Satellite > WildBlue Satellite > [general] Dish mounting option -- which is best?

[general] Dish mounting option -- which is best?

I personally don't want any holes in my house. Anywhere. In my mind, polemounts are best. Given that you had a problem with sway suggests that it was not the specified Sch40 steel OR it was up higher than six feet. Thinwall pipe like that used in chain link fencing is unsuitable. My polemount has been in place for years, didn't even sway in 75 mph winds when we were once brushed by the edge of a hurricane. Plus, you're in snow country. It's a lot easier to clean a dish that's only 6' off the ground.

This time buy a 2" Sch40 galvanized steel pipe that's 8' long. Given the thickness of the steel walls, the outside diameter will be the necessary 2.375". Dig a 36" hole. Put a rigid cross bar about a foot from the bottom of the pole. Pour in at least two bags of QuikRete, making sure the cross bar is well covered. Backfill with dirt. You'll have 5 feet of pole sticking out of the ground, which puts the top of your dish at or over 6'.

Understand however, that a polemount is not part of a standard installation. DIY, or be prepared for additional installation charges. If you install an approved pole that is plumb and level, and have approved cable and ground wire already trenched in and ready to connect, the installer will be your friend for life.

//greg//
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HN7000S - 98cm Prodelin/2w "pure" Osiris - ProPlus - G16/1001H - NOC:GTN - NAT 67.142.115.130 - Gateway 66.82.25.10 - DNS 66.82.4.12 and 66.82.4.8 - Firefox 15/MSIE9 - AV/Firewalled by NIS2012

reply to Derfdog
Just to clarify, if I put a pole in (and do it right) I will not get charged extra? Also the max line that they will put in is 125 ft, correct?
Do I need to contact Excede and inform them that I put a pole and to make sure the installer has the components to mount to a pole?
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Centurylink DSL (1.5 download), Centerburg OH
Lat 40.33, Long -82.60

reply to Derfdog
Thanks for the info. Guess I better start digging, with all the dry weather we've had that ground is going to be hard as a rock.

Next couple of questions I might need to address to an electrician.

What about the ground rod, where do I need to have that located by the pole or over by the house? Just curious but why can't I use the pole as the grounding source?

I have an underground power line running from the electric pole to my house (2.5 - 3 feet down). I plan to run the trench for the flexable conduit at a 90 degree angle to the power line. The conduit will be about 6-9 inches below ground.
Do I need to add any additional insulation to the conduit so I do not get any electrical/radio interference from the power line?
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Centurylink DSL (1.5 download), Centerburg OH
Lat 40.33, Long -82.60

reply to Derfdog
sir, you do not have enough knowledge to do what your trying to do correctly.

if you place it in a bad location, all you did was shoot yourself in the foot......

just supply the pole and give the kid $20. and be done.

sounds like your trying so hard to get by without spending extra.... your going to make a mistake, and have to spend extra any way.

not trying to be mean, but you do not understand the rules we have.... grounding locations etc.....

just pay the kid

reply to Derfdog
Sounds like you're wading into unknown waters. I'm thinking the recommendation to simply pay the non-standard installation price is a good one. The pole is not deep enough to be considered a valid ground. Even if it was, electrical code requires that it be bonded to the structure common ground. That bond alone is what makes a ground rod redundant.

That said, there are a small number of circumstances where a ground rod may be specified. But they're the exception, rather than the rule. The vast majority are grounded directly to the structure common ground, typically at the electrical utility service entrance.

Conduit is nice, but not necessary if you use flooded cable. But yes. If you use metallic conduit, electrical code requires it be grounded. Obviously, you can't ground PVC conduit.

The underground power line is another reason that you should let a trained individual tackle this little project.

//greg//
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HN7000S - 98cm Prodelin/2w "pure" Osiris - ProPlus - G16/1001H - NOC:GTN - NAT 67.142.115.130 - Gateway 66.82.25.10 - DNS 66.82.4.12 and 66.82.4.8 - Firefox 15/MSIE9 - AV/Firewalled by NIS2012

I'd have to concur and recommend to pay the installer the extra for what you want. Two things though, hopefully it's not a 'kid' that comes and does your install, hopefully it's a professional experienced technician, and expect to pay him a bit more than $20. If you get a 'kid' who only expects $20 you'll probably get what you pay for.

reply to Kaosfury

reply to Derfdog

reply to Derfdog
Its not that I don't know how. It's just easier to ask questions first at least for me it is.
Hey if I had the foresight to have left my HughesNet pole in place (that put in) and just plopped a bird house on top I would not be out side digging a new hole and buying a new pole.
Hind sight is always 20/20.
Besides, I need the exercise.

Thanks for the input, and keep it comin!

And what ever you do don't call me sir, makes me feel too old.

Fred
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Centurylink DSL (1.5 download), Centerburg OH
Lat 40.33, Long -82.60

reply to Derfdog
Derfdog, I would bury the conduit 12 inches underground. Use EPVC so you do not have to bother with grounding it.

You probably do not need a grounding rod. The installer will use a grounding block that attaches to the coaxial cable and a wire that attaches to your house ground. At about 2m 35s the following video shows a grounding block attached to the wall near the electrical service entrance:

reply to Derfdog