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chucky5150
Divers do it Deeper

join:2001-11-03
New Iberia, LA

[Help] Remove upper control arm - bolts weled

Click for full size
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Welded bolt head
hey guys need some advice here.

1967 El Camino

How is the best way to go about removing the upper control arm? All four bolts (2 on each side) are welded in place. I really don't want to remove the headers to get the control arm off. Those were a real pain in the butt to get in place. I looked around and I know that I am able to buy replacement bolts.

Thank you.
--
Member of the US Air Force since May 7th, 2002 To March 29th, 2005

"You sneak up behind yourself and remove your pants before you realize what's going on." KOL


Doctor Olds
I Need A Remedy For What's Ailing Me.
Premium,VIP
join:2001-04-19
1970 442 W30
kudos:18

Use a air chisel (or if you don't have one a hand chisel or a cutoff tool) to cut/remove the tack weld and then the bolt will come out.



mattmag
Premium,ExMod 2000-03
join:2000-04-09
NW Illinois
kudos:3
reply to chucky5150



If it were me, I would remove the headers and the fender splash panel and do it the right way. I have never cut the bolts out to remove an upper a-arm on any GM vehicle like that, unless the bolts were in irreparable condition.

Expand your moderator at work


Doctor Olds
I Need A Remedy For What's Ailing Me.
Premium,VIP
join:2001-04-19
1970 442 W30
kudos:18
reply to mattmag

Re: [Help] Remove upper control arm - bolts weled

The OEM bolts are knurled at the shaft just below the head and not welded at the factory but are pressed in. This is something modified after the vehicle was worked on.

GM Part nos.

FRONT SUSPENSION
GM 10262655 - Bolt, upper arm to frame (4 per car) - knurled to press into frame and prevent rotation

GM 9442939 - Nut, upper arm to frame bolt (4 per car) - prevailing torque (self-locking) - replace after 2 or more uses/alignments
GM 9442939

»www.streetperformance.com/m/cats···amk.html

quote:
G-5138 from AMK
Part Number G-5138 FROM AMK
Brand: AMK
Auto Part #: G-5138
Technically Correct (4) Hex Head Knurled Bolts (4) Correct Locking Nuts One Set Required Per Car These bolts do a really important job and are well worth the money. They mount the front upper A-arms to the subframe.
»www.hotrodders.com/forum/remove-···127.html
--
What’s the point of owning a supercar if you can’t scare yourself stupid from time to time?


typenamehere

@opera-mini.net

said by Doctor Olds:

The OEM bolts are knurled at the shaft just below the head and not welded at the factory but are pressed in. This is something modified after the vehicle was worked on.

GM Part nos.

FRONT SUSPENSION
GM 10262655 - Bolt, upper arm to frame (4 per car) - knurled to press into frame and prevent rotation

GM 9442939 - Nut, upper arm to frame bolt (4 per car) - prevailing torque (self-locking) - replace after 2 or more uses/alignments
GM 9442939

»www.streetperformance.com/m/cats···amk.html

quote:
G-5138 from AMK
Part Number G-5138 FROM AMK
Brand: AMK
Auto Part #: G-5138
Technically Correct (4) Hex Head Knurled Bolts (4) Correct Locking Nuts One Set Required Per Car These bolts do a really important job and are well worth the money. They mount the front upper A-arms to the subframe.
»www.hotrodders.com/forum/remove-···127.html

said by Doctor Olds:

The OEM bolts are knurled at the shaft just below the head and not welded at the factory but are pressed in. This is something modified after the vehicle was worked on.

GM Part nos.

FRONT SUSPENSION
GM 10262655 - Bolt, upper arm to frame (4 per car) - knurled to press into frame and prevent rotation

GM 9442939 - Nut, upper arm to frame bolt (4 per car) - prevailing torque (self-locking) - replace after 2 or more uses/alignments
GM 9442939

»www.streetperformance.com/m/cats···amk.html

quote:
G-5138 from AMK
Part Number G-5138 FROM AMK
Brand: AMK
Auto Part #: G-5138
Technically Correct (4) Hex Head Knurled Bolts (4) Correct Locking Nuts One Set Required Per Car These bolts do a really important job and are well worth the money. They mount the front upper A-arms to the subframe.
»www.hotrodders.com/forum/remove-···127.html

everyone knows the bolts are knurled, that isn't the problem.
the knurling no longer kept the bolt from spinning so someone previously did the only fix possible.....welded them in.
I doubt there is anything you can get into there to grind off the weld (into that little recess) ....maybe a dremel with a small stone. it will be easier and quicker to move the engine by undoing the mounts.


Doctor Olds
I Need A Remedy For What's Ailing Me.
Premium,VIP
join:2001-04-19
1970 442 W30
kudos:18

said by typenamehere :

everyone knows the bolts are knurled, that isn't the problem.
the knurling no longer kept the bolt from spinning so someone previously did the only fix possible.....welded them in.

Nope, not the only fix possible, a hack fix IMPO, it should be fixed by a welder that can add material to the frame ear holes (that is if they are enlarged or elongated) and then re-drill the holes back to OE size so that the new knurled hardware will properly install again with a press fit. That is how the last two A-Bodies I saw restored at a local shop handled this issue.
--
What’s the point of owning a supercar if you can’t scare yourself stupid from time to time?
Expand your moderator at work


chucky5150
Divers do it Deeper

join:2001-11-03
New Iberia, LA
reply to chucky5150

Re: [Help] Remove upper control arm - bolts weled

So if the bolts off and the holes do end up being enlarged what do I do then?

I don't have a welder and for some reason I am thinking that JB Weld will be a bad idea

At this rate i feel like I migth as well just put the nuts back on and deal with this can of worms at a later date. My goal started off just converting drum to disk brakes and changing out some rubber / ball joints while I was at it. I'll just take the ball joints off with the control arm in place.

Thank you.
--
Member of the US Air Force since May 7th, 2002 To March 29th, 2005

"You sneak up behind yourself and remove your pants before you realize what's going on." KOL



mattmag
Premium,ExMod 2000-03
join:2000-04-09
NW Illinois
kudos:3



It would have been helpful to mention that your goal was to replace the ball joints. That is definitely not a bad job with the a-arm in place, so you should do fine.



typenamehere

@opera-mini.net

look at the bushing in the first pic...ball joints won't fix that.
remove 2 motor mount bolts, shove engine to the side, remove arm, fix issues.



Doctor Olds
I Need A Remedy For What's Ailing Me.
Premium,VIP
join:2001-04-19
1970 442 W30
kudos:18
reply to chucky5150

said by chucky5150:

So if the bolts off and the holes do end up being enlarged what do I do then?

Either tow it disassembled to a welder's shop then after they fix the bolt holes have it towed back for you to finish the work OR call a welder to come out to you and do the work at your location. They have welders on the back of their service trucks with real long cables.

said by chucky5150:

I don't have a welder and for some reason I am thinking that JB Weld will be a bad idea

Correct about JB Weld, while good for many other repairs, would not be applicable for this type of repair if the holes no longer hold the knurled portion of the stud. Adding back metal by welding is a proper and likely permanent repair that allows the studs to still be replaced in the future if ever damaged, unlike bolts that have been welded in place to the frame ears to stop them from turning during alignments.

HTH
--
What’s the point of owning a supercar if you can’t scare yourself stupid from time to time?