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Thadius856

join:2006-06-15
Wheatland, CA
Reviews:
·SONIC.NET

1 recommendation

reply to Thadius856

Re: Splitting Coax (F-Type RG6) 16-Way Preferably Rack-Mounted?

said by tschmidt:

Coax splitters are pretty small. I'm not aware of rack mounted splitter. That is no reason why you could not build your own by mounting them in a rackable chassis.

With that many splits you are going to need additional amplification.

/tom

Guess I'll stick to a 2-way for the modem, then a 4-way for the TVs. Think I might just velcro it all to a 1U shelf.

said by Hank:

Do yourself a favor and just home run all the RG-6 cables back to a box, something like an ONQ box, and just terminated the ones that are currently in use. Leave the other cables disconnected until needed. Then when needed remove the connector for the cable that is no longer be needed and connect the cable for the new location.

Don't know what service you are using for your TV. If DirecTV or Dish they both have switches that support up to 8 ports. A terminating load is placed on the unused cables, when you want to move the TV to that cable just remove the terminator and connect the TV. The terminator that you just removed can then be placed on the connector from where the TV was removed.

As previously pointed out keep the splits to the minimum required.

Just some options.

This closet rack is meant take the place of an OnQ or similar box, at a much lower cost.

Currently have no TV service for the last 7 months (only internet). Probably switching to Comcast in 4 months. Dislike the lag when channel flipping on satellite, but with the same lag now present in digital CATV boxes, I may have to just bite the bullet eventually.

said by THZNDUP:

Since you said rack, you could just drill some holes to mount the splitters on a 2U or 3U blank panel or even on the backside of a wire management panel. Depending on what type of rack screws, tapped rails, etc you could even use those.

Hmmmmm. On a blank panel. Hadn't considered this. Genius! Think I'll try this.

Thanks for all the help guys. I finished pulling 90% of the runs today before the attic reached over 100ºF. Could have finished, but I insist on tight bundles, avoiding all electrical, and religious use of cable stackers every 2 feet, plus had to cut out some drywall to get past a few double 2x4 fire blocks. Just a few more cables to pull to finish up in the morning, including the runs to the access points and demarks.




2 Ethernet, 4x Telephone (1/2, 3/4 jacks), 1 coax and one spare Cat6 at each location.




Finished the office before quitting time due to heat.




Opening walls to get through blocks. If the roof slope was taller, I could have instead used a cable bit from above.




The wiring closet, so far.




A little closer.

Thanks for the insights, guys.


Hank
Searching for a new Frontier
Premium
join:2002-05-21
Burlington, WV
kudos:2
Reviews:
·Frontier Communi..

OK, a little more clear what you are actually doing. Here is a patch panel that will fit your application:

»www.l-com.com/item.aspx?id=853

When you decide who your TV provider is going to be ask them about a splitter or splitter/amp combination that will fit your requirements.

If the provider supplies the splitter/amp just purchase a shelve to place those items on and use the panel above to make the patch changes easier.


Thadius856

join:2006-06-15
Wheatland, CA
Reviews:
·SONIC.NET

Pretty nice looking product. If it absolutely had to be 16-port for me to be satisfied, I'd go for it. But $97.10 after tax and shipping makes it a little hard to swallow.

Borrowing on that idea, it looks like I can piece together a 24-port version using Monoprice parts for $15.43, plus tax and $8 shipping.

1x Keystone Jack Panel, 24 ports (#7260) $7.03 ea
24x Keystone Jack - Modular F Type, Black (#6544) $0.35 ea.

Now to just convince myself (and my OCD) that it doesn't *need* to be a 16-port version. :\

Thanks a ton!