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reply to Draiman

This topic has been closed. Reason: run its course


garys_2k
Premium
join:2004-05-07
Farmington, MI
reply to 02778712

Re: Garage addition

I just want to say that I enjoy seeing these updates and it looks like you're doing an excellent job! That space really is coming along and is definitely PRO quality! Great work.



02778712

join:2013-07-08
MA

1 recommendation

reply to Draiman

I got the octagon window casing installed. I just need to fill the nail holes, caulk it, and touch-up paint it now. The green is Frog tape so I don't get paint on the window.


02778712

join:2013-07-08
MA
reply to Draiman

I decided to go with squaring up the hallway. I got the studs installed with Tapcon's. I also got most of the baseboard and casing installed in the hallway and closet. I build the closet shelf and installed some hangers as well.


02778712

join:2013-07-08
MA
reply to Draiman

I got the lumber for the hallway box. I laid it out just to get an idea how it would look and it brought up some issues. The old concrete wall isn't square. Would you square it up or just screw right to the wall anyways and ignore the difference? My first thought is to square it up but that left a large gap on most of it. Next I figured I'd just install studs to attach too. That got me thinking if I have studs should I still use pine for the side or could I just use drywall?


02778712

join:2013-07-08
MA
reply to Draiman

Click for full size
Click for full size
Here's the room with carpet.


02778712

join:2013-07-08
MA
reply to 02778712

said by 02778712:

Confirmed Friday to have them install the carpeting and finish the hallway (grout and nosing).

Snowstorm tomorrow so it's been moved out till Monday.


02778712

join:2013-07-08
MA
reply to Draiman

Click for full size
Click for full size
Window casings done and room cleaned out ready to go for carpeting!


02778712

join:2013-07-08
MA
reply to Draiman

Confirmed Friday to have them install the carpeting and finish the hallway (grout and nosing).



02778712

join:2013-07-08
MA
reply to Draiman

Click for full size
Before
Click for full size
After
I got the casings on the windows over the holidays. I got all 3 of them caulked inside and outside plus all the nail holes filled. I only got one of the windows painted so far. I either had to wait until my painter got back from the holiday's or paint myself which sucks but I'd like the stuff done sooner then later.


02778712

join:2013-07-08
MA
reply to Cho Baka

said by Cho Baka:

said by natedj:

but it would definitely perform better if it wasn't that close to the window, and even better if it was not on an exterior wall.

That is where one normally puts a heater.

Yea you always put heat on an exterior wall. Not sure about windows but every window in my house has baseboard heat below it so it seems to be in a good spot in the garage.


Thane_Bitter
Inquire within
Premium
join:2005-01-20
reply to 02778712

Go for it, use the floor tile as a finish once you box it in. It does look rather rough as it is currently.



Cho Baka
Premium,MVM
join:2000-11-23
there
kudos:2
Reviews:
·TekSavvy DSL
·Cogeco Cable
reply to natedj

said by natedj:

but it would definitely perform better if it wasn't that close to the window, and even better if it was not on an exterior wall.

That is where one normally puts a heater.
--


02778712

join:2013-07-08
MA
reply to Draiman

The heater does a great job it's just made for 150-200 sq. ft. and the room is almost 400 sq. ft. There are no interior walls in that room either. The end walls have more insulation vs the knee walls but they stay a bit warmer which from my laser temp gauge makes all the walls about the same. The hallway heat comes up the stairs so the area the eHeat is install in is actually the warmest area in the whole room. I just need another 150-200 sq. ft. of heat in that room if I want it above 64-65.

Wood is R1 per inch so a stud would be like R3-5. It's true that windows are similar. A standard double pane window is like R2 while a standard energy star window is like R4 so your range on a window is like R2-7. The biggest part of heat loss on a window is air infiltration though and there is zero up there. It's as airtight as you can make living area. You can feel the pressure when you open/close anything in that area.

The other thing that hurts is there is nothing in the area to hold heat. Once the carpet is in and we move some stuff up there it should help. Air is a poor means to hold heat.



natedj
Elected
Premium
join:2001-06-06
Columbia, SC
reply to 02778712

said by 02778712:

said by Moorecards:

How is the eHeat heater working out ?

It's too small for the room. I need a second one or some other supplemental heat source to get it warmer then 64-65.

On Tuesday for the flooring install I popped a quartz heater up there on high. The room was 81! I had to turn it down to half power and the room stayed at 74.
»www.amazon.com/Dr-Infrared-Heate···2QZ11J6/

That heater may not be enough for the space you have, but it would definitely perform better if it wasn't that close to the window, and even better if it was not on an exterior wall.
I read a article not too long ago where different test were done on windows and they concluded that the best consumer window on the market had the same "R" value of an un-insulated stud wall.

But heater or no heater, those wood stairs sure makes the space look nice an warm.
--
Good judgement comes with experience...Experience comes after bad judgements


02778712

join:2013-07-08
MA

2 edits
reply to Draiman

Click for full size
Better visual
I'm thinking the best way to handle the concrete in the hallway is to build a box around it then paint the box the same color as the wall so it blends in. Any thoughts?

Edit: Changed images to an animated image.


02778712

join:2013-07-08
MA
reply to Draiman

Click for full size
Here's a front view of the hallway. The nosing on the bottom section of hardwood is temporary. They didn't have a long enough one so they'll be replacing it when they grout and do the carpeting. I did the red oak risers and red oak tread. There is 3 coats of finish on them right now and I want 2-3 more coats. I hope to have that done by Christmas. I started sanding and filling the nail holes on the stairs. I'll get 5-6 coats of finish on them sometime in January.


02778712

join:2013-07-08
MA
reply to Draiman

Click for full size
Click for full size
The guys who did the tile and hardwood are going to be doing the carpet. They said just use some 5 gallon paint stirs to install the baseboard with so that put the base board about 5/16" off the subfloor. I got about half the baseboards installed this weekend. I'll do the rest next weekend and the guys will be back to install the carpet tentatively on 1/3/2014.

Critsmcgee

join:2011-12-02
Reviews:
·Verizon FiOS
reply to medbuyer

They tell you on the site.
»www.eheat.com/pages/Envi-vs-Competitors.html
--
"Trust Me I'm The Doctor!" -Doctor Who

medbuyer

join:2003-11-20
kudos:4
reply to 02778712

I wonder what the difference is with this...

»www.amazon.com/Econo-Heat-0603-E···duct_top


02778712

join:2013-07-08
MA
reply to Draiman

»www.eheat.com/products/Envi-High···%29.html


medbuyer

join:2003-11-20
kudos:4
reply to Draiman

can you give me the model of that eheater that you have?



02778712

join:2013-07-08
MA

1 edit
reply to Moorecards

said by Moorecards:

How is the eHeat heater working out ?

It's too small for the room. I need a second one or some other supplemental heat source to get it warmer then 64-65.

On Tuesday for the flooring install I popped a quartz heater up there on high. The room was 81! I had to turn it down to half power and the room stayed at 74.
»www.amazon.com/Dr-Infrared-Heate···2QZ11J6/


Moorecards

join:2001-10-19
Martinsburg, WV
reply to Draiman

How is the eHeat heater working out ?



02778712

join:2013-07-08
MA
reply to Draiman

Click for full size
Here's the hallway with flooring!


02778712

join:2013-07-08
MA
reply to Draiman

I selected Bona FloorPoly HD to finish the risers and treads with. I also picked up a 100% nylon 3" brush, some tack cloth, 220 aluminum oxide sandpaper, and some 0000 steel wool. That should be everything I need to get a nice finish. I have a large container of finishing wax as well I can use with the 0000 steel wool on the final coat if it needs it.



02778712

join:2013-07-08
MA
reply to natedj

said by natedj:

When is the exterior going to be painted?

Just going to wait a few years and do the whole house at the same time.


natedj
Elected
Premium
join:2001-06-06
Columbia, SC
reply to Draiman

When is the exterior going to be painted?



02778712

join:2013-07-08
MA
reply to Draiman

All that's left is the flooring, oak finish, baseboards, and trim I think. A little electrical in the attic and the guard routing as well. The project is on the home stretch.


medbuyer

join:2003-11-20
kudos:4
reply to 02778712

said by 02778712:

said by medbuyer:

do you have the pics hosted somewhere else?

I'm actually using this thread of yours as a gauge / guide when I do my own un-finished room into my man cave.

I don't but I could set something up or zip them into a single file if you want.

if you keep adding pics, might be better to set something up like picasa, flickr, smugmug etc...that can show big res. pics...