 QuaffAPintA Big Thanks To The Troops
join:2001-01-10
Downingtown, PA
 ·Verizon FiOS
| Insulating Behind Studs
basement wall |
In hindsight I would have done foam board prior to studding. Now, our plan was to just go through the pain of cutting the board in smaller pieces and lifting it over the cables behind the studs, slide them all together and tape em.
But, we also have that annoying pipe, so we would have to measure around that. And do we need to Great Stuff all around that pipe right against the exterior wall?
There's also the spray foam option, I guess, but I don't know how much that would cost, and we still have that pipe to contend with.
Looking for suggestions and thanks for sharing any!
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AsherN
join:2010-08-23
Thornhill, ON | Fiberglass? |
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 ropeguruPremium
join:2001-01-25
Mechanicsville, VA | reply to QuaffAPint
Roxul insulation
»www.roxul.com/home |
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 rfharThe World Sport, Played In Every CountryPremium
join:2001-03-26
Buicktown,Mi | reply to QuaffAPint
I used fiberglass but my studs are one inch away from the cement walls. |
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QuaffAPintA Big Thanks To The Troops
join:2001-01-10
Downingtown, PA Reviews:
·Verizon FiOS
| reply to QuaffAPint
I've got like 2.5 - 3.5 in of clearance from wall to stud. I was thinking roxul as well, but they still say you need something against the cement first (some roxul board).
I guess the question is what goes against the cement wall in this scenario. Since I can't just place roxul or fiberglass right against it.
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ropeguruPremium
join:2001-01-25
Mechanicsville, VA | What about just going with a spray on insulation. That will adhere to the wall, close up the gap and provide insulation.
Edit to add:
Read here »DIY Spray Foam Kit Review |
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 GooberPremium
join:2000-12-17
Naperville, IL
kudos:5 | Best suggestion. The air also feels better on the skin in the basement when it's spray foamed. |
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 alkizmo
join:2007-06-25
Pierrefonds, QC
kudos:1 | reply to ropeguru
Guys, he already has a gap between the studs and concrete walls.
OP, I don't see a gasket seal under your sole plate. Is it pressure treated wood for the sole plate?
Seconded.
It has a higher R value per inch of thickness than fiberglass
If it gets wet, it won't lose its textile strenght, meaning it just needs to dry and it's good to go.
It cannot burn.
If he has a 2" gap between the concrete wall and the studs, he can even use roxul batts for 2x6 studs (R22 value).
But I don't know what you'd use to seal the gap behind the studs. The roxul would be in the cavity and can touch the wall, but it won't expand behind the studs.
Maybe he can fill one cavity with roxul, then spray foam behind the two studs from the adjacent cavities, then fill the adjacent cavities with roxul and repeat. That way the spray foam would only expand behind the studs and be molded into place by the roxul batts.
said by QuaffAPint:But, we also have that annoying pipe, so we would have to measure around that. And do we need to Great Stuff all around that pipe right against the exterior wall?
I have had to deal with a central vac pipe as well. What I did is cut out a section of the roxul batts to accomodate the pipe.
It has less R value around the pipe, but there's not much more you can do other than waste cans after cans of great stuff to encase it. |
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alkizmo
join:2007-06-25
Pierrefonds, QC
kudos:1 | said by cowboyro:Same R-value. R15 for 3.5".
My bad
When I started plans on my basement renovation, there was only this stuff in store
»www.homedepot.ca/product/r-12-sp···i/925593
I guess it's a matter of whichever is cheapest for the same R value. |
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 nunyaWho is John Galt?Premium,MVM
join:2000-12-23
O Fallon, MO
kudos:8
 ·Charter
 ·surpasshosting
 ·voip.ms
| reply to QuaffAPint
I know there's going to be hurt feelings, but it needs to be said:
I would fix the wiring before considering any insulation (bundling, improperly supported, improperly secured). Why are the outlets in before the drywall?
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QuaffAPintA Big Thanks To The Troops
join:2001-01-10
Downingtown, PA Reviews:
·Verizon FiOS
| said by nunya:I know there's going to be hurt feelings, but it needs to be said:
I would fix the wiring before considering any insulation (bundling, improperly supported, improperly secured). Why are the outlets in before the drywall?
If you mean the wiring on the top. It is original to the house and has passed code. There is a couple network cables zip tied by the verizon guy, which is what looks loose.
As far as the outlets, I want them wired up to test all the electrical prior to having the drywall in place - now they should be unscrewed, that I agree with.
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| reply to QuaffAPint
Cut 1.5" wide strips of 3.5" fiberglass and put behind studs. Fill the cavities with 5.5" fiberglass. Assuming your wall is a 6".
I'm not sure about the cost/benefit of only insulating 1 wall with spray foam. The cost per sqft would probably be high given just one small wall, but it doesn't hurt getting a quote.
In 4 months of 40F average temperature difference between in-out, the savings are only about $15 if you burn oil for heating. Kinda "meh". |
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QuaffAPintA Big Thanks To The Troops
join:2001-01-10
Downingtown, PA Reviews:
·Verizon FiOS
| said by cowboyro:Cut 1.5" wide strips of 3.5" fiberglass and put behind studs. Fill the cavities with 5.5" fiberglass. Assuming your wall is a 6". Can you put fiberglass right up against an exterior cement wall?
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| said by QuaffAPint:said by cowboyro:Cut 1.5" wide strips of 3.5" fiberglass and put behind studs. Fill the cavities with 5.5" fiberglass. Assuming your wall is a 6". Can you put fiberglass right up against an exterior cement wall? I'd put a vapor barrier anyway... |
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alkizmo
join:2007-06-25
Pierrefonds, QC
kudos:1
1 edit | reply to QuaffAPint
said by QuaffAPint:Can you put fiberglass right up against an exterior cement wall?
I would venture to say no
What I "would" do it cut up a foam board to fit in a stud cavity.
Place that cut board in "left" cavity, come in from the "right" cavity with Great Stuff to foam up the space behind the "left" stud, then place another cut up foam board in the "right" cavity, and continue moving that way.
Don't you regret simply not putting foam boards at the start?  |
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QuaffAPintA Big Thanks To The Troops
join:2001-01-10
Downingtown, PA Reviews:
·Verizon FiOS
| said by alkizmo:said by QuaffAPint:Can you put fiberglass right up against an exterior cement wall?
I would venture to say no That's what I thought too - which is why I thought I would have to do the foam board first.
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 Jack_in_VAPremium
join:2007-11-26
Mathews, VA
kudos:1 | reply to cowboyro
said by cowboyro:said by QuaffAPint:said by cowboyro:Cut 1.5" wide strips of 3.5" fiberglass and put behind studs. Fill the cavities with 5.5" fiberglass. Assuming your wall is a 6". Can you put fiberglass right up against an exterior cement wall? I'd put a vapor barrier anyway... Out of curiosity I searched the web and here is what I found at an EPA site. Google is an excellent source for reference
»www.epa.gov/indoorairplus/techni···_12.html
“An appropriate assembly for the inside of a basement wall consists of 1 in. of plastic foam board or closed-cell polyurethane spray foam followed by a stud wall with fiberglass insulation filling the cavities. This assembly is covered with moisture- and mold-resistant gypsum board covered by two coats of latex paint. The foam board serves two purposes: providing a capillary break between the foundation wall and the stud wall and keeping warm, humid basement air away from the earth-chilled foundation. It is good practice to put 1 in. of foam board beneath the sole plate of the stud wall and the basement floor and to leave a ½-in. gap between the basement floor and the bottom of the gypsum board. Doing so provides protection from minor floods and damp concrete floors.” |
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alkizmo
join:2007-06-25
Pierrefonds, QC
kudos:1 | makes sense.
That's what I was recommended to do for my basement. I put 1" rigid foam against the concrete, tuck taped between boards, spray foamed large gaps (like behind ducting). I find 1" under the sole plate to be a bit extreme, especially if you have double sole plate, that would require something like 5" tapcons (if those even exist). I used a sill gasket roll, which is made for protecting the sole plate from the concrete slab.
It isn't too late for OP to do damage control with my tedious suggestion (cutting boards, spray foaming etc).
edit - Maybe he can remove a few studs in order to fit in full size boards and slide them behind the rest of the frame. |
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Tig
join:2006-06-29
Carrying Place, ON Reviews:
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 ·TekSavvy DSL
1 edit | reply to QuaffAPint
Here, building code requires some sort of vapor barrier on on the portion of the wall below grade to protest the insulation, Even though the outside of the foundation is also sealed below grade (tar)
Bitumous paper is used inside. (tar paper).
I used R14 roxul on my sub grade walls. |
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