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M A R S
Premium
join:2001-06-15
Long Island
kudos:1

[Help] Ugh.. Aftermarket door unlock

I have this situation. I'm tying to hook up this aftermarket remote start with door unlock.

OK, i have the remote start working fine. But the door locks are making me NUTS

Its a 95 Jeep Grand Cherokee that has positive door locks. The system i installed has a solid negative that gets interrupted when the buttons on the key-fob are pressed.

I have wired a relay as per the instructions but this is making me nuts. I then tired every way i can think of to wire the relay and its no dice.

I used a volt meter and i know for a fact the alarm brain works. The negative is cut off for a fraction of a second when i hit the buttons.

I know the locks work, the wires work and i can activate the system manually. I can jump wires on and off and doors lock/unlock. I have taped in to the correct wires for the locks.

But no matter what i do i cant get the remote to trip the locks in the jeep, even tho i know it cuts the ground as per doing this with the voltmeter hooked up.

How do i make it so a cutting the ground to a relay connects a positive lead to bring power to the door locks?

Im sorry if i sound nuts.. i became so fucking frustrated i had to just slam some tall boys. And im getting ready for bed and this it making me nuts!

This is a PDF of the system:

»www.ultrastarters.com/manuals/U-···7.22.pdf

My ride is 1995 Jeep Grand Cherokee with a positive lock system



shdesigns
Powered By Infinite Improbabilty Drive
Premium
join:2000-12-01
Stone Mountain, GA

Would think it is two DPDT relays. NC set to existing lead from existing switches, C to solenoids, NO to +12V.

That is how I did my mustang.



M A R S
Premium
join:2001-06-15
Long Island
kudos:1

Click for full size
Thats something like what i tired, along with this:


mattmag
Premium,ExMod 2000-03
join:2000-04-09
NW Illinois
kudos:3

1 recommendation

reply to M A R S



I know this isn't totally helpful, but in my decades of experience in the automotive repair industry, I can say with certainty that any kind of aftermarket/add-on alarm and/or door-lock system will be nothing but a nightmare to install, and not work correctly for long, if it ever works at all.

That's just the cold reality of the situation you are getting into.



MooJohn

join:2005-12-18
Milledgeville, GA
kudos:1
Reviews:
·Windstream
reply to M A R S

The starter unit shouldn't send a constant ground on the lock / unlock wires. It should be pulsed just long enough to activate the appropriate relay.

If they were working properly, the first relay diagram on this page would be what you're looking for:

»www.the12volt.com/doorlocks/page3.asp

That will convert a negative pulse into a positive pulse to activate your factory lock relays.
--
John M - Cranky network guy



M A R S
Premium
join:2001-06-15
Long Island
kudos:1

i have don that too, i think the unit is borked



cowboyro
Premium
join:2000-10-11
Shelton, CT
reply to M A R S

Make sure that an appropriate pulse length is selected. It's possible that the pulse is too short for the doors to lock/unlock.
Looking at the manual it seems you have options for 0.25, 0.72 and 3 sec.



M A R S
Premium
join:2001-06-15
Long Island
kudos:1

i was thinking that too but getting in to the menu system with the programing instructions is horrendous.


It's honestly pretty dang simple to do.

Google up "flip flop" relay wiring.

I've always had to tweak the wiring for every one I've installed....no two cars are wired the same.
I've always had to use 4 relays too.....can't even invision 2 relays ever working (you have to flop the ground as well as the positive).
1 relay pos up
1 relay pos down
1 relay neg up
1 relay neg down



MooJohn

join:2005-12-18
Milledgeville, GA
kudos:1
Reviews:
·Windstream

The page I linked to has every possible relay combination you could need for door locks. And yes, you can flip positive and negative in both directions with just two relays. They must have the center pin (87a) present and many relays from the parts store today don't have it.

OP -- I think your unit is messed up. If it isn't pulsing the lock/unlock outputs but rather it is ground all the time, something is wrong.
--
John M - Cranky network guy



M A R S
Premium
join:2001-06-15
Long Island
kudos:1

2 edits

I think its a bust.

What i did was hooked the volt meter up + to + then the - to the lock or unlock lead on the unit and i read 12v give or take, then when i click the keyfob the volt meter shoots down to zero for a fraction of a second. So it seems to cut the negative?

This is nuts. I must have been over this wiring 25 times and tried every way i could think of.

said by cowboyro:

Make sure that an appropriate pulse length is selected. It's possible that the pulse is too short for the doors to lock/unlock.
Looking at the manual it seems you have options for 0.25, 0.72 and 3 sec.

Tired them all tonight, no dice