink got nice and toasty that means you over heated it my sub stays cold even with max power and highest setting on the EQ No it doesn't.
A warm HS means it's working. My subs HS gets warm as well.
Your subs are just cheap underpowered pieces of crap.
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Anonymous_
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1 edit | said by Gbcue :said by Anonymous_ :said by Subaru :the heat sink got nice and toasty that means you over heated it my sub stays cold even with max power and highest setting on the EQ No it doesn't. A warm HS means it's working. My subs HS gets warm as well. Your subs are just cheap underpowered pieces of crap. meh 10watts to a 10" subwoofer will move more air then a 6.5" subwoofer at 10 watts |
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Gbcue
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| said by Anonymous_ : meh 10watts to a 10" subwoofer will move more air then a 6.5" subwoofer at 10 watts Yes.
But a 10" sub at 200W will get warm for sure.
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Subaru
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| reply to Gbcue
said by Gbcue :said by Anonymous_ :said by Subaru :the heat sink got nice and toasty that means you over heated it my sub stays cold even with max power and highest setting on the EQ No it doesn't. A warm HS means it's working. My subs HS gets warm as well. Your subs are just cheap underpowered pieces of crap. Any amp I've seen and felt when not being underpowered will get warm when playing music.. mindyou when you say "Sub stays cold" it's not the sub but the amp and the amp provides amplification not only just to the sub but the other 5 speakers.
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SmokChsr
Who let the magic smoke out?
Premium
join:2006-03-17
Saint Augustine, FL | If you have any audio equipment that is rated in "Peak" power, rest assured it's a "inexpensive" substitute for the real thing.
All serious equipment is rated for "RMS" power.
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Anonymous_
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2 edits | said by SmokChsr :If you have any audio equipment that is rated in "Peak" power, rest assured it's a "inexpensive" substitute for the real thing. All serious equipment is rated for "RMS" power. the wal-mart amp has a toroidal core transformer as i opened it up to *see * what cheap parts are used
80 (95)VA to 120 (145) VA toroidal core transformer |
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