Home Improvement → Replace shower diverter behind wall

HD or Lowes have pluming sockets sets for about 20 bucks just for this use, I wouldn't recommend using Auto type sockets

What you will remove is only part of the valve, if the body is damaged, not the stem your removing, you can only fix that but ripping into the wall

What is on the other side of the wall? Perhaps there is a panel to get at the plumbing for the shower. Or at least a wall you can cut out and put some kind of panel or door on.

I don't think that is necessary. If I understand what he's asking, he just needs to remove the packing nut (the teal hex component in the picture) in order to get the valve stem and assembly out.

What he needs is a plumbers socket of the appropriate size like previously mentioned to loosen and remove the packing nut. The socket should be available at any hardware store or home center. Once removed, the assembly should just pull out. If he needed to replace the actual diverter valve, then an access panel from behind may be better in order to save having to replace the tub/shower wall.

ah-ha, awesome. knew there had to be a better tool to get it out. Will check it out today at the local Lowes.Bedroom closet. No access panels.

If it does come down to more in-depth repairs needed... then well maybe it's time to redo the bathroom sooner than later. I'll cross that road as needed. First up, diverter valve replacement.

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Bedroom closet. No access panels.

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That's the perfect place to put one!

I had a similar situation once. I ended up at the local distributor for my Gerber faucet set, as Home Depot, etc. did not have the diverter parts. I also wanted to replace the hot & cold stems, etc. It ended up being cheaper for me to buy a whole new faucet assembly to get the needed parts. I changed everything but the main casting, working from the front.

Damn. I've had one of those for YEARS and never knew what to use it for. You learn something new everyday.

or it could be a sparkplug wrench for chainsaw or other powertool.

Amazing how well the correct tool works for the job :P. Got the diverter unscrewed in 10 seconds.

Looks just a wee bit different from all those on the shelf at Lowes. The washer on the back looks fine and I don't see any others on it.

That diverter stem looks in prety damn good condition. Can you take a pic straight on with the washer/screw end?

The valve body looks good, the seat inside isnt cracked, dunno, but it doesnt look like the diverter is at fault. Does it turn all the way in? Might be a good time for a new washer anyways..

If the diverter on a 3 handle faucet works fine, you do not need a pull-up knob diverter on a tub spout. (if this is what you have )

Tub sockets are a good thing to have, they can come in real handy for some things.

-j

I agree. After taking the diverter out, all appears ok. But since this is the first time taking apart shower plumbing, didn't want to jump to conclusions too quickly. Oh yea, noticed on the diverter end that it's a Sterling.

Here is looking at the end of it, off-center to see the different layers.

Well at the worst you could take off the tub spout and cap it with a 1/2" cap, then you`d have a good shower for sure heh

-j

The washer on the diverter is totally worn out and needs to be replaced. It is impossible to properly check the condition of the seat from a pic. Stick your finger in and feel really carefully. It should be very smooth. From your problem description and the looks of the washer I don't think there is a problem with the seat but just stating that a quick visual doesn't catch the flaw.There is a bunch of crud in the valve body. Get all of that out of there. Turn on the water a little and let it flush the debris out.

While you are rebuilding the stem replace the packing washer and the large washer on the part you used the new wrench on. I would take the valve apart, wire brush it and liberally coat with silicone plumbers grease before reassembly.

Get rid of the spout with diverter built in. It may be part of the problem as it creates a restriction in the flow. Just take the spout off after rebuilding and reinstalling the valve and see if it works properly without a spout.

[edit] You are missing a washer. I had a diverter valve I needed to work on and have just taken it apart. Stay tuned for a new post with a pic of a different brand valve of the same style.

Ignore the pretty purple flowers growing out of the holes. No wonder this bathroom had no water pressure, the washer on the end was disintegrating! I purposely moved the other washers so they were clearly visible. There are four (4) washers on this stem. From left to right, the purple one and the next white one are the ones which seal the water to go up or down. The third one keeps the stem from leaking against the valve body. The last one is hidden behind the brass nut on the right end and is the packing washer which keeps the water from running out around the faucet handle.

The reason your tub has a diverter spout is the previous owner could figure out how to fix it as the second washer was totally missing.

Makes sense. The previous owner did so many things the wrong way in this house I'm learning.

Took the spout off and its stamped with made in Taiwan. lol, don't think Sterling was made there back in the day :P. Additionally, the spout pipe has a thread enlarger on it of some sort.

Tomorrow, I start the hunt around town for someone who carries this replacement, as Lowe's does not.

The spout should be an easy replacement. Can you post a pic of the pipe coming out of the wall?

[edit] The second washer which is missing on yours is your main problem. Everything else is secondary.

Agreed.

Right after taking off the spout

Is that a threaded bushing? It looks like it's cracked.

Went to Aurora Plumbing this morning, who had a matching replacement diverter value. You're quite right robbin, it was completely missing a rubber washer.

That's really helpful that you uploaded the pictures for others to see!, most the time someone just says all fixed and disappears!

If you still have a little leak, you should take care of it. Little leaks can be come big leaks and may then be harder to repair. It sounds like you just need to tighten the packing nut a little more. The packing nut is the "little end cap thingy" you refer to. Although since you first installed it and put pressure on it without the nut, you may need to take the nut off and carefully reseat the o-ring or washer as the pressure could have moved it. Hopefully it wasn't moved out of place and then damaged when the packing nut was installed.

Another 2 cents worth - packing leaks can sometimes go mostly undetected because they usually occur when the valves are open and a large part of the leak can occur in the wall, causing damage. It's important to stay on top of them.

Too late.

As I've been working on bathroom, it's become blatant obvious to me that who ever put up the Formica in the shower did so to cover up the existing damage. With the shower head, diverter and spout removed I can get glimpses of whats behind the wall.
* Shower head area - there is no immediate wall and I see a stud in the gaping hole.
* Diverter area - appears there is drywall behind there and its black with what I can only assume is mold. The diverter decorative cover, which has the packing nut, is covered with white/green deposits. Obviously its been leaking for quite a while. I can only tighten it down so much before its snug against the [extended and fake] wall.

Through all those open holes, I feel a strong cold draft from the inner wall. Come spring, need to re-insulate underside of the house in the crawl space. I vaguely recall the area with the pipes going up to the bathroom has all the insulation removed, last time I was under there. Anyways, it's on my giant list of todos...

The escutcheon plate needs to be separated from the packing nut. It sounds like you left the old nut attached and used it with the new valve. That is not a very good idea. If necessary you can replace the extension piece that connects the nut and the escutcheon. The plumbing supply you went to should have helped you with this and sold you the correct parts to complete your repair properly!

Oh, didn't really realize they separated. The whole backside of the escutcheon plate and the shaft are covered in deposits. Just assumed that's how the old thing was meant to be and screwed into the diverter end.