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Cho Baka
MVM
join:2000-11-23
there

Cho Baka

MVM

Removing Mini-split A/C-Heatpump systems

I am moving and I need to remove two mini-split A/C systems that also have a heat pump function.

My understanding is that I can shut the valve on the high side where the line comes out of the outside unit, operate it in A/C mode, and then close the low side valve.

My understanding is that this will put all the refrigerant in the outside unit. These units are shipped precharged and are normally installed by purging the air from the lines using the pressure from the refrigerant.

Are there any pitfalls to doing this?

After I close the high side valve, how do I know when to shut the low side valve?




I assume that there is a valve under the cap indicated by A.
I also assume that B is the service port.

Finally, I'll also assume that the small pipe is the high-side pipe. (as it would be on a car).

shdesigns
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Stone Mountain, GA
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shdesigns

Premium Member

Yes, that will work. I did the same when i moved my outside unit. Was not a bright idea for the builder to put the condenser in front of the dryer vent

It is best done with a set of gauges to see when the pipes are empty. It should pull a vacuum.

The bottom port does look like a connection for a set of gauges. The small one would be the high side.

Cho Baka
MVM
join:2000-11-23
there

Cho Baka

MVM

said by shdesigns:

Was not a bright idea for the builder to put the condenser in front of the dryer vent

Ouch!

SandShark5
Long may you run
Premium Member
join:2000-05-23
Santa Fe, TX

1 recommendation

SandShark5 to Cho Baka

Premium Member

to Cho Baka
said by Cho Baka:

I am moving and I need to remove two mini-split A/C systems that also have a heat pump function.

My understanding is that I can shut the valve on the high side where the line comes out of the outside unit, operate it in A/C mode, and then close the low side valve.

My understanding is that this will put all the refrigerant in the outside unit. These units are shipped precharged and are normally installed by purging the air from the lines using the pressure from the refrigerant.

Are there any pitfalls to doing this?

After I close the high side valve, how do I know when to shut the low side valve?

I assume that there is a valve under the cap indicated by A.
I also assume that B is the service port.

Finally, I'll also assume that the small pipe is the high-side pipe. (as it would be on a car).

My understanding is that I can shut the valve on the high side where the line comes out of the outside unit, operate it in A/C mode, and then close the low side valve. Possibly.

My understanding is that this will put all the refrigerant in the outside unit. Possibly.

These units are shipped precharged and are normally installed by purging the air from the lines using the pressure from the refrigerant. Not true.

Are there any pitfalls to doing this? Yes and no.

After I close the high side valve, how do I now when to shut the low side valve? You won't, unless you use a set of manifold gauges.

I assume that there is a valve under the cap indicated by A. I also assume that B is the service port. You assume correctly.
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Cho Baka
MVM
join:2000-11-23
there

Cho Baka to iknow

MVM

to iknow

Re: Removing Mini-split A/C-Heatpump systems

It isn't a central A/C system.

Where I am now they do not usually stay with the house/apartment when people move.

guppy_fish
Premium Member
join:2003-12-09
Palm Harbor, FL

guppy_fish to Cho Baka

Premium Member

to Cho Baka
Its a EPA regulation and applies to all R12/R22 refrigerant based equipment. Its a 10k fine if caught ... lol of that ever happening

Just curious, I have never hear of people moving the split AC systems when they move, what state might that be in?

Cho Baka
MVM
join:2000-11-23
there

Cho Baka

MVM

I am interested in the technical side of the question only.

I have a lapsed automotive certification. I understand more than the basics, but there are obviously a few differences here.

I am in 愛知県。
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bemis
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join:2008-07-18
united state

bemis to guppy_fish

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to guppy_fish

Re: Removing Mini-split A/C-Heatpump systems

said by guppy_fish:

Its a EPA regulation and applies to all R12/R22 refrigerant based equipment. Its a 10k fine if caught ... lol of that ever happening

Do these mini's use R12/22? I thought they were all using R-410 or 134a by now? Not saying you still shouldn't do it correctly, but I do believe those refrigerants are available over counter?

Have you called a service co to see what they'd charge? Maybe for $100 you can have a pro do it correctly (and potentially save your warranty if an issue comes up)?

Cho Baka
MVM
join:2000-11-23
there

Cho Baka

MVM

Warranty expired 3 years ago.

As long as I do this correctly, I am not concerned.
As far as I know, this one uses R22.

Regardless of what type it uses, I don't want to have to buy any refrigerant.

guppy_fish
Premium Member
join:2003-12-09
Palm Harbor, FL

guppy_fish to Cho Baka

Premium Member

to Cho Baka
Well, at least use a gauge set so you know when the line is a 0 vacuum. Running to long with the king valve closed will damage the compressor, to short and you will not have pulled a vacuum

You'll also need an evacuation pump to purge the line before you use the system again

grobinette
Southeast of disorder
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grobinette to Cho Baka

MVM,

to Cho Baka
said by Cho Baka:

I am interested in the technical side of the question only.

So lets keep the to the technical side of the question.
Thank you.
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49528867 (banned)
join:2010-04-16
Fort Lauderdale, FL

1 edit

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49528867 (banned) to Cho Baka

Member

to Cho Baka

Re: Removing Mini-split A/C-Heatpump systems

I am not going to tell you how to do it, but I will tell you how it has been done.

Close the high side valve and leave the low side valve open, run the compressor for about 45-60 seconds (you can hear the compressor load up when it is reaching the end of the process) then while the compressor is still running close the low side valve and immediately shut down the compressor.

Crack open the low side fitting and allow the pressures to equalize (chances are you will have a zero pressure or a vacuum) once that is complete remove both lines from the condenser and tape the ends of the tubing shut to preclude the entry of contaminants.

Move the unit to the new location reconnect the tubing fitting up the high side coupling nice and tight but leaving the low side coupling finger tight, slowly open the high side valve allowing refrigerant to flow into the evaporator to purge the tubing toward the low side through the loose fitting for about 10-15 seconds of flow then make up the low side coupling nice and tight.

Power the unit up and test for proper charge by noting a cool and wet low side after the unit has been cooling awhile.

Now you’re all done.

Wayne

Corrected valve error.

printscreen
join:2003-11-01
Juana Diaz, PR

printscreen

Member

said by 49528867:

Move the unit to the new location reconnect the tubing fitting up the high side coupling nice and tight but leaving the low side coupling finger tight, slowly open the high side valve allowing refrigerant to flow into the evaporator to purge the tubing toward the low side through the loose fitting for about 10-15 seconds of flow then make up the low side coupling nice and tight.

I have a mini-split unit at home that was previously at another location before it was given to me. I don't know how the process of removing the unit was done at the old location but the guy that installed it at my place used a vacuum pump to purge all air from the system before he opened the valves. I can't recall if it needed to be recharged a bit. I think it wasn't.
49528867 (banned)
join:2010-04-16
Fort Lauderdale, FL

49528867 (banned)

Member

said by printscreen:

I don't know how the process of removing the unit was done at the old location but the guy that installed it at my place used a vacuum pump to purge all air from the system before he opened the valves.

That is the proper way of removing all air and more importantly moisture from a system that has been opened.

Wayne

iknow
@optonline.net

iknow to 49528867

Anon

to 49528867
said by 49528867:

I am not going to tell you how to do it, but I will tell you how it has been done.

Close the high side valve and leave the low side valve open, run the compressor for about 45-60 seconds (you can hear the compressor load up when it is reaching the end of the process) then while the compressor is still running close the low side valve and immediately shut down the compressor.

Crack open the low side fitting and allow the pressures to equalize (chances are you will have a zero pressure or a vacuum) once that is complete remove both lines from the condenser and tape the ends of the tubing shut to preclude the entry of contaminants.

Move the unit to the new location reconnect the tubing fitting up the high side coupling nice and tight but leaving the low side coupling finger tight, slowly open the high side valve allowing refrigerant to flow into the evaporator to purge the tubing toward the low side through the loose fitting for about 10-15 seconds of flow then make up the low side coupling nice and tight.

Power the unit up and test for proper charge by noting a cool and wet low side after the unit has been cooling awhile.

Now you’re all done.

Wayne

Corrected valve error.

that is the way homeowners were allowed to do it years ago, now it's called releasing an ozone depleter into the atmosphere, as you'll lose some freon into the air. the OP didn't want to buy any.
49528867 (banned)
join:2010-04-16
Fort Lauderdale, FL

49528867 (banned)

Member

said by iknow :

that is the way homeowners were allowed to do it years ago, now it's called releasing an ozone depleter into the atmosphere, as you'll lose some freon into the air.

Yes and that pony has been well beaten.

Wayne
49528867

49528867 (banned) to bemis

Member

to bemis
said by bemis:

Do these mini's use R12/22? I thought they were all using R-410 or 134a by now?

Most mini-splits have been R-22, however while most reputable manufacturers have moved to R-410A there are literally tons of R-22 mini’s coming into this country and can be found on e-Bay, CL, etc. being sold under lovely names like Air-Con.

Wayne

Cho Baka
MVM
join:2000-11-23
there

Cho Baka

MVM

Ok, I have an update.

Both units were R410.
I spent fruitless time searching on the internet, when all I had to do was look at the condenser units...

Also, the procedure described above did the trick.
I ran each about 40 seconds. This was enough to create a vacuum.

SandShark5
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join:2000-05-23
Santa Fe, TX

SandShark5

Premium Member

Just curious, but how did you know you had a vacuum?

Cho Baka
MVM
join:2000-11-23
there

Cho Baka

MVM

Sorry, I should have been clearer.

I ran them for about 45 seconds, basically the length of time as described by Channelone. I also confirmed the length of time with a local AC tech here.

I only actually knew there was a vacuum as I loosened the lines.
(by the sucking sound)