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treeman
Premium
join:2000-07-15
Mcgaheysville, VA
reply to Bob4

Re: Anyone have a suggestion for standby whole home generator?

If his living space is 936 and the bill was 350, and yours is twice the size 2x936=1872 and your bill is 438, I sure as hell glad I,m not heating like you guys. Our place is 3450sqft, would have to quit eating


pandora
Premium
join:2001-06-01
Outland
kudos:2
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reply to nunya

said by nunya:

You guys might be able to "get away" without the strips in a Southern climate, but in a harsh winter climate it's a different ball game.
I'm not sure where "Outland" is, but the OP says he is in a place where the temperature can get below 20 degrees.

Scott, the heat strips or combustion chamber are always before the a-coil here. I've never ever seen them after. Almost everyone has updraft furnaces in their basement.

Outland is Connecticut. Our current heat pump can push out sufficient heat to keep our home 75F at about 15F outside. It's a 7 year old Ruud SEER 14, not certain of it's heat pump number. The newer units are rated to produce heat down to -10F.

If my experience with the Ruud wasn't so positive, I'd be more concerned about many of the suggestions here. Maybe the newer units are very inferior and will not perform well at all. I can't tell until they are installed and it gets cold. I know from first hand experience that 40F or below and heat pump is a very outdated rule of thumb.

Assuming the rule moves over time, for me it has been between 15 and 20F on the old unit, and may be different on the newer units.
--
"People demand freedom of speech as a compensation for the freedom of thought which they seldom use."

laserfan

join:2005-01-14
Texas
reply to pandora

said by Jack_in_VA:

On all my units I've ever had the defrost cycle brings on at least one heat strip to prevent the inside air to be excessively cooled. I have 15 kw and 5 of it automatically comes on and if the thermostat drops it sequences the other 10 kw on to maintain the inside temperature. The unit will try to maintain the inside temperature regardless if the unit is in a defrost cycle.

How do you know "5 automatically then 10 if it has to"? You must have multistage heating then, huh (though I still wonder how you know "1st stage, 2nd stage" are on? I don't think even if my TH8000 were wired for 2-stage that there's an indication of it, and right now it only says EM HEAT when the strips are on).

said by pandora:

I spoke with the HVAC person this morning. The auxiliary heat strips do not defrost the outside unit. The air handler (the device that blows air inside the house) when in heat pump mode (in heat mode) on auxiliary heat, will not blow air until the internal electric heater reaches a preset temperature. He says usually it's 120F to 140F but it is settable on install...

I'm sure both of you guys know your setups, but I don't think any of this stuff is universally true. At least, I have 1-stage of Em Heat and Jack's is fancier, and I can't find any reference in my fan coil documentation to a sensor that turns on the fan only when the elements are warm. And I swear I've never seen at least an indication of Em Heat in the t-stat when a heat pump is in its defrost cycle.

All these questions though have inspired me to pay closer attention to my exact system operation when the next cold snap occurs in So Central Texas (hopefully not until late Dec or Jan!). Though I hope now to do a generator before that...hmmm.


cowboyro
Premium
join:2000-10-11
Shelton, CT
reply to nunya

said by nunya:

You guys might be able to "get away" without the strips in a Southern climate, but in a harsh winter climate it's a different ball game.
I'm not sure where "Outland" is, but the OP says he is in a place where the temperature can get below 20 degrees.

My heat pumps (Trane) deliver good heat down to 10F. They have a built-in switch to auxiliary below 10F, but the cost of the heat delivered is still lower than producing equivalent heat on oil. The only reason for which a half-decent heat pump doesn't heat (besides being defective) is that it's undersized. Both power consumed and efficiency decrease with temperature, as a result the amount of heat being output is much lower while the heat losses in the house increase.
said by nunya:

Scott, the heat strips or combustion chamber are always before the a-coil here. I've never ever seen them after.

That makes no sense whatsoever. Auxiliary heat sources should be after the coils, not before. You want the final temperature of the "hot side" to be as low as possible, as the heat transfer efficiency decreases when the difference between hot and cold increases...

ncbill
Premium
join:2007-01-23
Winston Salem, NC
Reviews:
·AT&T Southeast
reply to pandora

Ummm...the first generation Geosprings have some pretty terrible reviews as to their performance & reliability.

E.g. poor recovery vs. conventional tank, interminable wait for parts (30+ days).

Note that these type of water heaters offer better performance in a hot climate like mine vs. a cold climate such as yours.

Be sure to buy the extended warranty - looking at online discussions you'll probably need it.

Was it your choice or suggested by your contractor?

said by pandora:

said by ncbill:

I agree with you about the tankless/coil - and am very thankful for my basic, does-not-need-electricity water heater which burns cheap natural gas.

My new electric hot water heater is a Geospring. Not certain how expensive it'll be to keep.


pandora
Premium
join:2001-06-01
Outland
kudos:2
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said by ncbill:

Was it your choice or suggested by your contractor?

I have 10 years warranty from Lowes. My contractor only understands basic devices. The Geospring was his first.

Often when dealing with trades people, I feel like it's 1960. Many do not understand Internet, a number of electricians did not understand my desire for Cat 6 wiring, two suggested everyone uses wireless.

I tend to like new technology, the 2nd generation Geospring seems nice.
--
"People demand freedom of speech as a compensation for the freedom of thought which they seldom use."