Technical > Home Improvement > Attic into "Office" / storage space.

Attic into "Office" / storage space.

plan

Re: Attic into "Office" / storage space.

Half the house has a vaulted ceiling so in pic #1 that wall of "brick" insulation marks the point at which the floor of the attic raises about an addition 2 feet. So certainly not tall enough to walk under. I guess we could floor part of it and slide boxes/tubs on top of it.

Quiet in terms of I have a 4 year old who would be room next to me if I don't move to the attic.

Window AC certainly wouldn't be perfect, however I would be willing to do it if it saved me loads of money.

Joist support, moisture (vapor barrier), and temperature controls are my biggest worries.

Thanks for your input. I plan on having a contractor come out to take a look give me an estimate and some ideas. Based on their prices and everything they mention I'll need will go a long way towards determining if its a do it myself job or not. I'll admit I'm not very knowledgeable but I can work with some tools and my "helper" was a maintenance man at a nursing home for a large number of years and the other helper is a wood worker. So assuming its not to technical we should be able to manage the majority of the work, IMHO.

reply to alkizmo
I did a small office in my garage with a "window" AC permanently mounted through the wall.

There is no getting around it, it was noisy, but not as noisy as one would think. When making phone calls I would set the fan on low speed and didn't have any problems. I would put the fan on high speed when the kids were making noise to block them out - I used the fan as a white noise generator. Most of the time I left the unit on medium fan speed. I did not find the compressor to be noisy as much as the fan.

Before purchasing, check several different model when running at store. Some $99 cheap ones are really noisy. For a little bit more dollars you can get digital temp display with 3 speed fans...even with IR remote. The remote is great for quick low fan setting when making telephone calls.

Things I would do over...
1. Getting an AC unit to fit within the studs in stead of having to make a header. Yes, they are a little more expensive and harder to find, but that would have made up for all the extra work in making a proper header for the opening in the wall.
2. Getting a proper AC unit made for walls and not rigging up a window unit for a wall installation. Again for the extra work in modifications I could have got the proper unit.
3. Getting a unit with built in heat (even if it was electric heat) because I ended up using an electric space heater to keep warm.
4. Finding out Home Depot carries such a unit (sometimes you have to ask) only after installing the window unit - Ugh!

reply to evilt00l
If the town name under your name is correct, you will need to add least some insulation + a vapor barrier above your head...

What is the high of the attic because it seem a bit low?

reply to evilt00l
You have orbs in there too. I's ask them to leave before doing anything.

reply to evilt00l
I'm impressed by the amount of insulation in your place.

reply to evilt00l
The joist that is supporting the ceiling is 1 part of engineered roof. If is unlikely that your new room was part if that design.

Does your community require building permits?

Do you have room down stairs for a code compliant stair case?

Do you have room in your electric panel for the 4 the circuits you will need? 2 for AC 1 for lighting and 1 for outlets.

If you louse 8 inches of head room to a new floor and ceiling how much of the room will still have 7 feet of head room?

Walta

reply to evilt00l
How do you plan on getting out of the attic if there is a fire near the staircase?

reply to walta
Walta:

I'm a bit confused about the building permits however I believe I am OK either way. I live just outside the city limits in the county. When I put up a fence I was told as long as "other didn't complain and I the land surveyed I was ok no permit needed" because I was in the county and not the city. That said I believe I even meet the city requirements as to not need a permit as "that structural members such as joists, studs, beams, rafters, sheeting, support columns or foundations are being replaced, removed or changed in location" I would simply be adding installation, electrical, drywall. I wouldn't be doing any changes to structure.

As for the stairs I had planned on something just like:
»www.lowes.com/pd_359848-287-AH22···cetInfo=

Electric panel was a good question and one I had not thought of prior. I just assumed we would have enough space. But if I do indeed need 4 breakers I might have a problem as it appears I only have room for 2 more.

I have not measured head room however based upon eye it seems there would me more than enough for standing in the center and getting harder towards the slopes. Why would the flooring take up 8 inches?

The Pig:

Going with the plan of a window, I can get a window escape ladder such as this:

»www.lowes.com/pd_89398-65213-468···cetInfo=

reply to evilt00l


I would expect a quality-minded contractor to bring in a structural engineer to determine loads and the required supporting members required to make that ceiling a live-load bearing floor.

reply to evilt00l
Your roof is stick framed, and that's really good for what you want. If you had trusses, it would be next to impossible to convert the space for a reasonable price. With a stick framed roof, you will have to be concerned with making sure the floor joists are of adequate size. Most likely they aren't big enough now, and you will have to beef up the floor system. Second you have some other framing that looks like it will need to be moved, such as the knee wall and the collar ties. To do it right and make it safe there is no doubt you need someone with more experience to draw up the plans. After that you may be able to do it yourself depending on your skill level.

reply to evilt00l
Depending on local codes, the floor joists need to be at least 2x8.

Consider closed-cell polyurethane for insulating the underside of the roof. You may not achieve the same R value as you currently have, however.

If you insulate the underside of the roof you will need to re-design the attic ventilation system.

You may be able to get roof windows that meet egress requirements. As you no doubt realize, all of the existing insulation in that area will likely have to be hauled out. It will be a lot easier to move it out through a hole in the roof than to haul it through your living space. See where I'm going with this?

Engage a licensed AIA architect to make sure egress and structural requirements are met. Do not accept the specs of a bidding (i.e. Low Bid Larry) contractor unless at the very minimum the local authority requires plan review and approval in advance of permit issuance.

When you hire a contractor require your licensed professionals to sign off on progress before each payment.
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reply to evilt00l
If no government body cares you are free to do as you please.

Even if no is looking over your shoulder most of rules are written in blood after somebody dies then make a new rule.

That stair will not pass any inspection for daily use. Fail No 32 inch railing. Fail baluster spacing. Fail rise more than 9 inches, so on. How will you feel if you MIL decided she needs to get up there and falls?

Your ceiling joist are likely sized to hold up drywall and insulation not a floor and room full of furniture and people. The current joists are likely 6 inches tall. 10 inches may be the miminum and larger if there is no load bearing wall center under them. Only your engineer knows for sure.

I would plan on a PTAC heater AC under the new window like you find in most hotel rooms.

Walta

reply to evilt00l
Thanks guys you are giving me lots of ideas and questions. I do plan on hiring someone to come out and give me an estimate and ideas before I start any work. So the more questions you give me to ask or ideas you give me for making this work the better.

My ideal budget to get this done in would be in the 3-4k range does this seem way to small or something which might be able to be achieved in that price range?

I'm not looking for anything fancy. But I would like it to be solid, safe, and not an eye sore. Additionally I would prefer it to not cause me any issues if I go to sell the house in the future.

reply to evilt00l
I did it decades ago in my first house. Sistered in some joists, framed in the sides, small window at one end, big one at the other (Fire & it was of the type that fully came out for loading in materials from the adjacent garage roof).
Put in a fan to suck out moisture behind my new walls.
Added plastic sheeting to the roof etc.

I made a new permanent ships ladder in the kitchen. Turned out real nice. Then I sold it a year later

Things to consider:
Load on the outside walls.
Load on your ceiling.
Permits
Fire, 2 ways out.
Electrical.
Remember, make a change and no permit and something happens and your insurance won't pay for repairs or lawsuits if someone gets hurt. Most people do not think of that.

reply to evilt00l

reply to evilt00l

Re: Attic into "Office" / storage space.

reply to evilt00l

Re: Attic into "Office" / storage space.

reply to evilt00l
My MIL is moving in with us in a few months and we're doing a room addition.

I feel your pain.

One thing to consider is whether the attic floor is designed as a floor or a ceiling.

This was a problem with our garage.

The crossways wood was 2x4 rather than 2x12 so when we tried to store stuff there the floor sagged since it was not designed to handle the weight.

Dave