garys_2kPremium
join:2004-05-07
Farmington, MI | reply to Fronkman
Re: Gas fireplace insert not very hot Actually, you SHOULD have a CO alarm in the area with any gas appliance, vented or not. I doubt an unvented gas fireplace is any worse than a gas cooktop or oven, but again: a working CO detector nearby is important. |
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| said by garys_2k:Actually, you SHOULD have a CO alarm in the area with any gas appliance, vented or not. I doubt an unvented gas fireplace is any worse than a gas cooktop or oven, but again: a working CO detector nearby is important. Agreed, I have one with a LCD display that records the peak CO value even if it is not high enough to set off the CO alarm. My unvented logs have not caused any CO for it to even register. |
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| reply to Fronkman
said by Fronkman:said by Automate:I love my un-vented logs. They are adjustable from 22,000 to 40,000 BTUs/hr. We use them at 22,000 almost all the time because they put out so much heat.
those things scare me. you are depending on a single sensor (oxygen deprivation sensor) to protect you from CO poisoning. Even vented logs have a single flame detect sensor that if it failed could cause your house to fill with unburned gas. A combustible gas alarm is not a bad idea. |
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 jack bGone FishingPremium,MVM
join:2000-09-08
Cape Cod
kudos:1 | In all my years of experience working in emergency response with a very large northeast natural gas utility, I have never come across a single thermocouple gas valve safety that failed in the open position and allowed gas to flow to the appliance with no pilot flame present. Never.
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| said by jack b:In all my years of experience working in emergency response with a very large northeast natural gas utility, I have never come across a single thermocouple gas valve safety that failed in the open position and allowed gas to flow to the appliance with no pilot flame present. Never. And that is the way it should be since the controls are designed to be fail "safe".
I know you can't believe everything you read on the internet but this review claims his gas valve was stuck open. »reviews.lowes.com/0534/3088665/r···18006733
If it is true, my guess would be that the sensor did not fail but instead, due to poor installation, some foreign material got stuck in the gas valve. |
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| reply to USR56K
said by USR56K:said by Jack_in_VA:+1 Gas logs in a fireplace with the damper open will suck out more heat than they provide. There is a reason I linked to each insert's PDF manual in the OP. For mine it states, quote:
Make sure that both liners will pass through existing damper area. Remove or lock damper to allow the passage of the flexible liners. If the damper will not allow the passage of both liners, DO NOT PROCEED FURTHER. (If fireplace is masonry) Consult a local mason for removal of the damper without risk of structural damage or leakage (if the fireplace is factory built) The appliance may NOT be installed into the fireplace.
I tried adjusting the air mixture, but the damn thing wouldnt want to budge. Guess I'll hire a Lennox tech to evaluate the whole gas insert setup, as I suspect the previous owner install it (and thus like everything else in this house, done the wrong way). restricting the air to get yellow flames witout the rock wool in place under the logs is extremely dangerous, because of the greatly increased carbon monoxide produced. without the rock wool, the flames are SUPPOSED to be blue!, just like any gas appliance. |
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 mityfowlPremium
join:2000-11-06
Dallas, TX | said by iknow :said by USR56K:said by Jack_in_VA:+1 Gas logs in a fireplace with the damper open will suck out more heat than they provide. There is a reason I linked to each insert's PDF manual in the OP. For mine it states, quote:
Make sure that both liners will pass through existing damper area. Remove or lock damper to allow the passage of the flexible liners. If the damper will not allow the passage of both liners, DO NOT PROCEED FURTHER. (If fireplace is masonry) Consult a local mason for removal of the damper without risk of structural damage or leakage (if the fireplace is factory built) The appliance may NOT be installed into the fireplace.
I tried adjusting the air mixture, but the damn thing wouldnt want to budge. Guess I'll hire a Lennox tech to evaluate the whole gas insert setup, as I suspect the previous owner install it (and thus like everything else in this house, done the wrong way). restricting the air to get yellow flames witout the rock wool in place under the logs is extremely dangerous, because of the greatly increased carbon monoxide produced. without the rock wool, the flames are SUPPOSED to be blue!, just like any gas appliance. +1 |
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 USR56K
join:2000-05-20
Lynnwood, WA | reply to USR56K
Fireplace tech finally came this morning to clean/repair.
He added more of the rock wool in the front.
Closed the air vent more.
Increased the 'flame height' knob by 100%. The new low is the old max.
Now the IR thermometer reads ~390F, were as before it was ~350F. The tech also recommended removing the 2nd panel of glass, since it blocks a decent amount of radiant heat. That's something I'll consider here in a few days.
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| reply to USR56K
Thanks for the update and I'm glad you got it all fixed. Are the flames still blue or are they orange now? |
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USR56K
join:2000-05-20
Lynnwood, WA | reply to USR56K
I removed the 2nd layer of glass the other day. WOW, what a difference in heat output!
Now it maxes out the IR thermometer past 450*F, I no longer can keep my arm in front for more than ~20 seconds, and it's on considerably less to maintain 70F in the room. It looks a little weird as there are obvious pieces missing so I'll probably have to explore some different face options. Really makes me wonder WTF the previous owner went with this "cast pillar face" as its so inefficient with the heat.
On startup, flames are still blue, but after it warms up they're more yellow and taller.
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