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M A R S
Premium
join:2001-06-15
Long Island
kudos:1

1 edit

[Help] Ramdom dim battery light..

1993 Volvo, i hooked a multimeter up to the battery, 12.58 cold, 13.75 running and 12.43 with a high load on it it and dropping, load off slowly came up to 13.45. Then car off 12.57 then running 13.75+. I also took notice once more when the light come on very dim and i saw i was dropping down to 11 volts, turned car off and suddenly i was up at 14+

I think in the next few weeks I'm looking at a new alternator?



Rifleman
Premium
join:2004-02-09
p1a

Sounds like it. The brushes are done.



DeltaElite
We Dont Dial 911

join:2002-03-29
Tucker, GA
kudos:1
reply to M A R S

+1 unless ya can replace just the brushes....
--
Protect your right to keep and arm bears!



M A R S
Premium
join:2001-06-15
Long Island
kudos:1
reply to M A R S

I wonder how long i have to it goes to shit all the way



M A R S
Premium
join:2001-06-15
Long Island
kudos:1
reply to M A R S

Click for full size
I swapped in in brushes from a used alt, same stuff, and ones i took out have tuns of life left..


MrMoody
Free range slave
Premium
join:2002-09-03
Smithfield, NC

Did that fix it? It could also be a blown rectifier, which would make it operate at 2/3 capacity.


guppy_fish
Premium
join:2003-12-09
Lakeland, FL
kudos:1
reply to M A R S

Weak battery is the most likely cause. little capacity = large variations in the voltage based on loads.



M A R S
Premium
join:2001-06-15
Long Island
kudos:1

Ill swap battery later on tonight and report back



M A R S
Premium
join:2001-06-15
Long Island
kudos:1
reply to M A R S

Update, i was doing something under the hood and when i was done i got in the car and took her for a test drive, i noticed the charging issue was gone. But i also noted i had no brake lights. I did a simple check and found the fuse was blown. Once replaced the the charging issue returned!!! So now i know its some kind of grounding issue with the brake lights. I took a close inspection of them, i see one housing is Volvo OEM and the other is some odd ball shit made in ESTONIA!!! I'm going to swap in the true Volvo OEM lights off my other 244 and see if this changes the situation.



The Pig
I know you want to be me
Premium
join:2009-09-11

1 edit
reply to M A R S

Just go to your mechanic or AutoZone/Napa and have the battery and alternator tested!
Putting band-aids on the wrong problem won't help anything!
Can also be a failing circuit board!



aannoonn

@optonline.net

I've had bad batteries test as good. If the battery is over 4 years old, just replace it!



rockotman
...Blown On The Steel Breeze
Emerging Research
join:2000-08-06
DSotM
kudos:2
reply to M A R S

Not sure since it is a Volvol, but can you replace the diode pack in that alternator? What you are describing was a very common symptom of a bad diode in the pack in alternators that GM used during the 80's and early 90's.

Edit: I see Mr. Moody already suggested that.
--
Shine on you crazy diamond...



M A R S
Premium
join:2001-06-15
Long Island
kudos:1
reply to M A R S

Battery is one month old, new brushes in alternator. I did a test, pulled the fuse for the brake lights just make sure im not insane, issue was gone, put the fuse back in issue is back



rockotman
...Blown On The Steel Breeze
Emerging Research
join:2000-08-06
DSotM
kudos:2

Can you locate a schematic for your vehicle's electrical system? Without it, trying to diagnose the brake-fuse symptom you describe is going to be very difficult.
--
Shine on you crazy diamond...



The Pig
I know you want to be me
Premium
join:2009-09-11

said by rockotman:

Can you locate a schematic for your vehicle's electrical system? Without it, trying to diagnose the brake-fuse symptom you describe is going to be very difficult.

yeah even with the schematics
»www.google.com/search?q=1993+Vol···7GGLL_en
it's going to be hard to find the short!

fixrman
Premium
join:2003-02-10
Hatboro, PA
Reviews:
·Verizon FiOS
reply to M A R S

Here is another case where parts replacement did nothing but waste time and money. If the root cause had been diagnosed at the outset, needless parts replacement would not have occurred.

A wiring diagram is a road map to the issue. It just needs to be determined how the charging circuit and brake lamp circuit are intersecting. What was the original complaint, just the light or is there another start/charge system condition? How about some history on the vehicle prior to this issue? What about the Estonian lamp assembly ( bearing in mind that Estonia doesn't necessarily mean junk - Stockholm and Tallinn are a mere 250 miles apart )?
--
"from a broken heart to a hole in the sky"



M A R S
Premium
join:2001-06-15
Long Island
kudos:1
reply to M A R S

Let add some more info i left out like a fool. I now come to realize this issues are much worse when i hit the breaks, a serious drain on power. Now also i left out the part when i got the new battery the volt lite has not come back on but i still see heavy strain on the batter specifically when hitting the brakes. And the fuse was blow not cracked. I have the original shop manuals for the car and a 1993 specific wiring diagram. For give me for leaving the part out about the new battery.



M A R S
Premium
join:2001-06-15
Long Island
kudos:1
reply to fixrman

said by fixrman:

What about the Estonian lamp assembly ( bearing in mind that Estonia doesn't necessarily mean junk - Stockholm and Tallinn are a mere 250 miles apart )?

They are trash. Im better off with used OEM stuff. To look at the 2 side by side its a shock. And the real Volvo ones are made in France.


SmokChsr
Who let the magic smoke out?
Premium
join:2006-03-17
Saint Augustine, FL
reply to M A R S

I'd first have someone step on the breaks and look for any differences in the brake lights. It sounds like you have a short somewhere in the brake wiring.

Normally when a fuse blows it's for a reason. Could be as simple as a blown bulb whos filament has gotten across the support leads, or as complex as a wire rub somewhere in the harness.

Unfortunately from the symptoms it's more likely the latter.



M A R S
Premium
join:2001-06-15
Long Island
kudos:1

said by SmokChsr:

I'd first have someone step on the breaks and look for any differences in the brake lights. It sounds like you have a short somewhere in the brake wiring.

Normally when a fuse blows it's for a reason. Could be as simple as a blown bulb whos filament has gotten across the support leads, or as complex as a wire rub somewhere in the harness.

Unfortunately from the symptoms it's more likely the latter.

I have used a pipe to hold the peddle down and the left side, the aftermarket light is super super bright


SmokChsr
Who let the magic smoke out?
Premium
join:2006-03-17
Saint Augustine, FL

said by M A R S:

the aftermarket light is super super bright

Super super bright, can indicate a problem.. Check the bulbs.


cowboyro
Premium
join:2000-10-11
Shelton, CT
Reviews:
·AT&T U-Verse
reply to M A R S

You likely tested at low RPM (idle engine) which is almost guaranteed to produce less charging than during normal operation. Repeat the measurement while driving or while accelerating a bit - I bet you'll see different results.
An extremely bright light suggests a bulb of much higher power than designed - in which case the fuse does what it's supposed to do.