Technical > Home Improvement > A.O. Smith hot water heater

A.O. Smith hot water heater

Pictures would be most useful.

reply to HWH leaks
How old is the tank? Model / Serial#? and yeah, some good pictures might help us help you.

Agreed, need to know how old the tank is..

I dont typically see a gas control leak from the threads unless there is a major thermal expansion problem. Do you have a properly maintained expansion tank?

-j
--
if it aint broke, tweak it!!
currently on FiOS (kick aZZ!)

reply to mattmag

the leak

Expantion tank »css.handyguyspodcast.com/wp-cont···002s.jpg

Basically if you have a backflow preventer on the line (at the meter, or elsewhere) when the water heats, it expands and has nowhere to go, so it works it way out elsewhere to try and reduce the pressure that has built up. Normally results in a small leak somewhere in the system.

reply to HWH leaks
You might as well disassemble, look everything over, apply the tape and reassemble. As far as I know, you'd have to buy a new gas valve if it is somehow broken in the tank, which would pretty much cost as much as a new tank anyways.

reply to netboy34
So if I install an expansion tank in the supply line to the house as shown I should get by with dissambling, inspecting for damage and reinstalling...hopefully. The tank itself should have been protected from damage by the TPC valve, correct?

Best way to troubleshoot an expansion problem is to put a gauge on the system, at the water heater drain valve, or a laundry sink. With no one else using water, turn the main burner on for 5min. If the pressure starts rising past the normal standing cold pressure, you have an expansion issue.

You could also have acidic water, and its attacking the brass. Expansion problem is more common tho.

-j
--
if it aint broke, tweak it!!
currently on FiOS (kick aZZ!)

reply to HWH Leaks
edit: took too long to type I didn't see tp0d 's reply...
He's a plumber, listen to him...
gonna leave what I typed for the fact that I took a while to type it and might save him some time later

I'm not a plumber, but I would say in theory, yes. You can also call your water supplier to see if they have installed a backflow preventer on your line. if not, then the issue might be something else with the tank.

the T&P valve is typically made to relieve on pressure at 150 psig and/or on temperature at 210 degrees F. So if the pressure did get that high the T&P would activate, but I bet at the same time you would see a small stream of water from around the thermostat threadings pouring out as well...

What would worry me as a homeowner, the thermostat is installed at the factory, why would it be leaking from there and not the drain valve which is lower. However, it also looks like whoever installed it went higher end to get the brass drain valve Vs. the plastic one that usually comes with most tanks that I have seen...

What I would do:

Call to see if you have a backflow prevention device on your main.
If so, look around to see if you have an expansion tank somewhere on your cold line. Mine isn't near the water heater, because of space the builder put it in between the joists of the ceiling in the next room. When I finish my basement I will most likely have to relocate it.
If you don't have an expansion tank, call some plumbers in your area. Some around here ran specials when the utility started installing backflow preventers.

I would then turn off the gas line to the heater as well as off on the thermostat, drain the tank first with the supply on for a couple minutes, then finish with the supply off and the top most faucet with separate hot water handle opened. Detatch the piezo igniter at the connector. Detach the thermocouple. Double check that the gas is off. Detatch the gas line from the burner then from the supply.

At this point, the thermostat should be free to move. Carefully remove and inspect. If all is well, retape with teflon (blue spool) and reverse steps. Make some soapy water and put over the gas connections. Turn the gas on to check for leaks. If it makes bubbles, turn gas off and tighten the connection more. Fill tank and check for leaks again.

I'm sure others with more experience than me will chime in, but I've had to replace a burner on my Mother-in-law's State water heater (basically same as AO Smith) and minus the draining and pulling the termostat, I had to do the same steps.

Thanks to all for your replies.......
I know what my weekend project is now.

heres the kind of gauge u want..

»www.homedepot.com/h_d1/N-5yc1v/R···Id=10051

-j
--
if it aint broke, tweak it!!
currently on FiOS (kick aZZ!)

reply to HWH leaks
I just had a leak show up somewhere near the Cold water inlet to my electric water heater. Even on careful examination I could not determine the exact leak location as either the pipe threads or somewhere in the tank wall. With that my solution was to take 2 hours and replace the entire unit. (electric is probably a bit easier than gas) Shut off the electric (actually did that the day before) shut off the water, start the drain process, go buy new unit and new inlet and outlet hoses, return remove old unit, slide in new unit, hook up, fill, check for leaks, turn on electric, watch football game, go take a hot shower..

In your case, since it is on a vertical surface it should be easier to determine the location of the leak. You'll need to get a direct visual on the pipe fitting into the tank to determine your best course of action.