nklb
Premium
join:2000-11-17
Ann Arbor, MI
clubs:
| fixing (most) electrical outlets in a house
I have a house built in the mid 60s.
Whoever did the power wiring did a pretty poor job (except in the relatively newly finished basement living room.) there is a single 15A circuit that feeds a bathroom, 3 bedrooms (except for one wall of one of the bedrooms), a study, and a closet.
I will have to deal with the circuit itself later; there aren't enough people to fully use the line, although it certainly is non-ideal and is something I will want to fix.
My main problem is that almost all of the outlets in these bedrooms are not very tight in the wall- plugging an electrical cable in them causes the outlet to wobble and tilt backwards into the wall, and tilt forwards when the cable is removed.
Also, some of the receptacles have a really weak grip on the plugs; if they are just barely brushed against while something is plugged in, power will flicker to whatever device is connected.
So, I would like to replace all of the outlets with much better new receptacles. I am clear on how to do the electrical side of things, but how do I secure them in the wall so they don't wobble? |
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dgilbert
Good Bye My Friend
Premium,MVM
join:2002-06-15
none
clubs:
| they screw down into the box. most likely they were against the sheetrock originally and that has chipped away leaving them attached to teh box but loose.
if you currently have 2 prong outlets, you MUST put 2 prong outlets back in unless you use a GFCI outlet/breaker to feed them and then you must put a lable on each outlet that says it is GFCI protected but ungrounded.
TURN OFF THE BREAKERS FIRST!!!!!!
--
Lack of Preparation on YOUR Part does NOT Constitute an Emergency on Mine! |
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nklb
Premium
join:2000-11-17
Ann Arbor, MI
clubs:
| Fortunately they are all 3-prong outlets, and they are properly grounded. These bedrooms have newer wiring than other parts of the house, so I think it was just some stupid previous owner who at some point had the bedrooms and the bathroom remodeled. (I have evidence that this circuit was run long after the house was finished)
It would currently be a pain to run multiple new circuits, as it would involve tearing down the basement ceiling. (I hope to put in a user-serviceable ceiling down there at some point, in which case I will have the wiring done properly.)
I guess my question is mostly, how do I secure in the outlet receptacles? Do I screw some brace into the studs, or should there be an outlet box that goes all the way in? I'm not sure how they are currently secured, but there is no outlet box and only some weird tiny metal brace. |
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cowspotter
join:2000-09-11
Ashburn, VA | You could replace the box with an "old work" or renovation box. Those are held in using tabs that grab on to the back of the drywall. The new work boxes require access to the studs. |
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steve1515
Premium
join:2000-08-07
Peabody, MA | reply to nklb
Can you take a picture of the outlet?
They did a really bad job if they didn't even use a box! |
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nunya
SEE ROCK CITY 475 MILES
Premium,MVM
join:2000-12-23
O Fallon, MO
clubs:
 ·AT&T CallVantage
1 edit | reply to nklb
You can by electrical "shims". »electrical.hardwarestore.com/14-···542.aspx
Caddy also makes a sectional backer plate for rough holes. Cat no. "RLC". You often have to switch to a mid-sized cover plate if you use the caddy product.
»www.erico.com/products/CADDYcfcD···etnr.asp
edit: Just saw the "no outlet box" part. Dangerous. Needs to be corrected. Typically an "old work" box would be the solution.
Call a real electrician if you are concerned. |
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netboy34
join:2001-08-29
Kennesaw, GA | those metal braces are for low voltage wire, not electrical. I agree with replacing withh an "old work" box |
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