tahoejeff Premium Member join:2001-07-01 Wisconsin Dells, WI |
Durock behind woodstoveMy woodstove has been in place for over 10 years, sitting kitty-corner in my living room on a mat designed for this purpose. The stove instructions say the corners must be 8" from combustibles, and they are 8.5" from the painted drywall. Just to be extra safe, I'm now planning to put up a Durock 1/2" cementboard heatshield...maybe with quarry tile. All the sites I've read about this say to install it 1" from the wall, with air gaps at the bottom and top for convection. One concern: if I do this and use ripped Durock strips as firring strips and attach to the studs with 3" drywall screws, won't the drywall screws transfer the heat to the studs? I don't see an alternative way to attach. If I decide to buy a new stove in the next year or two, I'd like it to work with this current setup. Do most new UL listed stoves specify 8" or less from combustible corners?
I'm also considering just putting up the Durock this fall, and then learning how to work with tile next summer. Will the tiles and grout/mortar still adhere ok after the Durock has been in place for a heating season? |
|
tp0dyabbazooie Premium Member join:2001-02-13 Bulger, PA 3 edits |
tp0d
Premium Member
2010-Sep-14 5:54 pm
Once you put up the cement board, you no longer have a requirement for an 8" gap between a combustible surface, so its moot. The screws are also inconsequential. You should have some sort of firebreak around your stove, regardless. You have to plan for the worst, ie... the stove burning out of control. I would have never ran the stove without some sort of protection. The 1/2" to 1" airgap away from the wall would be fine, but if you already have 8" to the stove, mounting the board to the wall would be fine.
Personally, I`d put the cement board up, then definitely do the tile, as more mass will hold the heat reflected by the stove, and when the stove cools, the tile will still be warm and continue to heat the room.
I heat with wood, I have a wood boiler in my basement. I lined my chimney with a hard 316 stainless liner, and I have all concrete around my boiler, so no worries. (the sides are insulated anyways).
-j |
|
|
to tahoejeff
Installing the Durock and waiting a year to tile should not be an issue as long as you don't paint it. When you do tile, read all the specs for your adhesive/grout to be sure that it won't soften under heat. All purpose tile adhesives are typically made for vinyl tile and soften under heat. They can be used to attach ceramic tile on a wall in a bathroom but will soften when hot.. (A propane torch is a common means of removal.) |
|
Msradell Premium Member join:2008-12-25 Louisville, KY |
to tp0d
said by tp0d:Once you put up the cement board, you no longer have an 8" gap between a combustible surface, so its moot. Yes he does because the cement board is noncombustible! I would personally like a larger gap but they should be acceptable per the information he has. |
|
guppy_fish Premium Member join:2003-12-09 Palm Harbor, FL |
to tahoejeff
Trying to cut the Durarock into strips will be an issue for your spacers, also when you install the screws it will crack the rock if there isn;t enough material on either side of the screw, just a guess but anything less that 6-8"" will be very hard to work with |
|
tp0dyabbazooie Premium Member join:2001-02-13 Bulger, PA 1 edit |
to Msradell
said by Msradell:said by tp0d:Once you put up the cement board, you no longer have an 8" gap between a combustible surface, so its moot. Yes he does because the cement board is noncombustible! I would personally like a larger gap but they should be acceptable per the information he has. fixed it -j |
|