Topic 'Re: Portable Generator question' in forum 'Home Improvement' - dslreports.com

Re: Portable Generator question

Mon, 22 Oct 2012 13:00:27 EDT

Mr Matt posted : Check out page 9 of this online catalog:

»flipflashpages.uniflip.com/2/346···041/pub/

They show various temporary power distribution centers.

Re: Portable Generator question

Mon, 22 Oct 2012 11:58:39 EDT

fcisler posted : »www.interlockkit.com/

Just put in a 50A kit for a 12,500 watt generator. I like these much better than the transfer panels. I just marked off which breakers to flip off (in his case: the stove. It ran EVERYTHING else) and be done with it.

Re: Portable Generator question

Sat, 20 Oct 2012 19:06:52 EDT

leibold posted :

said by diroms:

I'm using a reliance controls transfer switch installed according to the manual.

With all switches in the normal (utility power) position there is no connection from the generator to either utility power or the attached load even if you did get red and black wrong when installing the transfer switch. With red and black reversed, putting the switch into the generator position will connect the generator to the utility power grid instead of the intended load.

Is this one of the models with the integrated cable inlet or a hardwire model ?

With those models that have the cable inlet there isn't any generator side wiring that you would have to do yourself and eliminates the possibility of a wiring mistake. That would point to either a defect L14-30 cable or a defect transfer switch.

If you have a multimeter check the cable by putting it into the lowest Ohm setting (a beeping/blinking continuity tester works as well) and test with the cable disconnected from home and generator.

There should be 0 Ohm resistance or continuity between:
Plug Ground (top) to Receptacle Ground (top)
Plug Neutral (bottom) to Receptacle Neutral (bottom)
Plug Hot (left) to Receptacle Hot (right)
Plug Hot (right) to Receptacle Hot (left)

There should be no continuity (infinite resistance) between:
Plug Ground (top) and Plug Neutral (bottom)
Plug Ground (top) and Plug Hot (left)
Plug Ground (top) and Plug Hot (right)
Plug Neutral (bottom) and Plug Hot (left)
Plug Neutral (bottom) and Plug Hot (right)
Plug Hot (left) and Plug Hot (right)
You could do this test on the Receptacle end as well but the result would be the same and it is easier to ensure good contact on the plug end of the cable.
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Re: Portable Generator question

Sat, 20 Oct 2012 16:55:22 EDT

diroms posted : using a voltage tester, with the cable still connected to the house outlet, i removed the cable from generator and verified that there is no power on any of the pins on the cable end.

Re: Portable Generator question

Sat, 20 Oct 2012 16:29:11 EDT

diroms posted : Great reply. I can't believe that I'd be backfeeding utility power to the gen. I'm using a reliance controls transfer switch installed according to the manual. with the switch set to line, there should be no power going through to the power inlet. i will check and see.

Re: Portable Generator question

Sat, 20 Oct 2012 15:40:34 EDT

leibold posted : Under no circumstance should a regular breaker drip because of a missing or present neutral-ground bond. A regular breaker monitors the current through the hot leg(s). It couldn't care less about what you are doing with ground and neutral wiring (with the caveat that a working return path has to exist for a current to flow).

It is different for GFCI or AFCI/GFCI combo breakers where an incorrect bond between neutral and ground would correctly indicate a ground fault condition and trip it, however that doesn't apply here.

If your regular breaker on the generator is tripping then you have either a severe overload condition (Even a 300% overload would take about 10 seconds for a thermal trip of the breaker. It would take almost 10 times the rated current for an immediate trip.) or a short circuit.

The first thing to check whether you are trying to backfeed utility power into the generator (which is an extremely dangerous situation). Disconnect the cable from the generator and carefully (without touching the pins yourself) measure whether there is any voltage on any of the pins. Regardless of the setting of your transfer switch or home breakers if using a lockout kit (try all combinations) there should never be any voltage between any pins on the cable going to the generator. If you detect voltage on the cable stop immediately and do not connect the generator (or anything else) to that cable until your home wiring has been fixed.

The next thing to check would be whether the connecting cable is wired properly. Especially with twist-lock connectors it is not unusual to see the wires connected in the wrong order because someone was looking at a picture of the plug instead of the markings on the plug itself (which are often hard to see). However with the L14-30 it really takes effort to mess it up: the ground wire is on the flagged pin (right angle bend, marked G) and the neutral wire is the opposite narrow pin (marked N) and the remaining two wide pins (marked X/Y or L1/L2) are the two hots (as long as they are not being connected together it doesn't matter which hot goes on which pin.

If the cable appears to be wired correctly on the connectors it may be defect (internal short circuit). With the cable disconnected from both generator and your home measure whether there is continuity between any two pins on one end of the cable (there should be none).
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Re: Portable Generator question

Sat, 20 Oct 2012 13:58:06 EDT

diroms posted : thanks for your help. do i need to remove the wire entirely? i attempted to remove only the neutral side and the breaker on the generator still flipped as soon as it was turned on with cable connected to house.

Re: Portable Generator question

Sat, 20 Oct 2012 13:08:57 EDT

leibold posted : Based on the published documentation that short wire is the neutral-ground bond. I have a different generator at home (generac) and therefore can only go by the manual.

said by diroms:

if i remove this short jumper, is this breaking the bond?

Yes. You can make sure that it is the correct wire by measuring the continuity between ground and neutral before and after disconnecting that bonding wire.
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Re: Portable Generator question

Sat, 20 Oct 2012 08:12:29 EDT

diroms posted : Do you have a more detailed description of where the neutral-ground bond is on this generator? I'm running into the same issue. I do see a short wire going from the ground screw to the middle screw of the outside outlet. if i remove this short jumper, is this breaking the bond? thank you!

Re: Portable Generator question

Wed, 05 Sep 2012 17:22:23 EDT

PSWired posted : Other than the EMT setscrew connector used on NM cable at the transfer switch inlet, looks like he did a good job. The greenfield between the switch and the panel could stand to be supported too.

Re: Portable Generator question

Wed, 05 Sep 2012 16:39:41 EDT

IowaCowboy posted : Not that I would let my kid attempt to do this (if I had kids) but just saw a YouTube video of a 14 year old teenager installing a transfer switch.

Not sure if his parents own or rent the joint but I'd love to see the look on the building inspector's face with it being installed by a 14 year old non-electrician.

»m.youtube.com/watch?v=7FfsPeY68PU
--
I wish I still lived in Iowa; Everything there from rent and groceries to Cable TV is much cheaper in Iowa (especially with an overbuilder in town).

Re: Portable Generator question

Tue, 04 Sep 2012 11:24:37 EDT

IowaCowboy posted : The generlink is out of the equation as I got the following e-mail from generlink.

Thank you for your interest in the GenerLink transfer switch. We have been
in contact with Western Massachusetts Electric but unfortunately they do not
allow any consumer owned products to be installed behind their meter. Please
let me know if there is anything else I can help you with.

So this is the only option for a transfer switch left and this is what I may install. I can run the input in an existing hole leftover from when I had DirecTV (which has since had its wires cut). I read the instructions and it is not difficult to install.
»www.homedepot.com/webapp/wcs/sto···biYl5mc0
--
I wish I still lived in Iowa; Everything there from rent and groceries to Cable TV is much cheaper in Iowa (especially with an overbuilder in town).

Re: Portable Generator question

Tue, 04 Sep 2012 09:04:18 EDT

itguy05 posted :

said by IowaCowboy:

said by itguy05:

What happens if the transfer switch is defective and burns the place down? Since it was not installed by an electrician, that's all on you (and yes you would get nailed for it).

In that scenario, if the transfer switch was defective, then it would be the manufacturer that would be liable.

I'm not trying to be a d!ck but seriously think long and hard about this. If something were to happen, in theory the manufacturer may be liable (need to read the warranty very carefully) getting them to pony up may be a challenge. As well as since you don't own the place you'll have the landlord, their insurance, your insurance, any other tennant's insurance, etc all breathing down YOUR back.

And you can bet it will happen as everyone will be trying to deflect the blame and the easiest person would be the one that installed it - ie: you.

If you owned the place, that's one thing but since you don't own it, I'd steer clear or let a pro do the work. That way if something were to happen you can simply deflect the blame to them.

I've done tons of electrical work at our old house including wiring up the workshop area. But I'd not tackle a transfer panel.

Re: Portable Generator question

Mon, 03 Sep 2012 11:24:00 EDT

IowaCowboy posted :

said by itguy05:

What happens if the transfer switch is defective and burns the place down? Since it was not installed by an electrician, that's all on you (and yes you would get nailed for it).

In that scenario, if the transfer switch was defective, then it would be the manufacturer that would be liable.

pike said that the wiring (done by a so-called professional electrician) in the panel was poorly done (such as using white wires as hots without marking them). They are 240 volt circuits because I recognize the breakers going to the electric baseboards as I turn them off in the spring and turn them back on in the late fall. I am wondering if the electrician used the incorrect wire to wire the heaters.

I have heard of 14/2 being used on three-way circuits instead of 14/3 and they use the bare copper as a traveler. There was an incident a few years back where a kid got fried because the the babysitter built a new garage and the electrician used 14/2 instead of 14/3 to wire a three way switch. The cost difference: less than $10 and a kid got fried because the electrician cut corners to save a few dollars.

I will agree that there are plenty of good electricians out there but like any profession, there are a few bad apples out there. Even physicians get in trouble for various reasons. It just seems with the rental properties I have come across that the landlord/developer hires the cheapest guy to come and wire the building (with instructions to keep it as cheap as possible). The electrician who wired the place has his name on a sticker in the panel but considering that this place was built in 1988 (nearly 25 years ago), he is probably most likely retired.

Another electrical project I have done (about a year ago and it did not burn the house down or electrocute anyone) was installing a vacancy sensor on the kitchen light, and my electric bill has gone down slightly as a result. With the high electric rates here, any device that can save power is worth the investment.

That loose piece of romex next to the panel was powering the timer for the now defunct lawn irrigation system (that was not in use when we moved in back in 2002) was powering the irrigation timer in a locked box on the outside and it was hooked into our power (which is illegal as it is powering landlord equipment on the tenant's meter).

--
I wish I still lived in Iowa; Everything there from rent and groceries to Cable TV is much cheaper in Iowa (especially with an overbuilder in town).

Re: Portable Generator question

Mon, 03 Sep 2012 11:15:07 EDT

fifty nine posted : Wiring in a transfer switch does not have to involve a panel replacement. For a small selected circuit panel all you are touching are branch circuits.

Re: Portable Generator question

Mon, 03 Sep 2012 10:48:53 EDT

itguy05 posted : I would think long and hard about this as it sounds like you have just enough knowledge to be dangerous (and that statement includes me).

No electician would work on a live wire for a panel replacement. When we had ours done last October the POCO pulled the meter and then it had to be inspected and proof of that before they would even think about putting the meter back in. And it took almost all day as service reconnects are low priority for them.

Since this is a rental and you are not an electrician I'd never do any work on the systems. What happens if the transfer switch is defective and burns the place down? Since it was not installed by an electrician, that's all on you (and yes you would get nailed for it). Say something happens and it backfeeds? Again all on you.

I'd never touch it in a rental at all. Just use extension cords and be done with it. Or buy the place and then you can do all you want and not have to worry about it.

Re: Portable Generator question

Mon, 03 Sep 2012 10:35:22 EDT

fifty nine posted : I believe they still need to be identified as hots though by taping them.

Re: Portable Generator question

Mon, 03 Sep 2012 08:57:28 EDT

IowaCowboy posted : The white wires are hooked into double pole breakers.

Re: Portable Generator question

Mon, 03 Sep 2012 07:24:52 EDT

pike posted : Aluminum service entrance cable is normal, nothing to worry about there.

There are some other issues that need addressing while you're in there, however.. the first one that jumps out at me is the white wires being used as hots (can't tell from the picture if they're double pole breakers). Additionally, the ground/neutral bus bar is a mess (I'm having a hard time even finding where the utility neutral is connected to it). Finally there's several instances of multiple conductors being terminated on the same screw.

I'm by no means an expert on residential work, so I'll defer to those that are to guide you through correcting this stuff.

Re: Portable Generator question

Sun, 02 Sep 2012 22:17:30 EDT

fifty nine posted : You don't need a meter pull. You need to shut off the main.

The usual disclaimers apply, this is dangerous, better for a licensed electrician to do, yada yada.

Re: Portable Generator question

Sun, 02 Sep 2012 21:28:32 EDT

IowaCowboy posted : I pulled the cover off of the main panel today just to take a peek at the complexity of installing a transfer switch. Does not appear to be that complicated although I hope those two thick wires connected to the main breaker are insulated adequately (I am going to avoid those two screw terminals on the main breaker like the plague).. The neutral and ground are on the same bus (located in the upper right quadrant of the panel). If need be, I can have the poco pull the meter for an hour or two. The house was built in 1988. I don't like the sight of the aluminum wire but I think those are higher voltage cables.

I plan on wiring both 20 amp kitchen circuits (one has microwave and the other has the fridge) and the three lighting circuits and the GFCI circuit to the switch. The lighting circuits handle the plug-ins in the house. I need backup power because I have a medical condition that could be life-threatening in a power outage (I have to sleep on a ventilator at night due to life threatening sleep apnea). I cannot hire an electrician because I cannot afford one. The generator was bought by a relative last October during the snowstorm. It was a lucky grab as they were in short supply.

I cannot wire the heat to the transfer switch as the house has electric heat and the generator does not have the wattage to handle such a load. The generator is a 5500 watt unit. The water heater is electric as well. We have city water.
--
I wish I still lived in Iowa; Everything there from rent and groceries to Cable TV is much cheaper in Iowa (especially with an overbuilder in town).

Re: Portable Generator question

Sun, 02 Sep 2012 20:29:22 EDT

IowaCowboy posted :

said by pike:

said by IowaCowboy:

As for the landlord, the keyword is absentee. When something breaks, I am the one who ends up fixing it (whether it be a plumbing or electrical fixture). But she has no problem collecting the rent each month. If it was not for my vast knowledge of home improvement/repair, this place would fall to the ground.

Do you have an agreement with your landlord to bill her or offset the monthly rent in exchange for these improvements/repairs? I'm curious about this process when the tenant does the repairs themselves, without a receipt or bill from a "professional" to document the expenses.

We're on a verbal month to month agreement and we pay the rent on time each month. We do get a discount for lawn care/snow and ice removal. Other than that we don't hear from her, she never stop by, or inspects the house. We did hear from her husband a couple of weeks ago about a high water bill. Our less than wholesome neighbors (who I know are stealing cable TV, have out of control children, and his wife works while he does nothing, and they deserve to have their kids taken by CPS) have a kiddie pool that they kept draining and refilling. I think the landlord is starting to view them as problem tenants and he mentioned that they are trying to work out an issue with the landlord (I suspect they are behind on rent yet they have a late model SUV).

The landlord is not the best in screening tenants, the last tenants were rude and snotty but they minded their own business but did have loud parties at 2AM but did not have bad children (that would be better off in the foster care system) or keep asking to borrow my tools and other stuff that I PAID FOR WITH MY OWN MONEY!!! I have thought of buying a stepladder but it would end up in his garage. He and his kids have already ruined our picnic table.

If they were my tenants, I would serve them the 30-day notice to vacate the premises, or in better words; I would evict them before one of their reckless children ends up torching the joint. I would also keep their security deposit over the wasteful water usage (filling a kiddie pool without landlord permission as the landlord in Mass have to pay water) not to mention the damage their kids are doing.

Other than that, I mail my rent check on or close to the third of each month, which is when I get paid. She is pretty quick to cash the check. I take good care of our unit.
--
I wish I still lived in Iowa; Everything there from rent and groceries to Cable TV is much cheaper in Iowa (especially with an overbuilder in town).

Re: Portable Generator question

Sun, 02 Sep 2012 19:15:23 EDT

pike posted :

said by IowaCowboy:

Re: Portable Generator question

Sun, 02 Sep 2012 18:20:01 EDT

IowaCowboy posted : I've done electrical work on this building before and the licensed electrician that wired this building did not follow codes. I always follow code when doing wiring and I have corrected sloppy work that the electrician did.

One of the things that he did that was a no-no is putting two wires on a screw terminal and putting more than one device on a single wire (stripping the wire in the middle and wrapping it around the screw terminal). The code enforcement in this city is very lax and I am surprised that they signed off when this building was built. Other projects I have done are lighting upgrades in the basement (went from standard lightbulb sockets to 4 ft T12 fluorescent lights that are hardwired). There must be something very wrong with the certification of electricians here when a non-electrician tenant follows codes more than a licensed electrician. The former landlord (before the building was sold) also did electrical work as well.

The enforcement of building codes in this jurisdiction is spotty at best. They cannot even keep up with buildings that are infested with rats/mice/roaches and buildings that are structurally unsound. The local building department is running on a skeleton crew because of severe budget cuts.

I do not want to turn this into a political discussion (as this is not the appropriate forum) but liability judgements can be rendered null and void in a bankruptcy filing if the defendant is unable/does not have the assets or resources to pay.

As for the work I've done myself, it was done correctly and in a workman like manner.

The transfer switch I may install has an instructional DVD and I have familliarized myself with the instructions. I should get some credit for my desire to install a generator correctly. Many times, tenants and homeowners alike will use what is called a so-called "suicide cord" (a cord with a male plug on each end) and they will plug one end of the cord into the generator and the other into an exterior or garage wall socket and backfeed it into the house wiring without isolating the house from the grid. This is very dangerous to the occupants of the building, can damage the generator, can burn the house down, and injure/kill utility workers when the current backfeed a through a transformer and becomes lethal current. I have read many horror stories about improperly installed generators. Not to mention the electrocution hazard to the occupants of the building. This is why the only way to install a generator is with a transfer switch.

I would also consider replacing some of the breakers with AFCI breakers but I think breakers for this panel may no longer be available. If the panel goes bad, I would be out of luck because replacing a panel is a little outside my comfort zone as I would have to handle the live incoming wires. If I go forward with the transfer switch install, I would turn off the main breaker and use a work light that I would plug into the generator (via an extension cord of course). Another mistake people make is running generators indoors. During the October snowstorm last year, a family was almost killed when they were dumb enough to run a generator in the basement. One thing I see electricians do that does not play well in my book is handling live wires. I ALWAYS cut power before working on wiring.

As for the landlord, the keyword is absentee. When something breaks, I am the one who ends up fixing it (whether it be a plumbing or electrical fixture). But she has no problem collecting the rent each month. If it was not for my vast knowledge of home improvement/repair, this place would fall to the ground.
--
I wish I still lived in Iowa; Everything there from rent and groceries to Cable TV is much cheaper in Iowa (especially with an overbuilder in town).

Re: Portable Generator question

Sun, 02 Sep 2012 17:20:16 EDT

leibold posted :

said by fifty nine:

They want floating neutral and no GFCI. If your genny has that or can be converted you're good to go.

The wiring schematic for the generator shows no GFCI but it does show a Neutral-Ground bond. The schematic is detailed enough to show that the bond is at DP2 (the second of the dual 120V 20A outlets) with a wire from the ground screw (marked as terminal 5) of the outlet to neutral (marked as terminal 4).
Wire number 0 in the schematic is ground. Wire number 22 (and 33) is neutral.
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Re: Portable Generator question

Sun, 02 Sep 2012 17:00:39 EDT

fifty nine posted :

said by Zach 58:

In this case, the OP is a tenant. So without the landlord's blessing, he can't (legally) do anything to the electrical system. Even with the go-ahead from the LL, he can't legally (in most jurisdictions) do the work unless he's licensed and pulls the proper permits. In most places the owner can legally do his/her own work provided the premises are owner-occupied. I know people do what the want but when things go wrong, one can find themselves referred to as "the defendant" with out any help from the insurance company(ies). I get several calls a year from people get who get busted doing unlicensed work and are willing to pay to "use my license" to pull permits and stand-by for inspections. Uh, not only NO but HELL NO!

That's why generlink is perfect. It's utility equipment like th meter. In most places no permit is required.

Re: Portable Generator question

Sun, 02 Sep 2012 16:59:02 EDT

fifty nine posted :

said by Mr Matt:

I would strongly recommend locating the model number of your generator on the following GenerLink pdf document to see if it is compatible with the GenerLink or other transfer switches that do not switch the neutral.

»www.generlink.com/CompatibleGenerator.pdf

If your generator is a Model # 030430 the Generlink compatibility list shows it is compatible with their product.

They want floating neutral and no GFCI. If your genny has that or can be converted you're good to go.

Re: Portable Generator question

Sun, 02 Sep 2012 14:25:21 EDT

SwedishRider posted :

said by Zach 58:

You are right. Wasn't thinking about the tenant/landlord angle, but you are correct as pro is required in that case. I think permits are still required even if pro is doing the work as far as I know..

Re: Portable Generator question

Sun, 02 Sep 2012 14:00:44 EDT

Zach 58 posted : In this case, the OP is a tenant. So without the landlord's blessing, he can't (legally) do anything to the electrical system. Even with the go-ahead from the LL, he can't legally (in most jurisdictions) do the work unless he's licensed and pulls the proper permits. In most places the owner can legally do his/her own work provided the premises are owner-occupied. I know people do what the want but when things go wrong, one can find themselves referred to as "the defendant" with out any help from the insurance company(ies). I get several calls a year from people get who get busted doing unlicensed work and are willing to pay to "use my license" to pull permits and stand-by for inspections. Uh, not only NO but HELL NO!
--
Zach

Re: Portable Generator question

Sun, 02 Sep 2012 13:31:30 EDT

SwedishRider posted :

said by Grumpy:

Just a thought - install by other than a licensed pro could void renter's insurance coverage.

If by some chance your install was at fault for a claim, your personal assets liability is the excess of your coverage limits. In other words, if sued successfully for $250,000 and your coverage is $100,000 - you are on the hook for the difference, ie $150, 000 as supplied by your personal assets, in addition to your legal fees to defend yourself once your insurance carrier steps aside for the excess portion of your trial.

See also, »en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Subrogation

Just sayin...

I don't think the licensed pro has anything to do with it. One can do their own work and the insurance will cover it IF a proper building inspection permit is pulled, work is inspected, and approval is granted.

Getting a pro to do the work and not having it inspected is equally problematic. In the end, it's the homeowner's responsibility to make sure all proper permits are in place (at least it's that way in Connecticut). Failure to do so can create insurance payment problems in the event of a claim.

Re: Portable Generator question

Sun, 02 Sep 2012 13:14:27 EDT

Grumpy posted : Just a thought - install by other than a licensed pro could void renter's insurance coverage.

If by some chance your install was at fault for a claim, your personal assets liability is the excess of your coverage limits. In other words, if sued successfully for $250,000 and your coverage is $100,000 - you are on the hook for the difference, ie $150, 000 as supplied by your personal assets, in addition to your legal fees to defend yourself once your insurance carrier steps aside for the excess portion of your trial.

See also, »en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Subrogation

Just sayin...

Re: Portable Generator question

Sun, 02 Sep 2012 09:26:05 EDT

Mr Matt posted : I would strongly recommend locating the model number of your generator on the following GenerLink pdf document to see if it is compatible with the GenerLink or other transfer switches that do not switch the neutral.

»www.generlink.com/CompatibleGenerator.pdf

If your generator is a Model # 030430 the Generlink compatibility list shows it is compatible with their product.

Re: Portable Generator question

Sun, 02 Sep 2012 08:01:45 EDT

IowaCowboy posted : I may also consider installing a transfer switch if they are easy to install and easy to remove (if we ever do move, we've been in this rental unit for ten years and do not see moving in the foreseeable future).

I may just mount it next to the panel and run 10/4 out to an input receptacle through an existing hole in the back of the house. I looked up how to install a transfer switch and it seems easy, I am a little nervous about working in the main panel but I would cut the main breaker when poking around the panel.
--
I wish I still lived in Iowa; Everything there from rent and groceries to Cable TV is much cheaper in Iowa (especially with an overbuilder in town).

Re: Portable Generator question

Sat, 01 Sep 2012 22:55:06 EDT

IowaCowboy posted :

said by fifty nine:

said by IowaCowboy:

This is something else I would consider if the poco is willing to install it.
»www.generlink.com/documents/Gene···ower.pdf

I have one. Easy to use and goof proof. I used it for 4 outages so far including the October snow storm we had last year.

I wonder how I'd get the poco to install one. I don't see it listed on their website but I do see a "Special Metering Request" link on their website. My poco (Western Mass Electric Company/Northeast Utilities) is not the greatest in terms of customer service. I had to get the state DPU involved to get a faulty meter replaced.

I like the Generlink idea, with the house being a rental, they are easy to install and remove (requires poco tech visit as it involves breaking meter seals) and does not require modification of house wiring like a transfer switch.

--
I wish I still lived in Iowa; Everything there from rent and groceries to Cable TV is much cheaper in Iowa (especially with an overbuilder in town).

Re: Portable Generator question

Sat, 01 Sep 2012 22:15:57 EDT

fifty nine posted :

said by IowaCowboy:

This is something else I would consider if the poco is willing to install it.
»www.generlink.com/documents/Gene···ower.pdf

I have one. Easy to use and goof proof. I used it for 4 outages so far including the October snow storm we had last year.

Re: Portable Generator question

Sat, 01 Sep 2012 19:53:25 EDT

Raphion posted : The outlet cover is a neat idea. I use the dog door. :p

Re: Portable Generator question

Sat, 01 Sep 2012 19:43:31 EDT

IowaCowboy posted : This is something else I would consider if the poco is willing to install it.
»www.generlink.com/documents/Gene···ower.pdf

Re: Portable Generator question

Sat, 01 Sep 2012 16:03:26 EDT

49528867 posted : You want to keep this nice and simple, inexpensive and sort of legal?

Now this may or may not be possible but if you can cut a hole into the basement large enough to pass your cord through and cover the hole on the outside with a 50 amp weatherproof outlet cover, say something like this.

»www.hubbellcatalog.com/raco/RACO···herproof

This would allow you to drop a cord into your basement as needed and when not needed it can be locked shut and if and when you move out just leave it there covering the hole.

Wayne
--
Madness takes its toll, please have exact change ready…

Re: Portable Generator question

Sat, 01 Sep 2012 14:26:43 EDT

Mr Matt posted : If you check out the link to BJ's in my previous post in this thread, the generator accessory kit includes a 25 Foot 30 Amp 10/4 cord with an L14 Plug and L14 Socket. It also includes a Y connector with an L14 Plug and two triple 15 Amp 120 Volt outlets wired to each leg of an attached twist lock plug. Unfortunately you missed out on the sale last month when the generator accessory kit was offered for $99.99 which was an even better deal. You can purchase an additional 25 Foot 10/4 Extension Cord for $99.99.

Re: Portable Generator question

Sat, 01 Sep 2012 14:16:49 EDT

leibold posted :

said by shdesigns:

The manual says use a L14-30 plug ;)

Which means that the generator accessory kit posted by Mr Matt is a perfect fit for this generator:

said by Mr Matt:

Check out this accessory set for your generator.
»www.bjs.com/dek-universal-genera···=2004464

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Re: Portable Generator question

Sat, 01 Sep 2012 14:02:05 EDT

shdesigns posted : The manual says use a L14-30 plug ;)

Re: Portable Generator question

Sat, 01 Sep 2012 14:01:10 EDT

Oedipus posted : The receptacle and the plug you linked to are probably keyed differently. Even if they're not, there's no reason for the OP to spend $70 on a plug.

Re: Portable Generator question

Sat, 01 Sep 2012 13:55:06 EDT

IowaCowboy posted :

said by leibold:

said by fifty nine:

If you really want, get a 30A (L5) extension cord with 15A pigtails on it.

He doesn't have any L5-30 outlet on the generator. L5 would be 120V only and L6 would be 240V only. His outlet is 120V(hot to neutral)/240V(hot to hot) which is L14 (probably L14-30 but I can't tell current rating just from the picture).

It's a 120/240 30 amp outlet. Here is the specs for the generator »m.briggsandstratton.com/generato···sponder/
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Re: Portable Generator question

Sat, 01 Sep 2012 13:52:46 EDT

Coma posted :

said by leibold:

Are you sure that the generator is using a proprietary (non-NEMA) connector ?

No, I'm not, but it shouldn't make any difference if the pin configuration is the same. Just wire it correctly.

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Re: Portable Generator question

Sat, 01 Sep 2012 13:43:25 EDT

Zach 58 posted :

said by leibold:

said by Coma:

It's a 30A twist lock.

Are you sure that the generator is using a proprietary (non-NEMA) connector ?

The device in the link is intended for use with a 3Ph, 4W system.

»www.hubbellcatalog.com/wiring/da···L3431GCB
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Zach

Re: Portable Generator question

Sat, 01 Sep 2012 13:36:02 EDT

JTY posted : I'd just get a generator cord, that has a twist lock on one end, and multiple outlets on the other. That's what I do with my B&S generator.

Re: Portable Generator question

Sat, 01 Sep 2012 13:29:20 EDT

leibold posted :

said by Coma:

It's a 30A twist lock.

Are you sure that the generator is using a proprietary (non-NEMA) connector ?

Edit: as Zach 58 points out below, this is definitely not the correct plug for the generator. It is a non-standard connector that is not UL-listed and is only sold as direct replacement part (not to be used for new applications). If this were a 3-phase generator (it is not) the connector would be L15 (3-phase delta) or L21 (3-phase wye).
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Re: Portable Generator question

Sat, 01 Sep 2012 13:23:37 EDT

leibold posted :

said by fifty nine:

If you really want, get a 30A (L5) extension cord with 15A pigtails on it.

Re: Portable Generator question

Sat, 01 Sep 2012 12:22:10 EDT

Red Green posted : Keep it simple. They make long cords that will have a plug for the twist lock on one end and 4 120 outlets on the other. That way you only have one cord running into the house and can run your other extension cords from one single point in the house. Being a rental property do you really want to do wiring to something you don't own? Would the landlord approve you doing this wiring?
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Re: Portable Generator question

Sat, 01 Sep 2012 11:40:59 EDT

Coma posted :

said by IowaCowboy:

I want to know the name of that outlet and how to wire it.

It's a 30A twist lock.

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