Technical > PC Hardware Discussion/Reviews > ASUS P6T Delux failure?

ASUS P6T Delux failure?

Was the psu bad?

If so, psu can take out mobo and any other part... so it could have been a psu that died and took out other parts...

I haven't tested old PSU yet as i dont have a tester. i was kind of hanging my hat on my empirical test.

reply to heliox
Disconnect all the case front panel (system panel as the manual describes them) connectors from the motherboard (or the Q connector if you are using it) and then try the motherboard power button again. I note you tried the power button on the motherboard but I think you need to disconnect the case connectors to do this test properly.

If this does nothing, no fans or even hard drives spin, then you are down to another bad psu or motherboard as you have taken the power button connections/wiring out of the equation.
Ideally, at this point, you would test the 2nd psu but I agree that it is unlikely that a second (especially seasonic) supply would be bad and would be presenting in exactly the same way.

Just for shits and grins you could try unplugging the machine from the wall entirely, press the power button a few times, let the machine sit for a while. Also while it is unplugged use the clrtc jumper to clear the cmos as well.

If it's still no joy then it is looking like the motherboard is gone, though it wouldn't hurt to test the new power supply as well.

Thanks for the heads-up about the front panel/ Q connector. I didn't know that. I'll double check that tonight. I'll probably swing by Fry's or Micro Center and get a PSU tester too.

Like you, I doubt the second PSU is DOA.

Does the jumper nuke my bios settings? I've never done that.
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"Government big enough to supply everything you need is big enough to take everything you have" Gerald Ford

Yes, it will most likely. You want to disable wall power when you use the CMOS CLR jumper too, so you don't damage the board. For added assurance of a clear, remove the better when doing CMOS CLR, and DO NOT forget to put it make in normal position (the jumper) before plugging in the system!

Sometimes a case switch goes bad, that can be circumvented by using a screw driver across the right pins, but is risky because if you short the wrong pins, bye bye board. Only short the pins for a moment, like a 1/2 second.

You can check a power supply by putting a jumper between the 24 pin connector's green wire and a black wire:

»www.overclock.net/t/96712/how-to···mponents

Which you only do momentarily. Be careful not to touch any other pin, some can carry a lot of current before they blow, enough to even make a fire. I suggest taking the power supply OUT of the case when you do this and using a multimeter to check voltages.

If your lucky, just the power supply is on the fritz. Smell it for smoke.
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Join Teams Helix and Discovery. Rest in Peace, Leonard David Smith, my best friend, you are missed badly! Rest in peace, Pop, glad our last years were good. Please pray for Colin, he has ependymoma, a brain cancer, donate to a children's Hospital.

Thanks for the instructions!

No smoke smell.

I don't (yet) have a new PSU tester, I am going to get one. However, the likelihood of having a DOA PSU (while possible) is not good.
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"Government big enough to supply everything you need is big enough to take everything you have" Gerald Ford

You do not need a tester per say if you have a multi meter.

reply to heliox
What Matt says. The cheap 20-30 dollar power supply testers ONLY turn on the supply just like jumping the green wire and testing the voltages to see if they are in range. A multimeter can do it better, you can borrow one or buy one from Radio Shack. There are cheap models.

Voltages that matter are only +12VDC (Yellow) 5 VDC, 3.3 VDC, 5 VDC Standby, Board sense, start board (green), and a negative voltage that isn't used:

»www.hardwaresecrets.com/article/181

You can buy a tester, but it won't do a professional test (professional tests use very very expensive machines that apply a dynamic load and look at the waveform of the output, too). The test you buy won't place anything more than a very light dummy load and such testers should only be hooked up for about a minute and no more.

If you insist on getting a tester, get one with an LCD on it that will give you specifc numbers, the cheaper ones with only little LED lights are almost worthless

Look at these:

»www.newegg.com/Product/ProductLi···y+tester

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Join Teams Helix and Discovery. Rest in Peace, Leonard David Smith, my best friend, you are missed badly! Rest in peace, Pop, glad our last years were good. Please pray for Colin, he has ependymoma, a brain cancer, donate to a children's Hospital.

reply to heliox
"Does the jumper nuke my bios settings? I've never done that."

Yes, this is why I suggest you do this only as a last resort when you have decided it is the motherboard and not the psu or the switch. The power button on the board, with the system panel connectors(and Q connector, detach it all) detached from the header, should rule out switch/wiring, mistaken header connections from the equation. Then you are down to another dead psu or motherboard.