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Prevailer
Freeze a poopy.
Premium Member
join:2001-10-03
Your Mom

Prevailer

Premium Member

Stop a gate post from leaning

I had a 6' privacy fence put in last summer, and shortly after that, it stopped closing properly. The gate is held by one 4x4 that's directly in the ground (no concrete) and right up against the house. Just the post is holding weight of the gate. (I've got issues with the people that did this.) As a result, the post has started leaning in the direction of the gate, and the top the side of the gate is starting to rub against the permanent part of the fence, preventing it from closing.

I'd like to avoid pulling the whole thing out and cementing it since it's already in. It sits right up against the ceinderblock exterior of my garage. Can I just get some L brackets or even a strip of angle-iron and anchor it to the wall? Tapcons in the mortar and screws into the post?

nunya
LXI 483
MVM
join:2000-12-23
O Fallon, MO

nunya

MVM

I'd give it a shot, but don't anchor into mortar. You need to drill into the brick or block for it to work.

Prevailer
Freeze a poopy.
Premium Member
join:2001-10-03
Your Mom

Prevailer

Premium Member

said by nunya:

I'd give it a shot, but don't anchor into mortar. You need to drill into the brick or block for it to work.

Good point. Was only thinking mortar because I don't have a hammer-drill. But the brick is definitely the way to go. Besides, it gives me an excuse to borrow tools
towerdave
join:2002-01-16
O Fallon, IL

towerdave

Member

said by Prevailer:

said by nunya:

I'd give it a shot, but don't anchor into mortar. You need to drill into the brick or block for it to work.

Good point. Was only thinking mortar because I don't have a hammer-drill. But the brick is definitely the way to go. Besides, it gives me an excuse to BUY tools

Fixed.

TD

Prevailer
Freeze a poopy.
Premium Member
join:2001-10-03
Your Mom

Prevailer

Premium Member

said by towerdave:

said by Prevailer:

said by nunya:

I'd give it a shot, but don't anchor into mortar. You need to drill into the brick or block for it to work.

Good point. Was only thinking mortar because I don't have a hammer-drill. But the brick is definitely the way to go. Besides, it gives me an excuse to BUY tools

Fixed.

TD

lol. Gotta third baby coming sometime in the next two days. Power tools are officially off the shopping list for a few years.

The Pig
I know you want to be me
Premium Member
join:2009-09-11

The Pig to Prevailer

Premium Member

to Prevailer
The cinderblock will not hold very long!
Cementing it in is really the only way to do it right!
And being you already have a hole started it won't take much to widen it (with the post out) to make room for cement!

garys_2k
Premium Member
join:2004-05-07
Farmington, MI

garys_2k to Prevailer

Premium Member

to Prevailer
I suggest using a threaded rod going all the way through the post and block wall, with a washer and nut on the post side and some sort of backup plate or angle iron inside of the block wall (in addition to the washer and nut).

mityfowl
Premium Member
join:2000-11-06
Dallas, TX

mityfowl to Prevailer

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to Prevailer
Gravity is always going to win.

Prevailer
Freeze a poopy.
Premium Member
join:2001-10-03
Your Mom

Prevailer to garys_2k

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to garys_2k
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said by garys_2k:

I suggest using a threaded rod going all the way through the post and block wall, with a washer and nut on the post side and some sort of backup plate or angle iron inside of the block wall (in addition to the washer and nut).

WHen you say all the way through the wall, you mean like this? With some sort of 10" bolt and a nut/plate on the interior with some sort of sealant?

Msradell
Premium Member
join:2008-12-25
Louisville, KY

Msradell

Premium Member

said by Prevailer:

WHen you say all the way through the wall, you mean like this? With some sort of 10" bolt and a nut/plate on the interior with some sort of sealant?

I also probably put one on the other side of the post so the post doesn't twist. Doing it that way it will last as long as the post does. If you use two of them you could use one piece of channel or angle long enough to catch both bolts/all thread on the inside!

fluffy
@teksavvy.com

fluffy to Prevailer

Anon

to Prevailer
pull it out, cement it and do it properly.
get a 10 ft post and put 3.5 ft into the ground with cement.

Prevailer
Freeze a poopy.
Premium Member
join:2001-10-03
Your Mom

Prevailer

Premium Member

said by fluffy :

pull it out, cement it and do it properly.
get a 10 ft post and put 3.5 ft into the ground with cement.

That would necessitate renting an augur and running it right next to my foundation. I don't know why but that makes me nervous.

Shadow01
Premium Member
join:2003-10-24
Wasteland

1 recommendation

Shadow01 to Prevailer

Premium Member

to Prevailer
The through bolt is your best option at this time. I have 2 10ft wide double gates made out of 1x6s on 6x6 post and the post are cambered away from the center of the gates and over the last 15 years they have "straightened" up about 1/8" on each side on both gates. Luckily I left a shade over a 1/4" between the gate halves and don't have an issue yet. At some point the 3' deep concrete the posts are in will have to be removed and the post pulled back and concreted back in the ground.
Concrete works, but it is not the permanent fix in your situation. You need a way to pull the top of the posts away from the center point of the gate and you do not have that option. Bolts is your best fix.

fluffy
@teksavvy.com

fluffy to Prevailer

Anon

to Prevailer
just use a shovel.
you can dig a hole 3.5 ft deep and pour concrete in less than two hours.

Gbcue
Premium Member
join:2001-09-30
Santa Rosa, CA

Gbcue to Prevailer

Premium Member

to Prevailer
said by Prevailer:

said by fluffy :

pull it out, cement it and do it properly.
get a 10 ft post and put 3.5 ft into the ground with cement.

That would necessitate renting an augur and running it right next to my foundation. I don't know why but that makes me nervous.

Get a post hole digger? Also, some aluminum flashing.

mityfowl
Premium Member
join:2000-11-06
Dallas, TX

mityfowl to Prevailer

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to Prevailer
A gate needs 2 or 3 bags of cement.

garys_2k
Premium Member
join:2004-05-07
Farmington, MI

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to Prevailer
Click for full size
said by Prevailer:

said by garys_2k:

I suggest using a threaded rod going all the way through the post and block wall, with a washer and nut on the post side and some sort of backup plate or angle iron inside of the block wall (in addition to the washer and nut).

WHen you say all the way through the wall, you mean like this? With some sort of 10" bolt and a nut/plate on the interior with some sort of sealant?

Sort of. Here's my crappy rendering of what I meant...

The angle iron is just a way to back up the nut against the block, so it spreads the load over a larger area.

Prevailer
Freeze a poopy.
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join:2001-10-03
Your Mom

Prevailer

Premium Member

I see. I hadn't considered going all the way through the 4x4. I've never seen bolts that big before, but I think that idea may be best. Maybe two of them, one towards the top and one closer to halfway to displace the load? If I go through the post, then the pressure is uniform and I don't have to use two different brackets to stop it from twisting.
tcope
Premium Member
join:2003-05-07
Sandy, UT

tcope to Prevailer

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to Prevailer
I had this exact same job a few months ago. I dug up both sides and replaced the 4x4s. The one near the home was surround by the cement foundation of the home and the slab next to it. Now I don't recommend this but I dug the hole about 2' deep and then hammered in some 3' rebar until it was sticking up about 1'. I sunk 4 or 5 of them. I then pour cement into the hole and inserted the 4x4. The rebar should help stop the leaning by anchoring the cement.

I don't recommend it as I pity the bastard that needs to get that cement mass out. Granted, it would not be too difficult with a jack hammer which is what I used on another area.
Unxchay
join:2003-10-14
Milwaukee, WI

Unxchay to Prevailer

Member

to Prevailer
I wouldn't hammer-drill through the CMU wall for a through-bolt solution. Lots of opportunity for that to go wrong. If the hole isn't cleanly drilled, you'll have some sealing & flashing to do. Worse yet, the CMU could accidentally crack or shatter resulting in a much bigger headache.

I would stay 'outside' and re-set the post. Leave the post in the ground, hold it in place with a couple of temp 2x4's, dig down as deep as you can (hopefully to frost depth) with a post-hole digger and fill up the pit with quick-set concrete.

Another option, if you're afraid of digging next to the foundation, is to re-set the gate post farther away from the house. This would require removing the gate & post, enlarging the hole, resetting the post & concreting it in place. You'd also have to trim off a portion of the gate so that it closes properly.

Good luck!
TOM

davidg
Good Bye My Friend
MVM
join:2002-06-15
00000

davidg to Prevailer

MVM

to Prevailer
how wide is the gate? a 4x4 may not even be big enough if it is very large. My parents fence was originally installed with 4x4 posts for the gates and they had to replace them due to warping under the weight in a year. went back with 6x6 posts and 21 years later they are still straight.

and yes, use a set of post hole diggers. if the ground is frozen, wait until spring. it won't take long to dig a 2-3' deep hole with handheld PHDs. i just got thru installing over 350' of 6' privacy fence and honestly the gas auger was no quicker than manual diggers on most of the holes!

jkj860
The Final Frontier
join:2002-01-10
Valparaiso, IN

jkj860

Member

said by davidg:

how wide is the gate? a 4x4 may not even be big enough if it is very large. My parents fence was originally installed with 4x4 posts for the gates and they had to replace them due to warping under the weight in a year. went back with 6x6 posts and 21 years later they are still straight.

Agreed! whenever possible, gate posts should be larger. At least 4x6. Lots of stress on those points and they always sag.

The Pig
I know you want to be me
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join:2009-09-11

The Pig to Prevailer

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to Prevailer
Why not do both ways?
Widen the hole and add cement and then bolt it through the cinderblock wall like the picture you posted!

garys_2k
Premium Member
join:2004-05-07
Farmington, MI

garys_2k to Prevailer

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to Prevailer
said by Prevailer:

I see. I hadn't considered going all the way through the 4x4. I've never seen bolts that big before, but I think that idea may be best.

I doubt that you'll find bolts that big, that's why I suggest using threaded rod. Likely need over a foot of it in each part.

If you do go this way you could use two such lengths of threaded rod, one above the other, and run a single piece of angle iron inside as the backup "plate."

iknow
@optonline.net

iknow to Prevailer

Anon

to Prevailer
a wood post, even if cca40 treated, will rot in a few years if put into the ground without concrete to keep the moisture away from it. from experience!. make a round dome above the soil with the concrete around the post, it'll let the water drain away.

nunya
LXI 483
MVM
join:2000-12-23
O Fallon, MO

nunya

MVM

They still rot with concrete.

Pacrat
Old and Cranky
MVM
join:2001-03-10
Cortland, OH

Pacrat

MVM

The lime content in the concrete will deteriorate the wood of the post in a matter of a few years. Just as lime, spread over a leaf pile hastens the breakdown of the organic material, it also attacks wood... treated or untreated.

rockotman
...Blown On The Steel Breeze
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join:2000-08-06
DSotM

rockotman to Prevailer

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Proper fix:
Anchor to wall with threaded rod or set it concrete.

Quick fix that you may have to repeat every couple of years:
Fashion a wedge out of a piece of wood (I have used scraps from our split rail fence), and drive it into the ground against the post on the side to which it leans. Use a spud bar to drive it in. It will force the post back against the wall and hold it in place for a couple of years.




This assumes that the post in in the ground at good two feet or more, which it should be.

With a spud bar (you can borrow one, or buy one for about $30), you can drive the wedge into the ground to a few inches below ground level and conceal with your ground cover of choice.

Msradell
Premium Member
join:2008-12-25
Louisville, KY

Msradell to iknow

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to iknow
said by iknow:

a wood post, even if cca40 treated, will rot in a few years if put into the ground without concrete to keep the moisture away from it. from experience!. make a round dome above the soil with the concrete around the post, it'll let the water drain away.

Actually the concrete helps hold the moisture against the post and accelerates rotting unless the bottom of the post is sitting on a gravel bed below the concrete. If the post is totally encased in concrete it cannot dry out.

jkj860
The Final Frontier
join:2002-01-10
Valparaiso, IN

jkj860

Member

I have always set posts with a gravel layer at the bottom for drainage. I read about doing that years ago and it seemed to make sense.