KickMe
join:2001-10-03
Lancaster, OH
 ·RoadRunner Cable
·Earthlink Cable Mo..
|  Laminate Floor Install Advice
We're in the middle of a laminate floor installation and I am wondering about the guys doing the installation. First, I have to say that we got a very reasonable price on the flooring and the installation.
Our first concern was that they started laying without a staggered pattern to the laminate's beveled edges, which we mentioned to them and they corrected. Now, where the flooring meets the sliding glass doors they are talking about caulking that gap. We think there should be a better solution available but don't know what that might be. To make matters worse, in the same location, the laminate has a definite up and down give when it's walked on, like the floor isn't level at that location.
We are not demanding people and can live with a lot for the good price, but something seems wrong here and we would appreciate any advice on what we should insist be done at that location, and what we should just let go.
--
The god of the religious is the one that they were programmed to believe in, and the god the atheist doesn't believe in isn't the God that is.
|
|
Ken
Premium,MVM
join:2003-06-16
Brownsburg, IN | If the people installing your laminate floor didn't know to stagger the joints it's almost certain they have never installed a laminate floor before. Are they undercutting the jambs, and leaving room for expansion around the perimeter? |
|
SparkChaser
BURY BECK
Premium
join:2000-06-06
Downingtown, PA | reply to KickMe
What's it being put on, concrete, a sub floor over basement, second floor? The up/down give is most probably your floor.
When I installed it around the sliding door, I left a gap and then put in trim. |
|
Jon
Premium
join:2001-01-20
Lisle, IL
3 edits | reply to Ken
said by Ken  :If the people installing your laminate floor didn't know to stagger the joints it's almost certain they have never installed a laminate floor before. Really. Doesn't even usually say that on the instructions printed on the back of the box?
I'd use trim too. Piece of quarter-round or somehting. Caulk would look weird IMO and probably wouldn't withstand much traffic if you use those doors a lot.
I'd be a little more demanding too if I were you. That great deal isn't gonna be so great anymore if you have to pay someone to pull it up and do it over again. |
|
KickMe
join:2001-10-03
Lancaster, OH
·RoadRunner Cable
·Earthlink Cable Mo..
| reply to SparkChaser
Thanks for the replies.
said by Ken :If the people installing your laminate floor didn't know to stagger the joints it's almost certain they have never installed a laminate floor before. Are they undercutting the jambs, and leaving room for expansion around the perimeter? They undercut the jamb by the sliding glass door, and left small area for expansion but not a full 1/4" as I thought was needed. When I questioned them about it they claimed that the full 1/4 was not needed.
In talking to them they claimed to have installed lots of laminate previously, although never an Armstrong product.
said by SparkChaser :What's it being put on, concrete, a sub floor over basement, second floor? The up/down give is most probably your floor. When I installed it around the sliding door, I left a gap and then put in trim. Over concrete.
How did you attach the trim to the sliding glass door? (ours is a plastic compound). A nail could interfere with the sliding of the door.
said by Jon :said by Ken :If the people installing your laminate floor didn't know to stagger the joints it's almost certain they have never installed a laminate floor before. Really. Doesn't even usually say that on the instructions printed on the back of the box? I'd use trim too. Piece of quarter-round or somehting. Caulk would look weird IMO and probably wouldn't withstand much traffic if you use those doors a lot. I'd be a little more demanding too if I were you. That great deal isn't gonna be so great anymore if you have to pay someone to pull it up and do it over again. Yes I think caulk would look bad also, and problematic with the give to the floor in that area.
I am thinking that if they slid another piece of underlayment in just that small area it would help the up and down give, thoughts?
--
The god of the religious is the one that they were programmed to believe in, and the god the atheist doesn't believe in isn't the God that is.
|
|
SparkChaser
BURY BECK
Premium
join:2000-06-06
Downingtown, PA
 ·Verizon FIOS
·Comcast
| said by KickMe :Over concrete. How did you attach the trim to the sliding glass door? (ours is a plastic compound). A nail could interfere with the sliding of the door. . . . I am thinking that if they slid another piece of underlayment in just that small area it would help the up and down give, thoughts? I used a piece of shoe molding, it looked better than the quart round. I used adhesive to attach it to the door bottom track. It's been there for over 3 years.
Extra underlayment is what iI used. I first leveled out some deep spots with self leveling cement. Things looked level until I started laying the floor. Anywhere I found give I used the double underlayment trick. You are also right, you need it particularly around the doors, I have two. It's a lot of extra work and they probably don't want to be bothered.
--
--
--
"Facts do not cease to exist because they are ignored." - Aldous Huxley
"Children will not remember you for the material things you provided, but for the feeling that you cherished them." - Richard Evans |
|
KickMe
join:2001-10-03
Lancaster, OH
·RoadRunner Cable
·Earthlink Cable Mo..
| said by SparkChaser :said by KickMe :Over concrete. How did you attach the trim to the sliding glass door? (ours is a plastic compound). A nail could interfere with the sliding of the door. . . . I am thinking that if they slid another piece of underlayment in just that small area it would help the up and down give, thoughts? I used a piece of shoe molding, it looked better than the quart round. I used adhesive to attach it to the door bottom track. It's been there for over 3 years. Extra underlayment is what iI used. I first leveled out some deep spots with self leveling cement. Things looked level until I started laying the floor. Anywhere I found give I used the double underlayment trick. You are also right, you need it particularly around the doors, I have two. It's a lot of extra work and they probably don't want to be bothered. Appreciate the tips.
These guys come back this morning so we will have to be better consumers and peruse the internet on how to install laminate and tell them how we want them to do the work. Every website I have visited says to make sure to leave 1/4" around the perimeter and these guys say that isn't necessary, that just leaving a "gap" is fine.
If I would have had more time I would have done this work myself, and depending on what happens today, I might have to.
--
The god of the religious is the one that they were programmed to believe in, and the god the atheist doesn't believe in isn't the God that is.
|
|
cdru
Go Colts
Premium,MVM
join:2003-05-14
Fort Wayne, IN
| Regarding the gap, are they removing existing base molding or are they sliding it under? When I did our downstairs, we left the existing molding in place. There was more then a 1/4" gap under it, and the laminate could easily slide under the molding as the carpet use to be tucked in there. If that is the case, an additional 1/4" isn't needed...just cover it up with some shoe or 1/4 round.
Regarding the gap at the door, caulk can be fine but it's not quite as finished as some like. Depending on the style of the bottom track, a piece of shoe or 1/4 round may not fit, it could be too high. You might try finding some baby shoe molding. It's about 1/2 the thickness of regular shoe and meant for lower profile installations. When I did ours I just planed down a piece of oak to act almost like a transition as our sliding door was set back slightly and at an irregular angle. |
|
KickMe
join:2001-10-03
Lancaster, OH
·RoadRunner Cable
·Earthlink Cable Mo..
| said by cdru :Regarding the gap, are they removing existing base molding or are they sliding it under? When I did our downstairs, we left the existing molding in place. There was more then a 1/4" gap under it, and the laminate could easily slide under the molding as the carpet use to be tucked in there. If that is the case, an additional 1/4" isn't needed...just cover it up with some shoe or 1/4 round. Regarding the gap at the door, caulk can be fine but it's not quite as finished as some like. Depending on the style of the bottom track, a piece of shoe or 1/4 round may not fit, it could be too high. You might try finding some baby shoe molding. It's about 1/2 the thickness of regular shoe and meant for lower profile installations. When I did ours I just planed down a piece of oak to act almost like a transition as our sliding door was set back slightly and at an irregular angle. They are leaving the existing moulding and butting against it and will install quarter round. They are leaving a minor gap but I am concerned that if it's not a full 1/4" the floor might bow down the road.
I think some quarter round or shoe will do fine against the sliding door but think I will apply some construction adhesive on it against the door, perhaps weighted in place until it dries.
--
The god of the religious is the one that they were programmed to believe in, and the god the atheist doesn't believe in isn't the God that is.
|
|
cdru
Go Colts
Premium,MVM
join:2003-05-14
Fort Wayne, IN
| said by KickMe :They are leaving the existing moulding and butting against it and will install quarter round. They are leaving a minor gap but I am concerned that if it's not a full 1/4" the floor might bow down the road. If the gap between the concrete and the existing moulding is greater then the thickness of the flooring, then you'll be fine. If the flooring is thicker, then the moulding should be pulled off and readjusted to allow the flooring to slip under it. That will be far easier then trying to pull up the already laid floor. |
|
KickMe
join:2001-10-03
Lancaster, OH
·RoadRunner Cable
·Earthlink Cable Mo..
| said by cdru :If the flooring is thicker, then the moulding should be pulled off and readjusted to allow the flooring to slip under it. That will be far easier then trying to pull up the already laid floor. Good idea/point.
However, since they are only about a fourth of the in on a 276 sq. ft. area I may have to ask that they just start over.
Too, I think I will talk to the owner today, hopefully before they get started.
--
The god of the religious is the one that they were programmed to believe in, and the god the atheist doesn't believe in isn't the God that is.
|
|
supernac
join:2003-03-26
Springfield, MO | reply to KickMe
I used a brown caulk on mine, turned out really well. If you use t molding I would go ahead and caulk it anyways, you don't want water to get into the gap. |
|
fishmaster
Premium
join:2004-10-08
Rockford, IL
·Comcast
·Insight Communicat..
| reply to KickMe
Many people out there say they can do something and probably can. To do it right and efficiently? Well, that's a whole different story. Nothing really takes the place of right product knowledge and experience as well as proper preparation, Planning and layout.
No offense, but you get what you pay for.
Not staggering each row is simply wrong. Minimum 6" overlap is a good rule of thumb. It's not only good for the aesthetics and appearance but IS part of the engineering design for the integrity of the floor.
Quarter inch gap is a good rule of thumb. Not as critical in a small area verses a larger one (or long linear runs) A lot has to do with total area, surface its applied too and well as environment conditions. *Having too big of a gap when floor is applied in a hot and higher humidity environment will result in noticeable gap when conditions change especially when using cheaper thin base and/or shoe*
As for the finishing touches, tee moldings, transitions strips and shoebase/quarter round are the way to go. Not caulk in front of doors.
--
»www.freedombuild.net
Browse A lot - Sign In Little - Post Even Less |
|
