Another thought: The "3" could be an offset of the dial position, such that the numbers listed should be at the "3 o'clock" position, making the combination
15 - 25 = -10 (90 on the dial) 16 - 25 = -9 (89 on the dial) 89 - 25 = 64 on the dial 38 - 25 = 13 on the dial
When it acts up, I turn the dial six or seven turns left, then the same right, then enter the combination. After the last digit, there's a star that you go to, then jiggle the dial until it "falls in" then spin it fast left until it stops. Then you can open it. Might be something similar with this one after the last digit.
I have tried all the new combinations and nothing yet. I do have to say that dogma 's post with the upside down numbers is quite ingenious. I have tried them multiple ways though and so far nothing.
I tried: 85-68-91 (I tried this one 4 times) 83-68-91 91-68-83 91-68-85 68-91-51 68-91-13
Stop for a moment. The next step is to confirm / verify the lock on the safe. Verify the combination method such as how many turns each way. Does the combination require 3 or 4 numbers ? Once these are determined the next step is to try each suggested combination using the confirmed method at least 2 times each (maybe 3 or 4 due to the age of the safe). If it requires 3 numbers this would rule out 4 number combinations. Likewise if it requires 4 numbers this would rule out 3 number combinations. Then go from there.
The lock is definitely only a 3 disc lock and not a 4 disc lock. After you enter the 3rd number you reverse direction and the safe will stop at a 4th number and will not advance past that. So someone might have written it down as having 4 numbers, but you don't have to worry what the fourth number is as it's basically automatic. So every time I try I enter the 3rd number and reverse direction, if I have entered the first 3 correctly the dial will stop by itself. If the dial keeps spinning then I know the first 3 numbers are not correct.
I saw this in a movie. DO NOT OPEN THAT SAFE. Horrible things will happen. One of the indicators of this is an obsession with opening the safe. The safe is actually a door into HELL, and was sealed by a desperate act by a crazed doctor/witchy woman/former mental patient(pick one)who died during the final locking of the safe. YOU HAVE BEEN WARNED!
Of course, that was only a movie, and I'm not actually considered by my "friends" as socially well-adjusted and stable, so you're on your own. Just don't come crawling back in here whining about all the help you recieved when you create this obvious apocalyptic episode. After all, I appear to be the only person here warning you off on this.
Go watch a few episodes of "Storage Wars" until you find one where they show you how to open a safe with a wood wedge and a sludge hammer. Pull the safe out of the wall and move it outside then proceed to have fun busting it open for 10 minutes.
If it was cheap or easy to pick locks the pros would call a locksmith in to open the safes but they don't. They bust them open with brute force.
I have plenty of tools that I could use to force my way in to the safe in a short time, but I don't want to damage the safe as they are worth a bit of money being so old. This company only existed from 1916-1923. Besides if I destroy it opening it and then find it's empty I am left with nothing.
I have plenty of tools that I could use to force my way in to the safe in a short time, but I don't want to damage the safe as they are worth a bit of money being so old. This company only existed from 1916-1923. Besides if I destroy it opening it and then find it's empty I am left with nothing.
have you tried putting turning pressure on the handle when turning the dial? you might find the dial stopping at those points where a combination number is. master combination locks were like that until recently, when they put a cog on the dial to stop that type of lockpicking.
The lock is definitely only a 3 disc lock and not a 4 disc lock. After you enter the 3rd number you reverse direction and the safe will stop at a 4th number and will not advance past that.
So you followed the procedure as shown in the video? If you did and it didn't open then consider hiring a pro that can open it without damage or drilling.
have you tried putting turning pressure on the handle when turning the dial? you might find the dial stopping at those points where a combination number is. master combination locks were like that until recently, when they put a cog on the dial to stop that type of lockpicking.
I have tried that and the first and second wheels don't drag at all, but the third wheel does drag hard around about half it's numbers. In fact I can crank the handle hard enough to stop the dial from spinning, when I'm on the right half that drags. However I still can't find a gate. Either I'm just not feeling it, or it's on the side that doesn't drag.
I have worked on trying to manipulate the lock as shown and I can't find the contact points. The lock has so much noise and gets stuck every 5-10 numbers it's hard to discern where the real contact points are.
So you followed the procedure as shown in the video?
Yes that is exactly how I have been trying to open it and I verified that is the correct way for this lock (4L -3R - 2L - 1R). I'm not ready to throw in the towel just yet and hire someone. There have been some really good ideas so far and I'm thinking about going back and trying some of the ones that make the most sense about 5 times each.
From what I have seen $300 up to $1,000 is very possible if you don't know the safes history.
After some more thought, I suggest leaving it un-opened.
Do a little more research, find when it was manufactured and sold, and if possible, sold to whom. Develop an intriguing history and back-story on it. The person or persons that originally purchased this safe obviously had something valuable they wanted to protect. Especially a safe of this size. If you can identify a previous owner, hopefully someone with ...shall we say......a checkered past...the entire story may add more value.
Odds are overwhelming there nothing inside but stale air. If you are successful in opening it, and nothings inside, I feel the value may be less.
However, I think you can auction it for even more than you think. I found this eBay auction for what looks to be a very similar safe and back story. The asking is $7,500.00, and there has been one offer already.
So the real treasure for you may be the un-opened safe itself, and let the new buyer consume himself with visions of riches.
edit: BTW, found this info: J. BAUM SAFE & LOCK CO. CINCINNATI, OHIO
Nine Patents are listed that rum from February 27, 1906 to November 19, 1908. There should also be a serial marking engraved behind this panel.
J. Baum Safe & Lock Co. was organized May 26th, 1916 to succeed the Baum Safe Co., which was established in 1893 to succeed the Warth- Baum safe company, which started around 1870.
Walter Jacob Baum was born September 30, 1887. Information regarding his family is available. There are records that he was enumerated in the Colorado State Hospital, which appears to have been an insane asylum, but the name was changed to the State Hospital in 1917. Further information indicates in 1930 he was in WY/Sheridan insane asylum.
J. Baum Safe & Lock Co. went out of business around 1927, which would make sense if he was hospitalized in 1920. This would make the manufacture date of the safe between 1916 - 1927.
And for fun, If you can describe it something like: "From research, this safe was originally purchased in 1930 during the Great Depression by one Louie "the rat" Moran and one Israel Icepick Willie Alderman. The safe apparently disappeared for 50 years after the owners "untimely demise" when it was discovered in a house belonging to "the rats" Mudda'. From all indications, the safe has not been forcibly opened.
If you sell it on eBay for $7500 and the new owner happens to find something like the Hope Diamond in it, you'll be kicking yourself all the way to the grave.