Technical > Overclocking / Modding > [Cooling] Tips for installing massive HSFs?

[Cooling] Tips for installing massive HSFs?

reply to nokken
I have a Q6600 CPU with a big Zalman cooler mounted on it.

It is a bit nerve racking installing one of those for the first time.

Here is my advice.

Take the Motherboard out of the case. Yes, it's a big pain, but worth it. Trying to add the new HS/fan inside the case can be a real headache and very difficult.

Find a good level surface to work on.

Take off the old HS/fan. Clean off the old CPU thermal paste CAREFULLY. Use a lint free cloth (get Camera Lens cleaning cloths that are dry, no solution on them), dip it in a little bit of isopropyl alcohol (any drugstore has it for $1) - but use the 90% or higher kind -- NOT hydrogen peroxide or other alcohol that is lower, like 70%.

OK, so gently clean the CPU of all the old thermal grease. Once it is clean wait a few min to make sure it is dry (the Iso alcohol evaporates really fast anyway). Now add ARCTIC SILVER 5, go to their website for instructions on how to apply it to the CPU, it's easy.

AS5 is the best thermal paste, seriously. You can use something different, but I have always liked AS the best. You can get it on Newegg.

OK, now clean the Tuniq heatsink with the same method, wait for it to dry.

Place the heatsink over the CPU, refer to the instructions to see exactly how to install for that socket and motherboard.

But basically, like on mine, there is a retaining clip that hooks under a piece on the motherboard, then the other side of the clip goes over another fastener on the other side of the CPU, on the motherboard. The trick is that you have to use a screwdriver or other tool to 'push' the clip down so that it hooks into place. It is spring loaded, so it will go down and hook under the piece and go back up slightly and then fit snugly over the CPU.

Yes, it is theoretically possible to crack the CPU as you are pushing down, but only if you are really rough and don't pay attention.

Just take your time and DON"T FORCE anything. It will go on with a bit of pressure, just take it slow & smooth. You may not get it the first time, but don't panic. Also it may help if you stand over the table to get good leverage.

So once you have the Heatsink/Fan mounted, now you can take the whole motherboard and put it back into your case. Now add the video card back in, and connect all the hard drive cables, headers, power, etc.

You can probably check youtube and watch a video of someone doing it, just to see exactly what I mean.

Good luck! Report back with your results.

Yeah, its good to have an AMD board with regard to the HSF's. You don't have dismantle the whole system just to install a HSF. Yes, some cases have a butt flap(like a pair of long johns has) so you don't have to do that. Even with that, its still alot more work. Why are AMD and Intel HSF mounting systems different anyway?

I think its karma. If you go to overclocking forums, Intel people are a bunch of snobs. They think they're bad ass with their i7's while Phenom II's are crap just because the i7 out performs them on benchmarks the that stress the CPU way more than normal usage ever will. So the Intel snobs were punished for their snobbery by having to go through hell to install aftermarket HSF's.
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Bit Torrent is my DVR.

reply to nokken

It's alive!

My first attempt at cable management.

Stock Clock Stability Testing

reply to nokken
IMO temps look fine

what caused you to wait so long to even try the Tuniq? All these new, giant coolers of the last 4 years are EZMOAD to install lol. also, you absolutely can not "crack" the CPU since you're seating the cooler against the CPU's heat spreader, which is like steal or something.

while the E8400 is a nice chip, i dont think you'd really notice a difference over the E6750, especially when both have a nice OC. the E6750's lower FSB makes it OC easier since there's more headroom for the RAM before you even hit its stock speeds.

for example:
pc2 6400 RAM = equivalent of 400mhz FSB for Intel system
e6750 = 266 FSB. 400 - 266 = 134mhz headroom
e8400 = 333 FSB. 400 - 333 = 67mhz headroom

take your headroom and multiply by the CPU's multiplier and that's the rudimentary, generally easy to obtain OC with an adequate cooler/mobo/RAM, which you have.

im not saying the 6750 is a better CPU, but it was a great C2D and already close to the best experience you can have with a dual-core, especially when OCed. the E8400 will probably be faster b/c it is a new revision with probably better specs, but i dont think one would notice a difference.
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reply to nokken
good call. i didnt know they made 1333 6000-series CPUs. the only difference i see besides smaller die/less heat is the extra cache. the e8400 is definitely the superior CPU both stock and OCing. with both, it's a no brainer, but i wouldnt buy a 45nm dual-core to replace that 6750 as it's already close to the max performance of that socket for duals.

i also agree with moving the system a lot. you do NOT want to move these very often with large coolers. i took my system to a major 256man lan years back with a giant thermalrite cooler and it was hanging by one clip when i unpacked it and set it up. hadnt noticed until it shut off due to temps, and it fried the thermal paste. all the h/w was fine but i was lucky to bum some TIM off someone to re-attach the HSF.
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reply to heat84

reply to nokken
I know you were talking Dual-Cores, but with Quads, 2 cores are getting better contact, while the weight is pulling the HS away from the other 2.
Took me a while to twig to that fact, oh so obvious- in hindsight.
Solution: I strung it up! Took strong string and threaded the HS less than a third in from the top and tied both ends moderately tight to the underside of my cases roof. I went from having a 15C diff between hottest and coolest, to less than 5C diff.
You're threading a needle- Too tight and you reverse the situation; not tight enuff and why did you do anything at all?
HTH, ave

oops, just noticed the age. Oh well, the info is still valid!
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Antec NeoPower 500 watt
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reply to nokken
t-120 was huge. but nd-d14 now thats something. i have the t-120 on my q6600 and 1650 rpm and up it get load. 2200+ is super load. nd-d14 is only 1250 and 1350 rpm. you would have space for that too. yes is over kill but you dint have to have 1800+ rpm being so loud next to you.

This would look great in your system.

reply to nokken
I use 1.25625 for 3.99GHz.
Orthos stable 24hrs 2 tests
EO stepping "should" need less v's

MB Intelligent Tweaker(M.I.T.)
Robust Graphics Booster .........Auto
CPU Clock Ratio .................9
Fine CPU Clock Ratio ............0.0
CPU Frequency ...................4.44(444x9)3996 3.96GHz.
Clock Chip Control
Standard Clock Control
CPU Host Clock Control............Enabled
CPU Host Frequency (Mhz) .........444
PCI Express Frequency (Mhz) ......100 Lock
C.I.A.2 ..........................Disabled
Advanced Clock Control[Press Enter]
CPU Clock Drive...................800
PCI Express Clock Drive...........900
CPU Clock Skew (ps)...............0ps
MCH Clock Skew (ps)...............0ps
DRAM Performance Control
Performance Enhance................Standard
Extreme Memory Profile (X.M.P.)....Disabled
(G)MCH Frequency Latch.............400
System Memory Multiplier ..........2.00D “D” straps 400fsb
Memory Frequency (Mhz) ............800 @ 888mhz 1:1
DRAM Timing Selectable ............Manual
Standard Timing Control
CAS Latency Time...................5
tRCD ..............................5
tRP'...............................5
tRAS...............................12
Advanced Timing Control
tRRD...............................auto
tWTR...............................auto
tWR................................auto
tRFC...............................auto
tRTP...............................auto
Command Rate (CMD) ................2T
Driving Strength Profiles
Driving Strength ...................1066
Channel A
Static tRead Value..................9
tRD Phase0 Adjustment...............Auto
tRD Phase1 Adjustment...............Auto
tRD Phase2 Adjustment ..............Auto
tRD Phase3 Adjustment...............Auto
Trd2rd(Different Rank)..............Auto
Twr2wr(Different Rank)..............Auto
Twr2rd(Different Rank)..............Auto
Trd2wr(Same/Diff Rank)..............Auto
Dimm1 Clock Skew Control............Auto
Dimm2 Clock Skew Control............Auto
Channel B
Static tRead Value.....................9
tRD Phase0 Adjustment..................Auto
tRD Phase1 Adjustment..................Auto
tRD Phase2 Adjustment .................Auto
tRD Phase3 Adjustment..................Auto
Trd2rd(Different Rank).................Auto
Twr2wr(Different Rank).................Auto
Twr2rd(Different Rank).................Auto
Trd2wr(Same/Diff Rank).................Auto
Dimm1 Clock Skew Control...............Auto
Dimm2 Clock Skew Control...............Auto
Motherboard Voltage Control
Voltage Type... Manual
CPU
Load Line..................Disabled
CPU V core.................125625V
CPU Termination…1.200V.....1.200V
CPU PLL.........1.500V.....1.500V
CPU Reference...0.760V.....Auto
MCH/ICH
MCH Core……........1.24V Northbridge
MCH Reference….…….0.757V....Auto
MCH/DRAM Ref.…....0.900V....1.04
ICH I/O……………….....1.500V....1.500V
ICH Core…………......1.100V....1.200V
DRAM
DRAM Voltage ……....1.800V...2.08V
DRAM Termination .…0.900V...1.04
Channel A Reference 0.900V..1.04
Channel B Reference 0.900V..1.04
Advanced BIOS Features
Limit CPUID Max. to 3 .......Disabled
No-Execute Memory Protect ...Enabled
CPU Enhanced Halt (C1E) .....Enabled
C2/C2E State Support ........Disabled
x C4/C4E State Support ......Disabled
CPU Thermal Monitor 2 (TM2) .Enabled
CPU EIST Function ...........Enabled
Bios F-10

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Southern Ontario,Canada

Those are nice settings, but are we supposed to play a guessing game about your system? OK, I'll play.

CPU type: E8400, like the OP?
Motherboard: Most would guess Gigabyte, but some wouldn't know?
Mobo model: EP45-UD3P, just a wild guess?
Cooler: The original OP topic was massive heatsinks, but we missed what yours was. Same Tuniq tower as OP?
Temps: Those settings don't mean anything without load temps on whatever kinda system your running?
Stability: Shall we assume it's stable?

Perhaps my bad reading, but I can't seem to comprehend your post.
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Things I like - Team Discovery - Quads©3.3 to 4.1ghz - Strawberry Ice cream
How's That Hope & Change Working For Ya?

No need to be a smart a**
I never asked you to play

My point? he might not be to far off a higher OC with little changes

coolermaster hyper212+

He has an 8400 and is mentioning voltage

Stable..?
All screenies are posted on the Giga forum including temps
Have a great day
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Southern Ontario,Canada

Yes I thought it was an open forum(boy was I wrong there) thats why I posted those settings as he may not need much to get more

Sorry I didn't ask your permission to post that

You have my sincerest apology

Its pretty easy to find on the Giga forum
If I'd post all kinds of screenies you'd complain about thats not about massive heat sinks or you probably would have difficulty comprehending.
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Southern Ontario,Canada

reply to FizzyMyNizzy

said by FizzyMyNizzy:

t-120 was huge. but nd-d14 now thats something. i have the t-120 on my q6600 and 1650 rpm and up it get load. 2200+ is super load. nd-d14 is only 1250 and 1350 rpm. you would have space for that too. yes is over kill but you dint have to have 1800+ rpm being so loud next to you.

This would look great in your system.

reply to nokken
no ssd come on $100 for a 30 GB ssd would do u good.
I have 2 in a raid 0 I will never go back to a HDD as a boot drive.