Technical > Automotive > Opinions on Block Heaters

Opinions on Block Heaters

Magnetics are for oil pan use. Frost plugs are the most common type. In-lines are damn good, and heat the engine very efficiently. Make sure the system bleeds well though...

The epoxy type? Never heard of them.

I used to live in the Canadian north, and have used them. My 2 cents, FWIW.

reply to Waterbug


Whenever possible, I always went with the frost-plug style. They are the best overall option when you consider the factors that you mentioned already. The in-line type is OK, but I preferred to put the heat in the block first instead of the water external to the block. Just my preference, but I never had a customer complain about the plug style. And, that's what the automotive manufacturers use as well when installed from the factory.

Matt, the in-lines do heat the block very well, as the cold/ heat rise of the coolant actually keeps it in circulation through all passages. There are no cold spots from my experience. This was in -30 plus temps.

As I noted, just my preference.

reply to Waterbug
Another advantage to using the bigger heater and turning it on before use is that if this tractor is only used to clear snow for example you will save on electrical costs. unless its a run every day thing there is no sense in keeping the block warm day in and day out unless there is a mechanical reason to do so.
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[65 Arcanist]Filan(High Elf) Zone: Broadband Reports

reply to Waterbug
Not exactly "automotive" use - but we use inline block heaters on all our diesel generators - as mentioned, they do work very well...

If you've got the clearance, probably the way I'd go; as they are effective, and pretty DIY-friendly.

reply to Waterbug
I used to use an old school mechanical air conditioner timer to turn on my 400W block heater 3-4 hours before my morning commute. Worked just as well as running it all night long.
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I turned on my computer for this?

reply to Xstar_Lumini

reply to Xstar_Lumini

reply to Waterbug
Assuming $0.12 / kWh, leaving it plugged in 24/7 would cost $1.10 a day or so.

But this is off-topic since OP said it's the mice that are the issue.

reply to Waterbug
Just my two cent - in line circulating water heat to warm up the heads and cylinders where the fuel gets ignited via compression. 100 degrees or more closer to the ignition point is not going to hurt your chances of a cold start. One hour is not enough when temps are around zero F. 2 to 5 hours is better. We often used timers for this. The timers are not too difficult to come by at the appropriate wattage rating.

A heater element inside the fuel supply to the filters line is a piece of magic in action, if you can find one that fits, which is perhaps a problem. Freightliner was the first I knew of to use them in production vehicles. When it got to 25 below zero, the in-line fuel heater guys in our fleet had nary a problem, even when others used correct blend / additize.

Just one opinion, right or wrong, but with 40 plus years of Winter diesels experience. Got the too many hours of laying on my back with a Bernzomatic and salamanders bruises to prove it.

You are probably aware of this, but, if it's relevant to your situation -- Biodiesel and biodiesel blends do not do well in the cold. If I had it in a vehicle tank when 32F temps came around, I'd go so far as to drain and replace it. It's that bad.

If you're so inclined, a google study of how they do diesel in Canada & Alaska often reveals a number of methods to keep ahead of the cold, including battery warmers, APUs, and so on and so forth. I don't think you need to go that far, but I'm not sure where you are.

It was 7 degrees F this morning and I was able to get the tractor started after warming the engine with a 250 watt heat-lamp, in the engine compartment covered with a tarp for three hours. I'm positive that a 600 watt heater in the lower radiator hose will resolve my issue. I've purchased the heater and new antifreeze. Now I'm waiting for a warmer day to do it. I've got a salamander but can wait on the weather.

reply to Grumpy
I have heard that even from sites that advocate Bio-Diesel, that in some climates they suggest running the tank down and using commercial fuels in the winter.

Interesting Diesel side fact.. since Diesel is exactly the same as #2 heating oil(Only colored blue and taxed instead of red and untaxed).. some areas people have to run Kerosine in winter because the #2 gets too thick if they have an exterior above ground oil tank.
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[65 Arcanist]Filan(High Elf) Zone: Broadband Reports

#2 oil for home heating and on road diesel are very similar, but not always the same. It's a long story why, but you really really, REALLY don't want to use heating oil in a late model diesel on highway vehicle, however tempting it may be. It's a sulfur thing.

Diesel & 2 oil turn to jelly in deep cold. On road diesel is either cut with kero and or additized to reduce gelling in cold weather locations. The ratio of cut* is determined by climate. Here in southern New England, a 50/50 cut of Diesel & Kero is popular. Up closer to the Arctic Circle, 100% Kero is required. Some have luck with additives only and no kero. Others cut with kero & additize as well. When the wheels don't move, neither does the income.

Even more boring diesel talk -- I was a truckload petroleum hauler for a number of years. I was also a truckload diesel consumer and retailer buying 7500 gallons every few days. On to the point -- Here in New England, there are two choices for diesel at the loading racks - regular and premium**. Regular would typically test out at around 40 or 45 cetane, whereas the premium would weigh in at around 50 cetane. The bad news - last I knew, there was no regulation on the two at the consumer level. You don't know what you're getting, despite what the diesel pump may say. Many in the trucking industry will swear that the higher cetane fuel will directly correlate to longer engine life and fewer repairs. I recall one large fleet doing a multi year study on this as one source of info on it. It seems to make sense, but I can't give lab proven proof to the theory, although perhaps someone else can.

These products »www.powerservice.com/ seem to have the best reputation among diesel additives. I would want to believe these folks »www.stanadyne.com/view.php?id=45 also have excellent products, for they are (or were) injection pump manufacturers by trade. Unfortunately I could never find any diesel additive comparison tests, and so had to go it by seat of the pants.

Next chapter of Grumpy's boring posts talk -
Why it would be prudent to make Houston Katrina proof!
Coming soon to an insomnia treatment center near you!

*The base stock of the diesel product also determines the level of how much to cut, but finding out an accurate cold filter plugging point on what you are buying for diesel is often difficult if not impossible to determine. Roll up to the diesel pump and ask the clerk, "What's the CFPP on this stuff"? and see what it gets you.

**I don't doubt the higher cetane is achieved via additizing crap fuel. The "brewmasters" at the racks are tight lipped about what they do to tweak fuels. Proprietary secrets.

I was recently thumbing through an old book that my father left me: "Dyke's Automotive and Gasoline Engine Encyclopedia" 1937 edition. It classified engines fuels as gasoline, oil, kerosene and distillate. Tractor engines are listed under one or more of those categories. Some engines had manifold heaters that were switched on/off depending on the fuel being used.