dslreports logo
site
 
    All Forums Hot Topics Gallery
spc

spacer




how-to block ads


Search Topic:
uniqs
5897
share rss forum feed


Subaru
1-3-2-4
Premium
join:2001-05-31
Greenwich, CT
kudos:1

Interlock Murray panel

I wonder how hard it is to wire in a outdoor generator plug input? I ran an outlet from the panel so I can't see it being that much harder.. Having said that what is the most preferred way a interlock or transfer panel?

This last storm I could only keep a few things running with my 800W rated 900W max generator, enough to power a full size fridge and 2 lamps a 20" LCD tv, Fios unit and settop box, laptop and router.

But stuff like heat I can't do because it's hard wired, so this had me thinking as since winter is coming too and it would be good to keep on hand and I would be using it more then just power outages.

Since the location where I will be doing this is a family member that is up in age her heat is hot water and she uses gas.. Anyways her total usage is pretty low.. the two highest things I can think of right now is her 1200W microwave and her fridge which is maybe 500-700W running the rest is CFL bulbs I think 3000W enough for here, no?

But yeah she has a 100 A Murray panel and was wondering which would be the best way
--
It's NOT Ni-kon It's NE-KON!




LG is NOT Lifes Good It's Lucky Goldstar!



UHF
All static, all day, Forever
Premium,MVM
join:2002-05-24

1 recommendation

If you use an interlock, how do you know when the power has come back on? Seriously.

I have a small 4 circuit transfer switch that I use for my Honda 2kw generator.



Subaru
1-3-2-4
Premium
join:2001-05-31
Greenwich, CT
kudos:1

No joke I was just sitting here searching interlocks and I had that very same thought about how would you know.


garys_2k
Premium
join:2004-05-07
Farmington, MI
Reviews:
·Callcentric
·callwithus
reply to Subaru

Adding an inlet is a lot like a two pole outlet. You'll want to locate near where the generator will run, of course, and add an additional ground conductor split-bolted to your house ground to connect to your generator's frame ground terminal. Also, ideally, the generator won't have an internal neutral-ground bond.

Adding the interlock will take some drilling on the panel face, not a big deal, and yes, the 3 KW generator sounds like it will be fine. Any other motors besides the fridge? Sump pump, well, septic dosing?



UHF
All static, all day, Forever
Premium,MVM
join:2002-05-24
Reviews:
·Mediacom
·Callcentric
·Dish Network
·DIRECTV

1 recommendation

reply to Subaru

I'm using a transfer switch that is nearly identical to this unit:
»www.reliancecontrols.com/Product···x?15114A

I found one new in box on ebay for like $30.



Subaru
1-3-2-4
Premium
join:2001-05-31
Greenwich, CT
kudos:1
reply to garys_2k

Nope really basic house it's from the early 1920's she has city water the only pump she needs to worry about is the tiny pump on her boiler.


garys_2k
Premium
join:2004-05-07
Farmington, MI

Then 3KW ought to be fine.



Subaru
1-3-2-4
Premium
join:2001-05-31
Greenwich, CT
kudos:1

yeah I think so too she only uses CFL's in the house and the two largest loads would be the fridge and microwave, I did not check the furnace pump but it's really tiny I'd be shocked if it was more then 1/2 HP.



Subaru
1-3-2-4
Premium
join:2001-05-31
Greenwich, CT
kudos:1
reply to UHF

I thought the inlet box had to be located on the outside of the house?



UHF
All static, all day, Forever
Premium,MVM
join:2002-05-24
Reviews:
·Mediacom
·Callcentric
·Dish Network
·DIRECTV

I basically installed a "permanent extension cord", lol. There's an outside inlet, it's wired to an outlet near the transfer switch. When I need to use it I have a short cord that goes from it's outlet to the inlet on the front of the transfer switch, then I have a 12gauge extension cord from the generator to the inlet (an L5-20P).

It's not ideal, but it works and the price was right for the switch so I live with it. I just keep careful track of where those two cords are. The long one for the generator I used a L5-20R on one end so it can't wander off to be used a general purpose drop cord - hence using the L5-20P for the inlet.



Subaru
1-3-2-4
Premium
join:2001-05-31
Greenwich, CT
kudos:1

oh... the link you gave me I just noticed the male end was not a L5-20P, see the panel is near the basement door like 6-7 inches away I would have to put the inlet box in the front since the side wall is all hard rock.


sk1939
Premium
join:2010-10-23
Mclean, VA
kudos:10
Reviews:
·T-Mobile US
·Verizon FiOS

said by Subaru:

oh... the link you gave me I just noticed the male end was not a L5-20P, see the panel is near the basement door like 6-7 inches away I would have to put the inlet box in the front since the side wall is all hard rock.

Could always pull the line up and over (assuming it's not out of reach at that point).


Subaru
1-3-2-4
Premium
join:2001-05-31
Greenwich, CT
kudos:1

well I'm reading the manual here and they are talking about the hard wire installation now, and by up and over are you talking about the inlet box on the outside? it would be a bit over my head with the height it would just be simple to install the box behind the bushes because it would just be a direct run to the panel, I did that when relocating the power box next to the gas meter to the other side of the house.
--
It's NOT Ni-kon It's NE-KON!




LG is NOT Lifes Good It's Lucky Goldstar!


sk1939
Premium
join:2010-10-23
Mclean, VA
kudos:10
Reviews:
·T-Mobile US
·Verizon FiOS

said by Subaru:

well I'm reading the manual here and they are talking about the hard wire installation now, and by up and over are you talking about the inlet box on the outside? it would be a bit over my head with the height it would just be simple to install the box behind the bushes because it would just be a direct run to the panel, I did that when relocating the power box next to the gas meter to the other side of the house.

Referring to the inlet box, you could go around the stonework if need be (assuming that is the handiest location).


Subaru
1-3-2-4
Premium
join:2001-05-31
Greenwich, CT
kudos:1

It would be best just to have the plug in the front the bushes hide anything, the house had a addition added on in the early 80's or late 70's but the stone is like 7 inches thick stone.

The front is just siding, wood then the insulation then basement.



alkizmo

join:2007-06-25
Pierrefonds, QC
kudos:1

said by Subaru:

the house had a addition added on in the early 80's or late 70's but the stone is like 7 inches thick stone.

I drilled through my house's foundation to pass raceway from inside to outside.

It was hard, but I managed to make a 1" hole to fit the PVC raceway for the quickest route to the best location for a generator.

So think about the long term: Do you want a generator at the front of the house. What would be the complications to place the generator at the back of the house, but plug it to the front.


Subaru
1-3-2-4
Premium
join:2001-05-31
Greenwich, CT
kudos:1
reply to Subaru

Here are pictures I just took it was hard to describe, I don't want it in the front for reasons you can see in the pictures.. front is street level, load it up and gone.



Inlet box where it would be



steps to the basement.



rock part for basement



thickness



Panel



--
It's NOT Ni-kon It's NE-KON!




LG is NOT Lifes Good It's Lucky Goldstar!


sk1939
Premium
join:2010-10-23
Mclean, VA
kudos:10
Reviews:
·T-Mobile US
·Verizon FiOS

That's an old foundation on that house, old mortar for sure.

If you want it in the back there the best option is to go up a level, over through the wall, then drop the PVC down to wall height and use mason screws or construction adhesive to mount the box.



Subaru
1-3-2-4
Premium
join:2001-05-31
Greenwich, CT
kudos:1

said by sk1939:

That's an old foundation on that house, old mortar for sure.

If you want it in the back there the best option is to go up a level, over through the wall, then drop the PVC down to wall height and use mason screws or construction adhesive to mount the box.

The space next to the box I think would support a transfer panel, the thing is when you say up a level I assume you mean from where I posted the foundation picture? I'm 5'9" so the top is about 6" above my head so just think plugging in a generator cord up that high..

On the flipside you would know what the box is for and it would be out of reach.
--
It's NOT Ni-kon It's NE-KON!




LG is NOT Lifes Good It's Lucky Goldstar!



alkizmo

join:2007-06-25
Pierrefonds, QC
kudos:1

said by Subaru:

The space next to the box I think would support a transfer panel, the thing is when you say up a level I assume you mean from where I posted the foundation picture? I'm 5'9" so the top is about 6" above my head so just think plugging in a generator cord up that high..

No, once you go through the wall above the foundation, you come back down through a PVC raceway that's attached to the exterior wall's facade. The inlet would be surface mounted.


Subaru
1-3-2-4
Premium
join:2001-05-31
Greenwich, CT
kudos:1

got it, I was watching the install video for that reliance transfer switch but I'm not sure if it has a knock out at the top of the inlet box?


sk1939
Premium
join:2010-10-23
Mclean, VA
kudos:10
Reviews:
·T-Mobile US
·Verizon FiOS

It depends on what kind of inlet. For the Reliance you would end up forming a "J" shape to reach the inlet (down, over, then up to the inlet), otherwise there are others such as this Bryant:

»www.google.com/shopping/product/···BEPMCMAQ

That just installs into a standard box.



alkizmo

join:2007-06-25
Pierrefonds, QC
kudos:1
reply to Subaru

It doesn't look like it has a top knock out, too bad.

But I don't understand the big deal with the reliance transfer switch.

It's so popular, but costs 250$ and only has 6 circuits.

On the canadian Home Depot website, you can buy a 18 space transfer switch for 200$ and have 50$ to spare for the inlet and wires.

»www.homedepot.ca/product/60-amp-···m/992421

I don't see anything like that on the american home depot website, but I'm sure they exist.



Subaru
1-3-2-4
Premium
join:2001-05-31
Greenwich, CT
kudos:1

the one I'm looking at is like $180


sk1939
Premium
join:2010-10-23
Mclean, VA
kudos:10
Reviews:
·T-Mobile US
·Verizon FiOS

1 recommendation

I would suggest one like this:

»www.homedepot.com/h_d1/N-5yc1v/R···ApBhrY4Y



Subaru
1-3-2-4
Premium
join:2001-05-31
Greenwich, CT
kudos:1

Yeah but that's only one circuit, no?

*edit
Ok does not seem like it but how does this one work? It seems like it's wired after the main?



Subaru
1-3-2-4
Premium
join:2001-05-31
Greenwich, CT
kudos:1
reply to sk1939

said by sk1939:

I would suggest one like this:

»www.homedepot.com/h_d1/N-5yc1v/R···ApBhrY4Y

$99 on Amazon btw.

sk1939
Premium
join:2010-10-23
Mclean, VA
kudos:10
Reviews:
·T-Mobile US
·Verizon FiOS
reply to Subaru

It's a whole-panel switch, it works in place of a main breaker with the same function as an interlock kit. Basically like this:

Meter -> T.Panel -> Main Breaker
Generator ->

You run the 10/3 or 8/3 line from that to your inlet. This transfer panel allows you to use your old panel without a whole lot of modification without the risk of back feeding the utility line. The generator itself has a circuit breaker of either 30A or 50A which would provide the over current protection if need be. Just make sure that the neutral-ground bonding is removed.



Subaru
1-3-2-4
Premium
join:2001-05-31
Greenwich, CT
kudos:1

Got it, It would not be until Dec until I get a higher wattage generator providing we don't get a massive snow storm stores can start building up a fresh supply of generators.



Subaru
1-3-2-4
Premium
join:2001-05-31
Greenwich, CT
kudos:1
reply to Subaru

Click for full size
Inside the panel from a few years back

»Re: wall outlet cover for outdoor GFCI