Aren't 2 strokes supposed to have fuel/oil mixture? So oil in the carb is normal.
I hate two strokes. Pain in the ass to start and you can't use the fuel you mixed for it on other engines.
Does it run longer on half choke? Does it die sooner if you don't press on he gas? Then the fuel is old and carb is gummed up. I revived my weed trimmer two stroke by draining all the fuel out, soaking the carb with aerosol seafoam, forcing it to eat that seafoam, and starting from fresh fuel again.
Fresh gas won't ungum the carb. Old fuel will still bring problems even if it didn't sit in the carb.
Pour some seafoam in the tank (empty the tank first), then try to pump some of it through the fuel line and into the carb, pull the string a couple of times to really get that stuff everywhere. Let it sit for a while (An hour maybe?). After that drain it all out and put the gas/oil back in.
Your symptoms are identical to my weed trimmer when it was gummed up.
Tons of smoke Dies after 10-30 seconds only if I hold down the gas lever on full. Dies in 2-3 seconds if I don't hold down the gas lever (basically 2-3 seconds if idling). Lasts a little bit longer if on half-choke (and then 50 times more smoke).
I admit though that I first tried running the weed trimmer with seafoam added to the fuel and ran it on half-choke for maybe 30 minutes (Basically a full session of weed trimming). It didn't help with the no-choke so that's when I started fresh with a dry carb + seafoam spray.
I never keep fuel in the tank, the longest time I did was 3 weeks over the early summer and never again, I assume it was smoky because it was sitting, as it was starting to heat up in it's 1-3 min when it was running cycles hardly any smoke was made.
I don't have carb cleaner but I do have seafoam and brake cleaner..
I was going to buy Sta-Bil but was unsure how it would react to a fuel mix like that.
The engine is a generator. -- It's NOT Ni-kon It's NE-KON!
Take the plug out and inspect it. If it's lightly darkened with carbon black, clean it with sandpaper. If it's worn, replace it with new.
Take the float bowl apart. Be careful you don't lose any parts. Take the float assembly off and you will see the needle valve. Remove it (again, don't lose anything). Spray the needle valve and all the float surfaces with carburetor cleaner. Remove all traces of varnish. Put the needle valve back in and the float. But the bowl back in place and tighten snugly, but not too tight.
Spray out the carburetor and work the throttle plate to get any gunk out.
Start the engine. It may be flooded from carb cleaner. Hold open the throttle until it starts. There should be a float level adjustment screw on the bowl. Turn it clockwise until the engine starts to stall (or stalls). This is where it is starving for gas. Then turn it back out 1 turn.
Now do a lean drop on the carburetor. Start the engine and turn the idle mixture screw counterclockwise until it starts to stall. Now turn it back clockwise until the idle just smooths out.
After doing all of this, you may have to adjust the idle speed. There should be a stop screw on the throttle linkage. This sets your minimum idle speed. Turn it clockwise to increase the speed and counterclockwise to lower it.
Who is using snake oil? The only thing I had to buy was a new fuel hose because when I took the clamps off the line cracked $1.50
and the generator runs fine now, I soaked the whole carb in seafoam minus the fuel float and the needle for maybe 10 min and blew out all parts including the jets with the air compressor.. after getting the hose and putting it back together it runs like a champ, only thing is I forgot to use 89 octane and I used 87 but it seems to be fine.
pictures since I know you love them.. hard to say what caused it..
Good onya for the DIY carb clean. I like your style. Beats paying someone $100 to do the same.
As you may well know, those brass screws with the little bitty holes in them are jets. They are what regulate the amount of fuel that later up the pathway mixes with the intake air to allow correct combustion. It doesn't take much kack to block a jet. The hole size is (generally speaking) an ultra precise opening designed to allow just the correct amount of fuel to pass. It appears you may have one for idle, and another for operating RPMs. Not sure.
From the yawn department - when tuning a carburetor equipped motorcycle, if we increase air to the motor via a low restriction air filter and / or drilling the air box, and adding less restrictive exhaust piping, we usually introduce larger than factory fuel jets to compliment the increased air flow. Increased horsepower is often the result when stringent very lean for world emissions specs are the factory standard. A dyno run is good to prevent over fueling, although some seem to enjoy that over fueling condition and the increased horsepower it can offer. I got lucky with my bike and ended up with a perfectly flat torque curve along the full RPM range, and perfect fuel to air. Not bragging, for I used a calc app a buddy wrote. Kudos go to him.
On portable two strokes used in multiple operating positions, I often find the fuel line kinked and offering a no / low fuel condition. An example is a plastic fuel tank on a Stihl leaf blower with the fuel filter attached to a length of fuel line inside the fuel tank. I frequently need to turn the blower upside down when blowing out rain gutters with a long outlet pipe. Every now & then the fuel line will get a kink in it while doing this. A quick shake in the fuel line down hill position usually cures the problem.
Any fuel I put in my equipment I always add a stabilizer --- and ensure I run them out of gas if they'll be stored for more than a few weeks. This will prevent the 'gum' from ever building up in the first place.