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John Galt
Forward, March
Premium
join:2004-09-30
Happy Camp
kudos:5

reply to robbin

Re: Plumbing: valve requirement for main shutoff?

said by robbin:

Why would a gauge see sudden changes in pressure installed after the pressure regulator?

Valves slamming shut, etc.

robbin
Premium,MVM
join:2000-09-21
Leander, TX
kudos:1

Why won't the expansion tank even that out?



John Galt
Forward, March
Premium
join:2004-09-30
Happy Camp
kudos:5

It can't respond quick enough.

As usual, it depends on the particular configuration of the plumbing system...

Snubbers are cheap, worth the extra expense.


robbin
Premium,MVM
join:2000-09-21
Leander, TX
kudos:1

I've never had a problem but I will trust your expertise.

OP -- don't forget that you need to install an expansion tank if you installed a pressure regulator.



leibold
Premium,MVM
join:2002-07-09
Sunnyvale, CA
kudos:6
Reviews:
·SONIC.NET

reply to robbin
It all depends what kind of water usage happens on the downstream side of the pressure regulator. Any appliances with electric valves can create water hammer (dish washers, washing machines) due to the instant changes from off to full flow and vice versa. The bigger the flow the more pronounced the sudden change in pressure.
Around here I have seen homes where the sprinkler valves for the yard irrigation are connected to the water line after the pressure regulator. It is not unusual to see a 5/8" water meter and pressure regulator followed by 3/4" or 1" sprinkler valves. Even the best pressure regulator will have difficulties maintaining steady pressure under those conditions.
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boaterbob

join:2005-08-01
Moncks Corner, SC

Plumbing - what a variable. Most city water supplies are around 70psi - not an issue for modern homes. Also important is the flow rate inside the house. I had our county/city water company come out to check my water pressure/flow - they do this for free. The hooked up a hose bibb to their side of my water main - had 70 psi and 15gpm flow. After my builder installed pressure regulator valve they showed I had 68psi but 4gpm flow! They said that was why the person taking a shower yelled when a toilet was flushed somewhere in the house.

Anyway, we have a pretty constant pressure (no great fluctuations) so I cut out the PRV (PEX pipe) and things seem to be better with the flow rate issues (I have not had the water flow tested again by the county).

I called the PRV company and talked about my flow rate issue and they said the problem 'could' be the house builder plumber trying to adjust the PRV w/o having the water turned on - they said you only adjust the PRV with water turned on (don't turn the adjust screw w/o the water on) and maybe that damaged the PRV ??? Beats me! Anyway, I have no PRV and things seem fine.



Jack_in_VA
Premium
join:2007-11-26
Mathews, VA
kudos:1

reply to John Galt

said by John Galt:

When you install the gauge, make sure you install an isolation valve and pressure snubber. Gauges get damaged by very sudden changes in pressure, which is why you see them fail in pool pump applications.

When I replaced my pump iin 1995 I put a new gauge on it. It is still there and works perfectly. I doubt if you can get any worse service than right on a well pump. No isolation valve and no snubber. It's a stainless steel gauge liquid filled. 0 - 100 psi range.


Jack_in_VA
Premium
join:2007-11-26
Mathews, VA
kudos:1

1 edit

reply to robbin

said by robbin:

I've never had a problem but I will trust your expertise.

OP -- don't forget that you need to install an expansion tank if you installed a pressure regulator.

Why would you need an expansion tank if you have a regulator.

I've installed and had my workers install hundreds of pressure regulators just like that one and I've yet to ever install an expansion tank except on my fathers old hot water heat boiler.

However if you have a back flow preventer on your supply line then you need a tank but since you don't have one I assume there is no BFP on your supply.

expansion tank typical installation


Jack_in_VA
Premium
join:2007-11-26
Mathews, VA
kudos:1

reply to robbin

said by robbin:

Why won't the expansion tank even that out?

It would even it out. That's what it's for.


cowboyro

join:2000-10-11
Shelton, CT

reply to cowboyro
The valve has a bypass if low side pressure exceeds high side pressure.



leibold
Premium,MVM
join:2002-07-09
Sunnyvale, CA
kudos:6
Reviews:
·SONIC.NET

said by cowboyro:

The valve has a bypass if low side pressure exceeds high side pressure.

Some pressure regulators don't have that which means that they act just like a backflow preventer. Due to the bypass you don't need an expansion tank.

Just be aware that regardless of the pressure setting on the regulator your inhouse water pressure may rise up (at most to the level of city water pressure) but it will quickly drop to the set pressure level as soon as you open any valve in the house.
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Edrick
I aspire to tell the story of a lifetime
Premium
join:2004-09-11
Woburn, MA

reply to cowboyro
What on earth is the 5 point head on the bolt that holds the curb caulk cover on? We've got little circular covers with a 5 point head you have to remove to get to the actual shutoff.



nunya
Who is John Galt?
Premium,MVM
join:2000-12-23
O Fallon, MO
kudos:8
Reviews:
·Charter
·surpasshosting

It's called a "penta-head", and it's a "curb cock". The penta-head is to keep people out who don't belong in. The come on electrical vaults too. A pair of pliers and patience is all you need.
You can buy a penta-socket as well.
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If someone refers to herself / himself as a "guru", they probably aren't.


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