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sk1939

join:2010-10-23
france
kudos:6
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Electrical Refurbishing

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Before: Double lug neutral.
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Before: Double lug ground and hot.
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After: Pigtails and Gorilla Wire Nuts
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After: Pigtails and Gorilla Wire Nuts
Day 1:

So for the past day or so I've been sporadically smelling the scent of burned electrical, and in my hunt to find the source I've been replacing and fixing things as I go.

I placed a box extender due to the size of the wirenuts, and added a ground screw for the box which is pigtailed to the (undersized) romex ground; the outlet is likewise pigtailed.

I did fix the ground screw after the photo was taken, so the wire is now moving in a clockwise direction.

Also, I found one that while the feeder and and continuation cables are 12 gauge, there is one cable that branches off that is 14. More on what I plan to do with that circuit later, but the question is if I downsize the currently 20 A breaker, would I then be required to meet current code requirements in respect to the rest of the panel since it is not a 1:1 replacement.

sk1939

join:2010-10-23
france
kudos:6
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Click for full size
Before
Click for full size
After
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After
Day 1 Continued:

I found this crowded junction box, and asst'd wires, and added an expansion to that too, just to help with fill size. The cloth BX scares me personally, but I'm not about to replace it simple because I can't find where it goes after it leaves the room.

alkizmo

join:2007-06-25
Pierrefonds, QC

reply to sk1939
Have you smelled your electronics? A burnt transistor/capacitor or whatever chip can stink up a place too.


sk1939

join:2010-10-23
france
kudos:6

I thought about that, but there's nothing in the room other than a cordless phone and a clock radio.


sk1939

join:2010-10-23
france
kudos:6
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reply to sk1939

Click for full size
Before: Backstabbed
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Before: Box is already leaning
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After: Box has fallen into the wall.
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After: How it was held into place.
The box has fallen into the wall. The wall is 1/8? in thick wood paneling so the question is would a PVC Old Work box work, or would I have to gerrymander something?


whizkid3
Premium,MVM
join:2002-02-21
Queens, NY
kudos:8

As for the 14AWG extension, what is it for, and how long is it? It may be code-compliant as there are at least one exception that permits this. Aside from that, I would replace the wire; rather than down-size the breaker.

Whether the old-work box will work on 1/8th inch paneling, I couldn't tell you. Is the paneling even strong enough to hold the box? Think you will have to try it.

Why is the ground wire in your octagon box extension, sticking out the way it is? It should be wrapped around a threaded grounding screw in the base box. (Given its age, that probably means tapping and adding a green grounding screw.)

Oh - and glad to see you went with a self-grounding light switch.


sk1939

join:2010-10-23
france
kudos:6
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Click for full size
Ground for this outlet, which is controlled by the switch with the box issue.
I'm going to have to try it, or break out the Sawzall.

It's sticking out because it's wrapped around the screw that held the cover plate on and feeds an outlet light (it's bizarre).


whizkid3
Premium,MVM
join:2002-02-21
Queens, NY
kudos:8

1 edit

said by sk1939:

I'm going to have to try it, or break out the Sawzall. It's sticking out because it's wrapped around the screw that held the cover plate on and feeds an outlet light (it's bizarre).

Well, I am sure you know that you can't use cover-plate screws as ground terminals. You can use a grounding clip over the edge of the box extension, however, which might make your life simpler.


nunya
Who is John Galt?
Premium,MVM
join:2000-12-23
O Fallon, MO
kudos:5
Reviews:
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reply to sk1939
In pic #4, post 1, you have the wire wrapped backward on screw.
Should always be "clockwise" or it will fall off.

Wrapping ground wires around clamps is not acceptable. Use a ground screw or tang.

To hold your switchbox in, you need "Madison Straps" (AKA "Battleship" or "Two-men-in-a-boat" or "F-clips"). They are cheap and on the shelf at Lowes Depot. You'll have to lift the box, as some Jack Wagon cut the hole out too big on the top.

You need metal boxes because of the BX (unless it's romex behind the switch).
One nice thing about your BX is it includes the bonding wire (a rare find). This means the BX sheath can be used as ground.

The Gorilla Nuts are nice aren't they? They make those here in town. I recently took a little impromptu tour of the factory (I was there picking up some other stuff). Very nice people. Nice to see something made in the USA. Even better that it's made here in O'Fallon.

--
...because I care.



whizkid3
Premium,MVM
join:2002-02-21
Queens, NY
kudos:8

reply to whizkid3

said by whizkid3:

Oh - and glad to see you went with a self-grounding light switch.

Correction - it looks like the light switch is wired using type-NM cable (note the type-NM cable connector). The self-grounding switch only works when you properly attach the ground wire from the type-NM cable to the box. Again, tap & thread a ground screw in, or use a ground clip.)

Also, your NM cables to the box that you plug the light fixtures into, could use some staples within 12" from the box to make it code-compliant.

(You knew you were going to get picked on, didn't you?)

sk1939

join:2010-10-23
france
kudos:6
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reply to whizkid3

Click for full size
Old: Floodlight switch with switched neutrals.
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Old:Inside the box
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It's for an outdoor floodlight that doesn't work. I'm abandoning the feed for the light in place, and using the incoming romex to feed a GFCI which I"m putting in where the light switch used to be.

Lower wire is the feed, upper feeds the light.

sk1939

join:2010-10-23
france
kudos:6
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reply to nunya
Already fixed that.

I figured that, I'll add a ground clip later.

I'll take a look and see.

The switch is just romex with hot as hot and the neutral as return.

That's good to know, that's one of the things I was unsure of.

They are, my fingers are much happier now than they were with the normal plastic ones.

Edit: The last owners who had the house really kludged the electrical apparently.


sk1939

join:2010-10-23
france
kudos:6
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reply to whizkid3
Yeah I knew that as soon as I pulled the box out of the wall. Can't ground it at all since they completely cut the ground wire at both ends, I would have to re-run it.

The blue NM is, the other I may pull out yet and replace it so I can have a functioning ground (although that is unlikely). If I don't pull it out, I'll tack it into place.

Of course I did, but it's why I check these things.



AMD Phreak
OSHA Safety Nazi
Premium
join:2003-12-14

reply to sk1939
Is that romex exposed to the elements?


sk1939

join:2010-10-23
france
kudos:6

Yup, and that light isn't mounted on an electrical box either.



AMD Phreak
OSHA Safety Nazi
Premium
join:2003-12-14

Nice.

You have your hands full.



mattmag
Premium,ExMod 2000-03
join:2000-04-09
NW Illinois
kudos:3

reply to sk1939
I'm kind of fond of that outside ringer unit. Can you hook it up to your cellphone??


sk1939

join:2010-10-23
france
kudos:6

I doubt it, although I could hook it up to the phone probably. Right now it doesn't actually do anything unless you ring the bell by the side door (that no one uses).



fifty nine

join:2002-09-25
Sussex, NJ
kudos:1

reply to mattmag

said by mattmag:

I'm kind of fond of that outside ringer unit. Can you hook it up to your cellphone??

I remember radioshack in the 80s and 90s selling extension bells for your phone.

sk1939

join:2010-10-23
france
kudos:6
Reviews:
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1 edit

reply to sk1939

Click for full size
The hole is too small.
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Love having a Dremel.
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They cut the ground all the way back, annoyingly.
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Still enough wire to be functional.
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Switch in place. I mangled the one end trying to break the circlets off.
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Tacked into place every foot.
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Putting in the GFCI.
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GFCI in place.
Day 2:

Fixing the switch. Annoyingly, they cut the ground all the way back. Strangely, they wired it on the other end for whatever reason.

Also tacked the NM Whizkid mentioned, and put in the GFCI where the switched neutral switch was.

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